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Old 06-17-08, 07:33 PM   #1
neilfein
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How to remove rear wheel on a Dahon Curve?

this is embarassing, but I tell myself I've had the bike for less than a week.

I got a flat on my Curve D3 on the way home from work today. I had a spare tube, tire levers, and a seatpost pump with me. I was all set the change the tube, when I realized... the Curve doesn't have quick-release wheels, I'm gonna need a wrench to get the wheel off. Grumble grumble.

One cab ride later, I've got the bike on my living room floor and what looks to be the retaining nut off ofthe axle, and the wheel still won't come off. What looks to be a threaded washer is holding the wheel in place under the nut, and I have no idea what to do from there.

The net has yielded no solutions, and I can't find anything by searching BF either. I assume somebody here with a D3 has had to change a flat tire! Anyone know how to do this?

Thanks!
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Old 06-17-08, 08:32 PM   #2
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Are you having problems getting off the washer that looks like this?:

http://www.thorusa.com/dahon/accessories/special.htm
(The lock ring)

If that's the one, its not threaded, its probably just on there tight and wedged against the frame. Just give it a little tap from behind.
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Old 06-17-08, 08:49 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilfein View Post
this is embarassing, but I tell myself I've had the bike for less than a week.

I got a flat on my Curve D3 on the way home from work today. I had a spare tube, tire levers, and a seatpost pump with me. I was all set the change the tube, when I realized... the Curve doesn't have quick-release wheels, I'm gonna need a wrench to get the wheel off. Grumble grumble.

One cab ride later, I've got the bike on my living room floor and what looks to be the retaining nut off ofthe axle, and the wheel still won't come off. What looks to be a threaded washer is holding the wheel in place under the nut, and I have no idea what to do from there.

The net has yielded no solutions, and I can't find anything by searching BF either. I assume somebody here with a D3 has had to change a flat tire! Anyone know how to do this?

Thanks!
Loosen both nuts on either side using a 15mm wrench (box/open end).. pop off plastic shroud covering shift cable... disconnect the shift chain at the connector (probably only hand tight).. disconnect rear brake cable from brake arm (shouldn't need tool) might have to turn in adjuster at rear brake hand lever to get enough cable to disconnect.. whack wheel with hand it should fall to floor... look for object on inside of tire that caused flat.. the washers you question are anti-rotation washers, not threaded and need to engage the dropouts on reassmembly..
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Old 06-18-08, 06:42 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by BruceMetras View Post
Loosen both nuts on either side using a 15mm wrench (box/open end).. pop off plastic shroud covering shift cable... disconnect the shift chain at the connector (probably only hand tight).. disconnect rear brake cable from brake arm (shouldn't need tool) might have to turn in adjuster at rear brake hand lever to get enough cable to disconnect.. whack wheel with hand it should fall to floor... look for object on inside of tire that caused flat.. the washers you question are anti-rotation washers, not threaded and need to engage the dropouts on reassmembly..
Thanks; I'll try that tonight. It's frustrating because I'm hardly a stranger to changing flats, I just couldn't get the wheel off!
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Old 06-18-08, 07:19 AM   #5
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Neil,
do you patch, or replace the tube? If you're used to patching anyway, try patching the tube without taking the wheel out of the frame. It's easier than you'd think! You take one bead of the tire off the rim, as usual; pull the tube out most of the way (leave the valve stem in, for now); inflate enough for the hole to reveal itself; patch it; check the tire for glass, staples, &c; and put it all back together. I never used to do it this way, but since I've been on internally geared hubs, it's become a routine.
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Old 06-18-08, 09:14 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceMetras View Post
Loosen both nuts on either side using a 15mm wrench (box/open end).. pop off plastic shroud covering shift cable... disconnect the shift chain at the connector (probably only hand tight).. disconnect rear brake cable from brake arm (shouldn't need tool) might have to turn in adjuster at rear brake hand lever to get enough cable to disconnect.. whack wheel with hand it should fall to floor... look for object on inside of tire that caused flat.. the washers you question are anti-rotation washers, not threaded and need to engage the dropouts on reassmembly..
Duh. I forgot about the cable (I switched to the 8 speed hub which has the cable under the frame). Just remember, when you reconnect, to finger tighten the cable then back it off a half turn. When I changed my first flat on the Curve, I didn't know this and really did a number on the hub by riding with it tightened incorrectly. There are a couple threads on here about reconnecting the shifter cable properly. I'd hate for you to make the same mistake I did!
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Old 06-18-08, 10:42 AM   #7
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Neil,
do you patch, or replace the tube? If you're used to patching anyway, try patching the tube without taking the wheel out of the frame. It's easier than you'd think! You take one bead of the tire off the rim, as usual; pull the tube out most of the way (leave the valve stem in, for now); inflate enough for the hole to reveal itself; patch it; check the tire for glass, staples, &c; and put it all back together. I never used to do it this way, but since I've been on internally geared hubs, it's become a routine.
Rudi
I was planning on replacing the tube. There's nothing in the tire that shows what kind of a flat it is - no thorns, nails, glass, etc. Maybe a pinch flat?

I'd like to actually take a look inside the tire and see what's going on.
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Old 06-18-08, 08:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceMetras View Post
Loosen both nuts on either side using a 15mm wrench (box/open end).. pop off plastic shroud covering shift cable... disconnect the shift chain at the connector (probably only hand tight).. disconnect rear brake cable from brake arm (shouldn't need tool) might have to turn in adjuster at rear brake hand lever to get enough cable to disconnect.. whack wheel with hand it should fall to floor... look for object on inside of tire that caused flat.. the washers you question are anti-rotation washers, not threaded and need to engage the dropouts on reassmembly..
Thanks! It worked fine, although I was hesitant to use enough force to tap the washers out. I brought it to the shop I bought it at and they walked me through it (after figuring it out themselves). I ended up using the shop tools to change the tube myself, making sure I knew how to do everything before waking out. Even if not for that. I needed to get another tube anyway, once I used the spare I had in the saddlebag.

There was indeed a small hole in the tube, but no foreign objects. Something poked through the tire and was pulled out after piercing the tube, I'd venture.

I will say this, 16" tires are relatively easy to get off the rim. I used a tire lever, but I probably could do it without one in a pinch.
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Old 06-18-08, 08:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caaah View Post
Are you having problems getting off the washer that looks like this?:

http://www.thorusa.com/dahon/accessories/special.htm
(The lock ring)

If that's the one, its not threaded, its probably just on there tight and wedged against the frame. Just give it a little tap from behind.
The one I was referring to is round, but there is one of these on there as well.
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Old 06-24-08, 12:46 PM   #10
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Why can't hubbed bikes have quick release back wheels?
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Old 06-24-08, 01:19 PM   #11
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Why can't hubbed bikes have quick release back wheels?
Quick release spindles go through a hollow axle; some internally geared hubs (like the old Sturmey Archer hubs) shift through a hollow axle; you can't do both. Some of the newer hubs probably could be built with QR, though; and it might be a pretty good idea, as long as the QR holds the wheel as securely as nuts do. My impression is that they do; and at any rate, a stripped or broken QR is easier to replace than a stripped or broken axle.
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