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Old 08-23-12, 07:35 PM   #1
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Made the same mistake twice.

Last year I was looking at aluminum bikes and made the mistake of riding a carbon bike. So I blew my budget and purchased a Trek Madone 4.6c.

I've been reading about how lighter wheels improve climbing and acceleration, so I tried the wheels on my son's Madone 6.7. The difference was immediately noticeable. So yesterday I went to the local bike shop, where my son worked for 5 summers, and spoke his old boss/owner about wheels. After awhile he asked if I would be interested in a set of carbon wheels. I told him they were out of my budget and he gave me a killer deal. They were the last set he had and since his customers were mostly triathletes they weren't big sellers and he wasn't going to get any more.

Easton EC90SL with Continental GP4000 and 11-28 cassette.

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Rule #25// The bikes on top of your car should be worth more than the car
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Old 08-23-12, 07:43 PM   #2
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Looks like you scored a sweet deal on some killer wheels there. Congrats on the deal.

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Old 08-23-12, 08:03 PM   #3
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So what were these mistakes you were talking about?
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Old 08-23-12, 08:16 PM   #4
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Well, the bike started out at a $1000 budget. Then I rode the same bike with 105 components for $1600 and there was a noticeable improvement. Then i rode a $2800 carbon bike and the handling was night-n-day.

My original Bontrager Race wheels are 2250g. My son's Bontrager RXL's are 1520g. The Easton EC90SL are 1530g.

That's a 1 pound, 10 ounce savings and drops my bike below the 16 pound mark.

I guess I can now eat the bacon cheese burger tomorrow. (only joking, my heart would explode if I did).
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Rule #25// The bikes on top of your car should be worth more than the car

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Old 08-23-12, 09:57 PM   #5
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Well it sounds like your mistakes turn out much better than mine. I had 'don't make the same mistake twice' typed up somewhere, but I haven't managed to live up to that one. Maybe I'll adjust it to 'don't make the same mistake 3 times.'
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Old 08-23-12, 09:59 PM   #6
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Well, the bike started out at a $100 budget. Then I rode the same bike with 105 components for $1600 and there was a noticeable improvement. Then i rode a $2800 carbon bike and the handling was night-n-day.

My original Bontrager Race wheels are 2250g. My son's Bontrager RXL's are 1520g. The Easton EC90SL are 1530g.

That's a 1 pound, 10 ounce savings and drops my bike below the 16 pound mark.

I guess I can now eat the bacon cheese burger tomorrow. (only joking, my heart would explode if I did).
Hardly anything is a mistake if we get enjoyment out of it. I was skeptical about wheels till I got a set of Dura Ace CF wheels about two years ago.

When I first joined this forum someone posted, "go ahead and get a Carbon fiber bike, you are going to want one sooner or later." That turned out to be about as good advice as get lighter wheels was. for me it simply hasn't been a mistake.
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Old 08-24-12, 01:04 AM   #7
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I can fully realise the mistake- Fancy getting an 11/28 cassette--At that weight loss and for the wheels and on that bike-it should have been 11/21 and a 54/42 crankset.
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Old 08-24-12, 04:47 AM   #8
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Here's my question....as someone who rides and likes a Masi Gran Criterium (AL frame w/CF fork and rear with standard crankset and 13X25 cogs)...were you riding an all AL bike and what were the immediate differences you noticed?

RE: CF wheels. Being a motorcyclist I well know the advantages of CF wheels but a little research tells me that my Mavic Aksium wheels weigh 3.77 lbs compared to yours at 3.37 lbs. So I don't know that CF wheels would make a significant difference to me. I also didn't know that CF wheels can present some braking issues. Does anyone know about that?

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Old 08-24-12, 05:04 AM   #9
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Don't let anyone on the 41 pass you. They will post a thread that will run 17 pages about it if they do.
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Old 08-24-12, 09:11 AM   #10
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Rode to Sagamore Hill today.



45 miles and I averaged 16mph. I was noticeably riding faster and was cruising at 20mph at times. Hills were also easier and steep ones were able to be ridden to the top without stopping.

I took a break on the front porch and sat in a rocking chair while having my snack and water. There wasn't another person around and I thought "this is what it was like when TR lived here".

The place is very cool.

Oh... I like the wheels. Braking was only marginally less. Also the freewheels is dead quiet, no clicking.
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Rule #25// The bikes on top of your car should be worth more than the car
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Old 08-24-12, 09:31 AM   #11
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Rode to Sagamore Hill today.

45 miles and I averaged 16mph. I was noticeably riding faster and was cruising at 20mph at times. Hills were also easier and steep ones were able to be ridden to the top without stopping.

Oh... I like the wheels. Braking was only marginally less. Also the freewheels is dead quiet, no clicking.
Isn't it nice when things work the way you hoped they would? Congratulations.
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Old 08-24-12, 10:48 AM   #12
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sure is.....

My son worked at this shop for 5 summers and I know the owner. More than that, i trust him and know he wouldn't sell me something just to make a sale.

Gearing is the same as on my alloy wheels and for me... it's working. Maybe one day i'll change it when i get stronger.
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Rule #25// The bikes on top of your car should be worth more than the car
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Old 08-24-12, 02:38 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by bruce19 View Post
Here's my question....as someone who rides and likes a Masi Gran Criterium (AL frame w/CF fork and rear with standard crankset and 13X25 cogs)...were you riding an all AL bike and what were the immediate differences you noticed?

