Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: XRP Handlebars

  1. #1
    Senior Member camelopardalis's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    234
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    XRP Handlebars

    I just bought a bike that has this XRP handlebar with a flat top. This to me is such a better design than a round bar inasmuch as there is a vastly superior distribution of weight on the hands. I would like to find a similar design in a 25.4 diameter bar. Is such a product available?

    http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...carbonbars.htm

    Thank you in advance.

  2. #2
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    2,496
    Mentioned
    41 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If you are creative , you can carve some rubber pieces that you put under the Bar tape..

    20 years ago there was Off the Front grip shapes , that is what they did..

    Low cost .. say carve a shape in a piece of wood , wax coat it as mold release, then pour in plasti-dip

    the stuff for tool handles . let it cure , take it out ..and repeat .

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    22,117
    Mentioned
    60 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    IMO if you're riding with enough weight on the bars for this to make a difference, you're either not fitted well, or need to change how you hold the bars. There's no reason to have that much load on the heel of your hand. You can relax the grip and hold the bars at the end of your palms, using wrist flex to absorb shock.

    Plus you can rotate between the various other hand positions. The center of the top is the worst place to hold a bar since it means you're not available to the brakes without changing the grip. Most riders use the position only for climbing, in which case they're pulling, not resting on the bar. Or for rest intervals, while drinking or eating, or when tooling along on a quiet road while chatting with riding buddies.

    If you're spending much more time than that on the tops, it's a sign that you weren't properly fitted.

    Sorry for the lecture, I know this is what you want, but don't expect you'll find one, because it requires a split stem, and 25.4 (or even 26mm) split stems aren't common.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  4. #4
    Senior Member camelopardalis's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    234
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    If you are creative , you can carve some rubber pieces that you put under the Bar tape..

    20 years ago there was Off the Front grip shapes , that is what they did..

    Low cost .. say carve a shape in a piece of wood , wax coat it as mold release, then pour in plasti-dip

    the stuff for tool handles . let it cure , take it out ..and repeat .
    I'm surprised that they don't make the Off the Front grip shapes any more. I would have expected enough of a demand to justify continuous production. And no, I'm not creative.

  5. #5
    Senior Member camelopardalis's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    234
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Sorry for the lecture, I know this is what you want, but don't expect you'll find one, because it requires a split stem, and 25.4 (or even 26mm) split stems aren't common.
    Not being mechanically inclined, I didn't even think about the need for a split stem. It is too obvious when pointed out. I guess a relatively simple option is to use a threadless stem converter. That would look silly on a 20 year old bike though, don't you think?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •