diddlydoo

Thanks so much. I appreciate all responses. It gives me something to consider. I guess I just thought I could order a bike and if too small could make alterations...i.e. lift the handlebar up, lower/higher the seat and that type thing. I didn't realize if I wanted to change the handlebars, I'd have to buy more parts. I asked the guy at Nashbar yesterday what a bar extension would cost. He quoted anywhere from 40.00 on up. That ain't cheap. Might be cheap for others here that are more into biking for hours and hours a day and competing but not for me. I also have to buy a kick stand and now something that holds my phone/music/water. What I had on old bike doesn't fit new one so lots of expenses that I hadn't considered.

All these sizes in mm and cm slow me down. I'm having to go to a conversion table to figure out what everything is in inches. I always thought bikes came in a child size and adult size for men and women. All this measuring this bar and that bar and tires and handlebars and seat and pedals and this and that is a bit overwhelming especially in meter sizes. A lot of time ya'll mention a part that is Greek to me so I spend a lot of time Googling. I probably should have just gone to Walmart or Dicks and bought one, but everyone said they are no good and pieces of junk. I guess my budget supported junk better. lol

When I have more time I will have to reread these responses, get out a conversion table, look at links and attempt to figure all this out. Right now I need to get in my workout.

Thanks so much again for the responses.

dksix, would that part in link you posted work on my bike? I could afford that especially with Ebay bucks and existing gift cards. How would I know what to order?

Astrozombie

Without getting a sideview i would say it is too small, but then again on some of my bikes my knees can get a bit close to the bars while turning them wide and it isn't that bad (since you rarely ever have to really steer that much on a bike) A longer stem could help.

What I'm more curious is how does the leg look from the side with the pedal at the bottom of the stroke and the seatpost maxed out. You may have to go a bit past the max point even though nobody will recommend it and say it's unsafe, you'll probably be alright......

Leisesturm

This!! I just canceled my latest post after I read this. I couldn't say it any better.

diddlydoo

Thanks for the responses. I do appreciate the input.

The bike is just too too small. I decided to give it one more try. I took it out on the paved bike trails and rode it about an hour and a half. I felt squinched the total trip. I kept wanting to stretch my arms and legs and I found myself many times putting my butt back on the seat as far as I could go. My legs when at down stroke on pedal were maybe 45 degrees and not 8 or 10 or however many they should be. I kept looking at other bikes going by and no one had their knees up on the handle bars like I did. I'm not even sure if extended out 2" would do the trick. I would just be happier with a bike more my size.

Near the end of the trail were a few guys getting ready to hit the trail. I figured since they were just preparing I'd ask their opinion and like myself, they totally agreed. The one guy said that bike is too teenie tiny for you....his words exactly. He showed me the riser on his bike and said he didn't think that would do the trick for me as the bike was too small period. He said my legs looked so cramped. Riding it, I felt like I was a grown-up on a kids bike...it's just too small and I've 100% decided I would prefer one that fit me better....a bigger bike. I just can't imagine a 17" being too big when this 15" is so small. Even bike shop guy said even though it has 15" on it, is looked to be a small 15" bike.

I called Nashbar customer service when I got home and asked what my options were. She said I could return, but I have to pay the shipping. If I exchanged it, they would pay the shipping of the new bike. So that is out of the question. Probably 50.00 for bike shop to tear it back down, 50.00 probably to ship it to Nashbar, 50.00 lost on putting it together and another 50.00 to put new one together. That's 200.00 just to exchange and get the new one. It would be crazy for me to do anything but sell it.

So I'm going to find a nice place to put it in the house and not ride it anymore. It may be months before I'm back out riding again.

Besides Craigslist and Ebay, anyone know any good ways to sell the bike?

MRT2

That is too bad. There are always bike swaps. You are probably looking at selling at a loss as it makes no sense for a person to buy a second hand bike for the same money they could buy it new. But it is professionally assembled and almost new, which is why you should get $150 or so for it. Maybe $200 if you find the right buyer.

I already said my piece about the risks and hidden costs of buying online. ESPECIALLY for your first real quality bike, it is important to have the support of a local bike shop. It is true a similar bike at a bike shop would cost around $400 to $500, but if the bike didn't fit, they would have to absorb the cost of the mistake, or make it fit, and you would already have a chance to exchange for the next size up at no further cost to yourself.

black_box 

In your first picture above, your right foot is flat on the ground. Is your butt on the saddle in that picture? if so, you should probably raise your seat post. Because of the angle of the seat tube, extending the seat post will push the saddle further away from the handlebars. Also, there should be a way to slide the saddle back from it's mounted position on the seat post (generally this is adjusted based on your leg's reach to the pedals, not to adjust your reach to the handlebars).

