Curiosity question about crank sets, for everyone over 50
#51
Banned
The bike is built up with the parts the component supplier ships to the assembly line .. once you own the bike ,
Then it is perhaps time to substitute the typical triple 30t for something smaller.. I have a 50-40-24t on my road & non IGH touring Bike..
High gear cog is 13t..
11 t a smaller big ring should do.. those VO cranks with a 30-46, perhaps ?
Then it is perhaps time to substitute the typical triple 30t for something smaller.. I have a 50-40-24t on my road & non IGH touring Bike..
High gear cog is 13t..
11 t a smaller big ring should do.. those VO cranks with a 30-46, perhaps ?
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-29-14 at 09:58 AM.
#52
Senior Member
I like the idea of a compact 50/34 double crank pared with a 11-32 cassette.
11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32
....just a very basic, very common, 8 speed cassette - such as the Shimano HG50-8.
It would suit my needs for a very wide range and a very relaxed, steady ride. No need to go all out balls to the wall, racing everyone I see. I want a nice endurance style road bike where I can be comfortable and ride 50, 60, or so miles and not have a problem at all.
11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32
....just a very basic, very common, 8 speed cassette - such as the Shimano HG50-8.
It would suit my needs for a very wide range and a very relaxed, steady ride. No need to go all out balls to the wall, racing everyone I see. I want a nice endurance style road bike where I can be comfortable and ride 50, 60, or so miles and not have a problem at all.
11-12-13-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32
I'm fairly satisfied. The 34-32 can handle most hills in the Southern Californian mountains. I won't get up very fast, but I'll make it eventually. The lowest my 6700 triple goes is 30-30, which isn't much lower than the 34-32, (1.6 gear inches difference).
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,433
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
Just a random curiosity question...
Let's say you are in the market for a nice road bike. Would you opt for one with a triple crank or keep it traditional with a double crank? Since we're all well seasoned and have aged gracefully, would a triple crank be more efficient and easier on hills?
Let's say you are in the market for a nice road bike. Would you opt for one with a triple crank or keep it traditional with a double crank? Since we're all well seasoned and have aged gracefully, would a triple crank be more efficient and easier on hills?
Even if you don't need a triple where you live (as per your post no. 26) you may still want one. There probably are some great hills near where you live and you may take the bike for a ride in the western part of your state.
#54
Old. Slow. Happy.
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Road
50/34 crankset with 11-32 cassette (SRAM Force & Rival, 11s)
Commute
48/34 crankset with 11-36 cassette (SRAM Apex, 10s)
MTB
36/24 crankset with 11-36 cassette (SRAM X9, 10s)
50/34 crankset with 11-32 cassette (SRAM Force & Rival, 11s)
Commute
48/34 crankset with 11-36 cassette (SRAM Apex, 10s)
MTB
36/24 crankset with 11-36 cassette (SRAM X9, 10s)
#55
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,793
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1390 Post(s)
Liked 1,322 Times
in
835 Posts
I get the kind of steps I want, and avoid cross-chaining, using different than stock chainrings on 110 BC doubles but I'm giving up my top end (such as it ever was anyway) on one bike and pretty much any hill bailout below about 40 gear inches on the other.....depending on freewheels (or cassettes) used. ...
If I wanted a wider range (top and/or bottom) I would do follow chasm's triple chainring advice to avoid big ratio steps.
I did like the close-ratio half-step-plus-granny 3x6 triple I tried on the Peugeot, before I gave it to my son: 48-45-34 / 13-15-17-19-21-24. I was able to use a short cage SunTour Cyclone rear and the Peugeot's stock Simplex front changer and still get a 40 to 100 inch range, with an orderly and dense progression of ratios all the way up.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#56
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Midwest US
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My road bike has a 53/42 on the front and my lowest on the rear is 24. Let me tell you that at 60+ years I need a couple of lower gears even here in the flat midwest. I'll soon be looking at a different crank set.
