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Thread: swift folders

  1. #3251
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    Thanks lol

    If you were in the UK and had a Swift I would have considered adding assistance for you if you had wanted it.

    Regards

    Jerry
    Brompton M2L (SRAM A2), Brompton M2L(X), Dahon Uno (SRAM A2), Both Swift Xootr & Moulton TSR2 now gone

  2. #3252
    Portable Audio/Bike Lover tds101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerrysimon View Post
    Thanks lol

    If you were in the UK and had a Swift I would have considered adding assistance for you if you had wanted it.

    Regards

    Jerry
    Thank you sir!!!
    Fitness is only a side effect,...I feel alive when I ride!!!

  3. #3253
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    Oh, I was thinking I could post some news.

    I had an accident with my Swift in May. Rear wheel and Nuvinci hub destroyed, and rear triangle measured at a 2,5-3mm offset to left.
    Haven't rebuilt it yet as I received the insurance in November and am happy riding my full-sized "beater", will do soon.
    Yet I put an old set of wheels, no derailleur (using the cassette as singlespeed), and the 2,5-3mm offset is not terrible.
    Handling still seems excellent and replacing the rear tire by a proper tire will make most of the difference. Plus many manufacturer's tolerances are as high a 3mm for the rear triangle, most quality bikes are within 2mm, and dishing/using spacers to compensate is not a big deal imho. Just needs more delicate wheel placement if you use a big tire like a Big Apple as there's not much clearance left - you'll have to add one link to the chain and put it 1 cm behind in the dropouts. End of story.

    Now about the bike before it broke:

    The Nuvinci N360 hub offers impressive and continuous accelerations (putting to shame any derailleur or IGH by a WIDE margin) which, paired with the responsiveness of the Swift and the low rotational mass of the small wheels, made for an excellent city bike. The low mass and high rigidity of the bike makes for ultra fast start-up (first meters), a bit tamed by the weight of the Nuvinci. But then after the first meters, the Nuvinci offers you the best acceleration you could get. So, you get excellent (yet could be better for this frame) startup and then excellent ramp up to speed.

    These are IMHO stellar characteristics for a city bike used ie. in Paris where riding means going from a red light to another one every 100m.

    Yet I'm hesitating between buying a new clickbox and spacer for my Nuvinci hub and having it rebuilt in a new wheel (if the wheel builder says the flange are still ok, they were scraper and the holes suffered a bit but there is quite a lot of material in these flanges so...). My build is super-light in its make: ultra light seatpost, saddle and chainring. So a light derailleur could make an ultra-light bike (<10 kg probably).

    Stellar city bike or ultra-light bike? Hmm... Not an easy choice.

    I could also ride a Moulton and compare it to the Swift.
    The Moulton has a lot of suspension and is quite cushy. Way more comfortable than the Swift. But I hate bouncing up and down on suspension and the Moulton does bounce quite a bit.

    Otho, riding cobblestones on the Swift with Big Apples (run at rather high pressure for efficiency), the bike obviously doesn't bob - but you'd better stand up and have a feather touch on your handlebars. But the bike is super precise and won't deviate from a perfect trajectory, it is very safe. Well, all you have to do is enjoy some mountain biking in the city then! xD

    Regarding the way they handle, especially the direction, they both have that very secure and precise feeling. Not exactly the same way, but rather close.

    Moulton vs Swift: I prefer the Swift.

  4. #3254
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    Went out for my first proper ride today and I’m a bit disappointed, hopefully only temporarily. Not that I was expecting much as I intended to use the initial set-up as a commute bike through the harsh English winter, thereby making use of some of the components that were on it when I purchased it.

    Here’s a not great photo taken on my old mobile phone to give you an idea of the current set-up.

    On the plus side, due to pure luck, this is the best and most comfortable riding position I’ve ever had. Also, at speed and on a clear road it’s fine.

    The problem is at lower speeds mainly due to the fact that it has a coaster brake and the bike feels too sluggish with the heavy stock wheels and hub gear. Or maybe it’s just the Big Apple tyres that make it feel spongy. They look almost new so I thought I should make use of them. But I like a firm ride.

