Quick release Quill stem ?
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Quick release Quill stem ?
I would like my twenty to be fold-able without carrying around any tool's ..... the frame fold is basically quick release anyway and the seatpost is easy enough to convert .... but lowering or removing the stem still need's a tool.
Ive done a google search and cant find any existing solution's .... so I thought I would make one up myself ... but has anyone tried it ?
Can anyone think of any reason why it wouldn't work ?
Bearing in mind it already has a homemade bolt in there because i wasn't able to find one long enough ... so the "danger's" of having homemade bit's on such a crucial area doesn't bother me.
Ive done a google search and cant find any existing solution's .... so I thought I would make one up myself ... but has anyone tried it ?
Can anyone think of any reason why it wouldn't work ?
Bearing in mind it already has a homemade bolt in there because i wasn't able to find one long enough ... so the "danger's" of having homemade bit's on such a crucial area doesn't bother me.
#2
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I tried running a qr through a quill stem and it seemed to work fine. Once adjusted correctly, it locked down rock solid. Didn't end up using it on the bike I tried it out on, but wouldn't hesitate to use it in the future.
#4
Banned
If you have access to machine tools a lot is possible , using a QR eccentric
as a method to tighten a wedge quill is a good approach,
but that is a light machine shop project.
got a lathe, drill press and some threading dies , no problem.
If you understand how a hub QR eccentric works,
then machining a new quill Bolt,
that will interface with the wedge at the bottom of your quill stem,
and be tensioned by flopping the lever down.. would be a
fairly straight forward thing..
much simpler, perhaps, just put a bicycle multi tool in your pocket.
loosen allen sockets as needed.
as a method to tighten a wedge quill is a good approach,
but that is a light machine shop project.
got a lathe, drill press and some threading dies , no problem.
If you understand how a hub QR eccentric works,
then machining a new quill Bolt,
that will interface with the wedge at the bottom of your quill stem,
and be tensioned by flopping the lever down.. would be a
fairly straight forward thing..
much simpler, perhaps, just put a bicycle multi tool in your pocket.
loosen allen sockets as needed.
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-13-11 at 07:03 PM.
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If you have access to machine tools a lot is possible , using a QR eccentric
as a method to tighten a wedge quill is a good approach,
but that is a light machine shop project.
got a lathe, drill press and some threading dies , no problem.
much simpler , just put a bicycle multi tool in your pocket.
loosen allen sockets as needed.
as a method to tighten a wedge quill is a good approach,
but that is a light machine shop project.
got a lathe, drill press and some threading dies , no problem.
much simpler , just put a bicycle multi tool in your pocket.
loosen allen sockets as needed.
That's exactly what I was hoping to hear . Thanks.
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Similar question (but perhaps a bit unwise)
Is it possible to QR the handlebar clamp of a threadless clamp? I'd like to be able to quickly rotate some bullhorn handlebars down. I feel like it might be ill advised as there's so much torque on bullhorns.
addendum:
Huh, somehow I didn't find this when I was searching yesterday. I found the that the dahon revolve stem does this exact thing, but it looks like it's designed specifically for dahon steerer tubes (and there's no reach!) Anyone knows if this exists as a threadless clamp?
Is it possible to QR the handlebar clamp of a threadless clamp? I'd like to be able to quickly rotate some bullhorn handlebars down. I feel like it might be ill advised as there's so much torque on bullhorns.
addendum:
Huh, somehow I didn't find this when I was searching yesterday. I found the that the dahon revolve stem does this exact thing, but it looks like it's designed specifically for dahon steerer tubes (and there's no reach!) Anyone knows if this exists as a threadless clamp?
Last edited by Quiwi; 01-13-11 at 10:00 AM.
#7
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This is a standard feature of the Pacific Cycles Carryme. Conventional folding stem designs are necessitated by larger wheels (and shorter headtubes), but if the wheels are small enough to telescope the stem then I think QR quill is a superior solution (stiffer and more reliable):
I've been wanting to try this myself (because I don't like the splitable bars on the Carryme), but haven't gotten around to it.
I figure if it's the right size, you could just thread a QR seatpost bolt into your threadless stem. With a two-bolt stem design and some shims I think it should be possible to make it work well.
