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  1. #1
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    What to expect when you're expecting..

    .. a 2007 Dahon MuP8?

    Folderitis has another victim, me! Dunno what came over me..

    Reflex purchase, by all accounts needs some work.

    My first yikes came when I realised that the bike was most probably a 2007 rather than newer, based on the SRAM X7 instead of the Neos, is that a cause for concern?

    I'm apprehensive about a bike with derailleurs since my only experience has been with an IGH (Nexus 3spd). I have no idea what techniques I'll need to use derailleurs. Only been riding for about 10months or so..

    As for maintenance, I'm hoping to leave that to the LBS.

    Apart from the above, what else can I expect?

    Thanks folks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Foldable Two's Avatar
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    Use the gears just like you do in a car - assuming you have, or do drive one.

  3. #3
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    It's hardly any different from the later versions. Handlepost upper section has since been increase in diameter and I don't think the 2007 version had the front luggage holes on head tube.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys.
    I've heard that derailleurs demand a different shifting technique altogether though I'm not sure what.
    Should I look to upgrade the handlepost? This probably won't be my final folder so maybe just ride it till I can adora something better.
    Does the sram hang lower than the Neos?

  5. #5
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    The older handlepost was OK, not as stiff if extended far for a very upright position but if low-ish there probably won't be a perceptible difference.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Foldable Two's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keke View Post
    Thanks guys.
    I've heard that derailleurs demand a different shifting technique altogether though I'm not sure what.
    With derailleurs, you have to down-shift BEFORE you come to a stop - different than a stick-shift car or a bike with an internal hub. (In other words: You have to be moving to shift gears.)

    Lou

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    The older handlepost was OK, not as stiff if extended far for a very upright position but if low-ish there probably won't be a perceptible difference.
    Thanks a lot.

    Quote Originally Posted by Foldable Two View Post
    With derailleurs, you have to down-shift BEFORE you come to a stop - different than a stick-shift car or a bike with an internal hub. (In other words: You have to be moving to shift gears.)

    Lou
    Thanks, this confuses me somewhat. I've heard that stated many times but I've seen people work the shifter while stationary, even LBS while demonstrating it to me. I would've expected the shifter NOT to work since one is stationary..

  8. #8
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    Silly me, I realise now that actually shifting gears and playing with the grip/trigger shifter are not neccessarily the same thing.

  9. #9
    Senior Member kamtsa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keke View Post
    Thanks, this confuses me somewhat. I've heard that stated many times but I've seen people work the shifter while stationary, even LBS while demonstrating it to me. I would've expected the shifter NOT to work since one is stationary..
    Probably only one or two gear changes. It will not allow you for example to shift from one extreme to the other, and you don't want to force it.

    The actual shifting (chain derailing) is done as you start pedaling.

    Another difference from IGH is that they are more difficult to clean (e.g. between cogs in the rear, derailleur jokey wheels, etc) and more tricky to tune up (you can learn from videos on the internet or have a good mechanic).

    Once you get used to it it will serve you just fine and you will enjoy the closer gear spacing compared to your existing 3sp.
    Happier than a camel on wednesday.

  10. #10
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    Thanks kamtsa.

    Trying to contain my excitement as I await my preloved bike. It needs work but I'm sure with the good folks of BF here, I'll get it fixed up in no time. Need to find a good LBS in my new locale.

    I will have lots of questions....

  11. #11
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    It's here!

    Took delivery of my new/preloved bike today. It's heavily preloved I might add. I hope I haven't underestimated the amount of work required, I did say it was a fixer-upper, LOL!

    Photos as follows (tried to take detailed shots of what I feel needs attention):

    DSC_0566.jpgDSC_0567.jpgDSC_0568.jpgDSC_0570.jpgDSC_0568.jpgDSC_0573.jpgDSC_0575.jpgDSC_0576.jpgDSC_0577.jpgDSC_0578.jpg

    First thing that worres me is that the handlepost seems to be the old, non-reinforced one, should I be worried? Should I just buy a new handlepost, a Radius V? CH White has them on sale.

    The rear derailleur and chain looks knackered, is that terminal? Tried a quick ride and couldnt change gears, seems there might be something stuck in the cogs, tried to get a good pic. It's missing a chainguard and I've already done a wee search and I think that'll be hard to replace.

    Need new QR for the telescopic and possible another QR for the handlebar - it's corroded somewhat.

    Rear wheel missing a spoke - replace spoke or new wheel? Hopefully just a spoke job.

    Seller kindly donated new brake pads.

    I know the bike needs a service, I welcome any suggestions you guys might have. If I've missed anything, please let me know.

    Finally, is there anything I can do myself?

    Very many thanks!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
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    Shame it doesn't have the original Marathon Racers.
    Handlepost should be fine, just make sure both the hinge and the headset are properly adjusted so that any play is dialled out. I'd put some oil around those two allen bolts on the inside of the handlepost latch as that can be a source of creaking.

