[BTW, 62" suitcase? That's a pretty big bag.[/QUOTE]
length + width + girth is right about 62" by my measure.
You're right, it is an odd measure. I think only airlines and freight companies measure luggage and parcels that way, but it's the airline reasoning that I was picking up on.
It doesn't even have sockets to mount breaks in the rear.
I wonder if the ride feels different.
The stronger angle of the seatpost might cause the seatpost to suspend a little to the back.
This might increase the comfort of the ride. But also it will put some more stress on the whole part where the seatpost is inserted. I remember earliert posts about broken aluminum frames...
Apologies in advance if I'm asking for information that's already been posted, but with 58 pages of Swift topics to to get through I thought I'd attempt a short-cut. Firstly, am I correct in thinking that the rear spacing on the Xootr Swift is 135mm, and secondly, using the factory-installed BB and crankset, is there a SS/fixed hub that can be readily used without having to make any alterations to achieve a good chain line? Thanks.
More New Swift Pics, straight from Peter:
Surly makes a 135mm mtb fixed hub with a 52mm chainline which should match the chainline with the stock bottom bracket:
The Surly 130mm New Road fixed hub has a 47.5mm chainline. Throw-on 2 x 1mm axle spacers on each side of the axle to bring it to 134mm. Pair it with a 68 x 107 BB for a ~48mm front chainline.
James. Thankyou very much for the quick reply. It's time to order another bike, I think.
Relevant to my "wrong Surly hub fitted" earlier posts....
I want the tire centered and the chain line within reasonable alignment. If this means ordering a new Surly hub so be it. I may end up re-lacing the wheel myself. You know what they say.. "If you want a job done right...". At some point I will be selling a literally 'nearly new' 120mm Surly fixed/free hub, if anyone needs one.
OTOH, I may just throw some washers into the mix, center the tire more, and try riding it even though the chain line will be a little off. I'm a newbie to riding fixed so this all was just an experiment anyhow. If I enjoy riding my Swift as Swixie, then I can make it right. Heck, then I might even spring for a Phil hub.
On a fixed bike, chainline is more important than how equidistant the wheel sits between the rear track ends. A bad chainline can cause a slew of problems, including friction, noise, and possibly even the chain to drop (which can be hazardous). Having messed with my fixed Swift for over a year, my advice to you is to get it to where the chainring and the rear cog are as close to alignment as possible.
1.) Getting a measurement of your front chainline.
- Hold a ruler against the seat tube and measure the distance to the middle of the chainring teeth. Add 20mm to the result. This is your front chainline.
2.) Getting a measurement of your rear chainline.
- I suggest first re-spacing the axle to match your Swift's rear spacing. If you have an older Swift with 132.5mm spacing, then simply add 1 x 1mm axle spacers to each side of the axle. If you have a newer Swift with 135mm rear spacing, then add 2 x 1mm spacers to each side of the axle.
- Measure the distance from the inside of the rear fork end (or the outside of the axle locknut) to the middle of the sprocket. Double this, subtract it from 132mm (older Swift) or 134mm (newer Swift). This is your rear chainline.
Now the challenge is getting the 2 measurements as close as possible. If your chainline is off by more than 4mm, then you'll most likely need to change your bottom bracket and/or move the chainring to the inside position of the crank spider (or vice versa). You could also adjust using chainring spacers.
If you plan to move the rear axle spacers around, keep in mind that adding 2 mm of spacers to any one side of the axle will push the chainline 1 mm in the opposite direction.
Time to bump this thread.
This near the summit of Mt Buller. Despite being near the middle of summer, quite cold up there.
My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/
CYCLING socks with CYCLING sandals = no fashion faux pas.
I do that pretty much year round -- and with shoe covers too, in the winter!
You can laugh at me if you want, but you had better be able to ride or you will be laughing way far back behind me!
Go, Jur, GO!
What is preferred [inexpensive] 1 1/8" threaded headset with stack height compatible for swift? Found out the hard way the dia compe with compression sleeve (that doesn't need big tools) won't fit. There is not a big selection of 1 1/8" threaded headsets anymore.
Time to bump this one back up.
Anyone know anything else about the timetable or other details on the new steel Swift frame?
Werewolf, was there a price announced for the steel frame only kit?
Not that I know of.
A fellow commuter got a Swift lesson today... I was riding to work on my Swift, briskly, when this chap, shaved legs and full lycra on a MTB with slicks comes powering by. I sing out, "Is it OK if I suck wheel?" He mumbles, "Yes, OK by me..." and powers on. I fall into his slipstream, enjoying the ride. Only, this chap thought folders/small wheels aren't serious bikes, so after a minute or so he looks back, and surprised to see this grey chap with billowing shorts and dorky shirt actually sticking to his wheel, he piles on more power. So do I. Occasionally I see him looking at his heart rate monitor. He glances back again, this small wheeled bike is still there! More power! This is getting enjoyable! A nice fast ride to work and not much to do!
After 5 minutes or so I accelerate past him, murmering, "My turn for a pull!" I didn't have my speedo mounted, so I just went, but must have upped the pace inadvertently because in my mirror I saw the guy falling behind. I slowed down some and settle into a nice pace, but still I saw the chap struggling in my wake.
Another 5 minutes and I turn off, signalling, he slows down too, says, "Wow these folding bikes fly, at least when you're on them!"
My Swift, my secret weapon...
Last edited by jur; 03-11-08 at 12:39 AM.
My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/