    So now it’s either get a freewheel gear hub, something I know nothing about as I’ve never had a gear hub before, or go for a derailleur system and new lighter wheels. Anyone in UK got a spare rear derailleur hanger?

    One other plus was the I-beam seatpost and saddle, which I really liked. Anyone purchasing this set-up for the first time make sure you pre-stress and nip up the bolts quite a few times before riding on the road.

    SP_A0125copy_zpsf9336df0.jpg

  5. #3255
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    Ok, I went out again and it went much better this time, though that coaster brake is making me look a bit silly at times.

    I put a bit more air in those tyres, no idea how much because I haven’t got a pressure gauge. I’ve only ever ridden 700c tyres where the rule I’ve always followed has been to pump them up as hard as you can get them.

    I love the small drop bars, which help to give me a great position. The distance from tops to drop is less than normal.

    The problem is the SRAM automatix 2-speed rear hub and coaster brake of which I know nothing. It doesn’t seem to want to fit properly. The wheel is over to one side. The unit is as far forward as it will go in the horizontal dropouts and there is very little slack in the chain so not even sure how to get it off.

    Can I put a longer chain on and move it back in the slots a bit or will it then tend to move to one side under load?

  6. #3256
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    Michael,

    I have SRAM A2s on both my Brompton (no coaster brake) and TSR2 (with coaster brake). They are probably better suited to flat terrain and I found I had to adjust them to change at a higher speed (around 11mph). The coaster brake takes a little getting use to but on the whole works well. Saves on rim wear

    On the Brompton




    TSR2 with A2/Coaster Brake



    I am a big hub gear fan but I really like the way the Swift rides with its fitted derailleur system.

    The spacing on the hub is quite narrow so that is why is may be offset slightly. There is some wiggle room by adding spacers but you may need to get the wheel re built to center the hub between the dropouts/get the chain line right.

    PS I don't think your problem is down to BAs. I have them fitted to my stock
    derailleur system fitted Swift, run them at 50psi and they are both fast and VERY comfortable.

    Regards

    Jerry
    Last edited by jerrysimon; 01-13-13 at 04:24 AM.
    Brompton M2L (SRAM A2), Brompton M2L(X), Dahon Uno (SRAM A2), Both Swift Xootr & Moulton TSR2 now gone

  7. #3257
    Drops small screws noteon's Avatar
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    Man, these are some nice, clean Swifts. I'm ashamed to post pics of mine.

    (And hi, all. Haven't been around in a while!)
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  8. #3258
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    Post the pic anyway.

    Mine is new and I am working on roughing/dirtying it up a little so I can lock it up and reduce fear of it be stolen. Yesterday I covered the marking/labels with silver gaffer tape lol

    Jerry
    Brompton M2L (SRAM A2), Brompton M2L(X), Dahon Uno (SRAM A2), Both Swift Xootr & Moulton TSR2 now gone

  9. #3259
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    Hi Jerry!

    Thank you for your reply and for your excellent contributions to the thread,

    Good news, I have my Swift up and running, just in time for the poor weather conditions that have been forecast.

    Borrowed my neighbours pressure gauge, I only had the BA’s pumped up to 20psi, now got them at 70psi, I love a firm ride.

    The hub is centered correctly between the dropouts but the wheel itself appears to be built over to one side by several millimetres and this has been confusing me. I have no wheel building experience or apparatus and arrived at this conclusion after endless measurements with steel rulers from wheel to frame and dropouts. Maybe I can slacken off all the spokes half a turn at a time on one side of the wheel and then tighten the other side the same.

    I added a couple of links to the chain so I can get the hub off. The hub needs some attention, it’s not turning too smoothly and the sprocket is loose but I have nothing to tighten it up with at the moment.

    Not great but it still goes quite nicely and this set up will be good enough to get me through the winter months.

    *

    The wheel reminds me of one of the trips I made on my racing bike with no luggage except for a little musette bag slung over one shoulder.

    I had ridden across Venezuela from the airport and had just gone over the border into Colombia on my way to Bogotá, a wonderful ride that I’ve done several times. I went into Cucuta looking to change some money and was stationary on a corner when a bus knocked me off and it ran over back wheel just nipping the edge of the rim enough to break it.

