Fast tires, slow tires... does it really matter?
#51
Macaws Rock!
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I ride for fitness and to enjoy the scenery. Getting through it faster seems somewhat counterproductive to me. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't purposely choose a tire with the aim of slowing me down, but my preferences are very very strongly weighted toward comfort over performance. I ride a fairly heavy SOMA DoubleCross frame with 36 spoke heavy touring wheels and Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x35c tires and am very happy with the setup.
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#52
Senior Member
I have Gatorskins on my road bike. Any time that I would 'lose' in a heavier tire I make up by not sitting on the side of the road fixing a flat. I could also stand to lose 30 lbs but that's another thread.
#54
Senior Member
I know you probably didn't mean this literally, but lets see. Using analyticcycling.com with all defaults except level road and coefficient of rolling resistance of 0.0025 for "fast" tires, and 0.004 for "slow ones (based on Al Morrison's data), the "fast" tire saves about 4 minutes for every hundred miles ridden. That's a little less time than it takes to fix a flat. I don't know how many flats you get, but I'd say one flat every hundred miles is a lot (and that assumes no flats at all for the slow tires). So actually, slow tires cost more time than would be lost to fixing flats.
#56
Senior Member
B) The argument I responded to was entirely based on time costs. Ride quality was not a consideration.
C) How did tire width get into this?
Last edited by asgelle; 12-20-11 at 10:17 AM.
#57
Hills!
Thread Starter
Regarding flats, I have to say that I've had 1 flat in over 10,000 miles on this particular bike. Frankly, I'm amazed at that. Most of its life has been on the GP4000s tires.
I have had tire cuts which necessitated a tire change when I got back.. and a slow leak in a tube also requiring a change when I got back. But that's been it... so far.
I have had tire cuts which necessitated a tire change when I got back.. and a slow leak in a tube also requiring a change when I got back. But that's been it... so far.
#58
I need speed
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I've found them to be just as flat resistant as Gatorskins, meaning that for both, it's mostly a matter of luck/fate/karma. A goathead will go through either one, as will various types of road trash. Keeping inflation up (less things stick to a harder tire), and avoiding all the trash you can, also help.
#59
rebmeM roineS
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Avoiding trash/debris is a good strategy, but I don't understand how higher pressure would prevent punctures.
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#62
Hills!
Thread Starter
For the record, a friend joined me so we ordered 4 of the Michelin ProRace4 tires today. $42.xx ea plus whatever CC conversion charges apply. Fast, slow... whatever. Hope they last about 3000 miles and are durable like the GP4000s. I chose not to wait for any sale prices on the Conti twinpaks as I'll likely need them in the next month or so unless I just quit riding.
https://www.probikekit.com/us/tyres-t...road-tyre.html
https://www.probikekit.com/us/tyres-t...road-tyre.html
#63
Semper Fi
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Speedlever,
Thanks for the link, that is a good buy as your volume goes up, I am going to get 2 of these Pro4 after Christmas from them, so I have a few extras and I am going to be up for tires shortly after the New Year. Wish they offered the side wall in blue like my Pro3 Race. Oh well I will live.
Bill
Thanks for the link, that is a good buy as your volume goes up, I am going to get 2 of these Pro4 after Christmas from them, so I have a few extras and I am going to be up for tires shortly after the New Year. Wish they offered the side wall in blue like my Pro3 Race. Oh well I will live.
Bill
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I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
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I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
#64
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If this is true, then write him off as a dufus and don't listen to him
THere is absolutely NO WAY that a Conti GP4000 is in any meaningful way an inferior tire to any clincher out there. People have their preferences, but to think that their preferred tire is actually better is just ignorant.
There's no harm in trying another high end tire when you need new tires - why not? Variety is the spice of life and how will you know if there's any noticable difference among tires unless you try them? But not because they're actually faster (assuming similar quality/price point).
Because, I do believe that there is a difference - at least in "feel" or "ride" that many cyclists can notice between very cheap tires and very good tires. There may even be a tiny bit of measurable speed difference, but I doubt it. I went from the cheapest Performance house brand tires to some good quality Michelin ProRace tires a couple of years ago and immediately noticed the "feel". I don't delude myself into believing it's helping me keep up with faster riders though.
Last edited by Camilo; 12-21-11 at 01:29 PM.
#65
Hills!
Thread Starter
Camilo, I trust you noted my T-I-C reference to gaining 5 mph with a tire change in the OP. Also note that I branched out and ordered some ProRace 4's too. I expect 6mph gain from them.
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#69
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This brings up another of my challenges to conventional cycling wisdom, the notion that the front tire must be inflated to less than the rear.
