Road Bike Gearing for a Geezer
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Phillipston, Massachusetts
Posts: 82
Bikes: Trek 2.1, Trek 930, Fugi Sagres c.1980
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Road Bike Gearing for a Geezer
Hi Folks,
A bit of a novice to this sort of thing, so I thought I'd put this out. I've put down a deposit on a Trek 2.1 which has this gearing - 50/34 crank : 11/32 cassette. I live in Central Massachusetts which, while not the Alps, is a pretty hilly place. I'm 61 years old and in fairly decent shape but admittedly not getting any younger.
I know you can't judge my fitness or locale but do you think this set up is reasonable for an older rider in hilly conditions?
A bit of a novice to this sort of thing, so I thought I'd put this out. I've put down a deposit on a Trek 2.1 which has this gearing - 50/34 crank : 11/32 cassette. I live in Central Massachusetts which, while not the Alps, is a pretty hilly place. I'm 61 years old and in fairly decent shape but admittedly not getting any younger.
I know you can't judge my fitness or locale but do you think this set up is reasonable for an older rider in hilly conditions?
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Phillipston, Massachusetts
Posts: 82
Bikes: Trek 2.1, Trek 930, Fugi Sagres c.1980
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#4
Semper Fi
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 12,942
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1172 Post(s)
Liked 358 Times
in
241 Posts
The granny gear ring on the front or crank set would give you a much lower range for the hills, Pete. It is usually pretty small in teeth count, check some mfgr's sites and look at the third ring number for the bicycles with triples.
Bill
Bill
__________________
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Last edited by qcpmsame; 01-17-12 at 07:25 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Lebanon (Liberty Hill), CT
Posts: 8,456
Bikes: CAAD 12, MASI Gran Criterium S, Colnago World Cup CX & Guru steel
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1722 Post(s)
Liked 1,272 Times
in
734 Posts
FWIW, I run a standard crankset with a 14X25 cassette here in northeastern CT. I'm 65 and a bit overweight at 185 lbs. it seems to work fine for me. I live on a ridge so all my rides are off the ridge and back up at the end. I think you just have to find what works for you and be aware that it might change as the season progresses.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montgomery County, Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,489
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
2 Posts
The 34/32 combo will give you 28.7 inches. And the 50/11 will give 122.7 inches (probably much more than you'll ever need.)
If you go to a triple with a 30 tooth inner ring you'll end up with 25.3 inches. So, that's a 3.5 inch difference every time you turn the cranks a full revolution. For many riders that difference is not terribly significant.
All but one of my bikes is now setup with the 34/50 instead of a triple. The exception to this is my commuter/around town bike. It gets used to haul groceries and other things. So, the triple does come in handy when the bike is fully loaded.
What are other riders in your age and fitness bracket riding in your area?
If you'd like to do your own gear calculations try this: https://www.bikeschool.com/tools/gear-calculator
If you go to a triple with a 30 tooth inner ring you'll end up with 25.3 inches. So, that's a 3.5 inch difference every time you turn the cranks a full revolution. For many riders that difference is not terribly significant.
All but one of my bikes is now setup with the 34/50 instead of a triple. The exception to this is my commuter/around town bike. It gets used to haul groceries and other things. So, the triple does come in handy when the bike is fully loaded.
What are other riders in your age and fitness bracket riding in your area?
If you'd like to do your own gear calculations try this: https://www.bikeschool.com/tools/gear-calculator
__________________
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
Last edited by NOS88; 01-17-12 at 07:39 AM.
#7
don't try this at home.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N. KY
Posts: 5,900
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 959 Post(s)
Liked 477 Times
in
334 Posts
I have a 34-29 as my lowest gear. It's good for 15% grades at 3 to 4 mph. I also like it because I can spin up 5% grades at a high cadence. I think you'll be fine with a 34-32 low gear.
The disadvantage of a 11-32 is the wider gaps between gears. It's harder to get the exact cadence you want, you are either spinning a little too fast or too slow.
You won't use the 50-11 high gear very often, maybe on steep downhills. I only have a 50-13 high gear, and can spin up to 33 or 34 mph, then I coast down faster hills.
I think road bike triples usually have 12-25 or 12-27 cogs, so the gears are closer together. But a 30-27 isn't as low as a 34-32.
Using the great Mike Sherman's gear calculator. Each chainring is a different color. The range is for pedaling between 80 and 100 rpm. The Calculator will show updated charts on the fly as you change cadences or select different gears.
34-50 and 11-32 cogs. A wide range of speeds, but big jumps between gears. There's no 14 or 16 cog, and these are used all the time on a 12-27 cog set. (This chart goes 0-40 mph, so the scale is different than the next ones)
30-39-52 and 12-27 cogs. The gears are a lot closer together. The middle chainring is ideal for the typical road bike speeds between 10 and 22 mph.