Similar question (but perhaps a bit unwise)
Is it possible to QR the handlebar clamp of a threadless clamp? I'd like to be able to quickly rotate some bullhorn handlebars down. I feel like it might be ill advised as there's so much torque on bullhorns.
addendum:
Huh, somehow I didn't find this when I was searching yesterday. I found the that the dahon revolve stem does this exact thing, but it looks like it's designed specifically for dahon steerer tubes (and there's no reach!) Anyone knows if this exists as a threadless clamp?
Is it possible to QR the handlebar clamp of a threadless clamp? I'd like to be able to quickly rotate some bullhorn handlebars down. I feel like it might be ill advised as there's so much torque on bullhorns.
addendum:
Huh, somehow I didn't find this when I was searching yesterday. I found the that the dahon revolve stem does this exact thing, but it looks like it's designed specifically for dahon steerer tubes (and there's no reach!) Anyone knows if this exists as a threadless clamp?
I figure if it's the right size, you could just thread a QR seatpost bolt into your threadless stem. With a two-bolt stem design and some shims I think it should be possible to make it work well.
Last edited by chucky; 01-13-11 at 06:44 PM.
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This fellow has some photos of a diy quick release stem upgrade detailed in Flickr photos. Pretty much as Chucky describes:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dtwright/3382689033/
Jur, I think Dahon's Andros stem is what you're thinking of, but it would probably be overkill for the op's uses. And also, I recall awhile back someone on Dahon's forums asking about whether it was available aftermarket and they got no response.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dtwright/3382689033/
Jur, I think Dahon's Andros stem is what you're thinking of, but it would probably be overkill for the op's uses. And also, I recall awhile back someone on Dahon's forums asking about whether it was available aftermarket and they got no response.
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Yeah I was thinking of putting the QRs on the other end of a stem with a 2 bolt face plate like this:
That way I can slip a straight handlebar out of the stem entirely (front brake only so there's nothing to snag) or the OP could quickly rotate his bullhorn bar.
BTW thanks for posting those other designs; I didn't realize the Reach had a QR quill riser like the Carryme...but I don't believe the Airnimal Joey has anything other than the typical pinch bolt riser:
https://www.calhouncycle.com/productc...&idproduct=978
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Whoops, I think I confused everyone.
OP wants a quick release quill stem will the qr skewer running down the length of the stem (into the steerer)
I was looking for a qr on the handlebar clamp (different person)
I think I'll swing by my LBS and dig through their used stems and see what might work. The one chunky posted looks promising.
OP wants a quick release quill stem will the qr skewer running down the length of the stem (into the steerer)
I was looking for a qr on the handlebar clamp (different person)
I think I'll swing by my LBS and dig through their used stems and see what might work. The one chunky posted looks promising.
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Sorry Jur, I was responding the the first poster:
The question about QR'ing the handlebar clamp is post #6...
I see now Chucky split his response to address both posts. Sorry, my fault for not recognizing the second half of his reply was about handlebar clamps.
And I assumed you were talking about Dahon's Andros stem, since I've never heard of an Atom stem (and you seemed to indicate your spelling might be wrong). I just did a google search on "Atom Stem" and "Atom Clamp" and the only thing that shows up are clamps for theatre lighting.
And Chucky:
For all practical purposes, yes. Although I recall someone jerry-rigging one, I believe it was a non-QR stem intended for Dahon's t-top riser, by using a handlebar stub clamped in the riser. I personally wouldn't consider retrofitting that Andros stem, because even though I'm usually not concerned with weight/bulk, that stem looks like quite a chunk.
Good question. Never took the one off my old Speed, but I kind of doubt that one would work with a regular fork. Looked like it had an integrated headset, and all the recent small-wheeled Dahon's I've seen look like they use a similiar riser. I could be wrong though, does anyone know for sure?
And I assumed you were talking about Dahon's Andros stem, since I've never heard of an Atom stem (and you seemed to indicate your spelling might be wrong). I just did a google search on "Atom Stem" and "Atom Clamp" and the only thing that shows up are clamps for theatre lighting.
And Chucky:
For all practical purposes, yes. Although I recall someone jerry-rigging one, I believe it was a non-QR stem intended for Dahon's t-top riser, by using a handlebar stub clamped in the riser. I personally wouldn't consider retrofitting that Andros stem, because even though I'm usually not concerned with weight/bulk, that stem looks like quite a chunk.
Good question. Never took the one off my old Speed, but I kind of doubt that one would work with a regular fork. Looked like it had an integrated headset, and all the recent small-wheeled Dahon's I've seen look like they use a similiar riser. I could be wrong though, does anyone know for sure?
