Rich Gibson 

I've seen a ton of these posts in other threads and fora, but the civility in this forum leads me to ask the question here first. A search shows conversion of a hybrid to roadie is out. I almost bit on a LBS 10% discount on a Trek 2.0 but it's still almost $1300. I understand there is a considerable number of folks who "hate" Trek but the invective doesn't help make a decision. I've got 4000 miles on mine without a single complaint; to me it's a competent, acceptable brand. A review of Craigslist in the DC/Baltimore suggests there might be some good deals to try, especially since I can test ride the bikes. So far I'm considering (all are 56 cm):

- 2013 Fuji Roubaix 1.0 LE Road Bike - $900 (looks great..gives me goose bumps!)
- 200? Specialized Allez Elite - $550 (all silver 2005/2006/2007) double
- 2011 Trek 2.1 - $975
- 2012 Specialized Tarmac C2- 2012, Size 56, Black/White - $1000 (seems really aggressive..too much?)
- 2005 Specialized Allez Elite - $575 (red w white trim) Not sure of year; from photo looks like a triple

I love riding. So far I've logged 4000 miles around the DC area since last July trainer or roads/trails, no rough trails. I am not interested in racing. From discussing with various stores my requirement would be an endurance road bike as opposed to racing. My price range is between $500 and $1000 max.

Thanks in advance.

Rich

fietsbob

Transition ? after the swim you put on the bike shoes and ride to the place where you hang the bike up, start the running part ..

they are just different brands trying to get a slice of the Bike Market segment good / bad at bike shops is really such a small difference,

mostly owing to shop service after the sale .. pick the dealer then test ride the bikes ..

the parts to build a $500 are not as costly as those to build one that costs 2X as much .

Reality .. I cannot assess used bikes for you from the other side of the country ..

Rich Gibson 

As I mentioned these are off Craig's List DC/Baltimore. I have a great little repair shop to do any service needed. I realize used stuff may need to be fixed. I was hoping for objective assessment of the particular model lines in terms of reliability, ride, comfort. I understand a bike costing 2x as much is 2x as costly to build. These bikes were all around $1200 new. Any other comments/suggestions?

Thanks, Rich

BluesDawg

I would try a few different models to see which kind of frame geometry works best for you. For example, the Specialized Sectuer or Roubaix models would be the "endurance" models while the Allez and Tarmac are more "race" geometry with shorter head tubes and chainstays and quicker steering. The Allez is actually a bit less aggressive than the Tarmac while the Sectuer and Roubaix have basically identical geometry. Other brands have similar distinctions but I am less familiar with their model names.

By researching the brand websites you can find geometry charts for most bikes. Comparing stack and reach (if given), head tube length, chainstay length, head tube angle and seat tube angle, you can get an idea how the different models will handle. Of course, actually riding them would be the best confirmation.

JimF22003

Nothing wrong with Trek. My first two hybrids and first two road bikes were Treks

An endurance style road bike sounds perfect. You might also consider cross bikes as well as pure road bikes. It's basically a road bike with more durable tires, and brakes, along with some other geometry differences. It's nice for riding on stuff like the C&O canal, or other gravel-type roads. But it can still do well on pavement, although it won't feel as sprightly as a road bike. It may be heavier too.

I happen to have a Specialize Tri-Cross for sale cheap if you're interested

I think I'm local to you. Send me a PM if you're interested, or just want to chat.

Wogster

Trek is like the Ford of the bicycling world, decent line, quality products, reasonable prices.

However, by looking at individual bikes, your starting at the wrong end of your search..... First you need to decide if you need a triple, or if a double with an extra low, bottom end will do. Look at your hybrid to give you an idea. If you use the granny a lot, then you may want a triple. If you find yourself going years without granny, then a double may be sufficient. You may want to use a double with a wider range though, like a 34/53 rather then a 43/53.

Now you need to decide if you need wider tires, if your more then 200lbs the answer is yes, you also want to avoid the low spoke count wheels. Another consideration, aluminum frames can ride rough, steel has a nice ride, but can be a little heavier (adds about 2lbs to the bike weight), carbon reinforced plastic is light, but is easily damaged in a crash. One thing to add to this, AVOID used aluminum and carbon bikes.....

Are you considering loaded touring at all?

More later, I gotta go ride

Miami Biker

Wogster said it best, select the right bike over something built for someone else at perhaps a good price.

Believe one gets the best value using a LBS and getting the right bike for them. YMMV

BluesDawg

Why? Any documentation for this?

spdracr39

Go to the LBS and ride some different models/types of road bikes when you find the one/ones you love look for a similar used ones. I made a list of my favorite color schemes narrowed it down and road those. Ended up with two favorites and relentlessly searched craigslist till I found what I wanted.

bikemig 

I'd focus on something a little different. Rather than seeking advice on particular models, I'd think about how bikes are designed and how those designs might work for your purposes. Two things I'd keep in mind are gearing and tire size.

With gearing, you probably want a bike with a compact or a triple since that will give you wider gearing.

With tire sizes, most road bikes can't handle anything bigger than a 700 x 28c and probably can't really handle anything much bigger than a 700 x 25c. Bigger tires are comfy. I'd seriously consider getting a bike that can handle a 700 x 32c.

A cross bike might work well for your needs for that reason. I set up my Soma double cross, for example, as a road bike with wide ranging gearing. I'm running 700 x 32c tires; the gearing is 48-36-26, 12-27.

Wanderer

Don't be afraid of anything. At our age, we take better care of stuff.

