Lighter bike = faster?
#1
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Lighter bike = faster?
I did 50 miles with a friend today. at 50, he's 7 years younger and he has a Specialized road bike, carbon frame, Dura Ace 10 speed set up. Weighs 17 lbs. My Litespeed Blue Ridge is about 22 lbs. Online specs say 18.5, but I weighed it at the bike shop and it's closer to 22. Anyway, my friend left me in the dust. Would a lighter bike designed for road riding make me faster. I have Mavic A719 wheels, Continental Contact tires (700x 28, I think), Ultegra 11 speed setup. Or are age, genetic factors (longer legs and torso--him, I mean), and bad riding habits to blame?
Last edited by jlstrat; 05-30-14 at 02:18 PM. Reason: punctuation
#2
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Yes, that old tank is holding you back; you're already fast and just don't know it. You totally deserve a new, lightweight bike with Di2 and all the latest electronic gizmos.
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oh Scott, you can't resist can you?
OP: You can get a *tiny* edge with a better bike. Here are some totally believable statistics that I just made up: It's 75% engine, 18% technique, 5% fit, and 2% the bike. I challenge anybody to make up more convincing facts.
OP: You can get a *tiny* edge with a better bike. Here are some totally believable statistics that I just made up: It's 75% engine, 18% technique, 5% fit, and 2% the bike. I challenge anybody to make up more convincing facts.
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1. The fastest human powered bikes are faired recumbents. They aren't light in weight.
2. A lighter bike will accelerate better. Since every ride starts at zero MPH, a lighter bike will always "feel" faster.
3. If you want to go faster, work on your position on the bike. Next to the energy that's required to push your torso through the air everything else combined is small potatoes.
2. A lighter bike will accelerate better. Since every ride starts at zero MPH, a lighter bike will always "feel" faster.
3. If you want to go faster, work on your position on the bike. Next to the energy that's required to push your torso through the air everything else combined is small potatoes.
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#5
~>~
It's not about the hardware, and never has been.
If you want to get faster put in the quality seat time: Build a solid base for endurance, work the hills for power, time trial & sprint.
Or just don't fret and go for a nice bicycle ride.
-Bandera
If you want to get faster put in the quality seat time: Build a solid base for endurance, work the hills for power, time trial & sprint.
Or just don't fret and go for a nice bicycle ride.
-Bandera
#7
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There are valid reasons why a new bike will make you faster that don't have anything to do with physics. I see no reason to deny Mr. Strat the justification he's looking for.
I approve this purchase.
Again with the valves erased... why do they do that?
Last edited by DiabloScott; 05-30-14 at 03:21 PM.
#8
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[h=1]Bicycle weight and commuting time: randomised trial[/h]
Bicycle weight and commuting time: randomised trial | BMJ
Bicycle weight and commuting time: randomised trial | BMJ
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Have you weighed your buddy's bike? It may not actually weigh 17 pounds.
You may want to try some lighter wheels and faster tires, though. Those changes might actually help a little.
Also, maybe you could see if he will let you try his bike. You may be surprised at how much faster you aren't.
You may want to try some lighter wheels and faster tires, though. Those changes might actually help a little.
Also, maybe you could see if he will let you try his bike. You may be surprised at how much faster you aren't.
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Weight does matter on uphill, of course at downhill you get that extra push with weight, but my experience is that extra weight really does matter when climbing steep hill.
I base this for my experiment where I did took 18kg bike and made it to 13kg bike, wheels, tires, fenders, racks etc. made that much difference in weight and it did feel, I could make up to hills I had to walk before.
But when comparing 5lbs that is around 2.3kg, difference is not huge, imo. It is something one can notice, but not huge, however if you were at your limit and had to push even over your limit, then it can be that with 2.3kg less you might of been able stay withing your limits and thus there is a chance to beat your friend, so of course new bike might well be something worthwhile.
However consider carefully what it will mean if he will leave you to dust when you have new bike, that would be unacceptable
Oh, anyone not believing weight making difference can check how much more wattage it does require to climb hill up with same speed, if person then can produce X amount of watts for that time without burning all the reserves and maintaining that pace for hill would require Y amount of watts, then one has to either improve produced watts or reduce weight to reduce needed watts, sometimes it is that little amount that makes big gains.
I have so many times run out of steam to that one big hill which has resulted rest of course being like there would of been huge headwind, but small change in weight of cycle kept required watts enough low so that I did not need to burn everything to that single hill and I could push hard even near end of my training course.
But of course I am a beginner in cycling and I'm not very athletic at least yet, so there might be less benefit for those that have much more background in cycling and athletic bodies so that such collapse does not happen. Also I have no any idea how those pro guys can ride that fast on mountains, certainly I could not even get up of such climbs they do on Tour, so meaning of weight may well be different for different cyclists.
I base this for my experiment where I did took 18kg bike and made it to 13kg bike, wheels, tires, fenders, racks etc. made that much difference in weight and it did feel, I could make up to hills I had to walk before.
But when comparing 5lbs that is around 2.3kg, difference is not huge, imo. It is something one can notice, but not huge, however if you were at your limit and had to push even over your limit, then it can be that with 2.3kg less you might of been able stay withing your limits and thus there is a chance to beat your friend, so of course new bike might well be something worthwhile.
