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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Help! Need a rear wheel that can take 130kg

    I started commuting three months ago in order to lose weight. So far I've come down from about 145kg to 127kg, but not without several problems with my rear wheel. My height is 5ft 7in.

    I ride just over 10 miles a day, 5 days a week, on average quality roads in the UK. I have a Giant City Escape 3 (from that shop). The shop told me that it should be adequate for my needs. Since I bought the bike I have had broken 2 axles, so the shop advised me that a cassette-type hub would be stronger and help to prevent the problem. After replacing the hub in December I have not had a broken axle (yet!), but I have noticed that the wheel was not running true, so I they replaced the wheel free of charge today. On my way home tonight I noticed that the wheel has started to wobble again, possibly even worse than it was before. I am a careful rider (since the axle breakages, I've been extremely vigilant for potholes and bumps, and I have never jumped any kerbs), but obviously one or more of the components is not suitable for my weight. The other option is that the workmanship was poor, but I don't believe that as I know three other people who haven't had any problems with repairs at this shop.

    Could anyone advise me about the type of wheel/hub (or other components) that I should be investing in to support my weight? I really need to buy something that is going to last me until I get down to a 'normal' weight, because I really can't afford to keep replacing parts every month. I'd be really grateful for any help because I'm starting to feel like it's not worth the effort!

    Thanks,
    Adam

  2. #2
    Senior Member Null66's Avatar
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    I'm running a set of Phil Wood 48sp tandem disc hubs Velocity Chunker rims and 48mm Marathons. I call them "the wheels for the apocalypse".

    I was 285 and typically have a 30-ish pound pack.
    So total gross vehicle weight 350 lb, much more for a touring load.

    I've been commuting 1 day a week at 50 rt, but most of my mileage is ride out and back... so if I broke down at the worst possible time I'm looking at a 30+ mile walk home in bike shoes.

    I've been air born a couple times, mostly due to my foolishness.

    Wheels are dead true, no spoke issues in 1500 miles!

    They were not cheap! But they are SO smooth! And I never worry they will break under me...

  3. #3
    Senior Member chriskmurray's Avatar
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    The wheels Null posted above are certainly wheels capable of surviving the apocalypse but IMHO overbuilt which is fine if that is what you want but gets very expensive very quickly any time you go above 36 hole hubs.

    I think you would be just fine with something like a 36 hole Velocity Dyad, or if you are trying to keep it cheap Sun Rhynolite laced to your hub of choice (shimano are great bang for the buck) with DT Alpine spokes. I am a big fan of the Alpine spoke for heavy loads, it is 2.3mm at the head where spokes commonly break, tapers down to 1.8mm which is gives it a slight bit of elasticity which is easier on rims and back up to 2mm at the thread.

  4. #4
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    I agree with chriskmurray, but would add that the Velocity Blunt rim would also be a cool choice for the wider width and provide very affirmative handling with any tire, but especially the wider width tires I'd recommend for you (32+). That, and they come in trick colors!

    There's also a Clydesdale/Athena forum here where you can find more heavier-rider specific suggestions.
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

  5. #5
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    Did they sell you and install a new 32 hole hub, or an entire wheel? What brand and model?

    A good 32 spoke wheel should be capable of carrying your weight.

    The critical aspects will be realatively high, evenly distributed spoke tension and a rim capable of supporting that.
    Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.

  6. #6
    Catching Smallmouth BradH's Avatar
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    It sounds like your wheels come out of true after each "new" build. I am no expert, but I have built a half dozen wheels for myself. They all run true. When you first stress a newly built rim it may need a touch up truing. I squeeze the spokes pretty hard a number of times while building and I honestly haven't had to do much touch up but I can see where it would not be unusual to do so. First they replaced the hub on an already built wheel, which for all practical purposes, is a new build. Second, they replaced the rim, more or less another new build. There is probably nothing wrong with your rear wheel other than it needs to be trued again.

    You might ask in the Clyde or mechanic forums for better answers.
    Last edited by BradH; 02-04-14 at 08:49 PM. Reason: other forums
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