    I thought that that was the end of my trip and didn’t think the bus driver would have even noticed let alone stop.

    But within seconds I was surrounded by dozens of people including a policeman. My immediate concern was that somebody might try to take advantage of the situation before I could regain my composure, steal my bag or something off the bike.

    But to my amazement the policeman ordered all the people off the busy bus and put my bicycle inside. I was told to get inside too and the driver was instructed to get my bicycle sorted out at his own expense and to take as long as was needed until I was satisfied.

    We found a shop and arranged to have a wheel built around my Mavic hub and I went back the next morning to collect it. The wheel was a bit heavy but I was grateful that I would be able to carry on with my trip.

    Problem was that when I got back to where I was staying and tried to put it on the bike it wouldn’t fit through the brake blocks. It took me a few seconds to realise that the wheel had been built up alarmingly off centre. I was advised to go back into Venezuela and get it redone, which I did and had nothing but trouble with it the rest of the trip. But I was just grateful that I was able to ride out the whole route.

    *

    Hi noteon, please post some pics!


  10. #3260
    Drops small screws noteon's Avatar
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    Oh, there's not much chance of this one being stolen...

    swift_01_13_13.jpg

    537364_10151391110286609_1684625522_n.jpg
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    Last edited by noteon; 01-13-13 at 03:30 PM. Reason: Higher-res picture. Clearly I don't know how to do this.
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  11. #3261
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    In Cambridge bikes go quickly even if they are tatty more so any bike not locked up, which are then just used to the destination and dumped. There are in fact many bikes in the city that are left and then used from one person to the next as and when . That saddle, if it is a Brooks, would go quickly too as would any QR wheels if not cable locked.

    PS thanks for the pics. It does not look bad to me and in fact appears very functional and well laid out.

    Jerry
    Last edited by jerrysimon; 01-13-13 at 05:08 PM.
    Brompton M2L (SRAM A2), Brompton M2L(X), Dahon Uno (SRAM A2), Both Swift Xootr & Moulton TSR2 now gone

  12. #3262
    Senior Member Paul Braithwait's Avatar
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    Managed to get out this week for my first ride since last August! Been working six days a week, took delivery of new grandson and nearly drowned by a year of rain. I hope 2013 gives me more time to ride.
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  13. #3263
    Drops small screws noteon's Avatar
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    Yes, it's a Brooks B17. On the rare occasions when I have to lock the bike where I can't see it, I take the whole seat mast out and lock the bike in half-folded configuration so your less savvy bike thief can't tell what exactly is going on with it.

    These pics you guys are posting are really nice. I think I have shiny frame envy.
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  14. #3264
    Part-time epistemologist invisiblehand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noteon View Post
    Oh, there's not much chance of this one being stolen...

    swift_01_13_13.jpg
    Do you still pull kids in the trailer with the Swift?

    FWIW, the trailer is more level with a 20" rear wheel if you flip the trailer mount over. See the last picture here ...

  15. #3265
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    Hey! No, they have their own 20" bikes now. The only thing I use the trailer for anymore is hauling their bikes home after we all ride to school.

    I tried flipping the trailer mount up, and it did level the arm, but I didn't feel secure with a hundred-whatever-pound trailer hooked to it that way. (Don't remember why, exactly.) I wasn't having any problems with it down, so I just put it back. No issues...
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  16. #3266
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    Hi everyone.

    Love this bike now. Been using it for my daily commute.

    First time I’ve ever used mudguards. Been riding on wet roads with the odd light snow flurry and some freezing fog and the thing is still spotlessly clean.

    Looking for some light fast 406 wheels and have posted on the ‘Making a Swift lighter’ thread if anyone wishes to share their experiences.

    Thank you.

  17. #3267
    Senior Member mtalinm's Avatar
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    55mm Big Bens

    I am not sure whether the new "Big Ben" tires from Schwalbe will fit the Swift. these are the wide(r) version of the big Apple tires with a bit more tread for offroading.

