Shamejedi

Hi folks.

I'm just starting to shop for a bike after 18 years out of the saddle (not that I was an avid cyclist back then, but I used one in high school and college for tooling around the neighborhood). A couple of months ago I rented a Townie 21d so I could accompany my girlfriend (an avid cyclist) on a leg of the Mt. Vernon trail (paved, moderate hills). It was tough, and I thought my lungs would explode and my legs fall off, but I ended up loving it. I've decided it's time for me to plonk down the cash and start getting healthy again doing something that the woman I love wants very much to share with me. I'd greatly appreciate it if you could share your thoughts regarding models/sizes/gears.

Price range: $500-$600 for the bike, expecting to pay another $200 in accessories like rack, splash guards, etc.

Me: 6'1", 30" inseam, 350#

Posture: upright

Terrain/Distance: Mostly commuting to work at first (2 mi, moderate hills). Weekend rides of 10-15 miles mostly on paved trails with occasional gravel or smooth, unpaved trails. Ultimately (veeery long term goal), I'd like to be able to do around 40 miles a day on moderate hills. Not looking to set any land speed records.

My LBS is running a special on the Townie 7d, plus a great in-shop service policy, but people I've spoken with in person have suggested that I need more than 7 or 8 gears for this area if I'm going to do more than commute. I've been looking hard at the Townie 21d. If felt great when I rode it on the Mt. Vernon Trail.

I've also looked at various Trek models. I'm not sure if this matters, but the only Treks that have more than 8 gears are only 22.5". That seems a little small for me. I haven't had a chance to get on one yet, but I will. Is tire diameter the most important fit feature?

What other measurements should I look at?

What other models would you suggest I try out before I choose?

Thanks very much for your insight!

MRT2

Lots and lots of choices in this price range, though I wouldn't really suggest the Townie. Too much of a cruiser style, which is fine for shorter rides but might be limiting for rides of 15 miles or more. You may also want to up your budget a little. I know for newbies $500 for a bike and another $200 for accesories seems like a lot and it is. But $500 retail is pretty entry level for bikes, and especially so for a 350 Clydesdale as you may want to budget in the near future in a handbuilt 36 spoke count or higher back wheel. Budget $100 to $200 for a stronger wheel, though perhaps the stock wheel will hold for a few months.

Bikes in the $500 or range:
Trek FX 7.2, Giant Escape 2, Jamis Coda Sport, Specialized Sirrus,

If you stretch your budget (a little or a lot).
Kona Dew Plus, Kona Rove Al, Jamis Coda Comp, Trek FX 7.4, Giant AnyRoad, Giant Escape 1, Surly Ogre, Salsa Vaya, Specialized Diverge, Surly Cross Check.

Shamejedi

Thanks MRT2! Looking some of your $500-range suggestions, it looks like a lot of them would still require me to lean forward, even though I wouldn't be hunched. One thing I know from my rental fitting is that I do much better when I'm upright all the way--one of the things I liked about the Townie.

Am I not looking at those other models correctly? (For example, am I missing something in the specs that would show me how high the handlebars could be raised?)

Also, it will be some time before I can afford custom wheels. At my LBS, the saleswoman was pretty confident that I'd be better off with a wider tire (2" instead of 1.25"). I've looked at some of these entry-level rigs and haven't been able to figure out of they have models that have wider wheels. Any thoughts?

I appreciate your input and I'm not trying to gainsay it. I'm trying to balance it against what the lady at the shop told me. Thanks again!

Igualmente

So, a few of thoughts.

1) An upright bike (in the recreational or comfort category) will be fine for your commutes and even 10-15 mile rides as long as your speed goals are minimal. Once you look at much longer rides at higher speeds, you may find the bike position holding you back: the more upright you are, the more wind resistance you will have, the more your speed is limited. Personally, I wouldn't worry about that for now. I suspect going fast is a couple of years away. And at that point you may be a lighter or fitter or more flexible person and capable of a different bike geometry/style. On the other hand, you need to think about your goals (speed vs. comfort) both short and longer term because my view may not be yours.

2) You should consider asking on the Clydesdale/Athena forums for suggestions about bike and tires. I know nearly nothing about bikes capable of lasting while being ridden by heavier riders, but as an example, the Trek Shift 4 claims a rear wheel designed for 350 lbs riders, but the cheaper Shift models do not have the same wheel. So, again, ask around in the Clydesdale forum for suggestions.

3) As far as gears, I think having a triple chain ring up front (which will give you more than 7 gears, but more importantly should give you some easier hill gears) is a good idea for you. It will help you deal with hills.

4) Another note: some of the less expensive bikes might not provide the same handlebar adjustability that you might need. Using the Shift as an example (again), the cheaper models don't appear to have an adjustable stem, so for those make doubly sure you are happy with the handlebar position when you do a test ride.

5) Test ride any bike you are considering to make sure you are happy. You should be able to take it out on the roads for at least 15 minutes and try some hills (gearing) and be able to evaluate the position for at least 2 or 3 miles. This will tell you if it will do for your commute at least and will give you a good sense of how it will work for longer rides.

Lastly, when you do get a bike, enjoy.