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Metro DC
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Actually, I have bikes with both since I buy used bikes I like that fit me and my purchases are guided more by price, condition, and beauty than number of gears. Still, if I were to start with a frame and do a custom build I'd go with a triple.
#58
Trek 500 Kid
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 2,562
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2904 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times
in
307 Posts
I concur. Since I have so little use for more than 100 gear-inches, and since I can always coast, I do not carry anything above 94 to 98 on the road bikes, or 104 on the mountain bike. Likewise, I don't go below the low 40s on the road bikes or the mid 20s on the mountain bike (which does have a triple). Instead, as a couple of others have noted, I like a tight -- 6 or 7 percent -- gear progression across most of the range, possibly with larger gaps at the top and bottom. This is my frustration with even the best internally geared hubs -- the gear ratio steps are too far apart for my tastes.
If I wanted a wider range (top and/or bottom) I would do follow chasm's triple chainring advice to avoid big ratio steps.
I did like the close-ratio half-step-plus-granny 3x6 triple I tried on the Peugeot, before I gave it to my son: 48-45-34 / 13-15-17-19-21-24. I was able to use a short cage SunTour Cyclone rear and the Peugeot's stock Simplex front changer and still get a 40 to 100 inch range, with an orderly and dense progression of ratios all the way up.
If I wanted a wider range (top and/or bottom) I would do follow chasm's triple chainring advice to avoid big ratio steps.
I did like the close-ratio half-step-plus-granny 3x6 triple I tried on the Peugeot, before I gave it to my son: 48-45-34 / 13-15-17-19-21-24. I was able to use a short cage SunTour Cyclone rear and the Peugeot's stock Simplex front changer and still get a 40 to 100 inch range, with an orderly and dense progression of ratios all the way up.
Luckily I found a 46 NOS Campy MTB ring that looks great with the VO compact on one bike. Most Campy 110 BC rings have one of the bolt holes offset from that pattern but this one is a uniform 110. So 40 to 94 gear inches on that one.
Sugino rings will suffice for the other bike with the Sugino compact and that bike has 34 gear inch bailout.......enough for whatever baby hills I take on.
Last edited by Zinger; 09-26-14 at 03:36 PM.
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ellensburg,WA
Posts: 3,179
Bikes: Schwinn Broadway, Specialized Secteur Sport(crashed) Spec. Roubaix Sport, Spec. Crux
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 179 Post(s)
Liked 167 Times
in
83 Posts
Utter nonsense! With a 34 small ring and an 11-what ever cassette you are good to speeds below 22 mph if you have the ability to spin and if you don't, learn. At the same time if you go to a 30 cog climbing the steep stuff for miles on end is possible. Moderate speeds having a tight cluster and triple gives close ratios in the middle to slower half of the cassette. You might get a 16 cog. The fast half all the jumps are a bit farther apart. Now that you can get road derailleurs that will accomodate 32 cogs triples have lost more of their appeal.
I'm not saying they do not have a place and as long as there is a market why not. To argue which is better is pointless. I prefer a double it gives me everything I need. I'll speculate that there are real differences in the abilities between those who buy their bikes online and those who patronize a LBS. FWIW I've been told that fitness/comfort bikes is the fastest growing market segment for LBS anyway. Also I am seeing triples on mtn bikes. I think they will be here for a long time.
OP question was if I were in the market for a nice road bike what would it be: Mid compact x 11sp.
__________________
Sir Mark, Knight of Sufferlandria
Sir Mark, Knight of Sufferlandria
#60
Senior Member
Curiosity question about crank sets, for everyone over 50
With a triple and 10 speed cassette you have the most incredible wide range of gears you will ever need. Yet the debate over gearing still goes on.
I use a 2 x 5 classic ten speed setup. It still works very well. I tried a new bike with compact double and 10 speed rear. All I did was shift, shift, shift. Too many to choose from. I like the feel of 10 gear inch increments with my classic ten speed.