Yes, weight distribution is usually 40-60 front-rear, but that's only when you're coasting or maintaining speed (or sitting statically on your bike with the scale under one wheel and a phone book under the other determining your weight distribution!). Under acceleration, it would likely be 30-70 or 20-80, and under hard braking, it could even be 99-1 as the rear tire starts skidding because there's hardly any weight on it; it's all on the front! When you're out of the saddle climbing, weight distribution is probably 60-40, most of the weight on the front tire, as it's easy to spin the rear wheel on some wet surfaces.
I'm beginning to think that both front and rear tires should be aired to the same pressure. This would account for all the extremes.
L.
Yes, weight distribution is usually 40-60 front-rear, but that's only when you're coasting or maintaining speed (or sitting statically on your bike with the scale under one wheel and a phone book under the other determining your weight distribution!). Under acceleration, it would likely be 30-70 or 20-80, and under hard braking, it could even be 99-1 as the rear tire starts skidding because there's hardly any weight on it; it's all on the front! When you're out of the saddle climbing, weight distribution is probably 60-40, most of the weight on the front tire, as it's easy to spin the rear wheel on some wet surfaces.
I'm beginning to think that both front and rear tires should be aired to the same pressure. This would account for all the extremes.
L.
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I certainly can tell a huge difference on my commute bike between my slick road tires (28's) and my Conti Security in 25's. First day I rode to work on the Conti's, I couldn't figure out why I felt like I was riding in molasses. I honestly was concerned that I had something cardio going on - did I need to go see the doc, was my heart giving me trouble? I was 4-5 gears lower and working hard as compared to normal.
Today, I rode in and noticed that when I coasted, I decelerated, not a normal coast to slow, but actually felt like I was braking. Checked, no brake drag, wheels rotate fine, etc, hubs recently checked and greased, etc. Danged tires flat cling to the ground! So it wasn't my ticker, but the tires, and I will certainly be stronger in the spring when the slick tires get to make a comeback on the commute machine.
Now, when I have a dry day and can climb on my road bike with skinny slick tires, I flat feel like I'm flying!
Today, I rode in and noticed that when I coasted, I decelerated, not a normal coast to slow, but actually felt like I was braking. Checked, no brake drag, wheels rotate fine, etc, hubs recently checked and greased, etc. Danged tires flat cling to the ground! So it wasn't my ticker, but the tires, and I will certainly be stronger in the spring when the slick tires get to make a comeback on the commute machine.
Now, when I have a dry day and can climb on my road bike with skinny slick tires, I flat feel like I'm flying!
#71
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I certainly can tell a huge difference on my commute bike between my slick road tires (28's) and my Conti Security in 25's. First day I rode to work on the Conti's, I couldn't figure out why I felt like I was riding in molasses.
...
Now, when I have a dry day and can climb on my road bike with skinny slick tires, I flat feel like I'm flying!
...
Now, when I have a dry day and can climb on my road bike with skinny slick tires, I flat feel like I'm flying!
#72
Hills!
Thread Starter
Regarding tire pressures, here's a formula I picked up here at BF a while back that I use as a guideline.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...22#post6571222
For me at 170 lbs on 23s, that works out to 110 psi in the rear and 99 (call in 100) psi in the front. Lately, I've been running 115 psi all around and think I will back it down to those numbers and see if I can tell a difference.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...22#post6571222
For me at 170 lbs on 23s, that works out to 110 psi in the rear and 99 (call in 100) psi in the front. Lately, I've been running 115 psi all around and think I will back it down to those numbers and see if I can tell a difference.
#73
just keep riding
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Regarding tire pressures, here's a formula I picked up here at BF a while back that I use as a guideline.
For me at 170 lbs on 23s, that works out to 110 psi in the rear and 99 (call in 100) psi in the front. Lately, I've been running 115 psi all around and think I will back it down to those numbers and see if I can tell a difference.
For me at 170 lbs on 23s, that works out to 110 psi in the rear and 99 (call in 100) psi in the front. Lately, I've been running 115 psi all around and think I will back it down to those numbers and see if I can tell a difference.
#74
Hills!
Thread Starter
"The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt."
Heh! This is so true! And is one of my motivators to keep riding whenever I'm looking for an excuse not to.
Heh! This is so true! And is one of my motivators to keep riding whenever I'm looking for an excuse not to.
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So why aren't you using slick tires with less rolling resistance? As long as you're on pavement, slick tires should provide you with better traction in either dry or wet conditions. The Conti Security tires are designed for environments with lots of sharp road debris that would puncture tires with a thinner, more supple construction. So I'd expect them to have more rolling resistance. Are you riding through areas with lots of nails, staples, and other industrial debris?