oxymoroncyclist

I am having a new bike built specifically for long distance/ultra endurance rides. The geometry that was recommended to me is rather different from my current steel bike geometry. I'm not sure how this would actually affect my bike handling. Wondering if anyone can clue me in as to how the new geometry would make a different ride compared to the old?

New geometry marked in black and old geometry in white.

Main Difference is that the old geometry is for a 26" wheels bike with steel fork (deeper curve) while the new geometry is for a 27.5" wheels bike with carbon fork with a very slight curve.



Thanks!

jyl

I'd ask in framebuilder forum.

The geometries look radically different. All my bikes look like your old bike (correction: white). I have no idea what the new bike (correction: black) might ride like. It looks weird - short top tube, short stem, short bar, high head tube, slack head tube. It doesn't look like a performance bike. But ask the experts.

Al Criner

The new geometry looks like it is oriented toward stability and comfort - more upright position, stable handling, longer wheelbase. Less aero position and less responsive handling than a road racing bike designed for maximum speed and quick handling.

But, the frame building, road cycling or long-distance forums have a lot of folks who can address this really well.

Road Fan

The black profile looks more like an off-road bike rather than a bike intended for long-distance road riding, such as 300k or more. A study of what randonneurs rode in the Paris-Brest-Paris found they rode literally anything, from unicycles to road bikes. Most threads about best rando bikes say to start with what's most comfortable for you now, ride some events as you build up distance, and see what works and what doesn't for a new bike. You find head angles anywhere from 71 degrees to 74, and trail figures anywhere from 30 degrees to a more race-like 60 degrees. Longer chain stays seem to be a penalty-free way to get some extra comfort and stability, within limits.

If you want to keep the bike long enough to work up to 1200 km, in my imagination I would want a bike that steers itself and has the efficiency and safe braking of an excellent road racing machine, if not another level yet better. With fenders and a bag or two!

So a frame that accommodates an aero riding position, a properly flat back, and comfort at all bar positions would be important for me, with enough saddle setback to keep me balanced on the bike. I don't think I'd want the high bar position of the black outline bike.

RR3

Did you put a deposit down and did they start work?

If not, get another opinion.

I am having a frame made right now for LD/Endurance and it is more like a sport tourer from the old days but with some design difference to accommodate a very long femur. My seat to stem drop is only 60 mm but it looks like your stem is actually higher than the seat. In short, you will be sitting up and praying on the new bike. Not sure if this will be more comfy or not since the pressure will be on your rear and very little on the hands. More wind will catch you. Radically different riding position.

fietsbob

what ever you can ride for 12 hours. shifting from a 29er Mountain to a 650B road bike is a lot of changes ..