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Thread: Primo Tokyo!

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    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Primo Tokyo!

    Hello All,

    I just made the most significant change to my Citizen Tokyo yet! Two Primo Comet 16 x 1.35 305 steel bead tires with presta tubes. With this one low cost change I dropped 1.5 pounds from the bike. It now hits the scales at 24.05 pounds!



    The really amazing thing is the decreased rolling resistance which translates into speed. The handling and stability of the bike has also increased dramatically. The speed wobble that I was experiencing on the rear wheel with the stock 16 x 1.75 305 tires (which resemble the Big Apple or Hookworm tires) has disappeared. I just did a hilly 5 mile loop and felt like I was very close to matching my road bike speeds. Flying!


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    I didn't comment when you first posted about this bike, but I just have to say I think it looks awesome! Even more awesome now with the primo comets.

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    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan162 View Post
    I didn't comment when you first posted about this bike, but I just have to say I think it looks awesome! Even more awesome now with the primo comets.
    Thanks for the comment. I must say that I'm a bit shocked by the performance I experienced today. I was always a bit skeptical about forum members saying they are going to sell their road, touring, mtn, or hybird bikes because their folder does everything as well or better, but this opened my eyes. I think my next adventure will be my entire 24 mile RT commute to see the differences between my CX and road bikes.
    Last edited by jahwind; 09-18-10 at 09:59 PM.

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    jur
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    You have absolutely transformed this bike!

    [edit] Just you wait till you tried a Swift!
    Last edited by jur; 09-18-10 at 09:25 PM.
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

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    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    You have absolutely transformed this bike!

    [edit] Just you wait till you tried a Swift!
    I'll keep an eye out for a Swift.
    I've already been spotting quite a folders in local area just recently, but unfortunately I haven't had a chance to speak with any of them.
    I work at a University and school begins next week and I've already spotted a few students riding folders around campus.
    I was able to ID a Downtube full suspension bike the other day.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jahwind View Post
    Thanks for the comment. I must say that I'm a bit shocked by the performance I experienced today. I was always a bit skeptical about forum members saying they are going to sell their road, touring, mtn, or hybird bikes because their folder does everything as well or better, but this opened my eyes. I think my next adventure will be my entire 24 mile RT commute to see the differences between my CX and road bikes.
    I felt the same way and now I have one bike...a BF Tikit. The only full size ride that I can really see myself getting is a FS MTB.

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    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by intheways View Post
    I felt the same way and now I have one bike...a BF Tikit. The only full size ride that I can really see myself getting is a FS MTB.
    I like the BF Tikit too. It is probably my first choice if I need to replace the Tokyo. I still have to see how the Tokyo holds up over time.

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    Senior Member edwong3's Avatar
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    Impressive! Who would have imagined that a mild mannered Citizenbike Tokyo could be turned into a quite the "mover"!

    I bet these modifications would be awesome on another inexpensive 16 inch folder. The Kent Compact 16 with it's aluminum frame.
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    Getting Schwalbe Kojaks on my Dahon changed the nature of the bike entirely. The tires make a huge difference to the efficiency of the bike.

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    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by puppypilgrim View Post
    Getting Schwalbe Kojaks on my Dahon changed the nature of the bike entirely. The tires make a huge difference to the efficiency of the bike.
    Kojaks would have been my first choice if they were available in 305's, but I'm very impressed with the Comet's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by edwong3 View Post
    Impressive! Who would have imagined that a mild mannered Citizenbike Tokyo could be turned into a quite the "mover"!

    I bet these modifications would be awesome on another inexpensive 16 inch folder. The Kent Compact 16 with it's aluminum frame.
    I was thinking the same thing, especially now that Kent has put the bottom bracket shell in the right place. I would go for it, but I had the earlier kent - the one with the bottom bracket too far back, and the seatpost was too short for me.

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    I've been looking for a 16" wheel bike to play around with and I'm pretty sure exactly the same bike is sold under a bunch of brands in the UK. I think I'm going to see what I can do with it once I find one for the right price.

    Have you had any problem with derailleur ground clearance?

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    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Have you had any problem with derailleur ground clearance?
    No problems with a short cage.
    However you should check my other post to see the way the derailleur is set up.
    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...hlight=jahwind
    It doesn't have a hanger, so it is not the best set up.

