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  1. #1
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    How Do I Make My Speed TR Lighter in Weight.

    hi all,

    just got a Speed TR as a replacement for my Tikit (trust me - it's not the best decision i made and had a separate thread about this). since i may be using this bike while looking for a Tikit ( i don't want to sell it now as i might end up with nothing), i wanted to ask my fellow members here if anyone had done some modifications on their TR to make it lighter. currently the weight is listed as 29 something lbs. (quite heavy). my first plan of attack is to change the tires to a KOJAK which will save me about 1.5 lbs (just ordered from THOR). i also plan on changing the handle bar to a Ritchey and will save me about .5 lbs. this two changes alone will shave about 2 lbs from the current weight. anything else i can do ? will changing the front rim to a kinetix pro (i really don't want the front dynamo hub and will eventually change it) save me a lot of weight ?

    thanks again,
    vic

    On a side note - i had my first TR ride yesterday and i am liking the SRAM DD a lot. way better than what was on my TIKIT. This single piece of equipment is what really sold me on the TR.
    Last edited by vmaniqui; 09-27-10 at 04:45 PM.

  2. #2
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    If you dont need the lights get rid of the front rim and get a lighter one. I changed it on my MuXl and it made a difference. I didnt weigh it though. Seatpost without a pump.

  3. #3
    jur
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    My rule is wheels are done first - the most savings for the least amount can be found there. The front wheel is indeed an obvious choice - you'll save around a pound or so.

    If you are really interested in light weight, it is no good trying to improve the Speed TR if you like the dualdrive - that adds a lot of weight. Far better to carefully save the pennies and get something lighter from the word go.
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

  4. #4
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    Surely just take off all accessories, besides those you can shave off a bunch of grams here or there but it all adds up to a serious monetary investment which is pointless if you're getting rid of the bike.
    I ended up weighing everything on my Vitesse to figure out how to cut down weight but I started out with some crappy components.
    I don't think a rim change will shed much weight, you need an entire Kinetix Pro front wheel for it to be worthwhile. I might have made some errors in my measurements but I don't think a kinetix pro rim is that much lighter than the lower end rims, but it's strength allows for low spoke count.

  5. #5
    LET'S ROLL 1nterceptor's Avatar
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    1 Do you need a front and rear rack?
    Maybe you can remove one or both.

    2 Lighter seat? Selle, Fizik, etc.

    3 Do you need the fenders?

    4 Lighter pedals.

  6. #6
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    The post pump seat post weighs a lot, switching to an I-beam set up will lose maybe 400 grams.

  7. #7
    cyclopath vik's Avatar
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    Spending money trying to lighten a bike you plan to replace is a total waste of time and money especially since the Tikit has a different wheel size.

    I would ride the bike as is....make the best of it and use the $$ you'll save to get a Tikit sooner.
    safe riding - Vik
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    My rule is wheels are done first - the most savings for the least amount can be found there. The front wheel is indeed an obvious choice - you'll save around a pound or so.

    yes. i was thinking about this. tires and change the front rim to a dahon kinetix pro ( is it worth it).

    If you are really interested in light weight, it is no good trying to improve the Speed TR if you like the dualdrive - that adds a lot of weight. Far better to carefully save the pennies and get something lighter from the word go.
    i like the sram dd and if i can get some weight off from other components then it might work better for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    Surely just take off all accessories, besides those you can shave off a bunch of grams here or there but it all adds up to a serious monetary investment which is pointless if you're getting rid of the bike.
    I ended up weighing everything on my Vitesse to figure out how to cut down weight but I started out with some crappy components.
    I don't think a rim change will shed much weight, you need an entire Kinetix Pro front wheel for it to be worthwhile. I might have made some errors in my measurements but I don't think a kinetix pro rim is that much lighter than the lower end rims, but it's strength allows for low spoke count.
    so do you think getting a kinetix pro will not be worth it to shave off some weight to the TR ?

    Quote Originally Posted by 1nterceptor View Post
    1 Do you need a front and rear rack?
    Maybe you can remove one or both.

    2 Lighter seat? Selle, Fizik, etc.

    3 Do you need the fenders?

    4 Lighter pedals.
    i don't actually need the racks. i plan also on removing them. i change the saddle to a selle italia already but couldn't find a lighter pedals except the mks folding pedals i have lying around. might be lighter than the mks that comes with the TR.