    The front rim seems OK from the pic (i.e. the wear indicator line is intact) but the rear looks fairly knackered.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    Shame it doesn't have the original Marathon Racers.
    Handlepost should be fine, just make sure both the hinge and the headset are properly adjusted so that any play is dialled out. I'd put some oil around those two allen bolts on the inside of the handlepost latch as that can be a source of creaking.

    The front rim seems OK from the pic (i.e. the wear indicator line is intact) but the rear looks fairly knackered.
    Thanks. Do you mean the black line that runs round the rim? I had no idea it was a wear indicator! Does that mean I need a new rear wheeland must it be a Dahon wheel?

  14. #14
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    Obviously photos can be misleading, the rear wheel might be fine. Yeah, that black line is meant as an indicator of wear; when it gets faint it means the rim is getting thin. But I'm sure some people use their rims long after that point and just inspect for cracks regularly.
    Do the wheels run true?

  15. #15
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    The rear derailleur and chain looks knackered, is that terminal?
    only for those parts specifically, get new replacements Cassette & chain go in the bin together,

    handle post looks like someone bodged away the Qr lever assembly..
    so fold size is increased, since bars are not low enough, then.

  16. #16
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    Oh yeah, the telescopic section qr. . . actually I did something similar with my Vitesse when I installed Big Apple tyres and found the Qr would hit them when folded.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    only for those parts specifically, get new replacements Cassette & chain go in the bin together,

    handle post looks like someone bodged away the Qr lever assembly..
    so fold size is increased, since bars are not low enough, then.
    I was going to take the bike to the LBS to have them check it out. Hope not to have to discard the entire casette/chain/derailleur parts as it starts to get expensive..

    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    Oh yeah, the telescopic section qr. . . actually I did something similar with my Vitesse when I installed Big Apple tyres and found the Qr would hit them when folded.
    A compact fold doesn't really bother me as it will live in my boot 98% of the time. I was going to see if I liked the height as it is before deciding to get a new QR. I hear the lower it is, the stiffer and the better it gets.

  18. #18
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    Bumping for more exposure and tips/suggestions/advice/warnings etc..

  19. #19
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    Use the Tern instructional video on their website to check the main hinge is at the correct tension and adjust accordingly. If it's too loose you could damage the bike whilst riding it.

    If I were you I'd replace the gear cable and learn how to adjust the derailleur yourself, easy enough via online video tutorials.
    I'd not replace any other parts before doing that. The chain might even be OK, either just replace it or buy a chain wear measuring tool, unless it's clearly rusted internally.

    You'll have to make sure to get the correct type of chain, i.e. 8 speed, probably 7.1mm pin width if I remember rightly.

  20. #20
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Hope not to have to discard the entire casette/chain/derailleur parts as it starts to get expensive..
    Derailleur may be OK, Your 1st hand Shop Inspection will determine that.
    but chain/cassette they are consumable drive train parts,
    and new chain on a used cassette fills many pages of
    why does my bike have a problem.. queries.

  21. #21
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    Thanks chagz and fiets.
    Hoping to visit my former abode this weekend where I have an LBS. Still trying to find my feet at the new place.

    I was thinking of giving the bike a good vleac to see what's grime and what's rust.

    Will look for gear cable videos, watched the derailleur adjustment one last night. Was thinking of letting a pro have first bash at it before I mess around with it going forward.

  22. #22
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    Yeah, I forget you'd need cable cutters. . . spose it might be a time to consider whether you want to learn the skills yourself in which case picking up some tools will be a good investment.

  23. #23
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    New pic:
    DSC_0583 (2).jpg

    Pumped up the tyres and went for a brief ride, couldn't resist! It is so much better than my first folder. Hinge feels solid, seems taller on this model than other Dahons. It was a very good feeling riding it, not squirrely at all. Nary a creak, just some from the handlepost that's it! Look forward to future rides.

  24. #24
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    Update..

    Went to see 2 LBSs for an estimate to fix my bike.

    LBS 1:
    Bike needs new cassette and chain (used a chain checker), new spoke, wheels trued, hubs greased, brakes replaced and full service for 80.

    LBS 2:
    Bike doesn't need a new chain or cassette; estimates that chain and cassette have about 500miles in them (checked the chain and links and felt the springiness of something). Instead offers to change spoke, true wheel and change gear cable which he feels is damaged for the princely sum of 17. I think that includes a tune up, not sure.

    Still have a DIY LBS place to check out later.

    What say ye?

  25. #25
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    The disparity there highlights the benefit of learning the skills to do it yourself, though it sounds like LBS2 is more likely to be credible/honest and that price looks almost too good to be true.
    BTW, your front hub is sealed and can't be greased, so long as there's no play and it's smooth there's no servicing to be done there.
    I thought from the pics that there were more signs of mistreatment than high mileage.

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