    JahWind

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    jahwind, could you do me a favour and tell me the internal diameter of your seat post (the post, not the seat tube)? The outer diameter is 31.8mm, correct?

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    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    jahwind, could you do me a favour and tell me the internal diameter of your seat post (the post, not the seat tube)? The outer diameter is 31.8mm, correct?
    The OD of my seat tube is 38.1 mm

    The ID of my seat tube is 31.8 mm
    The plastic shim in the seat tube is 31.8 mm

    The OD of my current seatpost is 31.8 mm
    I can't get an ID of the seatpost because it is flared inward on both ends.


    I hope this helps
    JahWind
    Last edited by jahwind; 09-29-10 at 07:45 PM.

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    You've swapped out the original seat post, or is that the original (28.6)?

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    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    You've swapped out the original seat post, or is that the original (28.6)?
    Sorry I gave the wrong size for the OD of the seatpost, it is 31.8.
    It is stock.

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    I just acquired a bike almost identical to yours, jahwind, except the frame is alumininum. I'm in the process of checking it over and plotting what I can do with it, but I'm starting to think I might have been better with a steel frame so that I could install a narrower rear hub, either singlespeed or a Sturmey AW. . . plus from initial inspection there seems to a fair bit of slop in the hinges as a result of manufacturing tolerances and perhaps with the frame hinge on a steel frame that'd be easier to correct.

    The play in the frame hinge means that when the bike is folded there's about an inch of vertical movement between the front and rear wheel originating at that hinge. This means that with the handlebars folded to the outside of the frame the bike is unstable and can easily fall over towards the handlebar side, as the front wheel moves upwards (from the frame hinge). I think you might have solved this problem (if your frame has the same problem) by reversing the front wheel on folding which effectively lowers it. (I removed the shim with indentation that prevents the handebars from being reversed).

    Another thing I notice is that whatever varnish/paint has been used on the aluminium, it appears to flake off extremely easily.

    The seat post diameter is the same as yours which allows for the insertion of a 27.2 post inside and a 31.8 clamp over the top, i.e. any suspension seat post could be compatible.

  19. #19
    BikingYupik BikeKraft's Avatar
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    Hey, you just described the hinge on my wife's Citizen Bike Barcelona. Even my wife, at 120 lbs, may be too much for this frame. I'm still thinking about a way to improve the frame/lock system short of welding it solid.
    If I come up with anything I'll post it.

    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    I just acquired a bike almost identical to yours, jahwind, except the frame is alumininum. I'm in the process of checking it over and plotting what I can do with it, but I'm starting to think I might have been better with a steel frame so that I could install a narrower rear hub, either singlespeed or a Sturmey AW. . . plus from initial inspection there seems to a fair bit of slop in the hinges as a result of manufacturing tolerances and perhaps with the frame hinge on a steel frame that'd be easier to correct.

    The play in the frame hinge means that when the bike is folded there's about an inch of vertical movement between the front and rear wheel originating at that hinge. This means that with the handlebars folded to the outside of the frame the bike is unstable and can easily fall over towards the handlebar side, as the front wheel moves upwards (from the frame hinge). I think you might have solved this problem (if your frame has the same problem) by reversing the front wheel on folding which effectively lowers it. (I removed the shim with indentation that prevents the handebars from being reversed).

    Another thing I notice is that whatever varnish/paint has been used on the aluminium, it appears to flake off extremely easily.

    The seat post diameter is the same as yours which allows for the insertion of a 27.2 post inside and a 31.8 clamp over the top, i.e. any suspension seat post could be compatible.
    a driver's test is not an IQ test

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    I ought to clarify that so far I've not detected any play in the frame hinge when unfolded which I'm sure is the problem you're referring to. What I have noticed is that the frame hinge bolt must be tightened properly at both ends; it's a 3 piece construction with an allen bolt either end rather than a 2 piece.

  21. #21
    Junior Member jahwind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    I think you might have solved this problem (if your frame has the same problem) by reversing the front wheel on folding which effectively lowers it. (I removed the shim with indentation that prevents the handebars from being reversed).
    .
    Good luck on your new project! Since it is aluminum you should save a few pounds. Hopefully ride quality will be okay. I didn't really have any particular reason for folding my bike the way I do other than the fact it is more compact, it works with my bars, and I like the look of a folded bike when the wheels are parallel to each other. Since my Tokyo is only a few months old the hinges are fine so far.

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