Standard vs. Compact crank set
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53x13......26.5 mph@83 rpm
53x14......27 mph@90 rpm
53x15......27 mph@98 rpm
My take away from this is that I probably don't need the 53x12 and 53x13. Maybe I don't even need the 53x14 for the riding I do. Just wondering if anyone has any insights or opinions about this.
53x14......27 mph@90 rpm
53x15......27 mph@98 rpm
My take away from this is that I probably don't need the 53x12 and 53x13. Maybe I don't even need the 53x14 for the riding I do. Just wondering if anyone has any insights or opinions about this.
First of all, you say this road was close to flat. So the downhill gradient was only very shallow. In which case I am not at all surprised that you found the 53x14 or 15 the most suitable gears. I wouldn't expect to be in my highest gears in those circumstances unless I was flat-out sprinting.
But I don't think that justifies the conclusion that you don't need the 53x12. Or, to be more precise, you may not need it but that doesn't mean it isn't worth having. You'll go down steeper slopes than this, and on those it may be useful. In particular, you mentioned an interest in time-trialling. Were you to pursue that interest, you'd definitely want a gear that would allow you to continue putting a lot of power down when going down a moderate hill.
And really, what is the downside of having the 53x12? Unless you are having trouble with the hills in your 39x25, why would you change? And even if you changed, you could go to a 12-27 or a 12-28. From your account, it isn't clear what problem needs solving, here.
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I'm a masher, I love riding in the 53t ring, I don't like to go to the smaller ring and only use it on real long hills (never the steep ones).
A year ago I bought a bike with a compact double, it's taken me 11 months to get used to the gearing. Some things are so strange like sitting all the way up a hill, coming down a hill and running out of gears way before I want to and keeping my cadence in the high 80s or mid 90s for the whole ride.
Frame and "ride" aside, I have learned to appreciate the compact double. Long hills are a treat and muscle recovery is non existent. Having said that, I still enjoy mashing up a steep hill and the speed I get out of the big double.
A year ago I bought a bike with a compact double, it's taken me 11 months to get used to the gearing. Some things are so strange like sitting all the way up a hill, coming down a hill and running out of gears way before I want to and keeping my cadence in the high 80s or mid 90s for the whole ride.
Frame and "ride" aside, I have learned to appreciate the compact double. Long hills are a treat and muscle recovery is non existent. Having said that, I still enjoy mashing up a steep hill and the speed I get out of the big double.
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Agreed.
Using Sheldon Brown's gear calculator, inputting a 50/34 compact crank, 11-23 cassette, and calculating MPH @ 90 RPM, you'll be in the 50x13 combo at 27.1 MPH.
Assuming Ultegra, you'll spend about $300 to go from 53x14 to 50x13 to produce the same 27 MPH at the same 90 RPM. In each case, you'll still have two cogs to go.
I'm not sure what problem that solves, unless you have too much money. And if that's the case, PM me for my depository information. I'll help you dispose of all that nasty cash.
If you really want to do this, and you're interested in the dark gray (almost black) Ultegra 6750 50/34 175mm crank, I may be willing to part with mine, which after next weekend, will have only about 400 miles total on it.
Using Sheldon Brown's gear calculator, inputting a 50/34 compact crank, 11-23 cassette, and calculating MPH @ 90 RPM, you'll be in the 50x13 combo at 27.1 MPH.
Assuming Ultegra, you'll spend about $300 to go from 53x14 to 50x13 to produce the same 27 MPH at the same 90 RPM. In each case, you'll still have two cogs to go.
I'm not sure what problem that solves, unless you have too much money. And if that's the case, PM me for my depository information. I'll help you dispose of all that nasty cash.
If you really want to do this, and you're interested in the dark gray (almost black) Ultegra 6750 50/34 175mm crank, I may be willing to part with mine, which after next weekend, will have only about 400 miles total on it.
Last edited by tsl; 08-31-12 at 03:23 PM.
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tsl thanks for the offer but my focus is really more on changing out the cogs on the cassette. I can see how my original post is a bit confusing. I was originally being told by fellow riders that I should go to a compact. Then I got the alternative suggestion of just changing the cogs from 12-25 to something like 14-26. I think what got me thinking about all of this was the fact that I don't use the 53x12 or 53x13 very much. I was also curious to see what kind of gearing I could turn at a reasonable rpm now that I'm 66.
