Want to convert Montague Crosstown to drops for touring
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Want to convert Montague Crosstown to drops for touring
First post!
I've got a Montague Crosstown, which I picked up about a month and a half ago (as it would fit in my trunk when folded, despite large wheels) to start commuting with.
I replaced the twist shifter for a trigger shifter and quickly got up to doing 30-50 mile weekend rides and riding during the week to work but hadn't ridden a bike for nearly a decade. I'm 6' tall and 190lb and I don't lean forward past to where I feel like my hands are taking a lot of weight - but I'm having issues with numbness in my ring and pinky fingers (compressed nerve) after 30 mile rides even with some good gloves and ergo grips. Regardless, I tried bar ends for more hand positions and they didn't do enough - even putting the bar ends in the center similar to Bontrager's Touring bar ( https://bontrager.com/model/04996 ) I still spend too much time on the flats. I thought about getting clip on aero bars... but I'm not sure I like the lack of control as half my riding is in a bike lane on public roads in the morning. I think butteryfly bars just look strange - so that leaves drops.
I've never ridden a bike with drops, oddly enough. And I dislike the idea of bar end shifters.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but this is my gameplan:
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I know it would have made more sense to get a dedicated road bike, but I got it into my head I wanted another folding Bike after having my Fuji for years (even though it sat unused for so long). I am okay with the extra weight and I thought the Montague design looked/worked neat. Only complaint is bottle mounts, but I ride with a camelback when I'm not commuting (which is only 4 miles to work each way so water isn't much an issue).
I've got a Montague Crosstown, which I picked up about a month and a half ago (as it would fit in my trunk when folded, despite large wheels) to start commuting with.
I replaced the twist shifter for a trigger shifter and quickly got up to doing 30-50 mile weekend rides and riding during the week to work but hadn't ridden a bike for nearly a decade. I'm 6' tall and 190lb and I don't lean forward past to where I feel like my hands are taking a lot of weight - but I'm having issues with numbness in my ring and pinky fingers (compressed nerve) after 30 mile rides even with some good gloves and ergo grips. Regardless, I tried bar ends for more hand positions and they didn't do enough - even putting the bar ends in the center similar to Bontrager's Touring bar ( https://bontrager.com/model/04996 ) I still spend too much time on the flats. I thought about getting clip on aero bars... but I'm not sure I like the lack of control as half my riding is in a bike lane on public roads in the morning. I think butteryfly bars just look strange - so that leaves drops.
I've never ridden a bike with drops, oddly enough. And I dislike the idea of bar end shifters.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but this is my gameplan:
- Get an Anatomic bar. I was thinking the Bontrager is relatively cost-effective and looks to be good sized unless someone has some other recommendations.
- Get ST-2300 shifter/brakes - Tektro Calipers have less than 1cm of cable travel - I think this means I can use them with road levers without issue.
- With the ST-2300, I need to replace the rear cassette from a 7speed to an 8speed. I don't know if this also impacts anything else or the easiest way to do it or if I can just get an 8sped cassette with a dished inner gear.
- The rear Altus derailleur does not have the same travel as a road derailleur , so I think I need a new rear derailleur .
- As I lack a front derailleur (Montague Crosstown), the other lever just functions for brakes.
- Eventually get a clamp on front derailleur if I feel like it.
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I know it would have made more sense to get a dedicated road bike, but I got it into my head I wanted another folding Bike after having my Fuji for years (even though it sat unused for so long). I am okay with the extra weight and I thought the Montague design looked/worked neat. Only complaint is bottle mounts, but I ride with a camelback when I'm not commuting (which is only 4 miles to work each way so water isn't much an issue).
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If you have never ridden a bike with drop bars, perhaps you should borrow or rent one for a day before modifying yours. You may discover that you don't want them after all. (I know this is heresy, but I personally hate them.) As far as I know, it's not a trivial or inexpensive mod, so it would be good to be sure it's what you want.
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A trekking bar would swap straight on,give you multiple hand positions,and you'd be able to get aero when down in the 'drops'.