34-50 and 12-27 cogs. A common non-racing road bike setup. The low gears aren't as low. If you are in the 34 chainring, you need to shift to the big ring around 16-18 mph, a typical road speed, so that's slightly annoying. See the chart at the bottom, the 34 chainring speeds are about 1 mph apart, very good.
The disadvantage of a 11-32 is the wider gaps between gears. It's harder to get the exact cadence you want, you are either spinning a little too fast or too slow.
You won't use the 50-11 high gear very often, maybe on steep downhills. I only have a 50-13 high gear, and can spin up to 33 or 34 mph, then I coast down faster hills.
I think road bike triples usually have 12-25 or 12-27 cogs, so the gears are closer together. But a 30-27 isn't as low as a 34-32.
Using the great Mike Sherman's gear calculator. Each chainring is a different color. The range is for pedaling between 80 and 100 rpm. The Calculator will show updated charts on the fly as you change cadences or select different gears.
34-50 and 11-32 cogs. A wide range of speeds, but big jumps between gears. There's no 14 or 16 cog, and these are used all the time on a 12-27 cog set. (This chart goes 0-40 mph, so the scale is different than the next ones)
30-39-52 and 12-27 cogs. The gears are a lot closer together. The middle chainring is ideal for the typical road bike speeds between 10 and 22 mph.
34-50 and 12-27 cogs. A common non-racing road bike setup. The low gears aren't as low. If you are in the 34 chainring, you need to shift to the big ring around 16-18 mph, a typical road speed, so that's slightly annoying. See the chart at the bottom, the 34 chainring speeds are about 1 mph apart, very good.
Last edited by rm -rf; 01-17-12 at 08:19 AM.
#8
Semper Fi
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 12,942
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1172 Post(s)
Liked 358 Times
in
241 Posts
^^What they said ^^
I will qualify my statement above by putting in that I live an an extremely flat area, rolling gentle hills only. I removed the triple from my R500 and put on a road double with 52-39 rings. The back seven are 12-25 so I have no expertise, as these others do. The granny on my triple was much too low for me, strictly a personal preference.
Bill
I will qualify my statement above by putting in that I live an an extremely flat area, rolling gentle hills only. I removed the triple from my R500 and put on a road double with 52-39 rings. The back seven are 12-25 so I have no expertise, as these others do. The granny on my triple was much too low for me, strictly a personal preference.
Bill
__________________
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Last edited by qcpmsame; 01-17-12 at 08:03 AM.
#9
Banned.
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 20,917
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
I find a triple very nice to have, and fail to see why it is any more trouble that a compact. IOW, why not get a triple, with its extra gearing? I find I need it at times. I don't understand the rationale behind limiting one's options on hills. But then, I am a bit weird, I guess.
(If you think of yourself as a "geezer" at 61, I dread to think what that makes me at 72!!)
(If you think of yourself as a "geezer" at 61, I dread to think what that makes me at 72!!)
Last edited by DnvrFox; 01-17-12 at 08:54 AM.
#10
Have bike, will travel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,392
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 910 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
158 Posts
More gears with tighter gear spacing. The 39t middle chainring is ideal for most cycling, the small chainring is for hard hills, the big chainring is for descending;
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
#11
Century bound
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mesa Arizona
Posts: 2,262
Bikes: Felt AR4 and Cannondale hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
I find a triple very nice to have, and fail to see why it is any more trouble that a compact. IOW, why not get a triple, with its extra gearing? I find I need it at times. I don't understand the rationale behind limiting one's options on hills. But then, I am a bit weird, I guess.
With a double, when you change gears you know it.
The double and compact came about with racing (lighter weight) and of course lots of ridders want to go real fast like Lance-0) Please understand that this is my experience, and will not fit everyone else. Good luck.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montgomery County, Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,489
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
2 Posts
90 to 95% of my riding is done in the same region. I have found that the compact double is more than adequate for this riding. From my perspective there is no reason to carry the extra chain links, longer dérailleur cage, longer crank axle, and extra chain ring if I don't need them. I also find the triple shifts not quite as smooth as with a shorter cage rear dérailleur. When I know I'll be riding somewhere with serious mountains, it take me about 20 minutes to swap out the compact for the triple set up. But as noted, each to his own.
__________________
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
#13
Plays in traffic
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 6,971
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 14 Times
in
9 Posts
I tried a compact (50/34) and found that for me, its real Achilles Heel is that the mid-range is split between the two rings. On my commute I have to shift the front between stoplights, and shift back again at every stoplight.
Due to the wider spacing between the rings on the front, I have to shift 3-4 gears on the back every time I shift the front, instead of 2 on my triples. It's just too much of a PITA for me.
But they work for some people. Just not for me.
Last edited by tsl; 01-17-12 at 09:19 AM.