RE: CF wheels. Being a motorcyclist I well know the advantages of CF wheels but a little research tells me that my Mavic Aksium wheels weigh 3.77 lbs compared to yours at 3.37 lbs. So I don't know that CF wheels would make a significant difference to me. I also didn't know that CF wheels can present some braking issues. Does anyone know about that?
I ride ally frames in preference to C.F. but that may be down to other factors. Boreas is a lightweight Ally race geometry frame with L/W C.F.Forks and has built up into a just over 15lbs bike. Only problem I have with it is that after about 60 miles- I get some back ache due to the bar height that is a fraction too low but for me it works. This was built just as C.F. was taking hold and is a top rate ally frame. I then bought a C.F. Giant TCR-C frame and forks and built it up mainly with 105/Ultegra and initially Mavic Aksium wheels. That frame hurt and was difficult to control. One ultra stiff frame and stiff wheels. Only thing- it flew up hills. You started a hill and it was finished but road buzz used to finish me. Eventually got it sorted and it now has a more compliant set of wheels fitted and it has turned into my hills/long ride bike. Next came the Pinarello FP UNO and this is an ally frame with CF forks and Seat stays. Comfy again and rides well bit heavier but this is a low end bike in the Pinnie Range and only shows itself in the weight.

Nothing wrong with Aluminium Frames----PROVIDING they are a quality unit. Put it this way- The Boreas Frame and forks cost more than the Giant TCR3 complete bike that I was looking at. But if you are thinking that any ally frame is suitable- then think again. Same can be said for C.F.Frames as they can be ultra stiff like the TCR- can be very flexible- or can be a combination of both.

On the wheels-Light weight wheels work in the right conditions and just that little bit of weight loss is beneficial if the weight loss is in the right place. If that weight loss is at the rim- then less rotating weight where it matters (At the extremity) and less weight to drag up hills. But they are usually accompanied with a low spoke count that do take a bit of care when riding and they are expensive.
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Old 08-24-12, 04:26 PM   #14
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Trusting a bike shop before you've done the research is not a good idea. But in this case, you win! When I was looking for carbon wheels, I got a pair of Reynolds Assaults, which were the best choice for the dollar at the time. I've always had brake modulation issues with them, but a lot less then other full carbon wheels being offered at that time (about 3 years ago).

Your Eastons look like they've solved the problem based on Bike Radar's review - http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/catego...clincher-37614

Do you have the Swisstop King Yellow brake pads on them? I can't tell from the picture. If not, that should be an immediate change.

Enjoy!
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Old 08-24-12, 05:08 PM   #15
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Trusting a bike shop before you've done the research is not a good idea.
Enjoy!
Agreed....

When I first thought about carbon wheels, I was looking ay Boyd since they were in my price range and seemed to have good feedback, but my son talked me out of them. When the shop suggested the Eastons, I didn't commit till the next day. That gave me the evening to do some research. I quickly learned that they had great reviews, fit my needs, better made than the other carbon wheels I looked at and with the deal i got, they were in my price range.

Let's just say I got them, an Ultegra 6700 cassette and Continental GP4000 tires for the price of the Boyds alone.

Highlights of the Eastons are they don't need any finish machining when removed from the molds, they hubs have ceramic bearings and the braking surface has a special treatment to improve braking.
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Rule #25// The bikes on top of your car should be worth more than the car

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Old 08-24-12, 05:18 PM   #16
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Well, the bike started out at a $100 budget.
I know, it was a typo!

I walked into a shop last year looking for a run-of-the-mill seatpost and a bottle cage... the cage the guy pulled off his rack was cf, at $100. I declined.

ps. I'm seriously envious. Good job at making the right mistakes.
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Old 08-24-12, 05:33 PM   #17
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I know, it was a typo!
Correct... $1000 budget.

I don't mind spending money when there's a noticeable difference. But I just hate wasting money by not doing the research prior to handing it over.

These wheels are 38mm deep. It would of been a mistake to buy deeper wheels since they are more expensive, heavier and at the speeds I ride there is no "aero" advantage. The 38s fit my needs.

I just didn't want to be "that guy" that has a $12,000 bike and will never ride it to it's fullest.

BTW... I just broke 1500 miles since last November.
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Old 08-26-12, 08:09 AM   #18
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Went for a ride to the beach to see how the wheels handle crosswinds.

26 mile ride with 10 miles exposed to the wind. 5 miles south and 5 miles north with a 10mph ENE wind.

I didn't notice any issues related to the 38mm rims. The bike rode beautifully and i'm very happy with the results.
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Old 08-27-12, 12:29 PM   #19
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Can someone please point out to me the advantage of carbon wheel over aluminum wheel ? weight saving , stiffness , better handling . I just don't understand the average cyclist spend that kind of money for a set of wheel . I heard that you almost have to come to a complete stop as soon as you get a flat tire or the carbon rim is toasted . I am not jealous of anyone who can afford carbon wheels . I just want to know the real reason behind the hype .
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Old 08-27-12, 12:52 PM   #20
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CF wheels let you have an aero shape while maintaining a reasonably light weight, or a truly light weight in a non-aero shape. I have non-aero CF clinchers (Bontrager Race XXX Lite) for training, and they weigh almost the same as my aero CF tubular racing wheels (Zipp 404). Bare, the Bont's are 1320g and the Zipps 1280g. With tubes and tires, the Bont's are 1620g and the Zipps 1548. If you race, you are probably going to race on CF tubulars, and swap out to clinchers for training. CF and alloy require different brake pads, and it risks your CF rims to use pads that have been used on alloy. So having CF clinchers for training saves a lot of fuss and bother. Cheap carbon clinchers can have heat issues with extended braking. Tubulars don't have that issue, and neither do quality clinchers. The Bont's, which I bought used, ride great, especially after I had new spoke nipples installed and at the same time the wheel builder used less spoke tension. But nothing rides like a great tubular. I'd ride them all the time if not for the issue of tubular flats being both a pain and expen$ive.
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