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Old 06-10-08, 10:39 AM   #1
trueno92
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crank lengths, did you go shorter?

ok, im trying to find 165mm cranks for my strida. this is getting kinda hard.

1. needs to be square taper
2. needs to have the mountain-bike-standard 4 bolt-to-chain ring attachment
3. needs to be 165mm..

i figure the very tiny 16" wheels will be fast enough to accelerate, but now im looking for cranks since the factory stuff is 175mm.

btw, the bike stays on the road for most part with 16x1.50 tires.. so very small stuff that accellerates pretty fast. my inseam is around 32"


any leads? toronto sucks! (except for urbane!)

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Old 06-10-08, 12:51 PM   #2
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Why do you want the shorter cranks? Just have to pedal faster to go same speed. My inseam is 30 inches, I have 175's on all my bikes, including my 16 inch single speed folder, and have no problems with them being "too long".
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Old 06-10-08, 01:35 PM   #3
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Why do you want the shorter cranks?
Possibly because he's been listening to me, not that that necessarily makes it a good idea.
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Just have to pedal faster to go same speed.
I don't think that's right. The pedals on my bike, with 14 cm crank arms, travel 88 cm per revolution. The pedals on yours, with 17.5 cm arms, travel 110 cm per revolution. That means to complete one revolution, your feet have to go 25% faster than mine do. This means if the rest of the drive train is the same, and our feet move at the same speed, I will go faster than you. If we are going the same speed, I will be moving my feet around smaller circles, and therefore slower.
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I have 175's on all my bikes, including my 16 inch single speed folder, and have no problems with them being "too long".
Hey, if that's what you like, I'm cool with that; but I would politely suggest you not be too sure of yourself unless you've actually tried short ones. I used to experiment with 175's, 172.5's, 170's, and I found they were all pretty much the same. Now that I have 140's on one of my bikes, I understand why the 175's, 172.5's, 170's, and even 165's, all felt the same to me. They feel the same because they fit the same: too big. But maybe that's just me.

My inseam (pants size) is 32.
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Old 06-10-08, 01:39 PM   #4
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my pant inseam is 32, but i've always worn them low. lol only thing is that the cranks RHM suggested don't come in a 4 bolt 104bcd

with everything done to the strida, the cranks would finish it off nicely and add a bit more speed, no?
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Old 06-11-08, 08:35 PM   #5
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do you have to have 4 arm, plenty of good ones available 165 length in 110 and 130, sugino rd comes to mind

if only 4 arm will work, the only ones I can think of offhand is shimano xt or lesser mt cranks...shimano does make everything in 165
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Old 06-12-08, 12:38 PM   #6
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ok i found a set of FSA RPM cranks



now im just wondering if they are worth $70.........

should i get them? Finding a single speed drive thats still

1. square JIS taper
2. Single speed, notice no extra bolt holes for extra rings
3. 170mm or shorter length.
4. 4 bolt 104bcd spider

these seriously seem to be the holy grail of crank arms.. now... is the price ok?
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Old 06-12-08, 01:22 PM   #7
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...
now im just wondering if they are worth $70.... is the price ok?
I don't see the point. Why?

Check this out:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20ATB%20Cranks
I know, it's a triple. But it may be possible to remove and discard the smaller cogs, and now you have a 48T cog attached to 160mm arms. $7.49 plus shipping!

If you find a temporary solution, you can send your other crank to BikeSmith design and having them shortened... but that's still $50.
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Old 06-12-08, 01:49 PM   #8
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looked at that nashbar special previously, its for a kids bike and NONE of the rings can come off!

bike smith would be a good bet, actually im considering drilling it and tapping the threads myself, the only thing is getting it perfectly straight.

bikesmith + shipping = at least $60 + CUSTOMS back into canada = $20 minimum... go figure.
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Old 06-12-08, 08:17 PM   #9
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I have a set of 145mm AC MiniLe 5 bolt cranks with 110 spacing and square taper, but I'm using them on my wife's R20 rebuild, which includes 406mm rims and SA 8 spd hub.

rhm, do you think a 48t chainring would be too big with this set up?
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Old 06-13-08, 06:48 AM   #10
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looked at that nashbar special previously, its for a kids bike and NONE of the rings can come off!
Oh, I see. Good point about the rings. Still, it couldn't be too hard to cut the 48T ring down to a 4-arm spider; odds are pretty good the holes will be spaced correctly for your Strida's ring. And if they're not spaced correctly, it wouldn't be too hard to drill four holes in the correct spacing.

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bike smith would be a good bet, actually im considering drilling it and tapping the threads myself, the only thing is getting it perfectly straight.

bikesmith + shipping = at least $60 + CUSTOMS back into canada = $20 minimum... go figure.
You're right, the cost is prohibitive, as much as I'd like to support a cool business like the Bikesmith.

Actually, I'm considering trying it myself, too. Here's my plan for getting it all straight: You need two straight pedal spindles and a big block of hard wood. Drill two holes in the block of wood. I'd put them about 30 mm apart. One hole should be sized to fit the pedal spindle snugly, so spindle holds the block of wood in the correct orientation to the crank arm; the second hole should be sized to fit the drill bit for the new pedal hole. 1/2", maybe? The block of wood has to be drilled with a press to ensure the holes are perfectly parallel. Make sense?

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I have a set of 145mm AC MiniLe 5 bolt cranks with 110 spacing and square taper, but I'm using them on my wife's R20 rebuild, which includes 406mm rims and SA 8 spd hub.

rhm, do you think a 48t chainring would be too big with this set up?
Yes, for my taste it would be. What's your rear cog? I'm using a 23 / 48 combination, which suits me pretty well, with its lowest gear around 28 gear inches (i have 16" wheels). Can you do a 25 / 38 or 23 / 36 combination?

The cranks sound perfect, though!

Rudi

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Old 06-13-08, 07:07 AM   #11
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Yes, for my taste it would be. What's your rear cog? I'm using a 23 / 48 combination, which suits me pretty well, with its lowest gear around 28 gear inches (i have 16" wheels). Can you do a 25 / 38 or 23 / 36 combination?

The cranks sound perfect, though!

Rudi

Rear cog is a 25t to go with the 48t front, however as my wife is not a strong cyclist, (YET), I'm thinking maybe using a 44t or 39 or 38t that I have in the "spares box".
The cranks are in matt silver and look "REAL GROOVY", picture: Metallic black frame, seat post, stem, fenders, rear rack and chainring, black or white saddle, all contrasting the silver rims and cranks.
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Old 06-13-08, 07:20 AM   #12
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Rear cog is a 25t to go with the 48t front, however as my wife is not a strong cyclist, (YET), I'm thinking maybe using a 44t or 39 or 38t that I have in the "spares box".
The cranks are in matt silver and look "REAL GROOVY", picture: Metallic black frame, seat post, stem, fenders, rear rack and chainring, black or white saddle, all contrasting the silver rims and cranks.
I vote for 38 / 25! The short crank arms make spinning easier, and mashing harder; so when in doubt go for low gears. It will probably take your wife a while to get used to the idea of spinning, but in the mean time she can just use the higher gears.
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Old 06-13-08, 02:16 PM   #13
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OK, thanks for the info.....next job, brazing on bosses for Vbrakes on her R20.
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