When raising the seat post, just be sure you don't extend it past the minimum insertion point. There should be a line or mark towards the lower portion of the post that indicates that point.

I'm 5'6" and ride a 15" mountain bike. Your bike may just need some tweaking.

Leisesturm

I was looking at a model of sloping top tube hybrid and the md (15") fit adults 5'2" to 6' and the large (18") fit adults 5'6" to 6'3". These bikes are practically one size fits all and it simply isn't the case that changing from one frame size to the other will solve the problem. If the o.p. is that unhappy with the 15" Nashbar, she needs to sell it and buy another brand of bike. The 17" is going to be just as uncomfortable. There is probably as little as 2cm difference in any relevant dimension between the 15" and the 17".

diddlydoo

lol. No way this bike would be a good fit for anyone 6' unless they were riding it as a clown in a circus. This is a small 15" bike.

Leisesturm

I went on the Nashbar site and saw your bike. I noticed that it also comes in a 19". Why do you think the 17" will do the trick. If the 15" is as ridiculously small as you insist why do you think a small increase in ETT length will make much difference? The reason why hybrids and Mountain bikes can have three sizes of frame where road bikes need six is because the rider sits so much more upright on the flat-bar bikes that the main difference between two riders will be seat height. This can easily be accomodated by an increase in seat post. I was looking at my SO and her mother standing side by side. My SO towers over her mother. Like a full head taller. But their legs are the exact same length! When your torso and arms are very long you will need more ETT (effective top tube length) than a more traditionally built woman with a very short torso. You bought a women's specific model of bike and these will have a shorter ETT than normal for a mens or unisex frame.

diddlydoo

I don't know that 17" will do the trick. Before buying another bike I was going to do more research and call and talk to Nashbar more in depth and shop around more at other bike places. Sure, 17" can't be worse. I didn't see a size larger than 17" listed on my bike page. Where did you see that on the women's bike size 19"?

Believe me, after ordering a bike online that is too small, I plan to make a better decision in my next bike purchase and do plenty of research but thanks for your suggestions and help and input.

I have a girl coming over this afternoon to look at my bike so hope she takes it. But you never know how Craigslist people are if they even show up.

diddlydoo

Well I finally sold the bike today. Sold it from Craigslist. The guy knows bikes and said it was really nice. His wife came and took it for a spin and it fit her perfectly. After all said and done I only took a $15.00 loss even factoring in the price I paid to have it assembled. I consider myself lucky that I didnt' have to take much of a loss at all.

Now on to find another bike. I miss riding.

diddlydoo

I am looking for another bike and I keep going back to the one I just sold on Cragislist. I really did like the way it rode. It was smooth and I liked the easy smooth gear changes.

I give up on Craigslist or I'd go the whole summer with no bike waiting for something to pop up there.

The guy that bought my 15" Nashbar bike is an avid biker and he bought my bike for his wife. It fit her perfectly. He felt the bike was very nice.

I really like the style of the flat bar road bike...not a fan of the curved handlebars so I'm very limited in selections. I was looking at the bikesdirect Dawes Wendy bike also. It's a flat bar road bike.

Save Up to 60% Off Womens Hybrid City Bikes - Dawes Wendy Women Specific Flat Bar, Hybrid Road Bikes

Or maybe this one:

Save up to 60% off new Comfort Bikes - Dawes Eclipse 1.0

Size description on their website:

most riders 4'10" to 5'5" - choose the 15"
most riders 5'4" to 5'10" - choose the 17"

I wish there were some reviews on each but nothing. Anyone have an opinion on either of these? Heavy bikes? Good for 20 mile rides on bike paths? Better than Walmart/Target bikes?


Also I did a chat with Nashbar and asked how much bigger the 17 than the 15".

Part of our chat (I told her I was 5'6":

Given your height I would recommend the 17" bike. The reach, or the distance from the saddle to the handle bars will be about 2 cm longer which might not sound like a lot but even a few MM makes a huge difference.
You: 2:13:10 PM
I do know when I sat on the 15", my knees practically came to the handlebars when pedaling.
Jill: 2:14:41 PM
The seat tube on the 17" bike will be longer which will prevent your knees from hitting the handlebars.