    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    The post pump seat post weighs a lot, switching to an I-beam set up will lose maybe 400 grams.
    yes. this might follow. if only i can get a regular seat post. who wants to trade my seatpost (with pump) to a seatpost without the pump ?

    Quote Originally Posted by vik View Post
    Spending money trying to lighten a bike you plan to replace is a total waste of time and money especially since the Tikit has a different wheel size.

    I would ride the bike as is....make the best of it and use the $$ you'll save to get a Tikit sooner.
    vik and all - i was hoping that if i can lighten these tank a bit comparable to the tikit, i might rethink and keep it and stop my illusion about getting another tikit. for the price i paid for this bike it might be worth keeping it. as you know when i took it for a spin yesterday i love the gearings and the sram dd and my biggest and only complain is its weight.

    my plan to lessen the weight is:

    1) change the tires from big apple to kojak.
    2) remove front and rear racks
    3) change front rim to a kinetix pro.
    4) change the front handlebar to a ritchey handlebar and shorten the lenght to 2 inches.
    5) remove the Ergon MR2, Magnesium bar end and put a regular Ergon grip
    6) change MKS EZY quick release pedals to an mks fd-6 folding alloy pedals.

    anything else i can do ?

    do you think this will work to have my own DAHON SPEED TR in green color....if i can do this, then i might rethink and just keep it and stop dreaming about getting another tikit.
    Last edited by vmaniqui; 09-27-10 at 10:48 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member stevegor's Avatar
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    ....... maybe lay off the Hamburgers, cakes, booze and stuff?
    I'm lame,
    I'm sore,
    I'm stonkered.

  10. #10
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    I took the post pump out of my seat post when I got my Dahon which according to my scales shed 203g. But that sort of thing could affect resale value, if money's no object better to get an i-beam seat post. I recorded the post pump seat post as 760 grams whereas an SDG seat post and saddle combined are 610 grams. I think the newer Kore equivalent is a bit heavier though that may be because it's longer.

  11. #11
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    If your MKZ Ezy pedals are the same as mine then they only weigh around 350g for both, I don't know what the fd-6 weighs but I ended up getting some tioga super-light pedals at 200g /pair. . . but even that's not a huge reduction so the fd-6 might not be worthwhile.

  12. #12
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    But it sounds like you'd be best trying to exchange it for a Mu P24 and not paying anything extra.

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    Do you need both forks? You could create a unifork design.

    Or, unicycles are coming back.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    But it sounds like you'd be best trying to exchange it for a Mu P24 and not paying anything extra.
    I checked that out too but mu24 is about 26lbs so it is just 3 lbs lighter than my tr and yet the tr is a steel which I am liking more than aluminum.

  15. #15
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    I know you can save ALOT of weight just getting rid of the big apples to kojaks but are you ok with the riding being alot harder and less forgiving? I noticed that right away when I had some fat 70psi kenda's and went to 120psi kojaks. The ride was rock hard, feeling every pebble I ran through. But it was oh sooo smooth and efficient on the good roads. I guess that depends on how good is your bicycling infrastructure.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by havm66z View Post
    Do you need both forks? You could create a unifork design.

    Or, unicycles are coming back.
    I was thinking about that too but might end up at Barnum circus.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azreal911 View Post
    I know you can save ALOT of weight just getting rid of the big apples to kojaks but are you ok with the riding being alot harder and less forgiving? I noticed that right away when I had some fat 70psi kenda's and went to 120psi kojaks. The ride was rock hard, feeling every pebble I ran through. But it was oh sooo smooth and efficient on the good roads. I guess that depends on how good is your bicycling infrastructure.
    Yes I wouldn't mind a little bit of harsh road feeling. We had more good road up here so might be ok with the kojaks. Although we have more hills to climb so the reason I really wanted the SRAM dd. Thanks..

  18. #18
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    So I can pump the kojaks up to 120psi ? I always pumped my tires to max. I like it when my tires are hard. And I love the feeling when I run over the pebbles and could hear or feel it.

