af895

Howdy all!

I'm about to add either folding or detachable pedals to my folder.

Whatever I get needs to accomodate "Power-Grips"

I see the MKS Quick-Release pedals would probably work.

Anyone know which folding pedals would accomodate the Power-Grips?
Too many choices!

EDIT: to all my American friends, HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Thanks,
Chris

jasong

I want to get a set of the MKS pedals as well. I have PowerGrips on 3 bikes of mine and find them quite good in performance. It seems like a better solution for me would have been to get the detachable MKS and just get extra female parts for the cranks and move them in between.

Does anyone know if you can buy extra sets of the crankarm part, so these can be migrated between bikes quickly?

Af, other than maintaining the folding pedal in its place, why would you prefer folding pedals to the MKS? Are there any folding pedals that leave as little profile behind as the MKS?

jasong

Well, price also isn't attractive for the MKS pedals. $70-80 is more than I've spent on any other pedals. I like the MKS idea a lot. Of course, you don't have to remove the pedals, and if your KHS is like my Downtube, really only one pedal protudes. Having them lost by security seems just as likely as anything else loose, which is a ton of stuff if you're travelling with a bike.

jasong

You've probably already researched this, but my powergrips go from one diagonal to the other. Are you counting on the strap bending in the process? Because if both attachment points for the strap are on the bended pedal (ie. same plane), then foot entry space might be limited. The reflectors look like they've been drilled on the same plane. What's your thought? I guess you'll have them soon. Also, Nashbar sells the straps alone so you don't have to get the pedal/strap deal together.

jasong

Mine has one plate that goes on the most forward part of the pedal. The other part attaches to the inner hole on the back of the pedal, which seems like it might be really narrow on that folding pedal. Maybe it could be attachedto what looks the the cage's bolt on the inside, and the band would just fold as the pedal folds.

v1nce

Cool that more people are trying PowerGrips i have some but have yet to mount them. I really like that they are middle ground between Clips and SPD. I heard another possible advantage of the PowerGrips. An experienced tourer told me yesterday he did not use SPD because it locks his leg in one position. He had noticed that on longer rides being able to change the angle of your foot and leg was essential (to him) otherwise he would overuse certain muscles and have some pains. I guess the PowerGrips have some leeway in this regard and may allow you to use different muscles by slightly adjusting you position.

jasong

v1nce, this adjustable angle is called float on clipless pedals, and can vary a lot. SPD have the worst of float in comparison to other pedals (4 degrees). Also, to be able to use powergrips like clipped pedals, you need to have your foot well rotated to the inside to get the strap to lock. But there is more variability, fore/aft / side to side.

v1nce

Ahhh so that is this float bizz i keep reading about i know nothing about clipless. thanks for that info.

af895

UPDATE!

Received a pair of Suntour PL-NX-150 alloy folding pedals & Power-Grips today - courtesy of Mike Librik at Easy-Street Recumbents in Austin Texas.

BIG thank you to Mike who patiently answered all of my questions. We must've exchanged a dozen emails.



To mount a Power-Grip, a pedal needs at least three mounting holes - two of them of the type use to secure a toe-clip.

The PL-NX-150's are drilled for toe-clips or the easily-removed reflectors which came installed.

The challenge with a folding pedal is the toe-clip/reflector holes are placed farther outboard than on a conventional pedal.

The Power-Grip instructions would have you put the metal band on the front of the pedal - mounted with supplied bolts to the toe-clip holes.



With a bit of tweaking, I found an easy solution: put the metal band on the BACK of the pedal with the strap attach-point inboard, instead of outboard. (the strap still has the same orientation as a stock install)

To prevent the metal band from interfering with the folding mechanism, I put three of the supplied washers under the inboard hole to add clearance for the sliding bolt. Difficult to describe but I hope the photos help.



Here's a link to the pedals on Suntour's site: https://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/standard.xml?vpID=132

...and the Power-Grip site: https://www.powergrips.com/

p.s. I ordered the XL PowerGrips and had to trim a few inches off. They're HUGE! Unless you wear a size 16-EEE shoe, I'd stick with the regular sized Power-Grips.

EDIT!

Revision two: adding a bend to the metal bar used to anchor the Power-Grip.
Instead of washers for slide-block clearance, the bend does the trick. Easy to do with a couple of wood blocks and a mallet.



Also replaced the Philips head bolts with stainless, Allen-head bolts.

What can I say? It's my day off and I'm obsessed with my bike.

jasong

So to lock your foot into the grip, you must rotate the tip of your foot inward (counterclockwise looking downward at toe)? Normal use is the opposite, which I think reflects a more normal stance for cycling. Not sure how that'd feel.

Also, was the screw used to hold the cage to the pedal body a possible candidate to hold the strap, instead of the drilled hole next to it?

jasong

You know, why couldn't the plate be reversed as normally used? And the opposite side placed on the next inward bolt? Seems like it would still fold?

v1nce

Looks Snazzy! thx for the pics. Do those pedals feature 'industrial bearings'? Bearings that are machined to good tolerance and can even be replaced once they wear out (long time)..? How much did they set you back again?

jasong

Ok, I see now (how to lock in) from the pics.

af895

BUMP!

(see the revisions to the photo post above)