#14
Banned
Chucky,
Perhaps Have a steel stem fabricated or at least modified so the threads are not directly in aluminum,
as wear and tear will increase the likelihood the treads will strip
will watch as others suggest other premade solutions,
as making stuff is now expected to be offshore.
Perhaps Have a steel stem fabricated or at least modified so the threads are not directly in aluminum,
as wear and tear will increase the likelihood the treads will strip
will watch as others suggest other premade solutions,
as making stuff is now expected to be offshore.
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-14-11 at 12:36 PM.
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Chucky,
Perhaps Have a steel stem fabricated or at least modified so the threads are not directly in aluminum,
as wear and tear will increase the likelihood the treads will strip
will watch as others suggest other premade solutions,
as making stuff is now expected to be offshore.
Perhaps Have a steel stem fabricated or at least modified so the threads are not directly in aluminum,
as wear and tear will increase the likelihood the treads will strip
will watch as others suggest other premade solutions,
as making stuff is now expected to be offshore.
But please continue to discuss DIY solutions. Not all of us have the skills for these sorts of modifications nor do we have access to the proper tools, but it'd be nice to learn rather than depend on odd offshore parts.
Last edited by chucky; 01-14-11 at 09:57 PM.
#16
Banned
Thats a threadless stem , topic shifted away from Quill, now?
the levers are running thru the pinch bolts to remove the stem,
as shown in that picture..
for a good example of how to design a durable threaded connection,
in an aluminum part,
Look at QBP's Salsa LipLock seat post binder band clamp,
they use a threaded steel barrel nut,
that will hold the band on the seat post, threads in the harder metal.
+ the barrel nut will rotate in the machined hole, so as to not bind,
as the band closes in size around the top of the frame's seat post.
the levers are running thru the pinch bolts to remove the stem,
as shown in that picture..
for a good example of how to design a durable threaded connection,
in an aluminum part,
Look at QBP's Salsa LipLock seat post binder band clamp,
they use a threaded steel barrel nut,
that will hold the band on the seat post, threads in the harder metal.
+ the barrel nut will rotate in the machined hole, so as to not bind,
as the band closes in size around the top of the frame's seat post.
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-15-11 at 01:53 PM.
#17
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Wow didn't expect so many responses and Idea's.
Thanks for everyone for the idea's I will bear them in mind.
Just so everyone know's exactly what I'm after ... I already have a home-made extra long quill stem in my twenty with a matching home-made bolt through the middle and I would like to be able to completely remove the stem and handle bar's as that's the only way it will fit in the boot of my g/f's car.
Obviously other solution's to the problem are appreciated but they will have to be pretty good reason's for me to switch over to a thread less system.
Thanks for everyone for the idea's I will bear them in mind.
Just so everyone know's exactly what I'm after ... I already have a home-made extra long quill stem in my twenty with a matching home-made bolt through the middle and I would like to be able to completely remove the stem and handle bar's as that's the only way it will fit in the boot of my g/f's car.
Obviously other solution's to the problem are appreciated but they will have to be pretty good reason's for me to switch over to a thread less system.
#18
Banned
Before they became another import ROC brand name , IRD made a clever quill stem for MTB's
there was a wedge on both ends of an aluminum quill, the steel stem had a tube,
with the same ID as the fork, so loosening the 2 quill wedges let you take out
the quill , the stem would pack nicely, along side the bike , advantage to setups
with cable runs that may be too short to remove a regular quill,by pulling it Up.
there was a wedge on both ends of an aluminum quill, the steel stem had a tube,
with the same ID as the fork, so loosening the 2 quill wedges let you take out
the quill , the stem would pack nicely, along side the bike , advantage to setups
with cable runs that may be too short to remove a regular quill,by pulling it Up.
#19
Schwinnasaur
This is kind of a cludge but why not use a threaded rod instead of the home made bolt. Then you can use a machine handle such as this https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-handles/=am9810 to secure the quill. Or am I completely of base.
#21
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Thats a threadless stem , topic shifted away from Quill, now?
the levers are running thru the pinch bolts to remove the stem,
as shown in that picture..
for a good example of how to design a durable threaded connection,
in an aluminum part,
Look at QBP's Salsa LipLock seat post binder band clamp,
they use a threaded steel barrel nut,
that will hold the band on the seat post, threads in the harder metal.
