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Folding Bikes Discuss the unique features and issues of folding bikes. Also a great place to learn what folding bike will work best for your needs.

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Old 11-29-13, 12:03 PM   #26
fietsbob 
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you might buy 2 New chainrings in 110 bcd in the sizes you want for one of those 50-34t cranksets ..

I , in the 80's, bought a Campag Mountain Bike [discontinued] crank, I got it with a 52,42,26t chainring set ..

they used a standard 5 bolt pattern, like Sun tour/Shimano then..
proved to be interchangeable with the M730XT. same BB.

Its on my Loaded tour bike.. Campag Olympus Rt side actually heavier than the M730 arm
[ now running a 50-38-24]
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Old 11-30-13, 09:44 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by yumseyo View Post
Wouldn't I be better off just replacing the bottom bracket with something lighter and newer?
That's a good question, and I don't know the answer. I guess I've been figuring the Tern would have a proprietary width BB, making replacement difficult, but I don't know if that's true. There should be plenty of folks around here with expertise in that area and who can give you a useful answer.

Another thing to think about is chain line, as in whether outboard bearings are workable in this application. Being a shorter drivetrain, I suspect chain line is more sensitive.
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Old 11-30-13, 10:16 PM   #28
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Another cool and lightweight crank option would be the Tune Bigfoot. They're silly light, like sub 400gm, and square taper, so straight bolt-on (assuming Tern uses same square taper BB, but I'm not sure). The only problem is that they're over the budget by about $125, but you won't get anything lighter I don't think: http://www.bike24.com/p211362.html

EDIT: Too bad we missed these! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Storck-Power...p2047675.l2557

Old Storck Power Arms are wicked light, too, the one above 470gm with 53/39! Went for a little above $100 over budget, but maybe you can track down another set. Carbon would look cool!
Can anyone see why it might not be the best and brightest idea to use an expensive carbon crank on a bike that folds and might; get set down on the drive side, have things set on it or dropped on it, or get tipped over and smack up the crank arms ?

The crank on my Moulten is a vintage Sugino Competition which is 900 grams (double chainwheel) which is about the same weight as my Stronglight 49D on my full sized race bike, crank on the P20 is a Deore with a 110 bcd that runs a 40/48/53 tooth triple.

I have run down, caught, and then passed groups of moderately skilled riders over 10km on my P20 and sustained and exceeded speeds of over 40kmh for that distance... albeit when I was rolling on racing tyres and had a more stripped down ride.

I just picked up a new rear wheel for the P20 with an 11-32 cassette (9 speed) and will build a front wheel (with generator) to match, my old hand built wheelset will go into another folding project I am working on and might roll a modern double with a 39/53 to see how I like that.

This is a touring bike that thinks it's fast... and it is if you can spin efficiently at higher cadences.

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Old 11-30-13, 10:43 PM   #29
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Geez, you hit my situation almost dead on ! I was planning to use some Paul White shifter adapters that I bought some Dura Ace 105 bar end shifters for so I wouldn't have to deal with "click" shifting. Kinda "Old School" but effective. With regards to the front derailleur, what do you think of an XTR 960 front deraileur? and I might just go with the 50/34 compact gearing..

Where would I have to trim on Thors rear adapter if I wanted to use that cool KCNC 12-34 I have? If not, what size would I be able to use with his adapter comfortably?

Well, more later, got to start cooking my bird for the 30 people after thanks giving inlaw dinner tonight :=(
50/34 compact will serve you better than 53/39. Vuelta USA sells these type of cranks cheap and there is no point in spending oddles of money to save a few teeny grams or perhaps a hundred. I usually put the money towards my next travel adventure rather than on the toys!!

But if you must insist on having the weight weeny carbon bling bling, then there are plenty of options. My shifter is an Old Skool Falcon rachet thumb friction shifter reminiscent of the old Sturmey Archer commander shifter of the past if you know what I mean. For only $3 on sale last NOS brand new I think from Universal Cycles in Oregon, it provides a superb shifting platform for my front derailleur. If you use a friction shifter, you can use pretty much any front derailleur because you can trim manually shifting between the 2 chain rings.

The Thor adapter puts your front derailleur is such a position that you may get chain rub against the front derailleur cage at certain gear combinations. The advantage of the friction shifter is that, you can trim the cage not to rub against the chain if you cross chain to get a certain gear ratio. Otherwise with a click shifter, you may get chain rub due to its limited trimming or no trimming at all.

I have toured and ridden hub and spoke with it and boy my Mu SL flies baby! Light weight does carry certain benefits going up the hill!
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Old 11-30-13, 10:52 PM   #30
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Wouldn't I be better off just replacing the bottom bracket with something lighter and newer? Though that Storck-Power is sooooo cool its kinda old school? Yes, I am going to try to find a FSA or SRAM carbon unit..
You are not going to benefit a lot with weight cutting on the BB and cranks. Sure, stiff cranks and outboard BBs are going to make some difference with a strong rider, but there is not going to be any bang for the buck in regards to performance other than replacing with lighter weight wheels which you have and lighter weight tires. If you must absolute drop your Tern to an absolute minimum weight, then I suppose replace everything light, but all you are going to do is lighten your wallet for no apparent physical performance advantage other than some bragging rights that you have one of the lightest Tern folders out there.
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Old 11-30-13, 11:21 PM   #31
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Can anyone see why it might not be the best and brightest idea to use an expensive carbon crank on a bike that folds and might; get set down on the drive side, have things set on it or dropped on it, or get tipped over and smack up the crank arms ?
Meh, I don't worry about that stuff.... the likelihood of any of those things happening is so remote, I reckon the chances are about the same for my rigid bikes, but I don't let that stop me from dressing them up to party!

And dude, I love you, but that bike of yours would look much cooler with carbon cranks.
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Old 12-01-13, 12:49 AM   #32
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Meh, I don't worry about that stuff.... the likelihood of any of those things happening is so remote, I reckon the chances are about the same for my rigid bikes, but I don't let that stop me from dressing them up to party!

And dude, I love you, but that bike of yours would look much cooler with carbon cranks.
I am a big fan of those cold forged Deore cranks... I have never worried about stuff breaking and it is a touring bike so the old square taper crank is also something I favour in case I have to do some remote servicing replacement.

I have carbon cranks on my hardtail mountain bike... those are incredibly sweet and I know the designer who built these and the mission was to get a crank that was 25% lighter than cast aluminium, 25% stiffer, and the fatigue life is virtually infinite.

I have a second set of these but they are red and would clash.

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Old 12-01-13, 02:55 AM   #33
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I have had a carbon crank on my mezzo for 5 years. No problems here. Don't see why I am likely to have any, looks cool also.
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