Sheygetz

Ok, so now I have a cool bike, a Dahon Speed TR, with a dynamo hub. But my rear-light isn't connected to it, but has to be battery powered. So I still need to carry spare batteries, because they always run out of power when needed most. I'd like to connect a non-battery taillight to my Joule II dynomo hub. I've heard it has been done, but how exactly do I go about it?

Hendrik

fietsbob

I have 2 hub dynamo light setups, both wire the taillight to a plug in the headlight,
and a 2nd wire to the mounting bolt as the ground/return for the electric circuit/

the headlight, connects to the hub, with it's 2 wires..

badmother

Maybe you can find what you need here? https://lovelybike.blogspot.no/search?q=dynamo+lights

... or here: https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdispl...ng-amp-Gadgets

rodar y rodar

Most of my lights have been like Fietsbob says- one double wire from the hub to the headlight, then another two-strand wire from the headlight to the tail light. That`s how I`ve used dyno powered tail lights with two different manufacturers headlights. With my first dyno headlight, I never tried to hook it up to the tail light, and don`t remember if it had two sets of contacts. Since your headlight apparently has only one plug or pair of contacts, I would guess you can wire your tail light by doubling up on the connections, but probably best to ask on the section where Badmother linked to make sure. For whatever its worth, I do use dyno powered lights front and rear on my non-folding daily driver, but decided to stay with a battery powered tail light on my folder. IMO, it`s already complicated enough without the extra wire, though you might have different views or priorities.

Sheygetz

Thanks guys. I have a Dahon Speed TR. It does come with headlight, but I won't be keeping that for long. So I actually don't know yet what kind of connectors I will find. But it's good to know the taillight doesn't have to go to the hub itsself, but to the headlight.

Yes, I'd rather do w/o extra wiring, but my experience is that batteries do give out when you need them.

rodar y rodar

Understandable. There`s definitely something to be said for always having lights available without ever having to think about them.

Yeah, if for some reason the folks in the know say not to double up your connections, your next light should make it easy. My current headlight is by B&M, it comes with two wire stubs hanging out from it with small (2mm?) spade connectors on each wire end, so you could probably buy the female connectors locally with no problem. My last light was an Inoled- required coaxial plugs, which were included with the light.

LWaB

I just use 2 battery powered tail lights. They don't both die at the same time.

MichaelW

I just connected a rear LED to my B&M Cyo. My old Fly has output terminals for spade connectors. The Cyo has output leads with spade connectors.
I wrap the lead around the front lamp mount once to anchor against pulling, then ductape it to the rear brake cable. I run it onto the rear rack stays then down on top of the rear fender then onto the lamp on the rear rack. I give a few wraps around the bracket then use spade connectors into the lamp.
I always like to have a bit of excess cable incase I decide to change the routing. Folding bike can do funny things to the rear cable run.

fietsbob

FWIW B&M 4D Toplight Senso Plus, a rack mount , has an external input from the dynamo
Thats the 'plus' .. batteries:2AA, LED's :4..

I've fitted a B&M Line Plus, on my Bi-Fri, They make more light
thru lens reflections, efficiently , with less diodes.

Snolygoster

Michael, I have a Cyo myself, and just bought a Philips LumiRing rear light. As you mentioned, the headlight has a pair of spade connectors, as does the taillight, but I can't seem to find anywhere to buy the pre-made wire with the spade receptors already wired (ideally, I'd also like the terminators to have an outer rubber coating).

This would be perfect if both ends had the spade receptacles:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/schmidt-c...15905/?geoc=jp

What did you use?

fietsbob

the trick with my Pocket Llama was leaving a loop of extra wire , right where the seat post hinge is.

I have a velcro band holding the loop. loosely, so it allows movement..

I also leave slack at the fork .. good thing.. as .. if the QR skewer is loose the axle will rotate ,
because of the magnetic drag.

I unwrapped the wire from around the axle, before the wire broke..

wahoonc

Check with David at Dutch Bike Bits I bought the bits and pieces and build my own cables. I use heat shrink tubing on the connectors to cover them. I can purchase the tubing at an electronics store like Radio Shack or sometimes in the electrical section of general stores or home centers.

Aaron