joseluich

im building my own folding bike: and im having some problems.
cabon frame unbranded.
carbon rim wheel set 20' 24holes.

1;- i would love to put internal gear hub 8 speed for a disc break for a my 24 hole rim.
and i can not find where to buy this , any suggestion, or alternative.

2;- i would like to reduce the weight as much as posible, and I need to disk break set, i thought in the formula r1 , any suggestion.

3;-last and more important thing i have not idea the size and the specification to buy the full carbon belt drive set .

thanks to all

FBinNY 

Before doing anything verify that the frame and fork have disc brake mounts. Also if you want a belt, make sure the frame is belt drive compatible, meaning that there's a gate of some sort so an endless belt can pass through into the rear triangle.

If the frame can support the parts you want, THEN you can get into the particulars. If not, why bother.

jur

It would help if you posted pictures of the frame.

joseluich

all checked
-frame and fork have disc brake mounts.
-frame is belt drive compatible.

joseluich

here is it the pictures, the bike frame just arrived , i hope this it can help to get the answers thanks

joseluich

just add it , please check it and tell me thanks you so much!!

jur

You may not find a 24h hub, but that is not such a big problem. It is fairly common to lace a hub to non-matching rim by skipping holes, in this case hub holes. The tricky part is figuring how long the spokes need to be. I have done it once.

jur

The other problem is the belt length and tension. You will need an eccentric bottom bracket to set belt tension. These exist but I have no experience with them.

For brakes, you might consider TRP Spyre or the TRP Spyke.

jur

For the belt set, visit the Gates belt website, there they have resources to help you figure the belt and cogs.

joseluich

would you consider hydraulic break disk instead??

i found this but i dont know if its what i need , ? and where to order??

WH-S500-V-8D-L

BassNotBass

I'd stay away from hydraulic brakes since the seals and o-rings are small and fragile, as are the master cylinders and calipers, and the system is of such small fluid volume that it's very susceptible to issues normally caused by fluid contamination. Also hydraulics are very expensive to repair and there aren't many good bicycle mechanics with working knowledge of how to maintain or repair them. I have yet to see any practical advantages of a hydraulic system over cable for the majority of cycling applications.

fietsbob

Only see a vertical Dropout and a common threaded BB shell So The belt option is Doubtful

chain drive and a chain tensioner is your path forward. Look up data on the 2 8 speed IGH

Shimano you use a different drive ratio than Sturmey archer , because of the internals in the Hub.

BassNotBass

As fietsbob pointed out you most likely won't be able to run a belt not only for the reasons he gave but also because the type of frame you've chosen would make it difficult to add an idler pulley for the slack side of the belt to compensate for the lack of belt tension adjustment provisions.

invisiblehand

36 hole hub to 24 hole rim ...

I done this before. Very straightforward.

36-24 Spoking, by Damon Rinard.

fietsbob

Only way to use a Drive Belt will be a snubber roller scheme. it pushes Up on the bottom from the outside .

leoho5

I would tend to agree with Jur that a belt drive may be possible if there is a correct belt size and you used an eccentric bottom bracket which is an adjustable offset bottom bracket which would allow you to adjust belt tension to a certain degree. I am guessing your rear spacing is 135mm (based on some googling) which means you could use an 8-speed Alfine hub with Gates Carbon. It's really going to weigh your bike down though. I actually prefer the setup you already have as it compliments the lightweight carbon frame you have.

You can lace a 36h hub to 24h rim by skipping every 3rd hole. I remember Bruce Metras did this very beautifully on a Mu Uno with Duomatix. This seems easier than the method on Sheldon Brown.

Oh, and I found an important warning sticker on the frame too. Please make sure you get the riding direction correct

corrado33

Another thing that nobody mentioned is that shimano IGHs require an axle anti-turn washer, which sticks in the dropout beside the axle. With such small dropouts, it's VERY hard to fit that anti-turn washer in there without destroying the dropout (because if the washer isn't completely in the dropout it'll spin back and forth, creating notches in the relatively soft dropout hanger.

I wouldn't suggest a shimano IGH for this bike for that reason.

edelay

Great looking carbon frame. Where did you source that from? Awesome idea to build one up from scratch.