lee_rimar

I'll start:

1) DONE: A small rear fender extension - a bit of plastic cut from a yogurt tub and some duct tape. The unmodified fender is too short and lets road-spray hit my back. After my extension is road and rain tested a bit, I'll make something that looks nicer, with a better grade of plastic and cleaner looking attachment.

2) DONE: Tape several places on the frame, to prevent scratching where you can get metal-to-metal contact during folding/unfolding. There are a few plastic blisters in strategic locations already, but not everyplace they're needed.

3) WANTED: A redesigned seat-mount with two significant differences:
3a) Tighten/loosen with quick release levers, to allow easier height adjustment
3b) Allow the seat to flip upwards/forwards while folding (like the plastic rack), for more compactness.

Any other suggestions, things already done or desired?

rhm

I too put an extension on the rear fender, but it interfered with rolling the bike when folded, and one day I ripped it off and threw it away.

Next I made a wedge-shaped rack trunk that sat in the recess in the rack. It was very small, but I was able to keep tire levers and a spare tube in it. I later modified it to fit a pump (which stuck out a hole). I was still able to strap stuff to the top of the rack. I used this for over a year, but a few weeks ago it disappeared. Not sure what happened to it; I haven't replaced it yet.

I also put tape and stuff on the steering tube to protect it during folds like you did.

I often hook a plastic grocery bag to the front of the seat, and then arrange it so the groceries hang down behind the seat -- the empty part of the bag follows the groove in the seat. You can carry a surprisingly heavy bag that way. But that's not really a modification, is it.

Simple Simon

I also did a crude mudflap, but then when strida did their own I got 2 (at £4) ... much better ! Its quite flexible so dont effect wheeling and going down steps. I polished the scratch where tubes come together - and accept it. I wondered about using a small clear self adhesive patch. I ditched the rack long ago - I use a paper-boy/courier bag which was the original mudflap.

I put a small rubber o-ring under the rear magnet catch, to stop it rattling.
Put the Seat as far back on its rails as it will go - with heavy leaverage. The platic mounting seams to flex aroung the rails with no ill effects. I ditched the middle screw on the seat mounting, didn't seem to do much and gives easier seat adjustment when my wife uses it - I'd love a quick release seat clamp... and have been intending to experiment with pair of seat clamp quick releases, in the steel straps.

I filed the slots for the handlebar buttons so that they snap in automatically, and now (maybe because of this ? ) they also snap out when folding them - without having to press them. I prefer this as its faster and the buttons still give a visual indication that the bars are in. The clamp holds the bars absolutely rigidly.

Otherwise all standard - and lasting well. I do occationally check screws and clamps for tightness, crank axle bearings seem to need tightening occationally, as do cranks themselves. I keep belt adjusted, if anything, too slack - it feels faster, but it does 'pop' in the wet.

lee_rimar

Ha, I didn't even know those were on the Strida UK site, thanks for pointing them out Still, £4 seems a bit much for such a tiny bit of plastic.

lee_rimar

No, but it's a good tip - thanks. Will come in handy since I ditched the little plastic rack.

cyclistjohn

There's a few prior posts where I mentioned I've done the odd mod.

New saddle for my longer rides:

https://www.comfortsaddle.com/index.cfm

Zefal toe clips. They don't interfere with folding & seem robust.

Wireless computer. Surprisingly the long separation of rx/ tx doesn't seem a problem.

I've also been experimenting with a tube having a couple of small wheels at one end, so that I could stroll the bike near vertically over relatively long periods, especially handy where it's stop start as in supermarket aisles. It takes up minimum floor space then & is less obtrusive than many pushchairs. It's not fitted ATM, as I'm looking for lighter weight materials.

Chop!

Hi John

I'm surprised that the Comfort saddle's action still works on a Strida, any pics?

tmSionstrida1.jpg

tmsionstrida2.jpg

cyclistjohn

I wasn't sure it would either Chop!

So, I contacted CS, spoke to an interesting fella there, & he was interested to know what it would be like on a Strida.

I tried various ways of fitting it without altering the plastic seat moulding on the bike. None were any use, so as the Strida moulding is very strong, I decided to modify it just a little. Hopefully you can see how in the pic's:

https://www.geocities.com/stridarida/

I was naturally concerned about safety (mine ;-) ) so I arranged to visit CS. There I discovered that the seat was actually designed by a surgeon. He obviously understands anatomy & mechanics pretty well :-)

The CS verdict was that the fitting wasn't actually optimum, as the wishbones should be parallel, but it's not too far off, & it's been fine for > 300 miles so far.

It's still easy to remove & fit the seat. I could modify the moulding further but I wanted to do it in stages so I could gauge any differences.


I forgot to mention that the Zefal clips also double as kick stands. You can perhaps make that out from the top pic'.

Today's mod' was to take my Topeak mini pump, clip it to the steering tube, & fasten a bottle cage to it :-)
Fortunately, it does keep clear of my knees, & doesn't interfere with folding.

Chop!

Wow! That looks really wacky!!! But comfort isn't always in the eye of the beholder!

cyclistjohn

When I first rode the Strida with that seat, I was amazed at how much movement there was at the seat!

It felt really strange, & took about 40 miles before I wasn't aware of that sensation any more.

Moving on to a conventional seat feels uncomfortable very quickly in comparison.

When I ride the CS again afterwards, the original sensation of that extra motion returns, but only for a couple of minutes, so I must have adapted now I suppose.

The CS web site emphasises the need to ride for some time before making any decisions about it, & that's correct. A few miles isn't enough to adjust to it.

rhm

I can't find it now; but somewhere in BF I saw a post according to which someone had put shorter crank arms on his Strida to improve spinning. I am tempted to try that as well.

cyclistjohn

Never thought of that :-)

Worthwhile for when we go to Belgium & Holland later this year for sure. The cranks are easy to change, so as one of the main uses of the bikes for us is on holiday, we could pack a spare pair ;-)

When I looked at crank arm lengths a while ago, ISTR an article suggested I (for my height, legs, etc.) should be pushing shorter than the standard Strida size cranks anyway.

It would be detrimental on hills I imagine.

If you find the thread let us know please.

Now to find where to get a shorter crank......

rhm

As I remember, there wasn't much more to the post than what I've mentioned. But what do I know.
They make lots of shorter cranks for BMX bikes. Here's an example:
https://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_...1&p=01%2D98437
But that has a spider for a chainring on the right side. I suppose you could hack that off, for a nice 'custom' look.
Be sure to post pics if you do it!

cyclistjohn

;-)))

I'm wondering if these might be worth trying?

https://www.unicycle.com/shopping/sho...Arms+%26+Parts

"ProWheel Alloy Crank Arms"

rhm

Yes, I'm pretty sure those would do the trick. Price seems pretty reasonable, too. The question, then, is: would it make any difference? Would it improve the ride? If you try it, be sure to let us know!