You might want to give serious consideration to "endurance" and triples - more relaxed, and more choices for them hills. Higher bars will also take better care of your neck.

Age has it' s limitations, demands, and enjoyments. One of those is choice.

Rich Gibson 

Lots of good things to consider. As for avoiding used aluminum bikes I've seen a thread here about concerns of aluminum fatigue from repeated flexing. I was a Navy carrier pilot and am well aware of the problems of metal fatigue from G loading. Our attack aircraft were aging (A4C & A7A,B,C,E Vietnam era) and we would get hairline cracks on the ailerons and elevators. The metal smiths would either patch the crack or stop drill it. I think this concern is over blown. Based on my experience I don't expect that an aluminum framed bike would crack under the use it's put to. It's just a couple of hundred dollar bike and I expect things to wear out. I just won't want to spend over $1000 on my first try at road bikes.

I'm already riding a compact, dual set already and am able to handle the hills I've encountered so far. I don't ever expect to try centuries or overnight cross country rides, no loaded touring, no rain or snow riding. I enjoy getting out and communing with nature and challenging myself. Nothing serious, no racing. A triple or dual should be fine.

I noticed that the upright riding style of my Trek hybrid puts a lot of stress on my quads and that when I rest my arms and lower myself on the bike I get more use out of my glutes. On the trainer it's easy to see how my pace drops a few RPM when I sit upright and watch TV; it's easier to keep up the pace leaning over. The idea of a lower angle on my torso and sharing the muscle load is appealing. When I started back on the road after using the trainer over the winter my lower quads were constantly sore from the load and the hills. My neck doesn't seem to be an issue. I'm riding on 35mm tires right now and definitely did not like the original 28mm 100psi tires which came on the original FX 7.6. This is why I really liked the ride of the Trek 2.1 with the seat bar isolation; it's just too much to spend right now for me.

I weigh 180# and am hoping to get to around 175# by the end of this summer. I did go to several bike shops, both highly regarded and the consensus was that an endurance was called for.

Thanks for your suggestions. I'm going to a shop today which specializes in used bikes. I hope to see a range of types to try.

Gotta get out and ride before the thunderstorms hit this afternoon.

Rich

crazyb

[QUOTE=Wogster;16798164]

Now you need to decide if you need wider tires, if your more then 200lbs the answer is yes, you also want to avoid the low spoke count wheels.

To the OP, I weigh 220, ride 20-24 spoke count wheelset with 700-23 tires. 15,000 miles later no broken spokes, not even any loose ones. Don't worry about that one.

10 Wheels

https://www.bikeforums.net/fitting-yo...l#post15830312

Get the one that talks to you.

doctor j

Yeah, you gotta watch those aluminum frames. I got only 19,000 miles out of my Fuji aluminum and it... oh wait, never mind, it's still rolling fine.

doctor j

I'm guessing the Cannondale Synapse is an endurance frame. They are available in Al or C. If you could find a used one at the shop you mentioned, I'd give it a try. Mine has been very comfortable over some reasonably long distances.

John_V 

My riding buddy is 250 pounds and rides a carbon Masi with 20/24 Ritchey wheels. When he first got the bike, he was having spoke nipples on the rear wheel crack open around 30 miles into a ride. He had all the OEM aluminum nipples on the rear wheel replaced with brass nipples and that solved the problem. No problems on the front wheel with the aluminum nipples.

Wogster

Aluminum has a life span, it can only flex so many times before it will crack and then break. It's hard to tell with a used bike if that frame has 1 mile on it or 1,000,000 miles on it, so it could be a decade from breaking or it could be 5 minutes from breaking.

Carbon, can be damaged and not show it. Carbon is short for Carbon Fibre reinforced plastic. Most failures are cascade failures, a few Carbon fibre strands are broken and it does not show, but weakens the material, every time stress is put on that area, a few more strands break, until eventually it fails completely. Some people are honest folk, and would replace a damaged frame. Other folk are not so honest, and would sell that bike and replace it. The buyer is then the one who finds out about the damage when it comes apart.

These issues are why it's recommended to avoid used AL and CF bicycles, unless you know the seller and the bicycle extremely well.

crazyb

Any numbers on incidents regarding failures? 10% 50%? .0001%?

Rich Gibson 

I bought the Fuji Roubaix 1.0 LE 2013 model, new. List $1529 I paid $999 and also got $105 in store credit (So I can buy my SPD pedals for it).

It talked to me...it said "The eyes of Texas are upon you!" I guess it knew I was a Cowboys fan.

Thanks to all who provide positive guidance and specific recommendations.

Rich

Wanderer

It's not real without pictures .................... What is the difference between the13s and the14s? I see Performance has the 14s on sale, for the same price.

jyl

I can't speak to newer aluminum frames, but many Cannondales from the 80s and 90s are still going strong. The amount of flex that a bike frame gets is pretty minor - the "engine" just isn't that strong. I wouldn't worry about aluminum frames any more than I would worry about all the other aluminum components on a bike - which is just about everything, stem, handlebars, seatpost, cranks, etc.

Rich Gibson 

Once I pick it up I'll shoot it. I don't know the differences. They weren't offering the 2014 at this store.

Rich

JimF22003

Congrats! Pics are required. Hope to see you out on the road, sir.

Dudelsack 

Well, I'm against g*n violence. And what did that poor bike ever do to deserve to be put down like that? And what about eagle rights? How can they vote? Their wings would get tangled at a voting booth...