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  1. #1
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    long legs and cursory fitting by the LBS = trouble

    Hi everyone,
    I need some advice on making sure I have the right frame size. I have a new Fuji Cross 3.0. I bought it at my local Performance shop, where the "fitting" consists of: "straddle it. Is it touching your 'boys'? No, lift it up a bit. Now? OK, that should work." I did my best to figure out my size and standover clearance, since that's the one measure I can figure out.
    I am 5'10", with long legs, 33.5" inseam on the highly scientific "book between the legs" measure. I went with the 54cm. So, the clearance on standover right now is about 2.5". That's higher than the usual recommendation for road bikes, but figured I should have a touch more for a cyclocross bike (I am NOT racing it, but I go on unpaved or poorly paved trails a lot). Also, Fuji says to have 'at least 2" for road, 3" for unpaved, 4" for mountain' - maybe their geometries need more clearance? Other measures: on lowest crank position my leg is straight, but the heel is firmly planted in the pedal. Standing in the saddle to achieve that allows me to touch ground standing on my toes only. Still dialing everything else in, but so far I feel the need to have the saddle all the way back. Hard to tell though, since I'm getting used to aero bars for the first time ever.
    So, based on the above, should I exchange it for a 56cm, or did I hit this right? Any experience with the clearance and extension for this type of riding, only on trails, no off-roading, but occasional rough asphalt, gravel etc.? Or even specifically for these Fuji bikes?
    Thank you!
    PS if any tech-minded person wants details, this is the bike: http://archive.fujibikes.com/archive...me=Cross%203.0

  2. #2
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    Hi,

    Next size size up IMO. Especially if the bars feel a little narrow.

    rgds, sreten.

  3. #3
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
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    +1 go with the 56. If you were to lose control, it's not like the bike is going to be perpendicular when you're tipping. SOH is overrated, comfort while riding is where it's at.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2014 Additions: 1985 Trek 560, 1992 Trek Multitrack 700 (my 2nd), 1994 Trek Carbon 2200, Peugeot PX-10, 1981 Schwinn Voyager, 1989 Bridgestone RB-1

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys. Is the Fuji recommendation for the SOH just legal defensive approach then? It's funny, using the competitivecyclist.com fit calculator, it seems that the top tube for the 54 is exactly what I need, the seat tube is a bit short. In terms of judging the comfort, neither frame seemed terrible, this one certainly seems nice, but my comparison is to my previous ride, a steel, solid, single speed mountain bike, probably poorly fitted. So in comparison, this would feel comfortable even if it had nails coming out of the saddle..... So I think it would take a long time and a lot of riding to figure out if there is a serious problem.
    I can exchange it, I think, but if it's a very subtle difference I wouldn't go through the hassle. If I can expect issues in the future though, I'll do it of course.

  5. #5
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    Hi,

    The right size is best, a little too small is a lot better than a little too big.

    Stand over is ~ and long torso/ short legs it needs to be lower than most,
    short torso / long legs it should be higher than most, regarding fit to
    average sized frames for the average person for decent bikes.

    I'd say 1" road bike, 2" Hybrid, 3" MTB.

    But saddle all the way back sounds too small, and
    if bars 1cm wider each side appeal, your choice.

    rgds, sreten.

    Saddle all the way back is an issue ....

  6. #6
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    Shout out to Performance on this one. They may not have the professional high level personalized fitting and individual customer care, but they immediately took a 56 bike off the rack, let me try it out, and are doing the exchange as we speak without as much as batting an eye. Picking it up tomorrow. So, they do have something going for them, and combined with good deals and the nice staff, they're definitely keeping me as a customer...
    It does feel a little more "natural", although it's the smallest amount of crotchular clearance I have ever had on a bike (remember, hybrid then mountain bike rider prior to this), but I will have to get used to that. Thanks for all the input everyone!

  7. #7
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    Quick follow-up: so, on the new bike, to be able to get my toes on the ground, I need to set the saddle noticeably lower than the handlebar. That doesn't seem right! Is it as simple as shortening the head tube a ring or two? (all three of them are in place now). If I do that, do I need to adjust the cable lengths? Thanks again

  8. #8
    Ding! Bandera's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocdoc View Post
    on the new bike, to be able to get my toes on the ground, I need to set the saddle noticeably lower than the handlebar. That doesn't seem right!
    It's not.
    "Toes on the ground" is not an element of any Fit System that I an aware of, and certainly not how to set off or stop.

    Take into consideration that you have a cyclo cross bike, it is not designed for the same relationships of saddle/stem/drop as a road bike.
    Have your LBS set the seat height for you and ride it, a lot. Adaptation to a new activity and machine takes miles & time.
    Keep an open dialogue w/ your shop and adjust as necessary after a good long while.

    -Bandera
    Last edited by Bandera; 07-23-13 at 11:09 AM.
    '74 Raleigh International - '77 Trek TX900FG - '92 Vitus 979 - '10 Merckx EMX-3- '11 Soma Stanyan

  9. #9
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    Hi,

    For the right saddle height you cannot touch the ground,

    rgds, sreten.

  10. #10
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    The manager at Performance is actually going to do a fitting for me. Apparently he offers this, but no one in the store bothered to mention it... I can easily lift the seat up, and I asked them to flip the stem for me as well. That should really take care of it, but then I will do the proper fit with him in the store. I may ride properly yet
    Thank you guys for all your input, much appreciated.

  11. #11
    Senior Member GeneO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocdoc View Post
    Quick follow-up: so, on the new bike, to be able to get my toes on the ground, I need to set the saddle noticeably lower than the handlebar. That doesn't seem right! Is it as simple as shortening the head tube a ring or two? (all three of them are in place now). If I do that, do I need to adjust the cable lengths? Thanks again
    If I were you I would have gone with the 54cm to fit the top tube for your body. If your bike is too small for your reach, then you may feel cramped. If you had more stand-over than usual that is no big deal - I am the opposite with short legs and long torso and have a hard time finding a cross bike that isn't too small that gives me any standover.

    The head tube for the larger bike is longer so the bars are higher relative to the ground than the smaller sized frame. But the bottom bracket stays the same height off the ground and so you adjust your saddle so it is the same height above the ground as on the smaller sized bike. The end result is the bars are relatively higher with respect to the seat on the larger frame.
    2012 Felt F55X

  12. #12
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    Thanks, that makes perfect sense. However, I am learning that I was a totally clueless noob… The top tube length on the 56 actually IS my correct size. And… my saddle needs to be a LOT higher from the ground than I initially thought. So, all in all this fits better! I got the new, larger size, didn't have the fitting yet, but riding it around seems very nice. It feels a little more stable too (and the toe overlap is gone, btw). I am reaching a bit, but now the saddle is somewhat back, so on the next ride I will push the saddle forward significantly - I have a lot of room to go. I will also keep raising the seat incrementally. I think I will end up just a bit higher than the handlebar tops when all is said and done. They also flipped the stem, at my request, and voila, the bars are where I wanted them.
    I am usually very skeptical of the online guides and charts, and I'm sure they never supplant an actual fitting, but the one on competitivecyclist.com seems to have been right on for me - including the recommendation to flip the stem!

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