+ the barrel nut will rotate in the machined hole, so as to not bind,
as the band closes in size around the top of the frame's seat post.
the levers are running thru the pinch bolts to remove the stem,
as shown in that picture..
for a good example of how to design a durable threaded connection,
in an aluminum part,
Look at QBP's Salsa LipLock seat post binder band clamp,
they use a threaded steel barrel nut,
that will hold the band on the seat post, threads in the harder metal.
+ the barrel nut will rotate in the machined hole, so as to not bind,
as the band closes in size around the top of the frame's seat post.
Wow didn't expect so many responses and Idea's.
Thanks for everyone for the idea's I will bear them in mind.
Just so everyone know's exactly what I'm after ... I already have a home-made extra long quill stem in my twenty with a matching home-made bolt through the middle and I would like to be able to completely remove the stem and handle bar's as that's the only way it will fit in the boot of my g/f's car.
Obviously other solution's to the problem are appreciated but they will have to be pretty good reason's for me to switch over to a thread less system.
Thanks for everyone for the idea's I will bear them in mind.
Just so everyone know's exactly what I'm after ... I already have a home-made extra long quill stem in my twenty with a matching home-made bolt through the middle and I would like to be able to completely remove the stem and handle bar's as that's the only way it will fit in the boot of my g/f's car.
Obviously other solution's to the problem are appreciated but they will have to be pretty good reason's for me to switch over to a thread less system.
-Make yourself a QR quill bolt.
or
-Call up Bfold and ask David Lam if he can sell you a Carryme QR quill bolt as a spare part.
OR, if the tube diameters are right you could stick your quill inside the Airnimal riser from Calhoun and then use the pinch bolt on the riser to remove the riser and stem from the steerer as a single piece.
This is kind of a cludge but why not use a threaded rod instead of the home made bolt. Then you can use a machine handle such as this https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-handles/=am9810 to secure the quill. Or am I completely of base.
Yeah that's just what I was thinking for a QR handlebar on a threadless stem!
What's the problem, too much leverage from the bull horns causes it to turn, but it doesn't slide left/right so should work for a flat bar? Is that a normal seatpost binder bolt working as drop in replacement for the stem bolt or is it a little more work than that?
Last edited by chucky; 01-17-11 at 02:48 PM.
#22
Banned
the question is why would a QR bolt need to be more durable than a regular nonQR bolt?
fatigue from Tension and Release cycles may not be so kind.
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Good point, but for what I personally have in mind I don't anticipate using the QR feature much. My intention is for handlebar removal on the Carryme where the QR quill allows the the stem to be oriented appropriately and the proposed QR (threadless) stem would only be rarely needed to remove the bar from the stem for maximum compactness.
Thanks for you advice.
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Yeah that's just what I was thinking for a QR handlebar on a threadless stem!
What's the problem, too much leverage from the bull horns causes it to turn, but it doesn't slide left/right so should work for a flat bar? Is that a normal seatpost binder bolt working as drop in replacement for the stem bolt or is it a little more work than that?
What's the problem, too much leverage from the bull horns causes it to turn, but it doesn't slide left/right so should work for a flat bar? Is that a normal seatpost binder bolt working as drop in replacement for the stem bolt or is it a little more work than that?
I doubt you could twist a set of flat bars in the stem, but if I put a bit of weight on my bullhorns (shot in the dark, maybe 50lbs of force) it will rotate in the clamp. I think I could possible have a tighter QR, since there's no nut in the back I'm limited to increments of 360 degrees or one whole thread.
I think you're only using flat bars? In such a case I would have no reservations about using a quick release how I currently have it setup.
Last edited by Quiwi; 01-18-11 at 02:24 PM. Reason: clarification
#25
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It is a normal seatpost binder bolt. It was threaded the same as the original hex bolt, so I cut off another cm and it went right in. (the stem itself is threaded)
I doubt you could twist a set of flat bars in the stem, but if I put a bit of weight on my bullhorns (shot in the dark, maybe 50lbs of force) it will rotate in the clamp. I think I could possible have a tighter QR, since there's no nut in the back I'm limited to increments of 360 degrees or one whole thread.
I think you're only using flat bars? In such a case I would have no reservations about using a quick release how I currently have it setup.
I doubt you could twist a set of flat bars in the stem, but if I put a bit of weight on my bullhorns (shot in the dark, maybe 50lbs of force) it will rotate in the clamp. I think I could possible have a tighter QR, since there's no nut in the back I'm limited to increments of 360 degrees or one whole thread.
I think you're only using flat bars? In such a case I would have no reservations about using a quick release how I currently have it setup.
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