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Old 06-25-10, 09:20 AM   #1
phillyskyline
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Raleigh Twenty kickstand replacement

Sadly, the kickstand on our 1972 Twenty kicked the bucket recently. I think the pin broke, though it's hard to tell through all the grease and grime. What can we replace it with? Is it a standard size? If it's a simple fix, I'd rather do it myself, but I know removing the kickstand can be a real pain, so I don't know if replacing it would be any easier.
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Old 06-25-10, 12:52 PM   #2
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same thing happened to my brothers R20 ..was riding along and the pin broke and the kickstand eventually just fell off. The pin is replaceable and a simple fix hope you did not lose the spring. I'd go to a specialty nuts and bolts store to get them bring the kickstand arm with you to match the hole size. the tools needed are a hammer and pin tool of the same diameter or a regular nail of the same diameter might also work work. the pin tool or a nail is used to drive the expanding pin into its place or to remove it. suggest ground the nail point flat with a grinder or cut the tip with a hacksaw.

i've seen owners of R20 remove the stock kickstand and grind off the mount to reduce weight and use aftermarket kickstands like a Swiss made Pletscher[alloy] that mounts on the chain stays or a Wald USA stand[steel] that mounts on the rear axle. I've tried both and even got a Pletscher double kickstand but I always worry about pinching the stays a common occurrence on clamp style kickstands.

its an easy fix for sure its the grease and grime is whats probably scaring you..clean it off and you'll see how easy and simple the mechanism is..
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Old 06-25-10, 12:59 PM   #3
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1. Detemine the type of kickstand you have:

Sheldon Brown went into some detail with this:

Kickstand
A prop for holding a bicycle upright when it is parked. These are called kickstands because they are operated by the foot. There are several kinds:
  • Clamped to the chainstays just behind the bottom bracket, and supporting the bicycle leaning to its left.
  • Also leaning the bicycle to the left, but attached to a special bracket in the bottom-bracket area.
  • Mounted behind the bottom bracket and with two legs either side that stow under the chain stays. This type holds the bicycle upright,
  • Mounted to the left chainstay and seatstay just if front of the rear hub. This is the only type of kickstand that does not interfere with a crank. If the bicycle is rolled backwards with the kickstand down, the others can be damaged, or damage the chainstays.
-http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html

Most people usually extensively modify their own bike into whatever pleases them. Some even report that they only use the barest of parts from the original bike as they purchased it and the rest of the parts are sold, traded, whatever away. Sheldon Brown appeared to be one of those types and he did not place much interest in kickstands as they are not critical to the bike's function beyond a passing reference to them like the above.

I would try to cannibalized that part if I could from a matching donor bike. If not possible, go to the bike shops that have older bikes and see what they have, visit online and see if other Twenty or similar owners want to part with theirs.

Or you can make a crude, but effective stand using PVC Pipes:
http://www.pvcworkshop.com/
Don't Miss This Bike Rack-Bigger Than What You Need, But the Same Principle Application:
http://www.pvcworkshop.com/PVC%20Bike%20Rack.pdf
Plus:
http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-use-pvc-pipe-to-make-furniture
Another Bike Rack:
http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-make-a-bike-rack

I have used these in my home for various odd little projects. Why not a quickly assembled "kickstand."

Last edited by folder fanatic; 06-25-10 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 06-26-10, 08:39 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies and helpful info. We want to keep the original look of the bike. Other than a new Brooks saddle, new tires, brake pads, and cork grips, it's completely original at this point. It's our quick errand bike to pick up dinner, a 6-pack, etc, so the kickstand is quite useful.

I looked more closely and it's definitely the pin that broke. The spring is still attached, totally gunked up with grease. If I can't find a replacement pin at a hardware store, I may just take it to the LBS and see what they can do.
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Old 06-26-10, 11:08 AM   #5
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Your welcome

Quote:
I looked more closely and it's definitely the pin that broke. The spring is still attached, totally gunked up with grease. If I can't find a replacement pin at a hardware store, I may just take it to the LBS and see what they can do.
a replacement pin is a common hardware item call your local Ace Hardware or specialty nuts&bolts hardware they have them in stock for sure. I think the correct name for those is "Steel Spring Pin" or "Expanding Steel Spring Pin" normally they come zinc plated but i've seen Stainless Steel[marine] versions and are probably better because they don't rust? but not sure if it holds better than zinc plated steel versions the more common type.

the only reason i suggested a specialty hardware store is they normally carry a higher grade hardware than regular hardware stores ie home depot/lowes etc. A marine supplier like WestMarine if you have them in your area will have them too in Stainless version for sure. the PIN PUNCH TOOL im mentioning earlier is optional only if you have to remove the Spring Pin or whats left of it but you probably don't need it to install one, but you do if you have to remove it. good luck
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Old 06-26-10, 11:10 AM   #6
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Your welcome

Quote:
I looked more closely and it's definitely the pin that broke. The spring is still attached, totally gunked up with grease. If I can't find a replacement pin at a hardware store, I may just take it to the LBS and see what they can do.
a replacement pin is a common hardware item call your local Ace Hardware or specialty nuts&bolts hardware they have them in stock for sure. I think the correct name for those is "Steel Spring Pin" or "Expanding Steel Spring Pin" normally they come zinc plated but i've seen Stainless Steel[marine] versions and are probably better because they don't rust? but not sure if it holds better than zinc plated steel versions the more common type.

the only reason i suggested a specialty hardware store is they normally carry a higher grade hardware than regular hardware stores ie home depot/lowes etc. A marine supplier like WestMarine if you have them in your area will have them too in Stainless version for sure. the PIN PUNCH TOOL im mentioning earlier is optional only if you have to remove the Spring Pin or whats left of it but you probably don't need it to install one, but you do if you have to remove it. good luck
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Old 06-26-10, 06:30 PM   #7
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The pin your talking about has several names,the one quoted above and also a "roll pin". This may help you find it depending on what the individual store calls it. You dont want to use anything pointy to push it out or in as it will go inside pin and spread it out and not move. So as said above, if you dont have a suitable punch set with a "drift punch", a nail very close to size of hole will suffice with point ground off.

Last edited by ddez; 06-26-10 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 06-27-10, 06:32 AM   #8
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Just to add my 2 cents to this discussion, instead of a nail, I would use a drill bit the same size as the hole. A nail could possibly bend, where a drill bit, because it's made of hardened steel, would not. I also agree on the term "roll pin". Any good hardware store such as Ace or True Value would have these in stock and any store employee should know what they are. If they don't, you may be in the wrong store.

This is what roll pins looks like:


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