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my focus is really more on changing out the cogs on the cassette. < snip > just changing the cogs from 12-25 to something like 14-26. I think what got me thinking about all of this was the fact that I don't use the 53x12 or 53x13 very much. I was also curious to see what kind of gearing I could turn at a reasonable rpm now that I'm 66.
I'm a big fan of multiple cassettes. Two of the first bike tools I bought were a chain whip and cassette lockring tool. My 9 and 10-speed bikes each have a 12-23 and a 12-27. My 8-speed has a 13-23 and 12-28. Once upon a time, I owned a 10-speed Ultegra juniors cassette, 16-27.
In any event, as much as possible, I run the 12-23s because I really like the close ratios at cruising speeds and above. It's part of the reason I've focused on strengthening my climbing, so I that can go on most rides without needing the 27. I'd have give up the 18 to get the 27, and especially in variable headwinds, I like having the 18. I miss it a lot on the 8 and 9-speed bikes. So I've learned to climb using flatlander gearing.
I haven't worried about what I can push in the 53 or 52. I'm in the 39 enough of the time I could probably forego the big ring entirely. I might use it twice in a day for maybe two or three miles total at most. More often, I just don't bother, and back off the power instead. What keeps me in the 12x cassettes instead of switching to a 14x juniors cassette is that I use the 13 a lot, and the 12 a lot more than I should.
I was going to say I have no need of an 11, but then I remembered I also own a 9-speed 11-21. Now there's a flatlander cassette.
Last edited by tsl; 08-31-12 at 07:08 PM.
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One situation where a compact crankset really shines is on rolling routes where flat sections are rare or nonexistent.
If 45% of the route is climbing in the 2 to 15% range and the other 55% of the route is flat or descending, the ability stay on one-chainring-or-the-other is sustainable. The 50t chainring works well on flat sections or sections with sustained descents. The 34t chainring is only usefull when climbing.
When on flat sections and holding a speed in the 19 to 24 mph range, the 34t chainring is inadequate and the 50t is better. However, any short climb of even 3% requires the switch down to the 34t. If the climb is short, the switch back to the 50t comes along soon.
The Compact crankset are the least usefull of all crankset options on flat routes. I'd rather have a single chainring in the 44 to 48 range on a flat route than to use a compact.
If 45% of the route is climbing in the 2 to 15% range and the other 55% of the route is flat or descending, the ability stay on one-chainring-or-the-other is sustainable. The 50t chainring works well on flat sections or sections with sustained descents. The 34t chainring is only usefull when climbing.
When on flat sections and holding a speed in the 19 to 24 mph range, the 34t chainring is inadequate and the 50t is better. However, any short climb of even 3% requires the switch down to the 34t. If the climb is short, the switch back to the 50t comes along soon.
The Compact crankset are the least usefull of all crankset options on flat routes. I'd rather have a single chainring in the 44 to 48 range on a flat route than to use a compact.
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 09-02-12 at 07:12 AM.
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Could someone tell me what defines a "compact" crankset?
My frame specs (Salsa Vaya) say it "Fits any road compact double or triple" and I am running a touring triple 48-36-28 (with a 12-36 9sp cassette). I'm big and carry heavy touring loads so getting up hills and not destroying my knees is the goal, not speed.
My current bb is a square taper shimano but I would like to use an external bearing external crankset if possible. People who claim to know tell me that any crankset -- mtb or road -- *should* work as the chainline difference is minute. I hesitate to put down $200-300 without knowing for sure and can only assume the posted specs are there for a reason. Any insight or edumukation would be gratefully received.
My frame specs (Salsa Vaya) say it "Fits any road compact double or triple" and I am running a touring triple 48-36-28 (with a 12-36 9sp cassette). I'm big and carry heavy touring loads so getting up hills and not destroying my knees is the goal, not speed.
My current bb is a square taper shimano but I would like to use an external bearing external crankset if possible. People who claim to know tell me that any crankset -- mtb or road -- *should* work as the chainline difference is minute. I hesitate to put down $200-300 without knowing for sure and can only assume the posted specs are there for a reason. Any insight or edumukation would be gratefully received.
