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Old 11-20-10, 04:58 PM   #1
social suicide
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Cold setting a Raleigh Twenty. Anybody tried it?

I would like to put one of these http://bike.shimano.com/publish/cont...00.-type-.html on my R20 but the specs have me crazy. 185 OLD and an axle length of 135? How much wider will I have to push the rear out? I figure the price on the 8 will drop once the 11 comes out - or not.
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Old 11-20-10, 05:15 PM   #2
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I think the OLD and axle length are backwards.

anyways, an R20 rear is spaced at 114mm so getting it out by 10mm each side, for a total of 20mm, would require more than cold setting.
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Old 11-20-10, 06:26 PM   #3
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Shouldn't be too hard. There are several Twentys running around that are using 135mm rear spaced axles.

Try over on the Twenty website, or contact SixtyFiver here on BF, he has a very heavily modded Twenty.

Aaron
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Old 11-20-10, 06:35 PM   #4
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My Kingpin was done by professionals but is now 135mm so it can be done.
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Old 11-20-10, 07:35 PM   #5
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Sheldon Brown describes a method on his site, using a 2x4 as leverage to do this. I would do a search for it on his site first. At one time I put a Shimano 7 speed on my 1956 Schwinn Wasp coaster brake single speed, but it was not nearly that much increase in space required. My son and I did it just pulling by hand but the stays for a 26" bike make it an easier bend. I have since gone back to the stock set up on that bike.

One method I think might work is take an all thread bolt or rod. First screw on two nuts first put washers on outside of each nut. Then place the rod where the axel was and start cranking to exert outward force. If on each side, the stays have similar geometry and stiffness then they should bend equally. You may have to over compensate because there may be spring back.

Others probably know more about this than me but one consideration is that you are taking the metal beyond its yield stress. If you then decide to reverse this then you again bend it past yield stress and how much this fatigues and weakens the frame could be a consideration. Hopefully others who have done this will weigh in on the matter.
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Old 11-20-10, 07:47 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Schwinnsta View Post
Sheldon Brown describes a method on his site, using a 2x4 as leverage to do this. I would do a search for it on his site first. At one time I put a Shimano 7 speed on my 1956 Schwinn Wasp coaster brake single speed, but it was not nearly that much increase in space required. My son and I did it just pulling by hand but the stays for a 26" bike make it an easier bend. I have since gone back to the stock set up on that bike.

One method I think might work is take an all thread bolt or rod. First screw on two nuts first put washers on outside of each nut. Then place the rod where the axel was and start cranking to exert outward force. If on each side, the stays have similar geometry and stiffness then they should bend equally. You may have to over compensate because there may be spring back.

Others probably know more about this than me but one consideration is that you are taking the metal beyond its yield stress. If you then decide to reverse this then you again bend it past yield stress and how much this fatigues and weakens the frame could be a consideration. Hopefully others who have done this will weigh in on the matter.
I honestly think this is of minimal concern on something like a Raleigh Twenty. A higher quality steel frame I could see it being a problem.

Aaron
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Old 11-20-10, 07:58 PM   #7
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I honestly think this is of minimal concern on something like a Raleigh Twenty. A higher quality steel frame I could see it being a problem.

Aaron
don't forget it has shorter stays, so it's harder to bend.

Now, if you could just disconnect the chainstays from the bottom bracket, then it would be much easier.
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Old 11-21-10, 04:13 AM   #8
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On a related note, the powdercoat company I had sent my Raleigh Twenty to be painted in new Raleigh livery repaired frame damage. The bike today looks like new!
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Old 11-21-10, 03:11 PM   #9
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I cold set the front fork, which I know is not what you're asking about, but thought the pics might give you some ideas.

http://raleightwenty.webs.com/apps/p...lbumid=9882864
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Old 11-21-10, 03:45 PM   #10
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don't forget it has shorter stays, so it's harder to bend.
That's actually incorrect, I measured mine's stays once and found them to be of average length - a bit shorter than touring bike stays but longer than many road bike stays.
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Old 11-21-10, 06:06 PM   #11
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That's actually incorrect, I measured mine's stays once and found them to be of average length - a bit shorter than touring bike stays but longer than many road bike stays.
I meant the distance from the dropout to the cross bridge.
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Old 11-21-10, 08:25 PM   #12
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I meant the distance from the dropout to the cross bridge.
Ah. Yes. That would be important.
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Old 01-16-11, 12:34 PM   #13
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Ive cold set some frames. mostly bigger bikes tho.

I did get a 5 speed deraileur wheel into a BMX once. with no cold setting. just messed around with the standard spacers on a single speed hub. so there was enough room for the block.

Maybes your hub could run with thinner lock nuts?
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