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  1. #26
    vhj
    vhj is offline
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    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Asheville, NC
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    1970 Raleigh 10sp
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zinger View Post
    Builders custom frames can be high dollar. Take your time and do some research. Us tall guys have a harder time finding quality old framesets to fit us.

    If you like classic lugged steel looks and have deep pockets here are some links I just picked up over in C&V. They only go up to 61 though which would work for me but might just be short for you.

    http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/road/steel/tipo-corsa/
    http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/road.../tipo-corsa-2/
    http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/road/steel/dolomiti/

    I have done the online custom fit calculators and talked to a couple of popular frame builders. I have also talked to a few LBSs. Everyone’s opinions vary about the geometry of the frame. And most places want a good deal of money to do a REAL fit and geometry. I get that people need to make a living, BUT, I'm not sure whose opinion to take after getting varying ideas.

    I am very tall and have proportionately VERY long legs. I am riding a 64cm 1970's Raleigh and with the seat stem maxed out it's really not tall enough. The top tube is 60cm to flat bars extend forward and the reach seems o.k., except my toes are very close to the front tire on turns. I also have 165 cranks and think I need longer cranks. I also wonder about the overall length of the frame hub to hub.

    What is the best way to figure up a proper geometry drawing to take to a builder when I get so many opinions?

  2. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    st augustine fl
    My Bikes
    1983 Pinarello Treviso ,2008 Specialized Tarmac, 1984 Ciocc, De Rosa 1982, Fuji Absolute 2.0 touring bike
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    I've done a couple of total running gear upgrades to old frames and I think a couple of points are worth bringing up.

    When you do a total redo of the mechanicals you get the chance to really go to school on how your bike is put together and how to fix and adjust shifters, brakes etc.

    To me, this is very valuable, no matter how many things I do on bikes I can always learn more and it brings you closer to being a fully functional rider who can solve problems on the road as they arise.

    Also, if you load up an old frame with top quality and well chosen running gear and you find a frame you like better, you still have all that gear to do your next build. I have a very nice set of wheels that have been on three builds and have enough life to see a few more..money well spent I'd say.

    This is my latest, an 86 Nishiki (I had this in C&V) built it in two days from a totally stripped frame, did one test/adjust afternoon and have been riding for a week now with zero issues.






    Mike
    Last edited by bykemike; 07-28-13 at 12:48 PM.
    "ready to navigate"

  3. #28
    Trek 500 Kid Zinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Spokane WA
    My Bikes
    '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
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    Quote Originally Posted by vhj View Post
    I have done the online custom fit calculators and talked to a couple of popular frame builders. I have also talked to a few LBSs. Everyone’s opinions vary about the geometry of the frame. And most places want a good deal of money to do a REAL fit and geometry. I get that people need to make a living, BUT, I'm not sure whose opinion to take after getting varying ideas.

    I am very tall and have proportionately VERY long legs. I am riding a 64cm 1970's Raleigh and with the seat stem maxed out it's really not tall enough. The top tube is 60cm to flat bars extend forward and the reach seems o.k., except my toes are very close to the front tire on turns. I also have 165 cranks and think I need longer cranks. I also wonder about the overall length of the frame hub to hub.

    What is the best way to figure up a proper geometry drawing to take to a builder when I get so many opinions?
    Gee 64cm and it's still short. You are a taller man than me.
    You can use a mountain bike seatpost to get your seat higher. Just make sure it's the right diameter, preferably by measuring yours with a micrometer or calipers and converting what you get to metric.

    You can also use a longer Nitto stem to increase height & reach if you need to. On old fashioned bikes like yours your nose should be even with the centerline of the top of the bars with your hands on the drops and your head looking up and forward. I've even taped string to my nose with a little washer tied to the end just to get it right. Your bars should be about as wide as your shoulders, btw.

    You will simply need the tallest bike and since I don't quite have that problem I wouldn't have advice for frame builders to refer. Someone local to you might be best I guess.

    Your crankarms should be at least 175 and in your case I'd try and find some 180s or 185s.
    Last edited by Zinger; 07-28-13 at 04:20 PM.
    "I never lost a race because my bike was too heavy".......George Mount

  4. #29
    Senior Member big john's Avatar
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    http://khsbicycles.com/bikes/2013-khs-models/flite-747/

    This KHS is pretty big and has 200mm cranks.

    For custom I think Gunnar is the best value I know of.

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