I feel pretty safe that the 17" would fit but wondering about the bikes direct bikes also.

Any comments or reviews of the bikesdirect bikes? I can't find any reviews at all online.

Thanks.

Phil_gretz

Really. I could fit you on that bike in two sessions requiring total about one hour. First to determine where the final settings need to be, and second to fit you to the bike with the newly installed replacement parts. What was your bike shop doing? They shouldn't have let you leave the store with an ill-fitting bike. I'd have been all over that to get it right. Holy smokes!I could also fit you on the 17", because you are likely between sizes. We've yet to see you with the bike in a trainer and you on it, side view, so that we can judge where the problem is. Knee to handlebar doesn't tell the complete story.Phil

james_v

She did not buy the bike from a shop. Only had it assembled there.

Phil_gretz

So what? Did a robot give her the assembled bike?

Leisesturm

The seat tube length on either bike is irrelevant as to your fit. My wife is also 5'6". We just bought a tandem and the seattube of her compartment is 14.5". The seattube on the tandem we already have is 16". On both bikes the seat is set to be 25.5" above the bottom bracket center. There is thus more seat tube extended on the smaller bike, not a problem there is plenty left! Both bikes allow the handlebar to be moved closer or further away to determine how far forward she has to reach. On your Nashbar that is the only adjustment that could not easily be changed. But it could have been changed. I suspect you sit way too low in order to be close to the ground. This bends your knees acutely and brings them close to the handlebar. I don't know this for sure which is why you need to buy your bike from somewhere local. They won't be impressed by being asked to assemble a bike you've bought online. They'll do it, but let them actually sell you a bike and they'll do a whole lot more.

diddlydood

Thanks. I had to change my username because this site keeps locking me out and not allowing me to login using current username.

I appreciate your response. Being in the middle of sizes was my issue. I just should have gone up in size instead of ordering the smaller bike.

I have already looked at local bike shops in my area and the bikes are expensive. I'm not spending over $500 on a bike which is why I ordered online hoping to get a little better than going the Walmart route.

Bike is 25% off today only so might go ahead and order. If the 17" is larger, then it should work and if it doesn't by assembly, I'll do the adjustments on that one.

I do think the bike shop guy would have offered more help with sizing had he not been so busy when I was there. He was alone and phone ringing off the hook and people in the shop. No excuse but still he was busy.

fietsbob

French scheme: 700 has an A, B, C. c rim diameter out side = 634mm.. 24.96"
Ref: Sutherlands... Then + is width thus height of tire.

But tire bead , so tire bead seat D of rim is 622mm (+ the bead retaining hook inside the edge)

noglider 

I suspect this explanation is more likely to confuse than to inform.

But it is a hard topic to understand, because for over a century, many sizing systems have been used to describe tire sizes.

700c is the 'C' series in the 700 range, which makes little sense. Just take it as it is: 700c is a size. The 'c' is not a unit of measurement. Some people say 700cc which is entirely incorrect. Some tires are marked 700x28c as if 28c is the width, and some people say, "I need a 28c tire," or "I prefer a 32c tire," as if c is the tire width in millimeters; it isn't. Tires marked that way should be marked 700c x 28mm. But they're not. Oy!

The common sizes for adult bikes are 26x1.75, 26x1-3/8, 700c, and 27". There are tires called 29ers and oddly enough, their diameter is exactly the same as 700c. Oh, not only that, some European countries refer to 700c as 28". That's confusing because 700c is slightly smaller than 27".

This is not a complete list at all. A complete explanation is here.

Note that while 1.75 and 1-3/4 are exactly the same arithmetically, it matters a lot whether a tire's size is expressed as a decimal or a fraction. The stupid reason for that is that these sizes imply a particular diameter. So if your tire is marked 27x1-1/4, do not say 27x1.25.

Leisesturm

So I happen to have all three sizes of wheel in my stable, so I just got out the tape measure and went downstairs --

26" wheel with Bontrager 2.0" comfort tire. Total Diameter: 26.75"

700C wheel with Schwalbe Marathon 28mm tire. Total Diameter: 27.5"

27" wheel with Continental 27 x 1-1/8" racing tire. Total Diameter: 27.0"

noglider 

This shows that overall diameter is not a good way to specify a wheel or tire. That is why the standards organizations changed to specifying bead seat diameter (BSD). Unfortunately, we're stuck using the old terms, for the most part.