Suggestions for safe removal of a Schlumpf Speed Drive
07-24-17, 05:31 PM
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Suggestions for safe removal of a Schlumpf Speed Drive
I am trying to remove the Sclumpf Speed Drive from my recumbent trike. Unfortunately, the lockring is stuck and the whole assembly turns inside the bottom bracket shell. Of course, there are no flats of any kind on the right side housing (design oversight of a major proportion, in my humble opinion). I have tried a strap wrench with no success. The only thing that comes to mind is a huge pair of channel lock pliers, but I would like to refrain from crushing or damaging the shell if possible.
Do any of you folks with Schlumpf experience have a recommendation as to a non-destructive way to get the lockring loose? If it doesn't come out, it looks like plan B is to get a 110BCD chainring adapter (if one exists) and live with it.
-- I know this isn't the 'bent forum, but I know these drives are somewhat popular on folders, I thought I would tap another forum for its expertise.
Do any of you folks with Schlumpf experience have a recommendation as to a non-destructive way to get the lockring loose? If it doesn't come out, it looks like plan B is to get a 110BCD chainring adapter (if one exists) and live with it.
-- I know this isn't the 'bent forum, but I know these drives are somewhat popular on folders, I thought I would tap another forum for its expertise.
07-24-17, 07:14 PM
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Yep I can help.
Put the Schlumpf in its step-up gear, ie not direct drive. Then put the RH crank arm opn and use that to hold the BB still.
Put the Schlumpf in its step-up gear, ie not direct drive. Then put the RH crank arm opn and use that to hold the BB still.
07-25-17, 05:58 AM
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No hang on, I have been in your position and came up with that solution. I know it works, because in step up gear, the shell is locked to the crank arms through the internal planetary gears. Try again.
07-25-17, 06:01 AM
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Ah wait, it's been a while, I suddenly remember that you have to hold the crank arm AND the chainwheel, and then it works.
07-25-17, 09:29 AM
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Just to remind: Only Schlumpf mountain drive lockrings are left hand threaded,
Schlumpf speed drive and high speed drive nuts are right hand threaded.
And as jur said; holding chainwheel (perhaps using a chain whip?) AND crank should work.
Schlumpf speed drive and high speed drive nuts are right hand threaded.
And as jur said; holding chainwheel (perhaps using a chain whip?) AND crank should work.
07-25-17, 08:23 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys. Sadly, no joy. I am using a ~16" long 1/2" drive ratchet with the appropriate Schlumpf locknut socket. Following right hand thread rules. :-) Used chain whip & crankarm in high gear and was unable to get it to pop loose. Either King Kong installed this thing, or they used an aggressive thread locker. At any rate I'm going to stop before I tear something up, and see if I can come across an impact wrench.
The drive isn't actually horrible, but I find it highly inconvenient to kick from high to low as I go through rolling hills, I lose too much momentum during the pause in pedaling it takes to shift. I believe I may put a 130BCD adapter on it with a low and middle ring (like a 38/52 or similar), and save the high speed drive for the few times I'm actually going fast. A 34T ring would be better, but as far as I know the 110BCD adapter is only available on the mountain drive, not for the high speed drive that I have.
The drive isn't actually horrible, but I find it highly inconvenient to kick from high to low as I go through rolling hills, I lose too much momentum during the pause in pedaling it takes to shift. I believe I may put a 130BCD adapter on it with a low and middle ring (like a 38/52 or similar), and save the high speed drive for the few times I'm actually going fast. A 34T ring would be better, but as far as I know the 110BCD adapter is only available on the mountain drive, not for the high speed drive that I have.
07-26-17, 03:35 AM
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1. You wrote first speed drive and last high speed drive - plz check again.
2. The Schlumpf drives were documented very well - and below paragraph I.17. it means
mountain drive
(At the bottom of this page are also links for the workbench manuals of all drive versions.)
3. According to my own experience with Schlumpf speed drives can these be switched during pedaling without any problem (at least with kickshift plates).
2. The Schlumpf drives were documented very well - and below paragraph I.17. it means
Originally Posted by Schlumpf Innovations
...In the worst case, the pressed in black tube starts spinning - nothing can be dismounted nor unscrewed...
In this case, the only remedies are the followings:
- first make sure, that you're trying to unscrew the right way round. mountain-drive has a left hand thread, speed- and high-speed-drive have a right hand thread. If the drive is mounted on the left side, the threads are vice-versa.
- second try to losen the grooved nut with a powerful hammer stroke on the extension of the box wrench. This often helps due to inertia.
- last and most serious action: you have to dismount the whole drive by unscrewing not only the left crankarm but also the self locking nut on the axle. Now (except speed-drives with plastic cover) you can pull off the whole unit to the right side. Please do it carefully to avoid, that a lot of balls and springs fall to basement!! Now you have to prepare a piece of aluminum or wood with a diameter of about 32mm. Turn or grind it to a conical shape on one end and hammer it into the black tube. Now you are able to hold the tube as well as to loosening the nut in the correct direction.
If you try to disassemble an older speed-drive (with plastic cover on the left side of the gear housing) this way, you have to snap-off the cover at the same time you are trying to pull the gear out of the housing.
In this case, the only remedies are the followings:
- first make sure, that you're trying to unscrew the right way round. mountain-drive has a left hand thread, speed- and high-speed-drive have a right hand thread. If the drive is mounted on the left side, the threads are vice-versa.
- second try to losen the grooved nut with a powerful hammer stroke on the extension of the box wrench. This often helps due to inertia.
- last and most serious action: you have to dismount the whole drive by unscrewing not only the left crankarm but also the self locking nut on the axle. Now (except speed-drives with plastic cover) you can pull off the whole unit to the right side. Please do it carefully to avoid, that a lot of balls and springs fall to basement!! Now you have to prepare a piece of aluminum or wood with a diameter of about 32mm. Turn or grind it to a conical shape on one end and hammer it into the black tube. Now you are able to hold the tube as well as to loosening the nut in the correct direction.
If you try to disassemble an older speed-drive (with plastic cover on the left side of the gear housing) this way, you have to snap-off the cover at the same time you are trying to pull the gear out of the housing.
(At the bottom of this page are also links for the workbench manuals of all drive versions.)
3. According to my own experience with Schlumpf speed drives can these be switched during pedaling without any problem (at least with kickshift plates).
07-26-17, 07:33 AM
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1. You wrote first speed drive and last high speed drive - plz check again.
2. The Schlumpf drives were documented very well - and below paragraph I.17. it means
mountain drive
(At the bottom of this page are also links for the workbench manuals of all drive versions.)
3. According to my own experience with Schlumpf speed drives can these be switched during pedaling without any problem (at least with kickshift plates).
2. The Schlumpf drives were documented very well - and below paragraph I.17. it means
mountain drive
(At the bottom of this page are also links for the workbench manuals of all drive versions.)
3. According to my own experience with Schlumpf speed drives can these be switched during pedaling without any problem (at least with kickshift plates).
2. I found that paragraph online, I even tried the bigger hammer! I have decided against pulling the drive out from the right at this time.
3. My drive doesn't have kickplates, it seems like something I should perhaps look into.
Thanks for your help!
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