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Thread: swift folders

  1. #1201
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    My Swift started acting weird yesterday and I'm not certain why. It's got about 400 miles on it now and whenever I'm pedaling where the drive train is put under stress, generally uphill but sometimes on flats, I get a clunking sensation in the pedals that is strong enough to be audible. This is felt primarily in the right pedal when it's near bottom on the downstroke and happens consistently at the same point. You can feel it and it resonates in the frame, too, such that I can hear a clunk (I'm not sure how to exactly describe it).

    I'm running with a dualdrive and am not sure if it's a problem with the casette or possibly the chain is stretching or if it's a sign of a problem with the bottom bracket? My last ride before this started happening was on a packed gravel/dirt trail for 20 miles. Somewhat rough but not terrible but everything got really dusted up. My rides also include at least one steep climb (4% up to 13%) of about a mile or so, so on commute days it gets two of these hauls.

    I suspect it's not the Swift but just thought I'd see if you guys had any ideas.

  2. #1202
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    flea, tighten your crank bolts.
    Last edited by maunakea; 07-20-07 at 12:13 AM.

  3. #1203
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    Quote Originally Posted by mosquito View Post
    Correct. I'm turning and turning but it doesn't come out. I called David from bfold, he says the nut might be stripped and that I might have to drill the bolt. Bah! We shall see.
    Yes, the nut is a captive nut within the RT arm. Sounds like the nut is turning within the RT arm. If you have to drill the bolt out, you trash the bolt and the nut. You can do an ugly fix with a longer bolt and external nut.

    I know this is hindsight.... put anti-seize on the pivot bolt threads (or the threads of any bolt mating with a captive nut).

  4. #1204
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    Quote Originally Posted by maunakea View Post
    Yes, the nut is a captive nut within the RT arm. Sounds like the nut is turning within the RT arm. If you have to drill the bolt out, you trash the bolt and the nut. You can do an ugly fix with a longer bolt and external nut.

    I know this is hindsight.... put anti-seize on the pivot bolt threads (or the threads of any bolt mating with a captive nut).
    My swift doesn't have a captive nut, it's a Nylock nut so anti-sieze may not be the right thing. I was able to fit a 10mm socket in there. When the nut was off, I still puzzled about how the get the bolt out; initially I thought it screws out but later found it's simply a snug fit and I had to tap it lightly from the threaded end to get it out.
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

  5. #1205
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    On my Swift, the captive nut side of the fitting is sealed. No lateral opening, just the medial opening into which the bolt threads are inserted. That helps in that there's only one way to insert the pivot bolt, but certainly presents a "dead end" if the captive nut starts turning.

    Jur, did you buy your bike new (in which case the designs are different)? If not, perhaps the previous owner had a captive nut problem.

  6. #1206
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    If you look at some of the pics in my Swift album (see sig) you can vaguely make out the details. The nut is on the drive side. The frame was bought new, so that is how it is designed. It is the alum version, are we on the same model?
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

  7. #1207
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    Quote Originally Posted by jur View Post
    It is the alum version, are we on the same model?
    My Swift's frame is steel. That explains it.

  8. #1208
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    Jur: that's the thing, the nut won't unscrew.

  9. #1209
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    Quote Originally Posted by mosquito View Post
    Jur: that's the thing, the nut won't unscrew.

    If it is stripped, before taking a drill to it, take a punch and tap/whack the bolt (thru the nut from the nut side), the idea being that you will force the nut to engage the bolt beyond the stripped threads... if this doesn't work, then a drill would be my next choice.

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    Yep, went to see David Lam from Bfold. He says I need a drill. Oh well. Thank for the help guys. On a lighter note, I managed to pack my other swift into an Oyster.

  11. #1211
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    new steel swifts

    [QUOTE=jasong;4756260]Any information given on anticipated price? Some people had written before about something in the $700 range for a frame, but that's not for the standard aluminum frames as I just got one a week ago for the normal $390 price.

    Here's what Peter had to say a couple days ago about the price of the new more-packable steel frame swifts that he's expecting in the fall - "The new steel version will be about $100 more, it seems, and I am expecting the nxt batch of aluminum frames before the end of the month."

