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Thread: cadence

  1. #1
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    cadence

    Since I have been using a cycle computer I know my cadence.My average on flat roads 85.I shift at 80 and 90.Thats my natural cadence.Just wondering what cadence you guys have.

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    I'll let you know as soon as I get my sensor fixed. (translate, new unit)

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    I run about the same. 80-90 on the flats and more on the hills to try and keep momentum. I find anything over 90 for longer than 10-20 minutes just doesn't work for me.

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    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    Flat/rolling roads: 90-105
    Climbing: 85
    Trying to overtake someone: up to 120

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    Senior Member oldnslow2's Avatar
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    80-90 on the flats.

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    Senior Member BlazingPedals's Avatar
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    I'm about the same, too. 85 on the flats, 90 if I'm working harder than normal. Lower on hills, no matter how hard I'm working. I guess I'm reverting to torque for the climbs. I rarely get much over 100 rpm.

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    Its Less , I don't count, kept up the effort long enough to cross many Borders ,
    Amsterdam To Warsaw, and back, SW Ireland to NE Scotland.

    with my touring gear..

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    Older I get, faster I was con's Avatar
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    On flats I run between 100 and 120 depending on my level of effort. Climbing I try hard to keep the RPMs up but I can't when the grade gets over 10%.

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    Yes it is a paradox
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    Average 72. Flats 80 to 100. Hills 60. I have problems with hills.

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    Senior Member MinnMan's Avatar
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    I haven't replaced my sensor battery all season, but I'm pretty slow - about 80 RPM or so under normal conditions. I work on getting it up faster to 90. In fact, I'm not sure I belong at 90 - though that's supposedly ideal for others, I think 85 or so would be my ideal.

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    Some say over 100 is ideal but I can't ride like that for long at all. I think everyone is different and the cadence/gear combo will also be different.

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    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    For me, the higher cadence did not come naturally. After winding up in the doctor's office due to knee problems caused by pushing gears that were not low enough for the climbs I was doing, I googled and read all I could find on the topic and realized my cadence was too low. The solution was in two parts:

    1. Building my own bikes using a mix of road & mtn parts to get lower gearing in a road bike than anything available.
    2. Forcing myself to spin higher cadence.

    After a while the higher cadence became natural, and I could no longer stand operating at the old, lower cadence. And I have not had the knee problems in years.

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    Senior Member GFish's Avatar
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    Warm-up - 90-105 rpm's (light gear)
    Flats - 80 - 95 rpm's
    Hill's - 60 - 80 rpm's (depending on grade)

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    Watched a Triathlon yesterday-The final round for the world championships- so pretty good riders and they are fit. Cadence was not that high at around 80--Then las tweek on the final day of the tour of Beijing two riders out front. One from Mountain bike background and one from track racing. Cadence was way different. The mountain biker was around 70 to 80 and the trackie at 100+.

    I try to keep between 80 and 90 and am not surprised when I slip down to 70 but in a higher gear to maintain speed. But come the hills and it is low gear and start at a high cadence that gets lower and lower and lower as the hill keeps going up and energy comes down.
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    Senior Member ctpres's Avatar
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    Still working on reaching a "normal." Seems like I will settle into mid 90's on flats and 110 about max without BB (butt bounce). Hills - no idea TX gulf coast is flat.
    Retired 75 YO. Got my sub 5 ET century at 50 and sub 7 RT at 75. Just want to finish at 80. USNR, USAF, USCGA - riding 2014 Zenetto Steath ZR7.1 Carbon

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    West Coast Weenie Esteban58's Avatar
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    88.

    sometimes 89.



    ok... above 110 I have sloppy riding issues

    below 80 doesn't feel right, but on long hills sometimes that seems to be my only option.
    there is no signature.

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    90+ on flats. 80-85 on a 1-2 % uphill grade, and a bit lower for a steeper grade. 100 or a bit higher going down the same grade.

