Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    116
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    SRAM vs Shimano Internal Hub on a DT?

    My LBS is recommending the SRAM 7 speed hub (same spread as the Shimano 8) over the Shimano Nexus.
    They do a lot of internal gear hub work.
    One feature is the ease of removing wheel for tire service. Anyone else have experience with this hub?
    SRAM has the external "clickbox" connection that quick connects the cable on and off so you don't have to
    readjust when putting wheel back on. It also hangs out a bit.


    It is for a Downtube full suspension. I am also deciding on drum, coaster brake versions or keeping
    the v brake. I do go on some long downhills and I hear you can burn up drums unless you just use
    the front v brake on a long run.

  2. #2
    Folding bike junkie! Wavshrdr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    754
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have had both. I personally will stick with the Shimano 8spd Red Label. I like the finer graduation between gears, the hub is faster and it isn't difficult to service. I personally had issues with the clickbox trying to sometimes get it release. It also takes up more room in the suitcase unless you unclick it everytime. The cable is more prone to snags too but that may not be an issue depending on where you ride. I terms of actual usage my 8spd Nexus was smoother than my SRAM. Tire changes are really that different in actual effort.

    I would keep the V-brake on the DT if you have a lot of hills to deal with. Any reason you want to go coaster or drum? The brake is easier to service on the v but rim wear could be an issue. In reality though if you aren't going very fast it won't be an issue.

  3. #3
    Senior Member caotropheus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Portugal-Israel
    Posts
    862
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would go Nexus 8 and keep both front and rear brake either V-brake or caliper.
    Last edited by caotropheus; 03-08-06 at 02:18 AM.

  4. #4
    Raleigh20 PugFixie, Merc LittlePixel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    London UK
    My Bikes
    1982 Raleigh Twenty Hotrod Fixie; 1984 Peugeot Premier Fixie, 2007 Merc Lightweight folder
    Posts
    1,956
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a SRAM Spectro 7 and although nice I've had issues with the quality of the clickbox after removing it for one of the myriad of punctures (I count about 12) on my rear wheel in the last year. (What can I say but I have bad tyre karma)

    Basically - there's a little thumbscrew on the clickbox that you tighten when the wheel is back on and in place over the hub axle to ensure everything stays securely put, but this screw tightens into a tiny little brass collar that is only held in to the plastic body of the clickbox by what looks like heat and friction at the time of manufacture. Over-tighten this once as I did and the ring comes away from the housing and means you can't tighten it, meaning you get stuck in a gear and can't shift anymore. Meaning you'll basically need to replace the whole shifting mechanism (For about 35 GBP; $65 USD?) unless you can source individual parts. Not ideal really!

    I have mine kinda fixed temporarily McGyver style (until I can build my proper track fixie wheels) with some epoxy glue but it won't hold for long (it's already loose and I have another punture to fix in the meantime). So I guess I'm saying I like the SRAM as a hub but be careful with the click-box as it's hyper-fragile and doesn't take to be being taken on/off a lot. Which is crap when it has to come off for punctures.
    Last edited by LittlePixel; 03-08-06 at 06:01 PM.

  5. #5
    too many bikes
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    659
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    time for some kevlar tires, spinskins (just cut a 700c or MTB size to fit 406's) and thorn resistant tubes. I went that way to ride a 700c where there are max debris shoulders.... the wheelset is noticeably heavier, mostly from the thorn resistant tubes (perf. bike) and the Kenda's are heavier than the Conti's ... but NO flats. I've used needlenose pliers to pull pieces of glass out of the tires that would definitely have punctured my previous setup.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,396
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I agree with most what has been said above but i would like to add the 'other perspective':

    I don't like Shimano much, their bizz practices and their dominance in the sport. I do like S-Ram. Both make quality products. From a technical standpoint the Red Label Shimano is better but i think it is usually also a lot more expensive. S-Ram deserves support in my opinion, they are one of the most innovative companies around and pretty small in comparison to Shimano.

    From a service/LBS and my point of view any new Shimano hub is terrible. They are very hard to service and parts/units are very expensive. This is not at all the case with the S Ram by comparison.

    I picked the S Ram and don't regret it but one day i may get a red band hub or a Capreo der.

    I guess in the end it depends on what you prioritize.
    http://www.rhizomes.nl/twenty.html
    My Tweaked and modded Raleigh Twenty. Lots of pictures and lots of general info on for example a different & Cheap Bottom Bracket solution as well as fork solution.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •