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Thread: Birdy thread

  1. #126
    crazy bike girl msincredible's Avatar
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    This is how I do my grocery shopping (it's not a long ride), just wanted to share.



    BTW, I don't get shimmy riding like this.
    Countries I've ridden in: US, Canada, Ireland, UK, Germany, Netherlands, France, China, Singapore, Malaysia
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  2. #127
    Car free since 1995 pm124's Avatar
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    That looks very familiar! I'll post my grocery set up when I get back to the States.

    By the way, I'll be in the Bay Area in Feb. in the event that you Bay folks all are still taking rides together.

  3. #128
    crazy bike girl msincredible's Avatar
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    Good timing! We were just talking about it.

    The Pootle Thread
    Countries I've ridden in: US, Canada, Ireland, UK, Germany, Netherlands, France, China, Singapore, Malaysia
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  4. #129
    jur
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    Quote Originally Posted by pm124 View Post
    Hey everyone in North America, the Kojaks are here! http://www.schwalbetires.com/kojak Wire bead is in, Kevlar folding bead is coming. Great news. Now, what do I do with my 349 wheelset?
    I have asked St Kilda Cycles to get some Kojaks in; some weeks ago I went there to get a spare tyre and the Kojaks were in. I bought one but haven't tried it yet. I'm just back from a 10-day loaded tour of Kangaroo Island, so the Kojak is still awaiting testing.
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  5. #130
    Senior Member bhkyte's Avatar
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    Are there any dedicated luggage racks or bags for the birdie,like the mezzo or brompton?
    If there are\how easy are they to get hold off ?

  6. #131
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    The Birdy folding racks are on a number of bikes in this thread.
    For an unobstructed view of these racks, try this link to the Australian Birdy site http://www.birdy.com.au/carriers.htm
    David

  7. #132
    Car free since 1995 pm124's Avatar
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    Black Dog Bicycles is your best bet for anything Birdy if you live in the U.S. They should have all the racks and carriers.

    On another note, check out the new Tune catalog. It has a rocket propelled Birdy on the cover.

  8. #133
    jur
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    Quote Originally Posted by yangmusa View Post
    ... and I don't want to spend any money on the Birdy until I can get the blasted thing to stop creaking I feel a bit fickle to sell a bike because it creaks, but it really annoys the hell out of me.

    This weekend we rode over the Golden Gate Bridge, which is basically a traffic sewer where you can hardly hear yourself think. Afterwards, my wife asked if that was my bike creaking - yes, she even heard it over the sound of traffic!
    My Birdy has picked up a few creaks after the tour of Kangaroo Island. The creaks are only there when I stand on the pedals; that's when there is more torque on the frame. I haven't yet spent effort to trace it, but this is what I intend doing:

    Checking the Birdy for creaks:

    crank arms on BB spindle (RH side done)
    BB spindle in BB shell (a likely suspect)
    pedals in crank arms (I greased those on installation, so not likely)
    chainring bolts (done)

    handlebar in stem clamp (likely)
    stem in stempost clamp (I see the anodising under the QR has rubbed off a little bit; I think this indicates micro movement)
    stempost hinge (small chance)
    fork clamp on steerer tube (fair chance)
    headset bearing cups loose in frame (small chance)

    seatpost in frame (not likely since it happens when I stand)
    saddle rails in seatpost rail clamps (ditto)
    seatpost tilt clamp (ditto)

    wheel quick releases (small chance it's the rear one, since I have removed the front wheel since)
    spoke crossings especially rear wheel (confirmed on my Swift rear and Connie's Reach front wheel - both times I first thought it was stuffed bearings)
    loose spokes
    cassette lock ring (unlikely)

    crack in frame
    crack in seatpost (this once caused a very persistent creak in my Swift - that adapter I made, see my Swift essay last pic, cracked where the seatpost ended inside it. I would grease the frame's seat tube interfaces, and tighten the QRs, with little success, until I one day found the crack when I wasn't looking for it.)

    rear swingarm on spindle clamps
    spindle bearings dry or moving in frame

    The method that works for me is to twist things around until I find an action that can reliably produce the noise. Then I get my son to do the action while I listen and feel around on the frame for the loudest spot.
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  9. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    he method that works for me is to twist things around until I find an action that can reliably produce the noise. Then I get my son to do the action while I listen and feel around on the frame for the loudest spot.
    Good checklist - thanks Jur! I'll print it out and go over everything.. The thing that reliably seems to produce the sound (when not on the bike) is to lift it up by the handlebars & saddle, then place it back down and press down on the saddle. It sounds like the noise comes from the front - but I should get a second person to do it so that I can listen more closely.
    ICE B1, Brompton H6, Schwinn Mirada drop-bar vintage mtb

  10. #135
    jur
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    Quote Originally Posted by yangmusa View Post
    Good checklist - thanks Jur! I'll print it out and go over everything.. The thing that reliably seems to produce the sound (when not on the bike) is to lift it up by the handlebars & saddle, then place it back down and press down on the saddle. It sounds like the noise comes from the front - but I should get a second person to do it so that I can listen more closely.
    2 items that I left off the list are the elastomers. A spray with WD-40 can silence them for a short time, so that can be an indicator if they are noisy.
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

  11. #136
    jur
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    My Birdy has picked up a few creaks after the tour of Kangaroo Island...
    .
    .
    .
    handlebar in stem clamp (likely)
    stem in stempost clamp (I see the anodising under the QR has rubbed off a little bit; I think this indicates micro movement)
    .
    .
    .
    Well I put a very thin film of grease between the stem and stempost where the QR clamps, and between the stem faceplates and handlebar, and this cured my creaks.
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

  12. #137
    Cycling Hack bikinbob's Avatar
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    Jur (and friends),

    About a double crank vs a hub for the Birdy? Don't want to loose the clean feel / efficeny of a derailer setup? Or is the range of say a Nexus 8 not enough for your commute / touring?

    Bob G.

  13. #138
    jur
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikinbob View Post
    Jur (and friends),

    About a double crank vs a hub for the Birdy? Don't want to loose the clean feel / efficeny of a derailer setup? Or is the range of say a Nexus 8 not enough for your commute / touring?

    Bob G.
    I put a double chainwheel on my Birdy just to see, but the chain rubbed so I took it off again.

    The 300% gear range of 11-32T cassette is adequate for me. I have a Schlumpf bottom bracket ready to go but due to the fact it's not absolutely necessary, it's still sitting there...
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  14. #139
    ...poet... timo888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    2 items that I left off the list are the elastomers. A spray with WD-40 can silence them for a short time, so that can be an indicator if they are noisy.
    May I recommend an Aussie product, Inox-MX3.

    Last edited by timo888; 01-24-09 at 09:54 PM.
    novis rebus studentem

  15. #140
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    So, I went through Jur's list, point for point. And I think I've finally solved it The bearings on the front suspension pivot were dirty with a black powdery substance. I think the fork may have a slight manufacturing defect, because the alignment of the bearings was a little off - this may have caused the rubbing. On one side the bearing just slipped out. On the other, I had to twist and wiggle the fork because both sides of the pivot were not aligned 100%. Not far out, but not quite right.

    Anyway, I cleaned them up and packed them with grease before reassembly. I did a quick test ride, and it was smooth and quiet. Joy! I'm going for a 40 mile ride tomorrow, so that would be the final proof... I'm hoping for the best!

    [EDIT]: to anyone who has a creaky Birdy and wants to grease their pivots - note that the manual states when reassembling you must use thread locking compound to hold the two halves of the pivot bolt together.
    Last edited by yangmusa; 02-04-09 at 02:31 PM.
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  16. #141
    jur
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    Quote Originally Posted by yangmusa View Post
    So, I went through Jur's list, point for point. And I think I've finally solved it The bearings on the front suspension pivot were dirty with a black powdery substance.
    And that's the one item NOT on my list!!
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  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    And that's the one item NOT on my list!!
    He he, yeah. Well, your list got me warmed up, and while I was at it I just kept going trying one thing after another..
    ICE B1, Brompton H6, Schwinn Mirada drop-bar vintage mtb

  18. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by yangmusa View Post
    I'm going for a 40 mile ride tomorrow, so that would be the final proof... I'm hoping for the best!
    Phew, the ride was great - no creaking.

    Now I can start ponder whether or not to fit Stelvios... The Mrs' TSR has Stelvios on, and she consistently rolls away from me downhill. Could of course be her smaller aerodynamic profile
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    jur
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    Quote Originally Posted by yangmusa View Post
    Phew, the ride was great - no creaking.


    Quote Originally Posted by yangmusa View Post
    Now I can start ponder whether or not to fit Stelvios... The Mrs' TSR has Stelvios on, and she consistently rolls away from me downhill. Could of course be her smaller aerodynamic profile
    My Birdy seems about 5% faster with the Kojak on the front compared to the Maxxis on the front. Back is same, a Plus, pumped to 90psi.
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    jur
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    I have been logging some commuting times...
    Birdy with Maxxis Birdy tyre on the front, and Marathon Plus on the back, both pumped to approx 60-70psi - 60min for med-hard effort.
    Birdy with Kojak on the front, Plus on the back - 57min for med-hard effort, so perhaps 5% faster.
    Swift - 58min medium effort.

    I find it quite hard to judge effort level on the Swift. because it is so light and nimble, I think perhaps I put in slightly more effort that what I feel.