I use a 2 x 5 classic ten speed setup. It still works very well. I tried a new bike with compact double and 10 speed rear. All I did was shift, shift, shift. Too many to choose from. I like the feel of 10 gear inch increments with my classic ten speed.
#61
~>~
The proper answer would depend on a number of variables: all based on the Low & High ranges required and a rider's tolerance for steps between cogs, budget and aesthetics.
Select the lowest gear that will get you up the stiffest local climb w/o undue stress & the highest gear that you are willing to spin-out on the other side.
Now you have your Low & High range defined. Cram as many cogs in the back & chain rings up front to suit your self and have at it.
It's a personal thing, but getting the Range dialed in is critical.
With modern cassettes having a Flat, Rolling & Mountain cassette to switch out as required is a 10 minute job, considering the expense of current machines a good investment in performance for few $.
-Bandera
Select the lowest gear that will get you up the stiffest local climb w/o undue stress & the highest gear that you are willing to spin-out on the other side.
Now you have your Low & High range defined. Cram as many cogs in the back & chain rings up front to suit your self and have at it.
It's a personal thing, but getting the Range dialed in is critical.
With modern cassettes having a Flat, Rolling & Mountain cassette to switch out as required is a 10 minute job, considering the expense of current machines a good investment in performance for few $.
-Bandera
Last edited by Bandera; 09-26-14 at 05:04 PM.
#63
a77impala
I am 70 and like a compact double for most riding situations, however when planning a hilly trip I take a bike with triples. I just regeared one to 50/39/30 with 11/30 cassette.
I spend winters in Austin TX, where not uncommon to see compact doubles with 11/34 cassettes. Lots of hills, I have a bike there with 46/36/26 and 12/28 cassette, 7 speed.
I spend winters in Austin TX, where not uncommon to see compact doubles with 11/34 cassettes. Lots of hills, I have a bike there with 46/36/26 and 12/28 cassette, 7 speed.
#64
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,433
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
The decision between a double and a triple is driven as much by marketing/engineering decisions by Shimano/SRAM/Campy as it is by what riders actually need. Compacts are easy to find and work well with brifters. Shimano's triple, IMHO, is a poor design that doesn't offer much of an advantage over a compact. SRAM went over to compacts a long time ago and Campy is expensive.
A triple with a 110/74 bcd (and those are getting harder to find) gives you the best of both worlds as you basically get a compact with a bailout gear. Plus typically the big 2 rings mimic what you see on a modern cross bike (48-36 or 46-36) and that works better, I think, than the 50-34 you find on a compact.
A triple with a 110/74 bcd (and those are getting harder to find) gives you the best of both worlds as you basically get a compact with a bailout gear. Plus typically the big 2 rings mimic what you see on a modern cross bike (48-36 or 46-36) and that works better, I think, than the 50-34 you find on a compact.
#65
Have bike, will travel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,284
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 910 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
158 Posts
The decision between a double and a triple is driven as much by marketing/engineering decisions by Shimano/SRAM/Campy as it is by what riders actually need. Compacts are easy to find and work well with brifters. Shimano's triple, IMHO, is a poor design that doesn't offer much of an advantage over a compact. SRAM went over to compacts a long time ago and Campy is expensive.
A triple with a 110/74 bcd (and those are getting harder to find) gives you the best of both worlds as you basically get a compact with a bailout gear. Plus typically the big 2 rings mimic what you see on a modern cross bike (48-36 or 46-36) and that works better, I think, than the 50-34 you find on a compact.
A triple with a 110/74 bcd (and those are getting harder to find) gives you the best of both worlds as you basically get a compact with a bailout gear. Plus typically the big 2 rings mimic what you see on a modern cross bike (48-36 or 46-36) and that works better, I think, than the 50-34 you find on a compact.
