Dahon Boardwalk D7 chop shop
Has anyone changed a Dahon Boardwalk D7ís solid axles to quick release (hollow) axles? I had a hollow 141mm axle from another hub but the threads are wrong. The hub is an Assess SB00, with a Shimano seven speed freewheel, not cassette. Does anyone know the thread count on the stock axle?
Has anyone tried to put a front derailleur on one of these things?
Why do you want to go to a freewheel instead of a cassette ? I think the cassette offers you better gearing options as you can easily switch out cogs .Unless of course you have broken the stock axle and are looking to use the freewheel setup as it is already paid for.As for the thread count on the stock axle I would suggest you ask Dahon by going to the Dahon U.S.A site .
You need a new bike
It shouldn't be a big deal to do. You'll need to make sure you get an axle with the correct thread size so the cones will thread on. The axle length is also critical as it should not protrude from the dropouts. Any LBS should be able to help get the right size.
Originally Posted by folder
James, what mods did you make to your Boardwalk? Are you still using a freewheel or a cassette / freehub combo? It's seeming apparent that much of the gearing functionality can be added to the Boardwalk instead of purchasing something $200 more like the Speed 8.
I replaced the 6 speed freewheel with a 7 speed Shimano megarange freewheel 11-34 and added a washer on the drive side(between the freewheel and the frame) to space it out .I also replaced the 6 speed gripshift with a 7 speed gripshift . Last i took the bicycle to REI to have everything adjusted.I also replaced the saddle with a sprung comfort saddle .I did not like the stock saddle.
I think gaerlan.com has these axles, if you can't find it locally, and they've written on one of their pages about doing this. It's a normal ball and cone design. Same with the front. The axles are a bit smaller than what are used in Ultegra Hubs. I think these shouldn't cost more than $5 a piece.
I'm thinking about buying a singlespeed Boardwalk and doing a number of modifications to it. They can be had for around $150 new. Building a wheel around a new quality cassette hub and putting a 7-9 speed (would have to check with chain line to see how far it could go) and putting on a decent quality derailleur. The derailleur that comes with it seems like it's about the cheapest one could possibly buy.
I've borrowed someone's D6 and I think I like it, but would like a bit more gearing and also less squeaks in the frame. Maybe that's just his bike, or maybe they're problems that have been resolved in the latest Boardwalk mods.
I was also thinking last night about trying to throw on a front derailleur and how difficult that would be.
the rear triangle may be too narrow to do that on a single. You could probably build a very nice fixed wheel though. I would start with a boardwalk 6 or maybe an older dahon 5 speed if you want to tinker about to have multiple gears.
Last edited by james Haury; 01-19-05 at 09:06 AM.
The Broadwalk I'm not sure about, but the Dahon Speed D6 is definitely 135mm OLN and a 9 speed cassette would drop in (its the same frame as the dual drive SpeedPro). If you can take your tape measure to the bike shop, measure the space between the rear dropouts, if its above 130mm, you can get a 9 speed wheel in (it seems likely that it is to me). If not, its possible to cold set the frame. Its a bit tricky, but can be acheived with a long threaded rod, some nuts and some big washers. I managed it with a brompton, so a dahon is definitely do-able. Other possibilities include a 7 speed cassette and freebody on a 9 speed hub.
No local bike shop to check. The Boardwalk D6 dropout width is 130mm. Theperson I spoke with about the Boardwalk-1 said it is an identical frame, hopefully even with the rear cantilever brake bosses. So I hope its dropout size is the same. It would seem foolish for them to have a slightly different frame from the D6, wouldn't it? This is a 2004 model, which isn't official, but which Dahon said they won't discontinue for some other reasons.
Yeah, standard road dropouts are 130mm, mtn 135, both have a freehub body supporting 9 speed.
9 speed may end up being too finicky on a folder with such a short chainline. Luckily I have components lying around to test before comitting.
I'd really like to find a used bike to build from... but haven't seen any that aren't selling for less than 50% of new prices, and that's too much for something with no warranty and is questionably inferior to new models.
Well, I received an email today saying that the rear dropout is narrower (but not how much) and there are no canti bosses for brakes. So one would have to braze on new ones. Definitely that'll be voiding any warranty.
Originally Posted by jasong
I think the Boardwalk 1 has a rear drop out width of 114mm.
Would it be possible for a Boardwalk owner to confirm the rear droupout/OLN width of the Boardwalk D7? Also, as far as anyone knows, has it changed between the 2004 and 2005 model years? The figures of 130 and 135mm are floating around above. Clarity on this issue would be a big help as I plan my "conversion conspiracy." Thanks.
