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  1. #1
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    Do i need to be more upright or stretched out? (pics)

    no aches or pains but i feel like im reaching for the handlebars, should i play around with my saddle position or do i need to move my handlebars? or should i just leave all as is? any advice would be appreciated. im 6'2 240lbs on a large frame cannondale bad boy





    Last edited by anthonybkny; 10-18-13 at 01:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member rumrunn6's Avatar
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    I think your back is too curved. I think you should try to have a straight back. it may feel like you are sticking your butt out but try sticking your butt out.

    have to determined that the bike is the right size for you?
    cycling is like baseball ~ it doesn't take much to make it interesting

  3. #3
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
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    +1 on the humped back making it harder to reach the bars.
    Quote Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
    There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Thermionic, how do you sit on your rando bike? If that one has a successful fitting for 200k's, it's probably a good starting point for this straight-bar bike.

    Sorry if you've already shown it and I didn't notice ...

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the input guys. Perhaps I need to move my saddle back to elongate my spine?

  6. #6
    Senior Member longbeachgary's Avatar
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    Make sure your elbows aren't locked. The photo gives the illusion that you are stiff armed.

  7. #7
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    no pains? don;t mess with it.
    if you try to reduce the reach you'll end with more weight on the saddle, which usually is not a good thing.
    the very upright hip/curved back is a function of your torso size. As you lose the weight, you'll be able to rotate the hips forward more and more.
    And the reach will get 'shorter', to a point where it might even feel 'short'.
    Right now, if you're not feeling any specific pains, your torso is balanced in the current 'position'. Part of that is the upright hip angle/torso, which takes a lot of weight off the hands. Reduce the reach and you'll end with more weight on the hands. If the stretch doesn't bother you, keep it.
    stay with it if it isn't broke
    work on reducing the torso mass, especially around the hips and waist, and all will progress well.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member daihard's Avatar
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    I may be wrong, but it looks to me as though the bike is a bit too small for you. How tall are you? What is your inseam? The size of the bike?
    Badly-behaved cyclists are usually just cyclists with inadequate infrastructure. Or none at all. - Mikael Colville-Andersen

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by daihard View Post
    I may be wrong, but it looks to me as though the bike is a bit too small for you. How tall are you? What is your inseam? The size of the bike?
    6'2 34 inch inseam large frame. Xl frame had no stand over clearance

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbeachgary View Post
    Make sure your elbows aren't locked. The photo gives the illusion that you are stiff armed.
    very slightly bent

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    I think moving the bars up and out would help you stop hunching your back and eliminate that reaching sensation it's causing.

    Grab a riser handlebar and stem of the same rise but 10mm longer. It looks like you may have a +6 rise stem of 100mm length, so maybe even a 110mm length with up to +10 rise would work.

    In fact, start there with just the longer stem of slightly higher rise, and keep the same bar; cheap and easy to do. If it then feels like you're on the right track, you could go with the riser bar on that same stem, and if it feels too high or far, you could go with a riser bar on the stock stem.

    However you get it, I think a little more rise and run at the bar is the ticket.
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

  12. #12
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
    Thermionic, how do you sit on your rando bike? If that one has a successful fitting for 200k's, it's probably a good starting point for this straight-bar bike.

    Sorry if you've already shown it and I didn't notice ...
    I haven't gotten a picture taken of me on the bike yet, and really need to. It's set up with about 1.5" of saddle-to-bar drop, so that I can ride in the drops with a flat back at 45 degrees or so.
    Quote Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
    There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
    RUSA #7498

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    I would say bike size is fine but your posture on the bike is not but If you are comfortable on longer rides, leave everything alone. But but you straighten and elongate your spine, you will look better and may be more comfortable. Also, with your back bent over as shown in the pic, your chest is compressed which makes breathing more difficult.

  14. #14
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    Seat position isn't moved to affect reach to bar, it's moved to put your legs in proper position for pedaling. If you need to change reach to the bar you need to swap out the stem and steerer spacers.

  15. #15
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    Adjust the bars

    I am basing my suggestions on the enhancement below.

    Even if you're not currently feeling pain, that posture id very bad for your spine long term. You'll want to get to a place where you are bending from your hips much more, elongating your spine.

    I suggest that you raise tour bars are at least 2". However, raising them that much would bring them almost an inch closer to you. You would benefit from the opposite, so I suggest a much longer stem.

    But these changes are big enough (and expensive enough) that I suggest that you seek local help.

    FWIW, your seat adjustment looks about right to me.

    Bob

    bb.jpg

  16. #16
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    thanks for the suggestions all, i appreciate all of your input.
    ive been experimenting the past week. ive slammed the bars, dropped my saddle a touch and moved it back. i feel more stretched out and feel like theres a bit more weight on the front wheel, were as before i felt as if there was way too much towards the rear. feeling more balanced now and my back is straighter. definetly way more aggressive but its been comfortable for my commutes and longish rides (40+ miles). we'll see how it goes over the next few weeks
    Last edited by anthonybkny; 11-04-13 at 08:40 AM.

  17. #17
    Senior Member rumrunn6's Avatar
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    don't forget to stick your butt out - at least mentally
    cycling is like baseball ~ it doesn't take much to make it interesting

  18. #18
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumrunn6 View Post
    don't forget to stick your butt out - at least mentally
    since you posted it, ive been reminding myself that. and its really helped

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by anthonybkny View Post
    thanks for the suggestions all, i appreciate all of your input.
    ive been experimenting the past week. ive slammed the bars, dropped my saddle a touch and moved it back. i feel more stretched out and feel like theres a bit more weight on the front wheel, were as before i felt as if there was way too much towards the rear. feeling more balanced now and my back is straighter. definetly way more aggressive but its been comfortable for my commutes and longish rides (40+ miles). we'll see how it goes over the next few weeks
    Hmm, I'm surprised that worked, but am glad you like it! Do you have an after pic?
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

  20. #20
    Junior Member GeorgeLeslie's Avatar
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    I can't tell from the photo where your pedals are horizontal, but I suggest you perform this test.
    roll over to a wall or fence where you can sit on the bike without moving (if you don't have a trainer, that is)
    Sit on the bike as you usually do.
    Place the ball or your foot on the pedal.
    Rotate pedals to 3:00 and 9:00 (that is horizontal).
    Drop a plum line (a weighted string) from the front of your knee cap.

    You should notice the plumb line touch the pedal spindle. If your knees are forward or aft of this line, adjust saddle forward or back accordingly.

    Or visit a quality bike shop and have a basic bike fitting. Think of it this way. How many hours will you spend on the bike in that position? Invest a little money in getting an efficient prosition for sustainable effort. You will be glad you did.

    - Just my suggestion.
    It makes perfect sense, If you don't think about it......

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