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  1. #1
    Senior Member ndredsox's Avatar
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    Temporary fit while on waiting for Retul, would love your opinions.

    Wanted to get your opinions on my current fit from reading here and browsing youtube. I purchased a 64cm bike off of Craigslist and it was way too big as I am 6'3" 250lbs., but I made it work for a while(shorter stem/seat adjustments). As I am increasing my distances and speed, I wanted to head to the LBS and pick out a decent entry level bike that FIT. They threw me on a wood contraption and measured me, which resulted in a recommendation of 59cm. I test rode the Trek 2.1 in a 58cm and 60cm and the 60cm felt awesome, so I went with it. The first ride on it was 22miles and it felt great! I just want to make sure that I have this setup the best way possible since my fitting with the Retul guy isn't until the middle of August. I figure with that being a month away, I can't just sit and wait.....but don't want to be in poor form in the meantime.

    Here is the stock Trek 2.1. I threw on a Racelite 100mm stem from my older bike, leveled the seat with a level, and threw on some Gel Fizik tape. Do the drop bars appear to be in the right position?
    IMG_0150.jpg

    Using a makeshift plum-bob, it appears as the seat height is correct.
    IMG_0174.jpg

    In the hoods....I was watching a YT video on the Dynamic Fit System and it appears that I need more bend in my arms. Lower the bars? Flip? or Just right?
    IMG_0161.jpg

    Same thing, but in the drops. Seems a little too upright to me, but I am a total n00b.
    IMG_0165.jpg

    This is a few minutes of video that I shot with my iPhone in super slow-mo and then slowed it down even more in iMovie. I run through the three positions and would appreciate any feedback on this.


    Thanks so much in advance!
    Jason

  2. #2
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    1. The bars. They could be rotated down a touch if you so desired. That would be my preference. But, bar rotation, lever and hood location are highly personal.

    2. The plumb bob gives you saddle fore/aft information after height has been set. For setting saddle height I would normally look at knee and hip angle while at bottom dead center. A lot of people don't really assign much signifigance to knee over pedal spindle anymore. It's more of a starting point and tool for approximately fit from one bike to the next.

    However, unless it's an odd camera angle, it appears as though your cleats are well aft on your shoes. While I run my cleats full aft, I don't think they're that far back.

    3 & 4. With regard to bend in the elbows and height. Try rotating your pelvis forward or bending at your waist and simultaneously bending your elbows a bit. How low you can go is usually limited by your flexibility and core strenght, not the height of the bars. It's somewhat currently in fashion for guys to run their bars exceptionally low and ride with nearly locked elbows. But, if you look at historic photos, the pro's of years gone by used to achieve just as low a position by simply bending their elbows. Thus, maintaining some suspension in their position instead of having straight pegs down to low bars.
    Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.

  3. #3
    Senior Member ndredsox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
    However, unless it's an odd camera angle, it appears as though your cleats are well aft on your shoes. While I run my cleats full aft, I don't think they're that far back.
    Do you mean the way the cleat is position on the bottom of the shoe?

    3 & 4. With regard to bend in the elbows and height. Try rotating your pelvis forward or bending at your waist and simultaneously bending your elbows a bit. How low you can go is usually limited by your flexibility and core strenght, not the height of the bars. It's somewhat currently in fashion for guys to run their bars exceptionally low and ride with nearly locked elbows. But, if you look at historic photos, the pro's of years gone by used to achieve just as low a position by simply bending their elbows. Thus, maintaining some suspension in their position instead of having straight pegs down to low bars.
    Would you say this appears to be in the "norm" for a setup? I think the dropped look is cool, but not at the expense of my comfort.
    Thank you for taking time to comment!

  4. #4
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    Do you mean the way the cleat is position on the bottom of the shoe?

    Yes. The further aft the cleat is mounted on your shoe the lower the load supported by your calf. Which generally extends one's duration but at the expense of cadence. Further forward, the calf does more work, but, there's more mobility to your ankle, so you can spin faster/easier.

    Would you say this appears to be in the "norm" for a setup? I think the dropped look is cool, but not at the expense of my comfort.

    That's pretty hard to answer without you filling out a questinaire about your current condition, riding experience, expectations and examining your flexibility. All the things a pro fit covers. Your current set up is on the high side of normal, but, not alarmingly so. If I were to recommend one change, it would be to rotate the bars down some. Currently when you're in the drops the brake levers appear to be a reach up for. To solve that you could either rotate the bars, or if you're happy with the orientation of the bars, unwrap them down to the levers, reposition the levers a bit lower and replace the wrap.

    It appears in the photos that your levers are very close to level with your saddle. That would be a reasonably upright position. But, not one that you would use for racing. It's hard to say for sure without seeing the rest of you in the photos. But, it's not dissimiliar to the position my wife uses for casual fitness riding and the occassional group ride or event. It should be a reasonably comfortable fit and I for one wish that shops would lean toward getting new riders comfortable so they enjoy their riding and continue, rather than trying to slam them for speed they're never going to achieve because they're uncomfortable and choose not to continue with the sport.
    Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.

  5. #5
    Senior Member ndredsox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
    Do you mean the way the cleat is position on the bottom of the shoe?

    Yes. The further aft the cleat is mounted on your shoe the lower the load supported by your calf. Which generally extends one's duration but at the expense of cadence. Further forward, the calf does more work, but, there's more mobility to your ankle, so you can spin faster/easier.

    Would you say this appears to be in the "norm" for a setup? I think the dropped look is cool, but not at the expense of my comfort.

    That's pretty hard to answer without you filling out a questinaire about your current condition, riding experience, expectations and examining your flexibility. All the things a pro fit covers. Your current set up is on the high side of normal, but, not alarmingly so. If I were to recommend one change, it would be to rotate the bars down some. Currently when you're in the drops the brake levers appear to be a reach up for. To solve that you could either rotate the bars, or if you're happy with the orientation of the bars, unwrap them down to the levers, reposition the levers a bit lower and replace the wrap.

    It appears in the photos that your levers are very close to level with your saddle. That would be a reasonably upright position. But, not one that you would use for racing. It's hard to say for sure without seeing the rest of you in the photos. But, it's not dissimiliar to the position my wife uses for casual fitness riding and the occassional group ride or event. It should be a reasonably comfortable fit and I for one wish that shops would lean toward getting new riders comfortable so they enjoy their riding and continue, rather than trying to slam them for speed they're never going to achieve because they're uncomfortable and choose not to continue with the sport.
    A wealth of information you have thrown at me and I thank you for that sir.

  6. #6
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    If you want a more aero position, I think there's room for you to comfortably stretch out and get lower with a longer stem with either lower rise or less stack height.
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

  7. #7
    Senior Member ndredsox's Avatar
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    I flipped my stem and have 2 rides under my belt. A 10mile hilly course and a 23 flat(for the most part) course and i am leaning over more, but it feels descent. I will keep this setup for the 50 miler this weekend and report back.

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