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"Compact" refers to the number of teeth, not anything having to do with chainline. In other words, the diameter is compact, not the width.
"Standard" cranksets have 53 and 39 tooth chainrings. Old-school standards are 52/42.
"Compact" cranksets have either 50/34 or 50/36 chainrings. These are generally paired with a wider-ratio cassette with an 11-tooth small cog so that the effective top ratio--50x11--is nearly the same as a 53x12.
Cyclocross cranksets are pairing 46/36 or 42/34 rings.
Your current touring triple and MTB cassette have much lower gearing than any of the above can ever hope to provide. There may be external bearing touring triples out there, I'm just not aware of any.
"Standard" cranksets have 53 and 39 tooth chainrings. Old-school standards are 52/42.
"Compact" cranksets have either 50/34 or 50/36 chainrings. These are generally paired with a wider-ratio cassette with an 11-tooth small cog so that the effective top ratio--50x11--is nearly the same as a 53x12.
Cyclocross cranksets are pairing 46/36 or 42/34 rings.
Your current touring triple and MTB cassette have much lower gearing than any of the above can ever hope to provide. There may be external bearing touring triples out there, I'm just not aware of any.
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Could someone tell me what defines a "compact" crankset?
My frame specs (Salsa Vaya) say it "Fits any road compact double or triple" and I am running a touring triple 48-36-28 (with a 12-36 9sp cassette). I'm big and carry heavy touring loads so getting up hills and not destroying my knees is the goal, not speed.
My current bb is a square taper shimano but I would like to use an external bearing external crankset if possible. People who claim to know tell me that any crankset -- mtb or road -- *should* work as the chainline difference is minute. I hesitate to put down $200-300 without knowing for sure and can only assume the posted specs are there for a reason. Any insight or edumukation would be gratefully received.
My frame specs (Salsa Vaya) say it "Fits any road compact double or triple" and I am running a touring triple 48-36-28 (with a 12-36 9sp cassette). I'm big and carry heavy touring loads so getting up hills and not destroying my knees is the goal, not speed.
My current bb is a square taper shimano but I would like to use an external bearing external crankset if possible. People who claim to know tell me that any crankset -- mtb or road -- *should* work as the chainline difference is minute. I hesitate to put down $200-300 without knowing for sure and can only assume the posted specs are there for a reason. Any insight or edumukation would be gratefully received.
click on the thumbnails
Stock, compact crank
Mt. crank
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OK, now I'll muddy the waters a bit. Everybody talks about how low a hill climb gear they need and how fast a top gear they can use. I think that your favorite flat road gear is equally important.
I want my flat road gear to fall near the middle of the cassette. That way I'll have a couple of trim gears in each direction without having to shift front chainrings.
I want my flat road gear to fall near the middle of the cassette. That way I'll have a couple of trim gears in each direction without having to shift front chainrings.
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OK, now I'll muddy the waters a bit. Everybody talks about how low a hill climb gear they need and how fast a top gear they can use. I think that your favorite flat road gear is equally important.
I want my flat road gear to fall near the middle of the cassette. That way I'll have a couple of trim gears in each direction without having to shift front chainrings.
I want my flat road gear to fall near the middle of the cassette. That way I'll have a couple of trim gears in each direction without having to shift front chainrings.
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Choice of crankset is personal and a function of your power/weight ratio. While a compact might not be suitable for you on the flats, for others it is just fine. While I'm using a std at the moment a compact makes it a little easier to stay in the big ring when going into a headwind. If I use a compact I do less shifting on the front.
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53/12 is a bigger gear than Eddy Merckx used to ride on the road. Thirteen was as small as it got, then. He seemed to do OK.
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Choice of crankset is personal and a function of your power/weight ratio. While a compact might not be suitable for you on the flats, for others it is just fine. While I'm using a std at the moment a compact makes it a little easier to stay in the big ring when going into a headwind. If I use a compact I do less shifting on the front.
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
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I'm not a particularly strong rider so switching to a 50/34 compact for me traded a couple of fast gears that I never used for a couple of hill climb gears that I really needed. That's the benefit that I was expecting. The unexpected bonus for me was that it allowed me to do all of my flat road riding in the big chainring. Overall I think that switching my road bike to a compact was the best equipment change that I've ever made.
