Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: York UK
Bikes: 2X dualdrive Mezzo folder,plus others
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
A few recent questions from my mail box. Hope you don not mind?
Q/before the front wheel quick release mod was introduced (2008?). How important is this in terms of folding speed and/or safety in your opinion?
A/Its fine, the older version has the advantage of it makes a click if you forget to lock it!
Skate wheels with the axle on the outside of the rack for easier rolling.
1/Use long ,(tandem to be sure), Teflon inner cables with a squirt of 3in 1 oil. Tilt the bike to get the oil to flow along all the cables. Clarke tandem are fine I find. Approximately 160cm.
2/Green/wet "Swiss stop" brake pads for a road bike work better than koolstops pads on the rear. The adjustable toe in of the swiss allows a closer clearance with out binding. Kool stops work well on the front.
3/ Clear rollerblade wheels with red cores disperse a rear LED light really well. Thus improving side visibility and safety in the dark!
4/Mezzo stems don't flex much. However if you tighten up the fold pivot it reduces the bar/stem play a little. If you over tighten this though the stem doesn't fold. Generally Creaks can be adjusted out I have always found. ie the rear hinge adjusts, the folding stem mentioned. Make sure you tighten the rear rack bolts occasionally, as this is often the source for creaks. Another source is the seatpost clamp. The newer version closes better for £12 and may get rid of a pre-existing creak as it has a higher collar.
5/ Kojacks tyres are recommended for a road bike.
6/ The later front wheel QR is an improvement. Not sure about safety, but it is sturdier and easier to set up. £100 to retro fit, I sold my old slightly damaged one for £20 on eBay. The older set up tends to make a clicking noise if you ride it after forgetting to lock it which is handy. The real advantage about the new version is if you foolishly (like me) ,forget to close it, it does not get damaged easily, unlike the old version.
7/ bigger chain ring and crank plus bottom bracket is around £58 compete for the D10. Or find a 56t and use a Birdie chainring guard for around £25 or less. Personally I would go for a internal hub gear wheel build up if you want an easy life, or the 3X9/7 if you feel confident about your upgrading skills.
8 Crank, if you change to a carbon hollow tech get the right width bottom bracket or spacer else it will catch the chain guide.
9/ Seat post, no other options. Unless you go custom.
10/ rims, don't know.
11/ Bars, anything that does not interfere with the fold. I use home made,(botched), bullbars. If you want more forward reach options you may have to look at adding a QR stem bolt. I took 2" off my black bike stem to get a lower profile. See little pixels thread on modifying a Aber hallo extension stem.
12/ Internal hub gears are very long lasting and reliable. Many have been working for decades. I know of few if any riders riding a 10 year old cassette cluster. They make alot of sense on a folder, also they gear up folders better than draillers can.
13/ cateye cube light, see Mezzo web site, works well.
14/ Mezzos losing their chains - design fault? Get a Mezzo chain retainer. Its a little plastic clip on the downtube that helps the chain stay on.
Diffculties in ordering parts from web site?
order from a mezzo (ATB) dealer. Anyone who sells marlin MB should be able to order Mezzo parts which in my experience arrive quickly.
I run two bikes one with marathons the other with kojacks. Ones a road bike the other an all-rounder. I also run an extra seat post with a sprung saddle on for light off road. It may be possible to fit an adapted suspension seat post. A pantour hub is possible also (pricey).I would like the later as further possible upgrade for the front. A modified front suspension stem is another possibility. Tyre and tyre pressure is another parameter.
However a stiff mezzo set up like my black bike really moves. Compare it to a very fast hybrib or budget racing bike. I like it that way!
Thoughts about how easy it would be to design an adaptor into the current rear locking mechanism using polyurethane/rubber a la Moulton/Brompton to give it some rear suspension. I have not idea how to do this suggestion.