Has anyone chopped the fixed-length handlepost on a Boardwalk to use it with a 1 1/8 in. (actual 25.4mm) quill adapter stem? I am considering doing this, and would like to know if it has been done before.
I have a "Revolve" handlepost (I think) with the 1 1/8 in. quill. The problems I face are: (a) I plan to convert the Boardwalk's handlebar to the bullhorn type, and need a standard, non-Dahon stem to hold it, and (b) the handlepost is just far too high. I recently tried ordering Dahon's after-market adjustable handlepost (the ProLite Telescope) but this item is out-of-stock into May. So I'm trying to get a jump on things (and save $45) using a pipe cutter !
Using a caliper, I have figured that the wall thickness on the handlepost is 1.5mm. The post tapers as it rises, most clearly in the last two inches. If I chop the post at the point where its O.D. = 28.4mm, I should be left with a 25.4mm I.D. (i.e., 28.4mm - 1.5mm - 1.5mm = 25.4mm). The I.D. will expand below that point, but I figure that the dog of the quill post adapter will slide laterally when tightened and jam against the larger inside.
Cutting the handlepost at that point would drop the handlebar height by about 1.5 to 2 in., which is not as much as I would like, but it gets me part of the way: I can use an angled stem to get a bit lower.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Your thoughts are appreciated.
Well, I got impatient and did the deed. Although I have not ridden the bike since chopping the handlepost, it looks like I have accomplished much of what I set out to do.
The handlepost turned out to have 2mm thick walls, not 1.5mm, and that worked out well for me, as it allowed me to chop the post about 1 in. lower than expected (a total of about 3 in. below the center of the orig. handlebar clamp). It's not quite as low as I would like, but it is close.
I have a 1 1/8 in. aheadset adapter quill that I am using. The adapter quill feels a little strange as it begins to get tightened in the severed handlepost (probably due to the expanding taper in the handlepost), but once you pass a certain (modest) amount of torque on the binder bolt, it firms up and feels like any other quill stem.
I have just ordered a short, 130 deg. Profile stem. Due to its sharp angle, mounted in a downward direction, this will give me another 1.5 in. of drop (with 2 in. of forward displacement), which will get me to approx. where I want to be for short-distance commuting.
I didn't have the 130 deg. stem on hand last night, but I had a shallow 75mm stem for testing. Although folding is not a priority, I was surprised that, with the 75mm stem and a set of compact drop bars, I was able to fold the bike fairly well (the bars need to be rotated in the stem in order to fold but the stem stays put). I am not able to mate the F & R magnets, but they come surprisingly close.
(B-t-w, my original idea was to use bullhorn bars, but I prefer drops and I changed my mind when I saw how well the folding worked with the drop bars.)
I am setting up a memorial scholarship fund now in case the handlepsot and/or stem fails when I actually ride it ...
Let us hope it is not used before the end of your natural lifespan.
In all seriousness, it should actually be stronger than the stock handlepost, if, for no other reason, because it is now 3 in. lower. Lower = less leverage over the the length of the post, it seems to me. I won't be able to test the bike for a few days, as several crucial parts are on order, notably, the 130 deg. stem and two "travel agent" cable adapters, to allow use of standard drop bar brake levers with V-brakes.
Speaking of Dahon handleposts, I have a few related questions:
1. Is the handlepost dead straight, or does it pitch forward a little after emerging from the steerer tube? I seem to get mixed impressions when eyeballing it and when looking at photos of other Dahons. Most of the time it appears to have a faint angle at the hinge, but sometimes it appears perfectly straight. Due to brake & gear cables, a busy schedule, a small apartment and other considerations, I have not yet taken the time to remove it from the bike to inspect it.
2. Assuming that the handlepost does angle forward a little, what experience do users have, if any, turning the handlepost 180 degrees in the steerer tube so that the post pitches rearward a little, rather than forward? I realize that this would affect the folding process, but leaving that aside for a moment, does it move the handlebar rearward? If so, by how much? I ask this because, at 5 ft. 7 in. (and using drop bars and a short stem), I find the reach to be a little long on the Boardwalk.
3. Finally, and importantly, can the handlepost be safely used as described in (2) above? Since the handlepost in its normal position folds back and to the left side, when turned 180 degrees, it would fold forward to the right side. Would this set up put undue stress on the latch? Does Dahon say anything about this (I bought my bike used with no manuals, etc.)? Assuming a catastrophic latch failure while in use, does it matter if the handlepost folds forward vs. rearward?
Your observations on this cheery subject would be appreciated.