Making a Swift lighter
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However, because they are not too far from me I think I will go with them and build a set of wheels up myself. Even though I have never done it before I’m confident of getting a good round wheel though will probably need help with the final tensioning. I will do a little more research before I purchase them to try and find out if the Velocity rim is actually any better. In the 406 version I don’t think the Sun rim has a machined sidewall.
#179
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For those still wanting to splash on a ultra-light fork, this may be worth following up:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRIGON-RC...31b925e&_uhb=1
Also, do an ebay search in cycling with 451 as the subject. Some nice goodies turn up including a full carbon wheelset. Too rich for me though. Finally, check out seller 54rayran - he has some very light wheelsets.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRIGON-RC...31b925e&_uhb=1
Also, do an ebay search in cycling with 451 as the subject. Some nice goodies turn up including a full carbon wheelset. Too rich for me though. Finally, check out seller 54rayran - he has some very light wheelsets.
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For those still wanting to splash on a ultra-light fork, this may be worth following up:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRIGON-RC...31b925e&_uhb=1
Also, do an ebay search in cycling with 451 as the subject. Some nice goodies turn up including a full carbon wheelset. Too rich for me though. Finally, check out seller 54rayran - he has some very light wheelsets.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRIGON-RC...31b925e&_uhb=1
Also, do an ebay search in cycling with 451 as the subject. Some nice goodies turn up including a full carbon wheelset. Too rich for me though. Finally, check out seller 54rayran - he has some very light wheelsets.
I would have been really interested in the fork but I have decided to stick with 406 wheels, I just think they look better on the Swift and I trust my intuition.
How did your Velocity Aeroheat wheels hold up? Was the 16 spoke front wheel ok?
Michael.
#181
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Those wheels are still going as strong as ever. They're now on Connie's Moulton. Never even required even the slightest re-truing. Never a peep from the spokes. I am rather proud of my wheel-building efforts - never had to do anything at all for any of the ones I have built.
#182
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Anyone know an off-the-shelf seatpost replacement that doesn't have the offset?
Ideally it'd be lighter but mostly it's for fit. I can't seem to get the saddle to BB position quite as I'd like.
Ideally it'd be lighter but mostly it's for fit. I can't seem to get the saddle to BB position quite as I'd like.
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The other thing I did was change to shorter cranks. I'm happy on 175 or 170 cranks but using the shorter on has the same effect on positioning as pushing the saddle forward 5mm. When transferring bike fit from bike to the bike or from a known measurement, the relative position of saddle to BB is only true for a constant crank length. You change crank length and you also have to change saddle height and fore/aft position. It's not saddle to bb that you need to optimise its you hips to ball of feet when forward. So changing cleat position will also affect this as will shape of saddle.
The root cause of the problem is the seat angle being too slack. So you could also solve the problem by running a 451 wheel on the back and a 406 wheel on the front, if you could find a folk with more rake to compensate for the reduction in front wheel trail.
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Forgot to mention...
- ibeam post/saddle combo will save a little weight
- but make sure you get the hammock-style saddle if comfort is a issue. The lightest i-beam saddles are rock hard
- ibeam post/saddle combo will save a little weight
- but make sure you get the hammock-style saddle if comfort is a issue. The lightest i-beam saddles are rock hard
Last edited by rickybails; 02-04-13 at 09:05 AM.
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I have the same problem. I have changed to an i-beam seatpost. This still has a setback but not quite as much but the i-beam interface allows the saddle to be pushed further forward than traditional rails. . There is a limit though - at the extreme forward position the leverage you get is too much for the saddle 'rails' and you can damage the saddle.
My options are quite limited. I have two 406 rear wheels already so I don't want to switch to 451, and I'm also fine on 175 or 170 cranks but already on 170 on this bike. I suppose I could look into 165 but I think I'd lose more leverage than I'd want. I also don't want to switch cleat position on my shoes just for one bike.
I wish the seat angle wasn't so slack! Or the Swift came in sizes, one with a shorter main "top" tube would be good since there's 0 chance of toe overlap.
For now my solution is to run a Selle Anatomica, which has longer rails than most saddles. It's heavy but then the bike is anyway.
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I have the same problem. I have changed to an i-beam seatpost. This still has a setback but not quite as much but the i-beam interface allows the saddle to be pushed further forward than traditional rails. . There is a limit though - at the extreme forward position the leverage you get is too much for the saddle 'rails' and you can damage the saddle.
One thing I noticed when mounting the saddle on the I-beam seatpost was that having tightened up the bolts, if you did not then prestress the saddle (pulling the saddle up an down and from side to side) then the bolts would in fact be dangerously loose. I would guess that some of the reported failures are due this. I had to prestress several times and tighten the bolts a bit more each time before giving it a final vigorous workout to confirm to myself that there was no slack left in the bolts.
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Using my visual perception only, this fork looks as if it might be good for the Swift. Only 350 grams. Not the best looking side profile though.
https://carbonrecumbent.com/en/produc...es#front-forks
https://carbonrecumbent.com/en/produc...es#front-forks
#188
my nice bike is at home
Tri-gon looks better IMO