Utter nonsense! With a 34 small ring and an 11-what ever cassette you are good to speeds below 22 mph if you have the ability to spin and if you don't, learn. At the same time if you go to a 30 cog climbing the steep stuff for miles on end is possible. Moderate speeds having a tight cluster and triple gives close ratios in the middle to slower half of the cassette. You might get a 16 cog. The fast half all the jumps are a bit farther apart. Now that you can get road derailleurs that will accomodate 32 cogs triples have lost more of their appeal.
How do I know? I installed an Ultegra 50 -34 compact with an 11-32 (11,12,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32) Sram road cassette with an Ultegra long arm rear derailleur more than 4 years ago, it was only useful on very hilly routes and a total pain on faster rides on flat roads.
See: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-dista...r-no-hill.html
The 11 to 30 cassette you use to justify your opinion doesn't exist and wouldn't be an improvement over a road triple and a 12-27 cassette. You would likely end up with a 15.4% change in cadence between the 13 and 15 cogs right at the 20 to 23 mph cruising speed while on the big ring. A 11,12,13,15,17,19,21,24, 28,30 would not result in a better hill climbing range than most road triples.
Returning to reality, we see that the popular Compact and 11-28 cassette combination is inferior to the 52, 39 & 30 triple with a 12-27 cassette. The triple provides both tighter cog spacing with a very usefull 12,13,14,15,16,17,19 block that can be used from 15 to 33 mph. Please click on the image below.
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 09-29-14 at 11:26 AM.
#66
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ellensburg,WA
Posts: 3,179
Bikes: Schwinn Broadway, Specialized Secteur Sport(crashed) Spec. Roubaix Sport, Spec. Crux
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 179 Post(s)
Liked 167 Times
in
83 Posts
I'm not using an 11-30 cassette to justify my opinion. I am using 5k miles this year with an 11-28 and a few hundred with a 12-30. I don't own an 11-30 10 sp, had a 9sp with that but whatever. One the one hand you seem to agree with me with your paragraph above the quote. Speeds below 22 miles an hour for me I do not need a big ring, your chart shows that nicely. Around 17 miles an hour I can move to the big ring. I've not found holes in what I have and can always seem to find the gear and cadence that fits how I feel and how fast I want to go.
__________________
Sir Mark, Knight of Sufferlandria
Sir Mark, Knight of Sufferlandria
#67
Have bike, will travel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,284
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 910 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
158 Posts
Triples are the most versatile. I use 50, 39 & 26 chainrings with a 12-27 ten speed cassette with a tighter 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 24, 27 cogset. The middle chainring does it all on flatter routes unless I'm enjoying a tailwind or I'm in a paceline. The large chainring is perfect for fast conditions, above 22 mph. The granny gear helps with steeper climbs, but is very rarely used.
Compact doubles require the use of both chainrings in the 15 to 20 mph speed range. I'd rather just shift across the cassette while riding on flat routes and then use the big or small chainrings when the riding becomes very fast or when the route is very steep.
I also use triples on my vintage bikes. I'll use 48, 36 and 26 chainings with a 13-24 freewheel.
Compact doubles require the use of both chainrings in the 15 to 20 mph speed range. I'd rather just shift across the cassette while riding on flat routes and then use the big or small chainrings when the riding becomes very fast or when the route is very steep.
I also use triples on my vintage bikes. I'll use 48, 36 and 26 chainings with a 13-24 freewheel.
I'm not using an 11-30 cassette to justify my opinion. I am using 5k miles this year with an 11-28 and a few hundred with a 12-30. I don't own an 11-30 10 sp, had a 9sp with that but whatever. One the one hand you seem to agree with me with your paragraph above the quote. Speeds below 22 miles an hour for me I do not need a big ring, your chart shows that nicely. Around 17 miles an hour I can move to the big ring. I've not found holes in what I have and can always seem to find the gear and cadence that fits how I feel and how fast I want to go.