    Anyway, it is slightly surprising to see that there is actually very little difference between the Birdy with good tyres and the Swift. Where the Birdy feels a bit harder is on uphills - maybe that's why I think the Swift effort is medium and the Birdy med-hard.

    So perhaps if I go the weight weenie way with the Birdy it will be as fast as the Swift. Right now I am toying with the idea of 20" 406mm wheels.
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  21. #146
    hipster traffic dodger ChiapasFixed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    I have been logging some commuting times...
    Birdy with Maxxis Birdy tyre on the front, and Marathon Plus on the back, both pumped to approx 60-70psi - 60min for med-hard effort.
    Birdy with Kojak on the front, Plus on the back - 57min for med-hard effort, so perhaps 5% faster.
    Swift - 58min medium effort.

    I find it quite hard to judge effort level on the Swift. because it is so light and nimble, I think perhaps I put in slightly more effort that what I feel.

    Anyway, it is slightly surprising to see that there is actually very little difference between the Birdy with good tyres and the Swift. Where the Birdy feels a bit harder is on uphills - maybe that's why I think the Swift effort is medium and the Birdy med-hard.

    So perhaps if I go the weight weenie way with the Birdy it will be as fast as the Swift. Right now I am toying with the idea of 20" 406mm wheels.
    so.... if you could only have ONE folder??
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  22. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    Birdy with Kojak on the front, Plus on the back - 57min for med-hard effort, so perhaps 5% faster. Swift - 58min medium effort.

    Anyway, it is slightly surprising to see that there is actually very little difference between the Birdy with good tyres and the Swift. Where the Birdy feels a bit harder is on uphills - maybe that's why I think the Swift effort is medium and the Birdy med-hard.

    So perhaps if I go the weight weenie way with the Birdy it will be as fast as the Swift. Right now I am toying with the idea of 20" 406mm wheels.
    Interesting! I wonder what the time would be on the Birdy with a Kojak on the back as well plus a few other parts upgrades? Schhwalbe North America shows the Kojak as being a much faster tire.

    I'm not sure why you want to go with 406 wheels. Is is to get a lower cadence at top speed? It sounds like a lot of work, Don't you need to add special fittings on the drop outs?

    David

  23. #148
    jur
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    Quote Originally Posted by energyandair View Post
    Interesting! I wonder what the time would be on the Birdy with a Kojak on the back as well plus a few other parts upgrades? Schhwalbe North America shows the Kojak as being a much faster tire.

    I'm not sure why you want to go with 406 wheels. Is is to get a lower cadence at top speed? It sounds like a lot of work, Don't you need to add special fittings on the drop outs?

    David
    One of the reasons is to get the same wheel size for all my bikes. Right now, besides the brakes that won't work, I can put my Swift wheels on the Birdy with no other problems. If I put Paul MotoBMX brakes on the Birdy, then I can freely choose.

    But you're right... if the Kojaks by themselves yields great performance not to mention light weight, then there is little reason. In that case the only remaining reason would be to go off-roading with fat knobbly BMX tyres (which I don't know if they would fit without hitting the crowns).
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  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    I have been logging some commuting times...
    Birdy with Maxxis Birdy tyre on the front, and Marathon Plus on the back, both pumped to approx 60-70psi - 60min for med-hard effort.
    Birdy with Kojak on the front, Plus on the back - 57min for med-hard effort, so perhaps 5% faster.
    Swift - 58min medium effort.

    I find it quite hard to judge effort level on the Swift. because it is so light and nimble, I think perhaps I put in slightly more effort that what I feel.

    Anyway, it is slightly surprising to see that there is actually very little difference between the Birdy with good tyres and the Swift. Where the Birdy feels a bit harder is on uphills - maybe that's why I think the Swift effort is medium and the Birdy med-hard.

    So perhaps if I go the weight weenie way with the Birdy it will be as fast as the Swift. Right now I am toying with the idea of 20" 406mm wheels.
    Time to hook up the HRM on your commute... it'll be easy to see your exertion level with a few averages logged... Birdys on Stelvios fly also.. but the Kojak is probably a better compromise..

  25. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceMetras View Post
    Birdys on Stelvios fly also.. but the Kojak is probably a better compromise..
    Darn, I had pretty much decided to get Stelvios. Black Dog has them for $27. But now this second mention of Kojaks, and Calhoun has those for $27.99...

    So, the Kojak is heavier, but in return a little more robust? On the Schwalbe site they rate it a bar faster than the Stelvio - really?

    SWMBO has Stelvios on her TSR, and hasn't had a puncture since she got the bike 2 years ago. And she doesn't just ride it in Marin either, it gets punished commuting in SF.

    Obviously, I don't want to invite more punctures than necessary. But the Birdy isn't my primary commuter (more my weekend fun bike) so I'd rather go with whichever tire has the performance edge.
    ICE B1, Brompton H6, Schwinn Mirada drop-bar vintage mtb

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