MRT2

Wider tires? No, I do not agree with the saleswoman. Even at 350 lbs, a tire between 32 and 37 mm wide will be fine. People ride tandems with, and do loaded touring on tires of that width. At your weight, the main concern isn't the width of the tire, but the back wheel. 350 lbs is a lot of weight on the stock wheel and, unfortunately, stock wheels on most bikes are built to hold a person of average weight. It doesn't mean that you will taco the wheel the first week, but you might notice spokes breaking, or the wheel going out of true more than it should. I have never been 350 lbs, but I have been as high as 285, and have run into problems with back wheels on both new bikes I have bought in recent years. In one case, the shop rebuilt the wheel by hand because the spokes kept breaking. In the other case, I never popped a spoke but had to tensions the spokes very high and after 18 months of riding, the rim started cracking around the spoke holes. The only bike I never had a wheel problem with stock wheels was an old touring bike I bought used that had a 40 spoke back wheel.

RE: riding in a completely upright position, that will limit how far or how fast you can go. I understand that as you get back to riding, you need to feel comfortable. Any of these bikes can be modified to raise the handlebars, then lowered eventually when your fitness improves. You can do this by changing the stem, and maybe the handlebars. But if your goal is to do longish rides of longer than 15 miles and to ride at a pace other than very slow, you will eventually need to get used to leaning forward a little when you ride.

MRT2

But if you really want a bike with clearance for really wide tires, I would suggest the Giant Seek 3, or Kona Big Rove.

Shamejedi

Thanks for the feedback, Igualmente & MRT2. I'm widening my research and have learned much about geometry. I'm also going to expand my budget for the base bike to the low $700s. As both of you suggested, I'm seeing more flexibility in slightly more expensive models, like the adjustable stem so I can sit upright for now and then lower my position when I do get more aggressive (even if it's in 2 years).

Igualmente, you read me exactly right. For now, it's about getting back in the saddle. Comfort, paved trails, maybe some tight packed dirt, 10-15 miles at most.

Ideally, I'd like whatever I invest in now to be still useful in a couple of years when I am in better shape. I'm definitely adding the Trek Shift 4 to the short list to test ride, because it seems flexible in that regard. It has plenty of gears, the sturdy rear tire (thanks for that tip, gentlemen), good suspension from what I've read, and I can adjust the stem. Also, it comes standard with a pretty comfortable-looking gel saddle. Some of those "sport" saddles look...painful. (Side question: worth it to upgrade the seat post to one with suspension, or am I just being a wuss?)

I don't want to violate the spam policy, but I will also check over on the Clyde/Ath forum for some more input.

MRT2

Wheel, not tire. Any decent tire should hold your weight. What you want is a sturdy back wheel.

Saddles are personal. It is more about fit than padding. That said, soft squishy gel saddles are not necessarily more comfortable than something a little firmer. Stay away from suspension seatposts. At your weight, it will bottom out. Best just to harden up and get used to riding. I will also say this. I am not a fan of suspension forks on bikes made primarily for paved roads. YMMV.

Shamejedi

Thanks for the correction, MRT2. I'm still getting a handle on the lingo--I did mean wheel. A friend of mine who races mountain bikes and does his own refurbs agreed with you about the suspension seatpost, as did the fitter at the LBS.

I looked at a whooooole lotta bikes in the last few days or research. I kept coming back the the Trek Shift 4. No LBSs here had one in stock, but I had a chance to test ride the Trek Shift 2 yesterday. It's the same frame as the 4. Turns out I take an 18.5". It felt great--just as comfortable as the Townie I was originally looking at.

I went ahead and ordered it. Apparently, I got the very last 18.5" 2015 Shift 4 in Trek's inventory. I just have to wait a week or so now for it to ship cross country from California.

I'm not good at patience, though, and I want it NOW. So, I guess I'll just go ahead and start reading my copy of "Bike Your Butt Off" to pass the time.

HazeT

Welcome to cycling...
My suggestion would be look at craig's list for the models above, you can get at a discount price and save some money for the needed accessories.
My sugestions would be Cannondale Quick, Jamis Coda, Giant Escape, Trek FX... many option.
The rear wheel may give you some trouble after a couple hundred miles, you can then buy a cheap 36 spoke wheel and will outlast your weight

Some acessories I would recommend:
Water bottle+cage, a small saddle bag, frame pump, a spare tire, tire lever... except for them pump everything else fits in a small bag under the saddle, so if(when) you get a flat tire 10-20 miles away from home you can be on your way back in less than 10 minutes.
Also you might want to buy a padded cycling shoes, riding your bike on your cotton underwears can give you some nasty unpleasant rashes. I just rode 41 miles on my giant escape 2 hybrid... it's perfect doable.

Now advises, from someone who started riding when I was 292#.
Start slow, you will get tired really quick, improve it weekly. Don't give up, and understand that those calorie burn/mile calculators are waaaaaaaayyyy off.

Try to start riding like 5 miles round trip every other day of the week, then you start doing 7 and so forth until your body gets used to exercising.

As for speed, you should be able to do a 12mph average speed in no time, your 40 miles ride might be closer than you think. you can probably do it after a month or 2 if you are consistent with your rides.
Think like this
do 15 miles, have a coffee somewhere, enjoy the view, ride 15 back.... it's a little more than an hour each way

Have fun!