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  1. #1
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    DT, what I found inside.

    I have finished my first wave of updates to my pair of DT's to make them
    ready for saltwater exposure this summer on our boat.

    1.New Shimano UN73 Bottom Brackets.
    2.New lined cable housings and new Stainless cables.
    3.Lube headsets.
    4.Replaced stem tube with alloy and added ahead stem on one bike that has bigger rider.
    5. Replaced gripshift with SRAM MRX gripshift.

    The only deficiency I found is something that I have experienced with other Chinese built
    bearing products.... poor or little grease. Both the headset and bottom bracket had
    a very light coating of a brown tar-like grease. It was not slick at all, but looks like it was designed to
    stay put. I loaded up the headsets with white lithium grease.
    If you are going to open up the bb anyway to relube, you might as well put in a sealed alloy
    bottom bracket . You can buy one from Nashbar for $15.00. Or Shimano brand in the twenties.
    The stock bb is steel with open bearings and looks like it will be corroded or worn out with much
    harsh exposure.

    I did have to add some tools to do the work: a Park cable cutter, a Nashbar BB tool and a Park crank puller and a used Blackburn bike repair stand.
    I pulled the bottom bracket left side out by putting the bike in a vise and spinning the frame and on the fixed cup end (right side) I used Sheldon Brown's homemade bolt tool. Both methods worked fine and did not damage the original parts but I am tossing them anyway.

    Everything has been standard tools and part sizes. EXCEPT... the cable housings and lengths keep you from using the precut cable kits. You need to buy cut to order, bulk or tandem/recumbent kits.

    This is my very first time doing ANY maintenance work on a bike. I have not even changed a tube before.
    I got my instructions from Sheldon Brown website and a book called "Bicycling Magazine's Complete
    Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair" I got free from the eBay seller that I purchased by bike
    repair stand from.

    My next wave of upgrades will come only after things break or need service with time. They will include
    1.Nexus (or other) 8 speed rear hub (when hub, wheel or derailleur need work)
    2. Kenda Kwest or Schwalbe Marathon tires

    AND I STILL NEED A KICKSTAND FOR MY FS. PLEASE HELP IF YOU HAVE FIGURED IT OUT!!!!


    Hbob

  2. #2
    Seņor Mambo
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    Good job! But what you did was harder than changing a tube.

    As far as the gear hub goes, it will be fun to figure out your optimum chain tension if you have full suspension, not to mention building your own wheel. But the money's worth the spending for the knowledge you gain in return. Also, good point about needing to get recumbent/tandem cables for folding bikes; I forgot about that myself since I haven't changed cables in a while.

    But I think I'm just about done with most of my experimentations; can't pay tuition forever.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by spambait11
    Good job! But what you did was harder than changing a tube.

    As far as the gear hub goes, it will be fun to figure out your optimum chain tension if you have full suspension, not to mention building your own wheel. But the money's worth the spending for the knowledge you gain in return. Also, good point about needing to get recumbent/tandem cables for folding bikes; I forgot about that myself since I haven't changed cables in a while.

    But I think I'm just about done with most of my experimentations; can't pay tuition forever.
    I would have the wheel built for me. The local shop gives a year of wheel adjustment if they build itand I don't have any wheel tools or knowledge. You can get a wheel built for $40 - $50 plus parts and I figure that is worth it. I don't know if that allows for bringing in your own parts.

  4. #4
    All ur bike r belong Enki james_swift's Avatar
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    Don't forget a headset seal: http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/114...adset-Seal.htm

    My first wet-weather ride on my Swift pushed gravel into the bottom headset bearings (grease being the dirt magnet that it is), causing my steering to be "crunchy" afterwards. After tapping-out the bottom bearing and cleaning and repacking with waterproof grease, I bought myself $3.00 of insurance by slapping-on a headset seal. 500 miles and a couple of months of wet weather riding later, no crunchy steering.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by spambait11
    Good job! But what you did was harder than changing a tube.

    As far as the gear hub goes, it will be fun to figure out your optimum chain tension if you have full suspension, not to mention building your own wheel. But the money's worth the spending for the knowledge you gain in return. Also, good point about needing to get recumbent/tandem cables for folding bikes; I forgot about that myself since I haven't changed cables in a while.

    But I think I'm just about done with most of my experimentations; can't pay tuition forever.
    Kudos here also! It's rewarding to get involved with your bikes!

    I've made a couple of mods to my Downtube FS pictured below besides the Nexus 8spd RedBand hub .. As 'spambait11' pointed out, finding the correct chain tension with active suspension and a hub gear is fun.. I originally set my tension pretty loose as my body weight would remove most of the slack and I would just ride on. What did happen with my bike, I 'could' get the chain to de-rail if I were standing the bike on it's rear wheel while moving it around with the chain at it's most slack... so, I decided to add a Surley chain tensioner... It has worked out perfect.. I also added Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires front and rear to attempt to avoid the flats I was having due to the dastardly thorns picked up during my off-road excursions.. thus far, the Marathon Plus tires get high marks from me.. they roll well and feel excellent in the dirt and mud (where I find myself a lot with my dog), as well as the street.. Also added are PowerGrips to the stock resin folding pedals... I am totally enjoying the hub gear and find it makes a great bike even better... with almost daily use, folding and un-folding over the last 8 months, I have had no mechanical problems with the FS... for a dual-purpose 20" wheeled bike, you'd have to go some to get a folder that handles the rough stuff as well.

    Bruce
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceMetras
    Kudos here also! It's rewarding to get involved with your bikes!

    so, I decided to add a Surley chain tensioner...

    Bruce
    Did it take any special extra braze on to put on the tensioner or does it fit over the axle.
    It is hard to tell from the photo (How about a closeup? )
    Hbob

  7. #7
    Seņor Mambo
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    Did it take any special extra braze on to put on the tensioner or does it fit over the axle.
    It should bolt directly into the derailleur hole/hanger.

    (Bruce's DT was exactly what came to my mind though the Singleator is a new twist.)

  8. #8
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    Would the cheaper Pyramid chain tensioner work (half the price)?

  9. #9
    Seņor Mambo
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    The Pyramid should be able to screw right in, but I don't know how well they hold tension; never used one.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by hbob
    Would the cheaper Pyramid chain tensioner work (half the price)?
    It might work, I never tried it.. Sheldon's page says the Pyramid's are not available.. the Surley's only $41 retail at Bikeman.. I chose it because of it's adjustable tension and ability to tension either in the 'up' or 'down' positions via two interchangeable springs... the chain guards are nice (you could remove them if you wanted), it can match to your chain line, and you can buy only the rotating parts if you want when they wear out...I toyed with trying the DMR unit as it looks like it might be higher quality, but I couldn't tell how adjustable it was for matching chain line, so I went cheaper and will see how long it lasts for me..

    Bruce

  11. #11
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    Thanks Bruce, I will use the same as you and save the worry.
    Hbob

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