Chances are that gravity is aiding your gearing. A 50 chainring works well if traveling downhill and even a 1% slope can make a difference for a heavier rider. A 34 chainring works well while climbing a moderate grade, although a 30 or 26 is clearly better up a truly steep grade. However, roads that stay in the plus or minus 2% range are much better on a 39 or 42 chainring if the cyclist likes to maintain a 15 to 24 mph speed range. One of my vintage bikes uses a 52, 42 and 30 chainset with a 12-21 cassette and the middle chainring is good up to 26 mph. That's a sweet ride;
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 09-29-14 at 11:54 AM.
#68
Old. Slow. Happy.
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
To muddy the waters further, there's this sub-compact crankset from Sugino:
It has 74mm and 110mm BCDs, and is compatible with Shimano external (road) BBs.
It has 74mm and 110mm BCDs, and is compatible with Shimano external (road) BBs.
#69
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 1,396
Bikes: 89 Paramount OS 84 Fuji Touring Series III New! 2013 Focus Izalco Ergoride
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 285 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 74 Times
in
54 Posts
I have an older triple with 50/45/28. I find the 50/45 gives plenty of options while cruising and the 28 is there when I need it (using 14-28 out back).
scott s.
.
scott s.
.
#70
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,433
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
To muddy the waters further, there's this sub-compact crankset from Sugino:
It has 74mm and 110mm BCDs, and is compatible with Shimano external (road) BBs.
It has 74mm and 110mm BCDs, and is compatible with Shimano external (road) BBs.
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SGV So Cal
Posts: 883
Bikes: 80's Schwinn High Plains, Motobecane Ti Cyclocross
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 108 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 30 Times
in
21 Posts
Interesting.
Is there some fundamental reason for not having the gap on the cassette.
It looks like a 34-48 coupled with a 12,13,14,15,16,17, 22, 25 28,32 would give you a one tooth increment all the way from about 13-28 mph, one shift on the front, with a very narrow cadence band from 80-85 rpm, and Skip the small ring with the small cog.
Would the 17-22 jump in the middle play havoc with the rear shifter?
Is there some fundamental reason for not having the gap on the cassette.
It looks like a 34-48 coupled with a 12,13,14,15,16,17, 22, 25 28,32 would give you a one tooth increment all the way from about 13-28 mph, one shift on the front, with a very narrow cadence band from 80-85 rpm, and Skip the small ring with the small cog.
Would the 17-22 jump in the middle play havoc with the rear shifter?
#72
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ellensburg,WA
Posts: 3,179
Bikes: Schwinn Broadway, Specialized Secteur Sport(crashed) Spec. Roubaix Sport, Spec. Crux
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 179 Post(s)
Liked 167 Times
in
83 Posts
I'm not using an 11-30 cassette to justify my opinion. I am using 5k miles this year with an 11-28 and a few hundred with a 12-30. I don't own an 11-30 10 sp, had a 9sp with that but whatever. One the one hand you seem to agree with me with your paragraph above the quote. Speeds below 22 miles an hour for me I do not need a big ring, your chart shows that nicely. Around 17 miles an hour I can move to the big ring. I've not found holes in what I have and can always seem to find the gear and cadence that fits how I feel and how fast I want to go.
Well, your revised opinion is correct, anyway. We both agree that a 50 & 34 compact requires changing the front chainrings in the common cruising speed range of 15 to 20 mph. A 39 chaining easily allows the cyclist to stay on one chainring and to just use the faster changes across the cassette until 24 mph or faster speeds are reached. Most 50+ recreational cyclist are infrequently reaching cruising speeds above 24 mph, where exceeded 20 mph happens with greater frequency.
Other than your reading comprehension and your mistaking my words we do somewhat agree. Can does not equal require and my opinion has not been revised. I think I confused you by talking about two different bikes both with double cranks, my road bike and my cx bike.