  19. #19
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    Incidently, my BA 2x20s weighed an average of 615g, loads more than stated on the schwalbe website.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmaniqui View Post
    Yes I wouldn't mind a little bit of harsh road feeling. We had more good road up here so might be ok with the kojaks. Although we have more hills to climb so the reason I really wanted the SRAM dd. Thanks..
    Yeah I forgot you are in SF and you do need all the efficiency you can get if you are one of those masochists that like to ride right through the hills instead of around it. I dunno how fun is a 45 degree incline but going down hill must be friggin scary and pray that my brakes work! . You should try doing time trials down lombard street cause with kojaks on my strida I was confident enough to lean 45 degrees on downhill turns with that contraption when i'm around a slight downhill hitting 30km/h and don't want to slow down much.

  21. #21
    New usename ThorUSA brakemeister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azreal911 View Post
    I know you can save ALOT of weight just getting rid of the big apples to kojaks but are you ok with the riding being alot harder and less forgiving? I noticed that right away when I had some fat 70psi kenda's and went to 120psi kojaks. The ride was rock hard, feeling every pebble I ran through. But it was oh sooo smooth and efficient on the good roads. I guess that depends on how good is your bicycling infrastructure.
    no no .... Kojaks are rated between 55 to 95 psi....
    120 will destroy them and even if the tires will hold it it surely is way above their limit. No wonder they feel harsh ....
    I like mine at around 75 lbs... fast enough but take off the edge ....

  22. #22
    cyclopath vik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmaniqui View Post
    So I can pump the kojaks up to 120psi ? I always pumped my tires to max. I like it when my tires are hard. And I love the feeling when I run over the pebbles and could hear or feel it.
    Typically I would point out that inflating tires to the max doesn't make a lot of sense since they are uncomfortable and not any faster [in fact likely slower] then tires inflated appropriately for the load they are carrying, but your the first person who's mentioned they like the ride of rock hard tires....in that case higher rolling resistance may be worth that benefit....
    safe riding - Vik
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmaniqui View Post
    So I can pump the kojaks up to 120psi ? I always pumped my tires to max. I like it when my tires are hard. And I love the feeling when I run over the pebbles and could hear or feel it.
    OOoops don't pump a 80-90psi kojak to 120! my kojaks on my strida are the 18 (erto 355) inches. they have a max printed rating of 115psi and roll like butter compared of my 70 psi kenda's. I pumped it up to 120psi cause by the time my pump machine says 120 and when you pull out the pumps valve there is ALWAYS a PSSSST for like 1/4 of a second which is like 3-4 psi gone in that short time! that way when i'm actually done it's at the actual max of 115-116psi. I know it sounds weird but I do this once a week to maintain maximum efficiency. At the moment i'm riding a 18x1.5 marathon in the back at 85-90 psi (85 rating) it rides nice but i'm hopefully getting a skinnier tire like the innova's instead of a marathon plus cause it's lighter and 1/3 of the price! plus I can mount my fenders on there once again.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azreal911 View Post
    OOoops don't pump a 80-90psi kojak to 120! my kojaks on my strida are the 18 (erto 355) inches. they have a max printed rating of 115psi and roll like butter compared of my 70 psi kenda's. I pumped it up to 120psi cause by the time my pump machine says 120 and when you pull out the pumps valve there is ALWAYS a PSSSST for like 1/4 of a second which is like 3-4 psi gone in that short time! that way when i'm actually done it's at the actual max of 115-116psi. I know it sounds weird but I do this once a week to maintain maximum efficiency. At the moment i'm riding a 18x1.5 marathon in the back at 85-90 psi (85 rating) it rides nice but i'm hopefully getting a skinnier tire like the innova's instead of a marathon plus cause it's lighter and 1/3 of the price! plus I can mount my fenders on there once again.
    that make sense. i know that extra hssss will give you 5 psi off your reading. i checked innova and quite interesting tires i may say. they've got colors too. http://www.bicyclehero.com/us/innova...35-orange.html

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azreal911 View Post
    Yeah I forgot you are in SF and you do need all the efficiency you can get if you are one of those masochists that like to ride right through the hills instead of around it. I dunno how fun is a 45 degree incline but going down hill must be friggin scary and pray that my brakes work! . You should try doing time trials down lombard street cause with kojaks on my strida I was confident enough to lean 45 degrees on downhill turns with that contraption when i'm around a slight downhill hitting 30km/h and don't want to slow down much.
    great that gives me more confidence about the kojaks. athough i was at first contemplating on getting the stelvio. but reviews aren't that great so i decided to go with the kojaks.

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