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Old 01-11-11, 06:04 PM   #1
SunnyFlorida
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Raleigh Twenty slipping out of gear

When I renovated my R20 I opted to keep the original SA 3 speed hub. I bought a replica SA three speed trigger shifter for it.

For the last 2-3 months it shifted fine but in the last week it has slipped gears more than three times.

I usually keep it at the 2nd gear and seldom use the 3rd and never had the need to go to the 1st gear.

I'm puzzled then as to why it's suddenly slipping. Any thoughts on this?

What can I do to get it back to the smooth shifting it did before?
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Old 01-11-11, 06:24 PM   #2
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The cable stop clamp is loose and moving. The cable pivot pulley clamp is loose and moving. Those are the two most likely reasons and they don't have to be very loose. Roger
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Old 01-11-11, 06:30 PM   #3
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It may just need some adjustment. Try adjusting it with by having a minimum of tension but not loose in third gear. Or use the prescribed adjustment in 2nd gear and if it still skips try adjusting looser or tighter.
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Old 01-11-11, 07:35 PM   #4
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Restating the common wisdom,
In 2nd , the indicator chain has a shoulder, it is even with the end of the axle,
thats its indication ..
as seen thru the hole in the outer indicator chain guide thru nut.


screw the cable adjustment cable till it is so.

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-11-11 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 01-11-11, 07:40 PM   #5
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Did you use a new cable? If so it will be cable stretch and adjusting the indicator chain as fietsbob describes should make the problem go away. Also look for any loose attachment points.

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Old 01-11-11, 09:13 PM   #6
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I just sold a Bike with a old S/A 3 speed that was slipping out of 2nd gear. Turned out the problem was a broken pawl. If you Google this issue, many hits will come up from other owners experiencing the same problem i.e. slipping 2nd gear/broken pawl with S/A Hubs

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Old 01-12-11, 12:11 AM   #7
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Cable stretch or slipping stops seem like the most likely culprit. The AW hub is high-normal (it will go into 3rd if you detach the cable) and has a neutral between 2nd and 3rd. This means that if the cable is loose, it can slip from 2nd into neutral. Tighten the cable a few turns to make sure it's solidy engaging the 2nd gear (it should be adjusted so you'll find the neutral if you move the shift lever half-way between 2nd and 3rd.

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Old 01-12-11, 04:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamimike View Post
I just sold a Bike with a old S/A 3 speed that was slipping out of 2nd gear. Turned out the problem was a broken pawl. If you Google this issue, many hits will come up from other owners experiencing the same problem i.e. slipping 2nd gear/broken pawl with S/A Hubs
That is a fairly rare occurrence in my experience with the AW series of hubs. I have close to a dozen hubs, two are high mileage hubs and have never had that happen. I did replace pawl springs on my highest mileage one (30,000+) because they seemed weak. I guess if a hub has been abused or possibly a defective part was installed you could break a pawl.

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Old 01-12-11, 02:17 PM   #9
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Thanks guys for the quick responses. I tightened the cable tension as advised and made sure it was secure at both ends.

I was going from 3rd to 2nd and back again a few times during my commute today. No problems.
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Old 01-12-11, 07:20 PM   #10
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Happy SA hubs keep the poles of the earth from reversing. EVERYONE needs to do their part!
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Old 01-16-11, 11:40 AM   #11
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Ive not had broken pawls. but have seen a few that are rusty or gummed up. so a drop of thin oil in the hub does wonders. Its better to take it to bits. but that might be a bit daunting
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Old 01-16-11, 05:42 PM   #12
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Ive not had broken pawls. but have seen a few that are rusty or gummed up. so a drop of thin oil in the hub does wonders. Its better to take it to bits. but that might be a bit daunting
A easy, but messy fix is to run some kerosene (or paint thinner or??) through the hub, ride it a bit, add more, drain it, then add fresh oil. I have "repaired" several supposedly bad hubs this way. If that doesn't do it, then a tear down is in order. They are not terribly complicated, but there is a learning curve to it.

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Old 01-16-11, 06:57 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
A easy, but messy fix is to run some kerosene (or paint thinner or??) through the hub, ride it a bit, add more, drain it, then add fresh oil. I have "repaired" several supposedly bad hubs this way. If that doesn't do it, then a tear down is in order. They are not terribly complicated, but there is a learning curve to it.

Aaron
Oh Lord. Thank goodness I don't have to go that route. I don't even have paint thinner in the house.

Anyways, it seems that tightening up the cable was all that was needed to get it back in gear (so to speak). I've been riding the R20 for a few days now and it doesn't shift into third - unasked - unless I shift it to third.

Luckily for me it was an easy fix.
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Old 01-18-11, 06:50 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by SunnyFlorida View Post
Oh Lord. Thank goodness I don't have to go that route. I don't even have paint thinner in the house.

Anyways, it seems that tightening up the cable was all that was needed to get it back in gear (so to speak). I've been riding the R20 for a few days now and it doesn't shift into third - unasked - unless I shift it to third.

Luckily for me it was an easy fix.
I am sure Vodka...or rubbing alcohol would probably work too I have even used gasoline in the past, but at it's current prices I am not so sure that the vodka might not be cheaper

Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
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Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
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Old 01-19-11, 07:02 PM   #15
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I rebuilt an AW hub with Gumout & starting ether. I didn't ride it, I just shook the bejabbers out of it in between fillings. Someone had filled the hub with oil and cranked the cones as tight as they could back in the early '70s and just let it sit for 40 years. Two aresol cans and one set of clothes later it worked like new!
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