Well, the adventure continues. I removed the 130mm stem and 4" Delta stem extender. They made the steering slower and the bike feel "wallowy." I also couldn't get past how disproportionate it made the bike look.
So off with them and it's back to the Cannondale stem set, 100mm 10 degrees...
and on with a Selle Anatomica NSX saddle. This is the no-keyhole model that is similar to a Brooks. The "X" part used to be called Clydesdale (!) as it is for heavier riders. The X models have two bias plies- angle-cut leather layers - heat-bonded to the bottom of the top cover. It's a slightly different theory than a Brooks.
The important thing is that it has the rails toward the front, effectively giving the saddle MUCH more setback than my Fizik or a B17 that I used to have.
Rolling off the sit bones forward to spread the weight out onto the rami feels odd. It's not entirely pleasant, but if I get used to it, the saddle will take the shape.
SA advises setting the saddle up slightly nose high to start, to prevent the sensation of sliding forward. I don't know if I'm going to love this saddle, but it certainly provides a good inch more setback than the Fizik.
I've just picked up a cheap second hand bike ($20 Giant Innova 1995..goes well)..adjusted the seat height..felt comfortable...but...not unlike the Raleigh bike that I've put into the back of the shed (but not forgotten!)..I tend to find myself pedalling with my left foot in the correct pedalling position but I always seem to be pedalling with the heel of my right foot.
I checked the saddle to see if I could push it further towards the rear of the bike but it was on the front limit of the rails.
As far as I'm aware I don't have one leg longer than the other and my shoes wear evenly.
Terraferma 650b, Mondonico SL and ELOS, Masi Gran Criterium, Trek 610, Breezer Liberty, Georgena Terry Classic
Originally Posted by The Hansenator
Ok, thanks. What point is the other end of the measurement taken from?
I dropped a plumb-line from the weight bearing part of the saddle and measured to the BB from there.
It's a good question. In my experience, a centimeter or less can matter, so it would be good to measure to the same point on all saddles. The point that I think is really relevant is where your weight is concentrated, the center of sit-bone contact area.
I agree, it's important to have your center of gravity in the right place, and having your sit-bones hanging off the back is not right, and it is not affected by stem length. Not being able to move the saddle back:
> Saddle rails are located inconveniently -- get different saddle
> Saddle rails too short -- different saddle
> Seat post has insufficient setback -- different seat post
> Seat tube angle is not low enough (Post is too upright) --- different frame with more shallow seat tube.
When you do move the saddle back, lower it perhaps 1/10 of the adjustment distance (you can use trigonometry to calculate it exactly if you remember high-school math). You need to make sure your saddle is not effectively too high after the adjustment.
In other words if you move it back by 1/2 inch, lower the seat post about 1/16 inch deeper into the frame. Use tape to mark it. Lower more (1/16 at a time) if perineal pressure of pain is a problem. Don't go so far that your knees hurt in front.
Once you get this stuff organized, think about reach. You might end up bending deeper with your saddle set farther back, and then you wouldn't need to shorten reach.