Old Brompton Vs. New Brompton...Is it worth the Upgrade? - Help Me Decide
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Old Brompton Vs. New Brompton...Is it worth the Upgrade? - Help Me Decide
Guys I could really use some suggestions here.
Last year I purchased a mark II brompton on ebay (manufactured in 1999...per the brompton book). It was in pretty bad shape and I have been restoring it and bringing back to life little by little.
Took it apart...repainted it...replaced old worn parts...pretty much a complete overhall.
The last couple of weeks...I have been eyeing the new brompton...
My question is the following:
Would it be worth me upgrading? Is there much of a difference?
Any advice/suggestions would help. TIA!
Last year I purchased a mark II brompton on ebay (manufactured in 1999...per the brompton book). It was in pretty bad shape and I have been restoring it and bringing back to life little by little.
Took it apart...repainted it...replaced old worn parts...pretty much a complete overhall.
The last couple of weeks...I have been eyeing the new brompton...
My question is the following:
Would it be worth me upgrading? Is there much of a difference?
Any advice/suggestions would help. TIA!
#2
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the Mk4 is a bit longer. the saddle adapter pin was useful then, on mk2 T3
the cast hinges are a Production benefit, as they don't have to be hand brazed ,
By a skilled brazer, like the forged ones did.
the new bars are 22.2.. Ergon grips plug right in..
resold my Mk2, found a 2nd hand newer one, Mk2 was going to a friend
who had said she would buy it if i found another , I found the other one,
encouraged by having a local resale,
but her Medical bills killed that budget, so it went to another aficionado..
sleeved center polished bars, a bit oversize tube 15/16 tube, like a road bar,
So, bar ends a No-Go. I replaced the hard vinyl grips with MTB ones
and added rubber Velox Plugs in the ends.
But the 94 AW3 was worn in and quiet.
the BSR is needing The riding time,
20 spoke F wheel on old one .. 28 spoke front and rear on the new one
14 gage front spokes , 12 gage spoke on the back
I replaced the bushing and got the QR with the latch, to keep the rear from folding ,
all the time,
and replaced the saddle. replaced the brake shoes [Kool-stop Salmon continental]
and added a v brake cable bellows.
AW3 trigger of metal did start to show some rust,
new trigger is of plastics so wont rust.
Oh, and the Mk2 3 or 5T frame rear portion had brazed fittings for the 5 star 5 speed ,
which had 2 indicator chains , on both sides of the hub, and the roller guides.
no fitting for the 2 cog shifter of the Mk3, Sachs sourced.. 2 by 3 speed ..
[Sachs used the 3 spline like sturmey cog , just 2 of them 3/32" fit..
cogs still available, I used a 15t on my AW3, it has 3 shorter teeth for
shifting down to the 13.
the cast hinges are a Production benefit, as they don't have to be hand brazed ,
By a skilled brazer, like the forged ones did.
the new bars are 22.2.. Ergon grips plug right in..
resold my Mk2, found a 2nd hand newer one, Mk2 was going to a friend
who had said she would buy it if i found another , I found the other one,
encouraged by having a local resale,
but her Medical bills killed that budget, so it went to another aficionado..
sleeved center polished bars, a bit oversize tube 15/16 tube, like a road bar,
So, bar ends a No-Go. I replaced the hard vinyl grips with MTB ones
and added rubber Velox Plugs in the ends.
But the 94 AW3 was worn in and quiet.
the BSR is needing The riding time,
20 spoke F wheel on old one .. 28 spoke front and rear on the new one
14 gage front spokes , 12 gage spoke on the back
I replaced the bushing and got the QR with the latch, to keep the rear from folding ,
all the time,
and replaced the saddle. replaced the brake shoes [Kool-stop Salmon continental]
and added a v brake cable bellows.
AW3 trigger of metal did start to show some rust,
new trigger is of plastics so wont rust.
Oh, and the Mk2 3 or 5T frame rear portion had brazed fittings for the 5 star 5 speed ,
which had 2 indicator chains , on both sides of the hub, and the roller guides.
no fitting for the 2 cog shifter of the Mk3, Sachs sourced.. 2 by 3 speed ..
[Sachs used the 3 spline like sturmey cog , just 2 of them 3/32" fit..
cogs still available, I used a 15t on my AW3, it has 3 shorter teeth for
shifting down to the 13.
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-15-12 at 03:06 PM.