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You're right, with the same cassette it works out to be about one rear gear. That's fine when you're in the middle. If you're battling a head wind, however, that can put you into the situation where frequent front shifts are necessary.
I'm not a particularly strong rider so switching to a 50/34 compact for me traded a couple of fast gears that I never used for a couple of hill climb gears that I really needed. That's the benefit that I was expecting. The unexpected bonus for me was that it allowed me to do all of my flat road riding in the big chainring. Overall I think that switching my road bike to a compact was the best equipment change that I've ever made.
I'm not a particularly strong rider so switching to a 50/34 compact for me traded a couple of fast gears that I never used for a couple of hill climb gears that I really needed. That's the benefit that I was expecting. The unexpected bonus for me was that it allowed me to do all of my flat road riding in the big chainring. Overall I think that switching my road bike to a compact was the best equipment change that I've ever made.
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"Compact" refers to the number of teeth, not anything having to do with chainline. In other words, the diameter is compact, not the width.
"Standard" cranksets have 53 and 39 tooth chainrings. Old-school standards are 52/42.
"Compact" cranksets have either 50/34 or 50/36 chainrings. These are generally paired with a wider-ratio cassette with an 11-tooth small cog so that the effective top ratio--50x11--is nearly the same as a 53x12.
Cyclocross cranksets are pairing 46/36 or 42/34 rings.
Your current touring triple and MTB cassette have much lower gearing than any of the above can ever hope to provide. There may be external bearing touring triples out there, I'm just not aware of any.
"Standard" cranksets have 53 and 39 tooth chainrings. Old-school standards are 52/42.
"Compact" cranksets have either 50/34 or 50/36 chainrings. These are generally paired with a wider-ratio cassette with an 11-tooth small cog so that the effective top ratio--50x11--is nearly the same as a 53x12.
Cyclocross cranksets are pairing 46/36 or 42/34 rings.
Your current touring triple and MTB cassette have much lower gearing than any of the above can ever hope to provide. There may be external bearing touring triples out there, I'm just not aware of any.
I have a Deore MTB "trekking" triple with Hollowtech II external bearings and 48, 36 & a non-standard 22t. This crankset is sometimes seen on touring models from Jamis and other.
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 09-02-12 at 04:27 PM.
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Er, that's fine, except it doesn't address the point you made in the first place, which is that you like your typical gear to be in the middle of the rear cassette. On a 12-25 cassette, the 16 and 17 sprockets are the middle two sprockets. What you now seem to be saying is that you wanted lower gearing, which is of course what a compact is for.
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i have a compact 50/34 on one bike and a 53/39 on another bike
Really the only difference inmo is that using a compact defiantly helps produce a better spin in any gear that you use.otherwise i find that you loose a lot of top end speed in the long run. it all depends on what you want and how you want to ride
Really the only difference inmo is that using a compact defiantly helps produce a better spin in any gear that you use.otherwise i find that you loose a lot of top end speed in the long run. it all depends on what you want and how you want to ride
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Go back and read what you have posted. I think you'll find that your second argument bears no relation to your first. But hey, the important thing is to save face, right?
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A 50t chainring needs a wider cadence range below 22 mph when the 17-19-21 cogs require more than a 10% change in cadence with each gear change.
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
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I was very happy with a 46 & 38t Cyclocross crankset and a 11-23 ten speed cassette on windy & flat routes. I could keep a tight 92 to 100 rpm cadence from 15 to 33 mph.
A 50t chainring needs a wider cadence range below 22 mph when the 17-19-21 cogs require more than a 10% change in cadence with each gear change.
A 50t chainring needs a wider cadence range below 22 mph when the 17-19-21 cogs require more than a 10% change in cadence with each gear change.
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I would only recommend a Cyclocross crankset as a road crank for pool-table flat routes.
Not too many 50+ cyclist are holding 33 mph without some help from a 3% slope, a 15 mph tail-wind or a nice position in the middle of a large peloton at the TDF.
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 09-02-12 at 05:49 PM.
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I normally ride crits in my 15 or 16 and end up in the 12 or 13 for the sprint. I only have a 12 so using a 46 might be harder to sprint in. Not that it would make much difference to my results