  12. #1212
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    Ok guys, finally got both swifts in their suitcases. Got a couple of questions before I tackle the airline people. Should I put a big 'FRAGILE' on the suitcases? Should I duct tape the suitcases? Any tips will help, this is only my second airline trip and I'm a little nervous, I've heard of nightmares about airline people destroying property.

  13. #1213
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    Oh, and can I bring tools such as pedal wrenches with me as carry on?

  14. #1214
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    Definitely duct tape the latches.
    Include pix under the top straps of how the bike fits in the suitcase.
    Pack tools with the bikes. TSA will confiscate them if in carryons.
    IME, "Fragile" labels have no effect, and may invite abuse.
    Use spacers (e.g., PVC tubing with bases) to prevent compression of the suitcase sides.

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    Thanks maunakea. I was really worried about the tools question.

    One last question. I took apart the xootr swift and put it back together. However, when I tighten the headset too much this time, the fork doesn't turn. It can steer again when I loosen it, but then there's a rattle on the fork. Does anyone know what the problem is?

  16. #1216
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    Sounds like a bearing retainer installed upside-down.

  17. #1217
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    Thanks, will check that out.

  18. #1218
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    Quote Originally Posted by maunakea View Post
    flea, tighten your crank bolts.
    That seems to have done it, thanks.

  19. #1219
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    Quote Originally Posted by james Haury View Post
    Does anyone own a swift folder that is one brand of folding bicycle never mentioned here.They may be a good alternative for someone seeking the single ride albeit not cheap.
    I ordered my Swift Wednesday and had it by Friday via UPS Ground (amazing!). I bought it to take along on trips, for short rides but also wanted something suitable for longer rides should the opportunity arise. I took the bike for a brief spin around the neighborhood yesterday and took it to the bike trail today for a longer ride. I planned to ride just a few miles but ended up doing 20 miles, pretty much non-stop. I was enjoying the ride and just didn't feel like stopping. According to my GPS I averaged around 12-15 miles per hour. The bike is much more comfortable than I expected it to be over distance. My ride today was pretty much flat. Not a lot of steep hills on the trail I was riding. Based on shifting on inclines I'm guessing step hills may be a bit of a challenge but we'll see. I also think I'll end up making changes to the handlebars and/or grips just to give myself some more hand position options. I may also have to add clipless pedals since I have a tendency to turn my feet and torque my knees, no matter which bike I'm riding.

    The Swift does not fold as compactly as some other folders and this was one of my hesitations about choosing the Swift. Now that I have the bike I don't think this will be an issue. Popping the handlebars off is easy and makes the bike more compact; enough for my needs anyway.

    So far, I really like the bike, if for no other reason than it's fun. It adds variety to my riding choices. I may even take it on one of the supported rides still to come this summer.
    Last edited by Funyet; 07-28-07 at 12:03 PM.

  20. #1220
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    Hi All,

    A few questions for experienced swift owners.

    1. I believe I have the typical straight/stock handlebars. I'm considering adding some bar ends (or is it barends?) and/or replacing the handlebar with something a bit wider. I find the steering a bit more squirrely (the tems I think I've seen others use) than I would like and am wondering whether adding bar end s either alone or in addition to a new handlebar might be a worthwhile change/upgrade to consider. Does anyone have any replacement handlebar and/or bar end suggestions? I don't want downturned bars, but I'm willing to consider both typical/less typical bar designs.

    2. I currently have some brand of folding pedals (push a button to fold). I'm considering changing to detachable pedals as I think is will offer me more toe clip, strap, clipless options. I'm a recreational rider and I'm afraid that "power straps" might be too dangerous and that clipless pedals and shoes might be overkill. Does anyone want to recommend a toe clip model that would work on detachable pedals?

    3. Are there any night riders out there that think they have a good headlight/tail light/side light/reflector setup that doesn't mess up the folding and is easy to manage/remove/recharge?

    4. Attaching a pump? I'm thinking of just using velcro straps...anyone have some other suggestions/tips?

    5. I'm a 250 pounder... any suggestions regarding wheels/tires/seats/suspension that you think I should consider?

    Thanks in advance to those who offer tips and insight regarding these and other things.