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If you are strictly concerned about numbness issues, then I would reconsider trekking/butterfly bars. I had hand numbness issues on my Origami Crane which were eliminated by swapping out for Nashbar Trekking bars. (I had to add a quick release to the stem so that it would fold.). On a Montague they would look something like these Internet photos:
Drop bars will interfere with the fold of a Montague without developing some kind of work a round. The left drop will intersect with the rear wheel when folded.
Now, if you REALLY want to go the drop bar route, I can show you the path of least resistance. However, I wanted drops for the option of a more aero ride, but I'm still getting used to them and still feel some hand tingling at times. (If the hand issue becomes more serious I will have to consider trekking bars like I installed on my Origami, but at this time I think I'm going to be fine.)
I have worked around the folding interference by using Origin 8 Dropbar Ends:
This photo shows the drops with Tektro RL520 drop bar brake levers (long pull, for v-brakes) and Tektro RL741 cross levers on the flat bar (also for v-brakes). I find the addition of cross levers makes a great transition for a person not accustomed to drop bars. My current shifters are twist shifters but trigger shifters are in the box waiting for installation, at which point I'll streamline the cockpit cables a bit.
When folding the bike I quickly loosen the Allen bolt on the left drop bar end so that I can rotate it up like so:
I hope this information is helpful.
Good luck,
Bill
Drop bars will interfere with the fold of a Montague without developing some kind of work a round. The left drop will intersect with the rear wheel when folded.
Now, if you REALLY want to go the drop bar route, I can show you the path of least resistance. However, I wanted drops for the option of a more aero ride, but I'm still getting used to them and still feel some hand tingling at times. (If the hand issue becomes more serious I will have to consider trekking bars like I installed on my Origami, but at this time I think I'm going to be fine.)
I have worked around the folding interference by using Origin 8 Dropbar Ends:
This photo shows the drops with Tektro RL520 drop bar brake levers (long pull, for v-brakes) and Tektro RL741 cross levers on the flat bar (also for v-brakes). I find the addition of cross levers makes a great transition for a person not accustomed to drop bars. My current shifters are twist shifters but trigger shifters are in the box waiting for installation, at which point I'll streamline the cockpit cables a bit.
When folding the bike I quickly loosen the Allen bolt on the left drop bar end so that I can rotate it up like so:
I hope this information is helpful.
Good luck,
Bill
Last edited by Bill Fold; 07-15-13 at 01:15 PM.
#6
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I think butteryfly bars just look strange - so that leaves drops.
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Below is a pic of a Montague with drop bars. I suppose the owner turns the stem outward when folding. If you can afford the extra width during folded mode that's fine. My trunk is pretty tight, so I need my bike as flat as possible.
Source: https://www.montaguebikes.com/folding...folding-bikes/
Source: https://www.montaguebikes.com/folding...folding-bikes/
#9
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That's mine. Really quite a difference between the original flat bars/grips/levers and the current setup.
I've done a bunch of mustache bar conversions like this. Tall Nitto Technomic stem with very little extension, to bring the bars closer to you. If you used a typical short road stem with a fair amt of extension, you'd almost be in the tuck position.
I've done a bunch of mustache bar conversions like this. Tall Nitto Technomic stem with very little extension, to bring the bars closer to you. If you used a typical short road stem with a fair amt of extension, you'd almost be in the tuck position.
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That's mine. Really quite a difference between the original flat bars/grips/levers and the current setup.
I've done a bunch of mustache bar conversions like this. Tall Nitto Technomic stem with very little extension, to bring the bars closer to you. If you used a typical short road stem with a fair amt of extension, you'd almost be in the tuck position.
I've done a bunch of mustache bar conversions like this. Tall Nitto Technomic stem with very little extension, to bring the bars closer to you. If you used a typical short road stem with a fair amt of extension, you'd almost be in the tuck position.
#11
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are you still having issues with numbness fingers on a shorter ride?
have you try to put your saddle a little bit forward?
once I have same issues, until I move my saddle just a little bit forward. it is not only how tall are you and what size your bike is, but also comparison body length and leg
have you try to put your saddle a little bit forward?
once I have same issues, until I move my saddle just a little bit forward. it is not only how tall are you and what size your bike is, but also comparison body length and leg
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