#14
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
While I am a fan of triple cranks, since you have just bought a bike with compact double and wide range cassette (SRAM Apex I presume?), I would definitely not advise undertaking the considerable expense of changing out your drivetrain to get a triple. SRAM does not make a triple, so you would have to change cranks, shifters and derailleurs to go triple. A 34 front / 32 rear combination is the same low gear as the 30 front / 28 rear lowest gear common for road triples.
There are pluses and minuses of either approach to low gearing. IMHO, it would be silly to make such a drastic change to a new bike. What you have should work very well for you. My advice? Ride and smile.
<edit> I just noticed that you have only made a deposit on the bike, so you could look into the possibility of getting a triple instead. I think either could work well for you. It comes down to a matter of preference.
There are pluses and minuses of either approach to low gearing. IMHO, it would be silly to make such a drastic change to a new bike. What you have should work very well for you. My advice? Ride and smile.
<edit> I just noticed that you have only made a deposit on the bike, so you could look into the possibility of getting a triple instead. I think either could work well for you. It comes down to a matter of preference.
Last edited by BluesDawg; 01-17-12 at 01:31 PM.
#15
Squeaky Wheel
I ride your exact gearing here in the Seattle area - not many flat rides around here - and have never wanted for a triple. I've ridden this gearing on long, extended climbs in the Cascades and Sierras and have always been able to find a comfortable gear for those long uphill grinds. My only complaint is on the flats - with that wide of a cassette on the back you lose the gearing granularity you get with a narrow range cassette. Fair tradeoff in my estimation.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: monroe (sw) wi
Posts: 1,344
Bikes: cannondale 400st, dean el diente, specialized hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
5 Posts
Pete,
Spend a bit of time riding with the current setup, if nothing else it will give you an idea of which direction you may wish to go.
Spend a bit of time riding with the current setup, if nothing else it will give you an idea of which direction you may wish to go.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Nanaimo.B.C. The We't coast of Canada
Posts: 1,287
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I came here expecting to read about who makes a bike called the Geezer and what was so special about it.
#19
Senior Member
GP, Don't worry about the gearing until you've put some miles on the bike, as your cycling savvy increases you'll be able to address any needs that arise, if any. The compact double and wide ratio cassette may turn out to be ideal if you're seldom on a level road.
Brad
Brad
#20
Humvee of bikes =Worksman
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 5,362
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
Since you only have a deposit on the Trek wait until you've looked at a triple before you finish buying the Trek.
I don't think that the 50/34 crank on the Trek is going to make you happy where you live. No, I do not..........
I don't think that the 50/34 crank on the Trek is going to make you happy where you live. No, I do not..........
__________________
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
#21
Banned
YMMV.. do as you will .. But, a 24 t on a triple, turning a 28t on the hub
is lower than 1:1 A 34:32 is higher.
I got a 50/40/30 a Camag race triple 135 bcd, I changed the innermost cog.
ride the IGH bike mostly .. road bike is impractical
no racks, mudguards, dyno-hub.
is lower than 1:1 A 34:32 is higher.
I got a 50/40/30 a Camag race triple 135 bcd, I changed the innermost cog.
ride the IGH bike mostly .. road bike is impractical
no racks, mudguards, dyno-hub.
#23
Watching and waiting.
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Mattoon,Ill
Posts: 2,023
Bikes: Trek 7300 Trek Madone 4.5 Surly Cross Check
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This is why I prefer a triple. With ten extra gears in the same range, I can always find what works for my legs and lungs.
I tried a compact (50/34) and found that for me, its real Achilles Heel is that the mid-range is split between the two rings. On my commute I have to shift the front between stoplights, and shift back again at every stoplight.
Due to the wider spacing between the rings on the front, I have to shift 3-4 gears on the back every time I shift the front, instead of 2 on my triples. It's just too much of a PITA for me.
But they work for some people. Just not for me.
I tried a compact (50/34) and found that for me, its real Achilles Heel is that the mid-range is split between the two rings. On my commute I have to shift the front between stoplights, and shift back again at every stoplight.
Due to the wider spacing between the rings on the front, I have to shift 3-4 gears on the back every time I shift the front, instead of 2 on my triples. It's just too much of a PITA for me.
But they work for some people. Just not for me.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Posts: 5,079
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1557 Post(s)
Liked 1,143 Times
in
583 Posts
FWIW, I switched out my triple front/12-26 rear last year for a SRAM Apex/Rival mix: 50/34 front, 12-32 rear. I'm 60, ride lots, and like climbs; also use the bike daily for commuting (well, not in mid-winter but otherwise!). Works for me.
BTW, I agree with tsl above re. the 'mid-range split' -- it's definitely 'there', but simply doesn't bother me at all.
BTW, I agree with tsl above re. the 'mid-range split' -- it's definitely 'there', but simply doesn't bother me at all.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 438
Bikes: Raleigh Venture 3.0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I live in hilly country and have a 28,38,48 front chain ring and a seven cog rear that goes from a 14 to a 24, then jumps to a 34.
So far, it's working out rather well for me.
So far, it's working out rather well for me.