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the original colors were black/red and there was some rust inside the frame and triangle...i had to take the entire thing apart (handlebar stem,fork, triangle, main frame)
and i had to throw away the old brakes,cables, mudguards etc. since they were no good
got new tires,breaks,cables and a new rear hinge (in order to take apart the triangle and main frame i had to destroy the old one)
i had the the parts sandblasted (took all the rust out) and had it powder coated green and yellow...
i have been putting the bike back together little by little...im just missing brakes and shifter cables...
i purchased the bike for about $400 and parts/labor cost about $500 so in total about $900
p.s. i had the rear hinge installed professionally by calhoun cycle here in the U.S. and they did an excellent job...
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I was thinking brakes would be the main thing but if you've got the latest type then unless you want the longer frame I don't imagine there'd be any real difference. Unless the pre-mark 3 frames were heavier?
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I've had/have both the old and the new models. In my opinion there's not much of a difference between the two. If you're tall, as it has already been said the new frame is a tad longer and will probably be a bit comfier.
The only thing worth to change/upgrade (if not already retrofitted) is the Brompton Rear Frame Clip. To me this now is a must on any Brompton. Eventually the brakes, although the difference in braking power is nothing to write home about. The new ones shure do look better, though.
The only thing worth to change/upgrade (if not already retrofitted) is the Brompton Rear Frame Clip. To me this now is a must on any Brompton. Eventually the brakes, although the difference in braking power is nothing to write home about. The new ones shure do look better, though.
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FWIW, my Mk 2 had CLB sourced brakes ., not 'bad looking'. (i shipped it to a Seattle Buyer)..
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as promised guys here are some pice
lol john deere colors...
the guys that powder coated it did a really good job...its still a work in progress...i still need to install the gear and brake cables...maybe get a new folding cable...
lol john deere colors...
the guys that powder coated it did a really good job...its still a work in progress...i still need to install the gear and brake cables...maybe get a new folding cable...
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I like the color combination and it looks great.
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This would nice to have for it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Oem-...item46028d64df
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Well, that pretty much is a new Brompton. I'd swap any screw-head bolts for stainless allen ones to finish off the look.
I guess the other concern is whether the frame is structurally sound and whether it'd be worthwhile sealing the inside of tube areas that are prone to rusting through. Of course any frame parts can be replaced and eventually you'd end up with an entirely new bike.
Curious about the hub axle too, seems strange that it extends 12mm or so past the nut. Is that a non-standard part?
I guess the other concern is whether the frame is structurally sound and whether it'd be worthwhile sealing the inside of tube areas that are prone to rusting through. Of course any frame parts can be replaced and eventually you'd end up with an entirely new bike.
Curious about the hub axle too, seems strange that it extends 12mm or so past the nut. Is that a non-standard part?
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Well, that pretty much is a new Brompton. I'd swap any screw-head bolts for stainless allen ones to finish off the look.
I guess the other concern is whether the frame is structurally sound and whether it'd be worthwhile sealing the inside of tube areas that are prone to rusting through. Of course any frame parts can be replaced and eventually you'd end up with an entirely new bike.
Curious about the hub axle too, seems strange that it extends 12mm or so past the nut. Is that a non-standard part?
I guess the other concern is whether the frame is structurally sound and whether it'd be worthwhile sealing the inside of tube areas that are prone to rusting through. Of course any frame parts can be replaced and eventually you'd end up with an entirely new bike.
Curious about the hub axle too, seems strange that it extends 12mm or so past the nut. Is that a non-standard part?
Overall it's structurally good. My main concern are the main frame and handlebar hinge spindle. If you see from the pictures, they do have some cracks.
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Looks like the axle was replaced with a longer one. AFAIK there's no problem with shortening that end.
Cracks in the spindle itself? Or the actual frame hinge? If you mean the visible end of the spindle, it's supposed to look like that.
Cracks in the spindle itself? Or the actual frame hinge? If you mean the visible end of the spindle, it's supposed to look like that.
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I visited one of the bike shops here in the city and tried out one of the new Bromptons. It feels more sturdier and I felt that it rode smoother than the MKII. Is that just me? I really liked it so I may actually buy it and sell my john deere one.
It was love at first ride. I really liked the 6 spd.
It was love at first ride. I really liked the 6 spd.
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I noticed the the bike on ebay, and a new Brompton in the background of the photo?
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#23
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The extra left axle end is handy for adding a trailer tow hitch.
I got one of the Carry Freedom City trailers to add to the capacity
I got one of the Carry Freedom City trailers to add to the capacity
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