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  1. #51
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    Though creaks tend to occur when pulling on the bars they might actually originate from a number of places, not necessarily the handlepost. You can start by putting a drop of oil on each of the two bolts that secure the sliding plate on the inside of the handlepost and see if that helps.

  2. #52
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    Check the handlepost clamp is properly adjusted by looking at it from the front on and push the bars back with the brakes on. See if the clamp plates move at all. If they do then a nut on the inside of the handlepost needs adjusting with an 8mm spanner.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    Check the handlepost clamp is properly adjusted by looking at it from the front on and push the bars back with the brakes on. See if the clamp plates move at all. If they do then a nut on the inside of the handlepost needs adjusting with an 8mm spanner.
    Thanks, I'll check tomorrow.

  4. #54
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    Had a more experienced biker look over my bike and he suggested that I tighten the nut anyway. Tried chagz' maneouvre but didn't notice anything obvious. Didn't have my tools with me and it was too dark to go the car so will tighten later and see what happens. Grateful, as always, for the advice peeps.

  5. #55
    Cool Guy Training.Wheels's Avatar
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    Make sure to tighten by like a sixth of a turn each time, then check to see if the tightness improves; it really doesn't take much to do the job. I'm guessing your LBS went all out with tightening that one and that's what caused your hinge to break.
    http://www.pedalroom.com/member/J-Dogg

  6. #56
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    Thanks guys.
    Rode again yesterday and I've got some issues.

    My wrist hurts, especially my right one. The Biologic grip kept twisting and as such I was straining my wrist by overextending. I think what made it worse was the low, fixed handlebar position (I hope it will improve if I get the QR lever and adjust the handlepost to a more reasonable height).

    Another issue is I'm struggling to get used to the SRAM Comp 3.0 gripshift. I don't know if mine is gubbed but shifting is rather difficult and a
    little clunky. Also seems counterintuitive in the shift direction. I assume I'll eventually get used to it.

    The creaking is still there from the handlepost area. I realise I probably had the wrong idea of the part needing tightening and I don't have the appropriate tools for the job - no wrench and no 6/10mm allen key! Good value tools recommendation appreciated.

    I also wonder if the creaking could be coming from the headset, is that possible?

  7. #57
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    Creaking is probably coming from the frame hinge rather than the handlepost. If you look at the inside of the plates is there any paint worn away?

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    Creaking is probably coming from the frame hinge rather than the handlepost. If you look at the inside of the plates is there any paint worn away?
    I've put my ear to the frame hinge and handlepost hinge whilst a friend applied a load. Definitely from the handlepost. Amazing how loud it is with your ear against it!

    I'm considering swapping my new handlepost for the old one. Will the radius v fit?

  9. #59
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    The lower section will fit on the steerer tube, yes.

    Post a pic if you've received the handlepost so I can see which model it is.

    So if it's the handlepost creaking then it's either coming from the interface between steerer tube and handlepost or the interface between lower handlepost and upper section. See if you can locate by ear which is the case. I'm guessing it'll be the upper section.

  10. #60
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    It could also be the handlebar clamp, you can try putting thin oil on the hinge and a thin layer of grease around the centre of the handlebar where it interfaces with the handlebar clamp.

  11. #61
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    chagzuki:

    DSC00519.jpg

  12. #62
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    Actually I ordered one myself and received it today. It's the 2010 version and is slightly different in most respects, i.e. besides the fact that it will fit your fork steerer just fine nothing else is compatible. The required upper section should be 28.6mm diameter whereas the version on your Mu is the older 25.4mm. It also looks as though the clamp for the upper section is slightly different and I don't think any parts are interchangeable.
    However, a 28.6 to 25.4mm shim ought to allow you to use the upper section from your Mu with this lower section. It's nicely made actually and seem like an improvement over the older design.

  13. #63
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    Hold your horses on buying a shim though, there are some other factors to consider.

  14. #64
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    Yes, feels very solid and sturdily made. Was going to keep it just in case but I might just swap it now. Will try and service the hinges first before I go ordering an uppersection handlepost...

  15. #65
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    BTW, been thinking of fitting bullhorn bars to my MuP8. Don't want to bother with the expense of the brake levers that are used on drop bars (the name eludes me).

    Visited an LBS today and he showed me the clip-on brakes on a bullhorn bar.

    Thinking of using the current Avid brake levers, will they fit?

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by keke View Post
    BTW, been thinking of fitting bullhorn bars to my MuP8. Don't want to bother with the expense of the brake levers that are used on drop bars (the name eludes me).

    Visited an LBS today and he showed me the clip-on brakes on a bullhorn bar.

    Thinking of using the current Avid brake levers, will they fit?
    Duh! What about the gear shifter?

  17. #67
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    I just got the upper section of my old post to fit in the new lower section with a shim. I couldn't find one of the correct sizes but this looked close enough (and cheap enough to be worth a go):
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=43707

    25 to 28.2mm.
    Being plastic I suppose it may introduce additional flex but tightened up well it's probably fine, and may actually reduce flex since the aluminium parts don't necessarily fit perfectly. It requires a small mod with a pair of scissors to strategically remove a small amount of material, to accommodate the protrusion on the inside of lower post about an inch down from top.

  18. #68
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    Thanks chagzuki. Will bear that in mind.

    Are you replacing your handlepost with the new one? What bike have you got?

    Decided to go the "bar end" route. Too much hassle (for a noob) changing to bullhorns.

    My right biologic grip is moving all over the place and causing me trouble. The bontrager ones I had on my old bike were way better.

    Done the hairspray thing but doubt it will help. Will check it out tonight..

  19. #69
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    I've a 2007 Vitesse D5HG (sturmey archer 5 speed hub). So most of the parts are the same as yours. I thought I'd replace that handlepost section as the ebay price was too good to pass up and the latch was in need of replacing on my old one.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    I've a 2007 Vitesse D5HG (sturmey archer 5 speed hub). So most of the parts are the same as yours. I thought I'd replace that handlepost section as the ebay price was too good to pass up and the latch was in need of replacing on my old one.

    Are you doing it yourself or taking it to an LBS? Still considering just buying the qr lever and safety catch though it will cost more than the new handlepost!!

  21. #71
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    I do all my own bike maintenance. Folding bikes need so much adjustment due to their complexity, I wouldn't trust a shop with that or want to pay the charges.

  22. #72
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    Tricky question: as an absolute newbie, should I try to upgrade my handlepost?

  23. #73
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    That makeshift allen bolt/nut clamping device looks a bit shoddy but if it's working and the height is OK perhaps hold off for the moment.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by keke View Post
    ... My right biologic grip is moving all over the place and causing me trouble. ...
    The current Biologic grips have clamps that prevent them from moving. See:

    http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/arx-grips-t-tool

    -HANK RYAN-
    Norman, Oklahoma USA
    DISCLOSURE: I have an ownership interest in an independent bike shop that is an authorized dealer for Raleigh, Dahon, Tern & Brompton.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by HGR3inOK View Post
    The current Biologic grips have clamps that prevent them from moving. See:

    http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/arx-grips-t-tool

    -HANK RYAN-
    Norman, Oklahoma USA
    Thanks Hank.
    Cannot imagine why it was designed without a locking mechanism in the first place.

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