  21. #1221
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom View Post
    2. I currently have some brand of folding pedals (push a button to fold). I'm considering changing to detachable pedals as I think is will offer me more toe clip, strap, clipless options. I'm a recreational rider
    I think you mean power grips - why are those more dangerous? I think most would agree that they're less risky, as getting the foot out is more guaranteed than with a clip. I use power grips on a few folding bikes with MKS AR-2 pedals (detachable). Everyone has seemed to have very good comments about the MKS pedals, though time will tell. They aren't too cheap , $60.

  22. #1222
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom View Post
    1. I believe I have the typical straight/stock handlebars. I'm considering adding some bar ends (or is it barends?) and/or replacing the handlebar with something a bit wider....
    You can get a 550mm aluminum flat bar, and aluminum bar ends, very affordably from Nashbar. You will probably want different grips as well. Very easy to swap it out. It will not make the handling too much different though, as the oversteer is a result of the wheel size.


    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom
    2. I currently have some brand of folding pedals (push a button to fold)....
    I say go clipless. Users of detachable pedals say it works ok.


    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom
    3. Are there any night riders out there that think they have a good headlight/tail light/side light/reflector setup that doesn't mess up the folding and is easy to manage/remove/recharge?
    Reflectors are worthless. Just get a small front light and a small back light. It won't mess up the fold.

  23. #1223
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom View Post
    1. I believe I have the typical straight/stock handlebars. I'm considering adding some bar ends (or is it barends?) and/or replacing the handlebar with something a bit wider.
    Barends can make flat handlebars much more comfortable by offering additional positions; they're also great for out-of-the-saddle climbing. But as someone else said, I don't think they're going to change the handling one way or another. You'll probably get used to the different feel after a few more rides.

    I can't help with folding pedal and power grip info; I ride strictly clipless, which I find safer and more convenient than toe clips, the downside being you've got to have your bike shoes with you.


    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom View Post
    3. Are there any night riders out there that think they have a good headlight/tail light/side light/reflector setup that doesn't mess up the folding and is easy to manage/remove/recharge?
    For headlights, I highly recommend the Dinotte's. http://www.dinottelighting.com Not inexpensive, but no where near the high end, either. They are amazingly bright, very easy to install and remove, very stable, etc. Their customer service is also first rate. I like Planet Bike's Superflash as a rear blinky, and have one on the back of my helmet, and one on my seatbag.

    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom View Post
    4. Attaching a pump? I'm thinking of just using velcro straps...anyone have some other suggestions/tips?
    I use a CO2 inflator w/ my Swift, as it and a couple cartridges easily fit into my seat bag. Pumps have their advantages, but even if going w/ a pump, I would get a model that fits inside a seat bag for any folder. I might feel differently if I got more than a couple flats/year.


    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom View Post
    5. I'm a 250 pounder... any suggestions regarding wheels/tires/seats/suspension that you think I should consider?
    The Schwalbe Big Apple tires are very well regarded for improving the cushion of the ride without too much of a performance penalty (or none at all, other than the additional rotating weight, depending on who you talk to). If unhappy with the comfort of the stock setup, that's the first mod. I'd try.

    Good luck, and welcome to the Swift fold.

    Jack

  24. #1224
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    Thanks to everyone who's replied (so far) ... I'm still interested in hearing from others regarding interesting/helpful equipment options that are particularly well suited for (mostly Recreational use) level Xootr Swift riders.

    Does anyone have any "when transporting Xootr Swifts in the trunk of your car or back of your SUV" tips, suggestions, or watch out for's... (Any areas of the swift that need special attention/protection when traveling?

    Overall, I think this Swift thread is great...but very long. As a Xootr community can/should we improve on it in some way? (Ideas/commets)

  25. #1225
    All ur bike r belong Enki james_swift's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvroom View Post
    Hi All,
    I find the steering a bit more squirrely (the tems I think I've seen others use) than I would like and am wondering whether adding bar end s either alone or in addition to a new handlebar might be a worthwhile change/upgrade to consider.
    A slightly longer stem will alleviate some of the "squirrel-iness" in the handling. The next time you're out on a ride, without tilting your head, look down at your front hub. Does the hub appear in front of the handlebar? If so, how much (estimate)?

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