    I have two Swifts and wanted to mount it alternately on the one for light mountain biking and the other for commuting.

    now here's the interesting thing: it clears the fork on the older (2006) Swift just fine but scrapes a bit against the newer (2011) frame. not sure what is going on.

    anyone else have experience trying to "fit the fatties"? again, these are not the 50mm/2" tires but the 55mm/2.15s.
    Trek Domane 4.5 (commute/distance), Specialized Roubaix (climber), Xootr Swift (winter/travel), Trek Soho (around town)

  18. #3268
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    Interesting tyre and first time I have come across them. Did not make the initial London connection. As you say they are 55/2.15. I have Big Apples 50/2.0 on my swift (2011) and even those only "just" fit. I think they are one of the best upgrades you can make to the Swift in terms of improving comfort whilst maintaining its nippy ride.

    Jerry
    Brompton M2L (SRAM A2), Brompton M2L(X), Dahon Uno (SRAM A2), Both Swift Xootr & Moulton TSR2 now gone

  19. #3269
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    Hi everyone.

    I got my rear mech hanger from the US and am now ready to ditch the rear hub gear and change to a 9-speed cassette/derailleur system (not Capreo).


    Any hints, dos and don’ts, things to watch out for? Hubs, rear derailleur, 130mm or 135mm spacing etc.

    Any experiences good and bad appreciated

    Thank you.

  20. #3270
    Senior Member Paul Braithwait's Avatar
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    I managed to get out on my Swift again today - that's only twice this year! A clear, sunny if cold day gave me the chance to try out new shoes and pedals. I also added a Deuter frame bag which fits nicely below the main frame spar. This bag contains; mini-pump, inner tubes, puncture repair kit, tyre levers and multi-tool. It helps to keep the weight down low (not that its that heavy) and frees up the Carradice seat pack for waterproof jacket, camera and food.

    I also found a bracket to hold a rear light - using one of the seat post quick releases and that works well. Pedals are Shimano single sided SPD models which come fitted with reflectors and enable the rider to use either SPD or "normal" shoes. Being winter with a lot of debris on the roads, I'm sticking with the original wheels fitted with heavy Marathon tyres to prevent punctures. I'll switch to lighter wheels and tyres if summer ever arrives!
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  21. #3271
    Portable Audio/Bike Lover tds101's Avatar
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    Beautiful ride my friend,...treat her well.
    Fitness is only a side effect,...I feel alive when I ride!!!

  22. #3272
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    Has anyone here had trouble with the lower clamp on the seattube? I find it takes a terrific amount of force to close it tightly enough that it actually holds the seatpost.

  23. #3273
    Drops small screws noteon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nstone View Post
    Has anyone here had trouble with the lower clamp on the seattube? I find it takes a terrific amount of force to close it tightly enough that it actually holds the seatpost.
    Same here. That's just how these bikes are.

    I have a vague memory of hearing, a few years ago, that a redesign was in consideration, but I don't know any more than that.
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  24. #3274
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    Quote Originally Posted by nstone View Post
    Has anyone here had trouble with the lower clamp on the seattube? I find it takes a terrific amount of force to close it tightly enough that it actually holds the seatpost.
    Yes this is a common problem - but can be overcome. Firstly you need a snug fitting post to minimise the work the clamp needs to do. There are small differences in thickness between seatposts of the same size. I got my swift in 2007 and since then Peter Reich has been having the seatposts made 'thicker' and I got him to send me the thicker one. If the post is not quite snug enough you can effectively thicken it by putting a thin layer of grease on it. That sounds like it would make it more likely to slip but once it's properly tight it's not going to budge. A wax-based 'clean-drying' grease would probably be the best for convenience.

    Then you need a good quality seat clamp and you need to keep that lubricated at the point where the friction is on the cam.

    But ignore what I just said about post thickness for now and start with the simplest thing: Loosen off your current clamp, lube it, tighten it up again. By lubricating it you should be able to achieve a much higher clamping force. If that's not enough, consider a new seatpost skewer. I recently got a new one - real cheap one, but made a big difference compared to the old one that was worn out. Expect to have to replace the skewer after a few years - you need that cam to be nice and smooth.

    You should not be able to twist the saddle when just the bottom clamp is done up.

    Good luck.

  25. #3275
    jur
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    Word of caution - too much force at the seat clamp can damage the frame. So stop at the point where the lower clamp holds it just snug.

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