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    Wow! I seem to be off the bottom of the chart. On flats, I average somewhere around 68-72. For any type of steep, extended hill, I'd be lucky to maintain 60. Rarely do I pedal downhill, (I'm going fast enough). The only time my cadence seems to be higher is when in Time Trial mode, where my cadence will be in the mid-80s. (No knee problems ... ever ... so far anyway.)
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    75-80, as low as 72 on flats. I've discovered that if I shift to a higher gear when I hit about 82, my average speed goes up and I feel the best.

    J.

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    I need speed AzTallRider's Avatar
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    On flats, I'll generally keep it in triple digits or the high 90's. I vary it quite a bit on hills: Low 90's or so when seated; much slower when standing, because that's what seems to give me the best 'break', before sitting back down and picking the cadence back up. For longer efforts, it's important to keep the cadence up to reduce the torque being applied, as pushing high torque fatigues muscles more rapidly. It's a balancing acting between muscular endurance and aerobic fitness, but as a general rule, you aren't likely to go wrong by training to use a faster average cadence.

    Triathletes, and some time trialers, do tend to use lower cadences, seeking that balance between the neuromuscular and aerobic systems. Wiggins says he reduced his TT cadence this past year, but it's still up there pretty high by 'normal' standards. As I work to improve my TT performance, I'm trying to keep the cadence up towards 100. Not easy as you get towards the end of a 40K effort.
    "If you're riding less than 18 MPH up a 2% grade please tell people Coggan is coaching you."

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    I try to stay at 85 - 100, except for tough climbs where I'm not so concerned about it and often unable to spin that fast anyway in the gearing that I have (lowest is 34 x 25).

  22. #22
    don't try this at home. rm -rf's Avatar
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    When I'm cruising at an easy pace, I'll be at about 80 rpm, with not much pedal pressure.
    The lowest I've recorded on a steep climb is 3.2 mph, 34 rpm--about one pedal stroke per second. It's getting hard to balance at that low speed. It was a 34-29 gear.

    When I'm riding solo, riding fairly fast and watching cadence, low 90s seems to be the best cadence for me.

    But if I see my Garmin recording of my rides, it varies a lot. I shift often, even for just a few pedal revolutions, so I would expect the cadence to be in a narrower band. But it isn't. EDIT---I watched on a recent ride. When I shift cogs when in the 50 chain ring, the cadence jumps 7 to 10 rpm. So this graph is just showing usual gear shifts. It's easier to keep an even cadence when riding solo!

    Here's a fast (for me) group ride where I was just hanging on in the draft. Blue is speed, tan is cadence, and green is elevation--it's essentially flat, 10 to 20 feet per mile. I was trying to be very efficient to conserve energy, mostly riding in the drops and shifting as needed. But I'm doing anywhere from low 80s to 105 in this 3 mile section.

    The chart comes from the excellent free software My Tourbook.

    Last edited by rm -rf; 10-24-12 at 07:45 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by volosong View Post
    Wow! I seem to be off the bottom of the chart. On flats, I average somewhere around 68-72. For any type of steep, extended hill, I'd be lucky to maintain 60. Rarely do I pedal downhill, (I'm going fast enough). The only time my cadence seems to be higher is when in Time Trial mode, where my cadence will be in the mid-80s. (No knee problems ... ever ... so far anyway.)
    Shocking!Heresy!

    Actually, I'm about the same... maybe a few beats faster but not much.

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    It has been a long time since I have bothered to have a cadence read out on a computer. But when I did, my cadence tended to run in the high 90s up to 110.

    It is always good to try to get to the point where you can ride a high cadence (over 90). But people seem to have a natural cadence and it varies.

    As I recall, Lemond ran a low cadence of about 85. Merckx ran a cadence of well over 100. I am not about to say that either of these gentlemen were wrong to do so.

  25. #25
    Senior Member CommuteCommando's Avatar
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    'Bout the same as you. I never knew for sure until I got a Garmin a couple of months ago. It only confirmed what I already suspected. It's comfortable for me, so I go with it. I do try to not go below that, and occasionally hit 120 on the downhill portions of the underpasses on the MUP's I frequent.
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