Chances are that gravity is aiding your gearing. A 50 chainring works well if traveling downhill and even a 1% slope can make a difference for a heavier rider. A 34 chainring works well while climbing a moderate grade, although a 30 or 26 is clearly better up a truly steep grade. However, roads that stay in the plus or minus 2% range are much better on a 39 or 42 chainring if the cyclist likes to maintain a 15 to 24 mph speed range. One of my vintage bikes uses a 52, 42 and 30 chainset with a 12-21 cassette and the middle chainring is good up to 26 mph. That's a sweet ride;
__________________
Sir Mark, Knight of Sufferlandria
Sir Mark, Knight of Sufferlandria
#73
Semper Fidelis
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,000
Bikes: Tiemeyer Road Bike & Ridley Domicles
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I'm 63 and here in Texas you don't have any hills per say, however where I live we have what I call rolling hills, landscape.
Both my bikes have a double
a. Ridley has sram 53/39 with a 11-25 cassette.
b. Tiemeyer has shimano 50/36, the smaller 36 ring is sram and shifts great with an 11-23 cassette.
I can ride and push all the gears with really no issue. However with the arthritis I have my preference has been leaning towards the 50/36 for more spinning and just seems to be more joint friendly.
Both my bikes have a double
a. Ridley has sram 53/39 with a 11-25 cassette.
b. Tiemeyer has shimano 50/36, the smaller 36 ring is sram and shifts great with an 11-23 cassette.
I can ride and push all the gears with really no issue. However with the arthritis I have my preference has been leaning towards the 50/36 for more spinning and just seems to be more joint friendly.
#74
Senior Member
My road bike is a 92 Paramount (7 speed downtube originally) which I refitted with a 50/34 compact and a 12-32 rear with an XT rear D/R. With 9 speed Ultegra it shifts flawlessly.
That's my solution to old knee, one of which is metal, and Texas hill country.
It's a simple thing to change rear cassette and rear D/r, and probably cheaper than a new crank.
Just sayin'......
That's my solution to old knee, one of which is metal, and Texas hill country.
It's a simple thing to change rear cassette and rear D/r, and probably cheaper than a new crank.
Just sayin'......
#75
Trek 500 Kid
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 2,562
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2904 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times
in
307 Posts
I'm not using an 11-30 cassette to justify my opinion. I am using 5k miles this year with an 11-28 and a few hundred with a 12-30. I don't own an 11-30 10 sp, had a 9sp with that but whatever. One the one hand you seem to agree with me with your paragraph above the quote. Speeds below 22 miles an hour for me I do not need a big ring, your chart shows that nicely. Around 17 miles an hour I can move to the big ring. I've not found holes in what I have and can always seem to find the gear and cadence that fits how I feel and how fast I want to go.
Well, your revised opinion is correct, anyway. We both agree that a 50 & 34 compact requires changing the front chainrings in the common cruising speed range of 15 to 20 mph. A 39 chaining easily allows the cyclist to stay on one chainring and to just use the faster changes across the cassette until 24 mph or faster speeds are reached. Most 50+ recreational cyclist are infrequently reaching cruising speeds above 24 mph, where exceeded 20 mph happens with greater frequency.
Chances are that gravity is aiding your gearing. A 50 chainring works well if traveling downhill and even a 1% slope can make a difference for a heavier rider. A 34 chainring works well while climbing a moderate grade, although a 30 or 26 is clearly better up a truly steep grade. However, roads that stay in the plus or minus 2% range are much better on a 39 or 42 chainring if the cyclist likes to maintain a 15 to 24 mph speed range. One of my vintage bikes uses a 52, 42 and 30 chainset with a 12-21 cassette and the middle chainring is good up to 26 mph. That's a sweet ride;
Chances are that gravity is aiding your gearing. A 50 chainring works well if traveling downhill and even a 1% slope can make a difference for a heavier rider. A 34 chainring works well while climbing a moderate grade, although a 30 or 26 is clearly better up a truly steep grade. However, roads that stay in the plus or minus 2% range are much better on a 39 or 42 chainring if the cyclist likes to maintain a 15 to 24 mph speed range. One of my vintage bikes uses a 52, 42 and 30 chainset with a 12-21 cassette and the middle chainring is good up to 26 mph. That's a sweet ride;