However consider carefully what it will mean if he will leave you to dust when you have new bike, that would be unacceptable
Oh, anyone not believing weight making difference can check how much more wattage it does require to climb hill up with same speed, if person then can produce X amount of watts for that time without burning all the reserves and maintaining that pace for hill would require Y amount of watts, then one has to either improve produced watts or reduce weight to reduce needed watts, sometimes it is that little amount that makes big gains.
I have so many times run out of steam to that one big hill which has resulted rest of course being like there would of been huge headwind, but small change in weight of cycle kept required watts enough low so that I did not need to burn everything to that single hill and I could push hard even near end of my training course.
But of course I am a beginner in cycling and I'm not very athletic at least yet, so there might be less benefit for those that have much more background in cycling and athletic bodies so that such collapse does not happen. Also I have no any idea how those pro guys can ride that fast on mountains, certainly I could not even get up of such climbs they do on Tour, so meaning of weight may well be different for different cyclists.
#11
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Bicycle weight and commuting time: randomised trial
Bicycle weight and commuting time: randomised trial | BMJ
Bicycle weight and commuting time: randomised trial | BMJ
#12
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Despite my sig I'm quite sure the newer sub 20lb 20 speed bikes with the brifters are going to get you an advantage all other things being equal......Since they pass me a lot nowadays. Used to be a mid '80s Le Tour vs mid '80s Italian came down to the motor but the new tech makes more difference.
You don't necessarily have to go CF to get the weight down some if you don't like the looks of 'em though.
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I'm just an old George Mount fan and had to find something quotable.
You don't necessarily have to go CF to get the weight down some if you don't like the looks of 'em though.
Surly Pacer Racer - Salvagetti Bicycle Workshop | 303-691-5595 | Denver, CO
I'm just an old George Mount fan and had to find something quotable.
Last edited by Zinger; 05-30-14 at 03:35 PM.
#13
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#14
~>~
There is no substitute for doing the work if one wants to go faster, tossing $ about is good for the economy though.
-Bandera
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Maybe a new bike will inspire him. Nothing like being passed by a Fred on a Le Tour to either make you hang it up or take up some intervals.
#16
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Get off the cruiser, and get a bike more suited to that type of riding. You're on a touring bike, that has forever chainstays, and tractor tires.
Find out for yourself.
Find out for yourself.
#17
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I'd recommend a fixie conversion on the Litespeed as well, but titanium can be a little hard on the drewing wheel.
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Do yourself a favor and read this: How Lightweight Do You NEED Your Bike To Be?
#19
~>~
"The effort lasted an hour and so it's about your legs, not really the bike."
-Ryder Hesjedal Garmin Sharp Team 5/30/2014 Stage 19 Cima Grappa mountain time trial Giro D'Italia
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#20
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#21
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Brute facts of existence time.
My FTP (60) is about 150W. Anemic. Let's say yours is 200 (very nice, BTW. Your training is really paying off).
You weigh 175#. Your bike is a piggish 30#. Convert 205# into kg so you don't get depressed. 93 kg and some change.
Your power to weight ratio is 2.15.
You buy a 16# wunderbike. Your portfolio is looking good, is it? So your combined weight is 191#, or 87 kg.
Now your power to weight ratio is 2.29.
Whether it is worth it is up to you. I'm not smart enough to translate W/kg into getting up an 8% grade! but I don't imagine the difference would be great.
Having said that, buy the wunderbike, post it on the 41, and have everyone rag on you because you don't deserve such a nice bike and be sure to wear the full kit of your favorite pro team.
My FTP (60) is about 150W. Anemic. Let's say yours is 200 (very nice, BTW. Your training is really paying off).
You weigh 175#. Your bike is a piggish 30#. Convert 205# into kg so you don't get depressed. 93 kg and some change.
Your power to weight ratio is 2.15.
You buy a 16# wunderbike. Your portfolio is looking good, is it? So your combined weight is 191#, or 87 kg.
Now your power to weight ratio is 2.29.
Whether it is worth it is up to you. I'm not smart enough to translate W/kg into getting up an 8% grade! but I don't imagine the difference would be great.
Having said that, buy the wunderbike, post it on the 41, and have everyone rag on you because you don't deserve such a nice bike and be sure to wear the full kit of your favorite pro team.
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Every time I think I'd be faster on a newer lighter bike, I remember that the 15 or 20 lbs I could stand to lose would be much cheaper way to increase my speed.
#23
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Typical. Believe it or not, a bike made for speed really does make a huge difference. It isn't strictly about that dump you need to take, or that ten pounds you should lose. Everything you put into the bike transfers to the bike. Not to mention the unbridled joy you get from riding the most bad-ass bike you've ever been on.
#24
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Typical. Believe it or not, a bike made for speed really does make a huge difference. It isn't strictly about that dump you need to take, or that ten pounds you should lose. Everything you put into the bike transfers to the bike. Not to mention the unbridled joy you get from riding the most bad-ass bike you've ever been on.
Maybe he is a dentist, in which case I take it back.
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#25
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A Serotta, on the other hand......