Titanium Swift frame, anyone interested?
#202
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There are a few items everyone except Kraftwerk will have to buy:
Problem solver headset adjuster, and 28.6mm clamp, and a rubber O-ring. problemsolversbike.com/products/micro_adjustable_headset_spacer
The hheadset adjuster is a temporary measure to get the headset tension up correctly. I will post a procedure as well.
The O-ring is to provide some give between the headset and the stem riser clamps. I have found I could not make it stay put; the bending of the top section while riding, plus the huge lever force generated, would slide the clamps up the steerer and loosen the headset. Even grit for extra friction didn't help. So in the end I put an O-ring between the headset and the bottom clamp, and that has done the trick.
[edit] both the headset adjuster and extra clamp are only used to set up the headset and bottom Ti clamp. After tightening the bottom Ti clamp, the adjuster and extra clamp are removed for maximum esthetic appeal. If that doesn't bother you too much, the headset adjuster can be left in place. Mine is only a temporary tool.
Problem solver headset adjuster, and 28.6mm clamp, and a rubber O-ring. problemsolversbike.com/products/micro_adjustable_headset_spacer
The hheadset adjuster is a temporary measure to get the headset tension up correctly. I will post a procedure as well.
The O-ring is to provide some give between the headset and the stem riser clamps. I have found I could not make it stay put; the bending of the top section while riding, plus the huge lever force generated, would slide the clamps up the steerer and loosen the headset. Even grit for extra friction didn't help. So in the end I put an O-ring between the headset and the bottom clamp, and that has done the trick.
[edit] both the headset adjuster and extra clamp are only used to set up the headset and bottom Ti clamp. After tightening the bottom Ti clamp, the adjuster and extra clamp are removed for maximum esthetic appeal. If that doesn't bother you too much, the headset adjuster can be left in place. Mine is only a temporary tool.
Last edited by jur; 12-05-14 at 03:11 PM.
#203
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There are a few items everyone except Kraftwerk will have to buy:
Problem solver headset adjuster, and 28.6mm clamp, and a rubber O-ring. problemsolversbike.com/products/micro_adjustable_headset_spacer
The hheadset adjuster is a temporary measure to get the headset tension up correctly. I will post a procedure as well.
The O-ring is to provide some give between the headset and the stem riser clamps. I have found I could not make it stay put; the bending of the top section while riding, plus the huge lever force generated, would slide the clamps up the steerer and loosen the headset. Even grit for extra friction didn't help. So in the end I put an O-ring between the headset and the bottom clamp, and that has done the trick.
[edit] both the headset adjuster and extra clamp are only used to set up the headset and bottom Ti clamp. After tightening the bottom Ti clamp, the adjuster and extra clamp are removed for maximum esthetic appeal. If that doesn't bother you too much, the headset adjuster can be left in place. Mine is only a temporary tool.
Problem solver headset adjuster, and 28.6mm clamp, and a rubber O-ring. problemsolversbike.com/products/micro_adjustable_headset_spacer
The hheadset adjuster is a temporary measure to get the headset tension up correctly. I will post a procedure as well.
The O-ring is to provide some give between the headset and the stem riser clamps. I have found I could not make it stay put; the bending of the top section while riding, plus the huge lever force generated, would slide the clamps up the steerer and loosen the headset. Even grit for extra friction didn't help. So in the end I put an O-ring between the headset and the bottom clamp, and that has done the trick.
[edit] both the headset adjuster and extra clamp are only used to set up the headset and bottom Ti clamp. After tightening the bottom Ti clamp, the adjuster and extra clamp are removed for maximum esthetic appeal. If that doesn't bother you too much, the headset adjuster can be left in place. Mine is only a temporary tool.
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yes you are correct, jur. i guess we will have to follow your solution. thank you.
#209
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So is the bottom bracket 68mm English thread or something else? Who makes the brake levers you have on yours? Trying to figure out what all I need to make it a working bike. Debating on getting the Ti bullhorns vs getting off-the-shelf bullhorns with 31.8mm bars. Did you weigh the Ti bullhorns on your bike before you assembled it?
Very much looking forward to building this one up and riding it!
Very much looking forward to building this one up and riding it!
#210
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So is the bottom bracket 68mm English thread or something else? Who makes the brake levers you have on yours? Trying to figure out what all I need to make it a working bike. Debating on getting the Ti bullhorns vs getting off-the-shelf bullhorns with 31.8mm bars. Did you weigh the Ti bullhorns on your bike before you assembled it?
Very much looking forward to building this one up and riding it!
Very much looking forward to building this one up and riding it!
I have a fairly firm quote just haven't split it into the various parties' amounts. For now, we can work with a 20% deposit at $300. The actual balance will be sorted at pre-delivery payment. Once deposit has been made, they will submit drawings for final approval.
Any ideas on how to proceed with getting the deposit over to me? I intend to wire them the money if that is fee favourable. They don't like the idea of getting a separate deposit from everyone.
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BB shell is standard 68mm. The brakes are from jtech engineering. I am in Malaysia at the moment so weighing is 1.5 weeks away. If you get a 31.8mm clamp area bullhorn, let me know, as for now I have you listed for a 25.4mm clamp.
I have a fairly firm quote just haven't split it into the various parties' amounts. For now, we can work with a 20% deposit at $300. The actual balance will be sorted at pre-delivery payment. Once deposit has been made, they will submit drawings for final approval.
Any ideas on how to proceed with getting the deposit over to me? I intend to wire them the money if that is fee favourable. They don't like the idea of getting a separate deposit from everyone.
I have a fairly firm quote just haven't split it into the various parties' amounts. For now, we can work with a 20% deposit at $300. The actual balance will be sorted at pre-delivery payment. Once deposit has been made, they will submit drawings for final approval.
Any ideas on how to proceed with getting the deposit over to me? I intend to wire them the money if that is fee favourable. They don't like the idea of getting a separate deposit from everyone.
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Just had to say, w-o-w that frame is nice. Definitely looks like a totally different bike to my black aluminium Swift. Love the double top tube. I would almost be tempted, especially with a front disc brake mount.
#213
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Bike Friday has a number of different forks the one shown may have a slot in the treaded Steerer so the collar compresses it around the Easy Pack Stem mast.
pictured in 206
My Pocket Llama came with a Wedge-Quill fixed folding Stem-Mast, so It did not get the slot cut in the steerer tube, but still uses the CK grip nut headset.
Since I got my bike , the gang in Eugene has a Threadless fork & headset option . I hve not seen one in the flesh, But, problem solvers micro adjustable spacer
Problem Solvers , beneath their reinforcing clamp on piece
once its clamped around the steerer tube, like a stem, can be used to pre load the Headset adjustment that last little Bit.
so there are mechanical workarounds..
then the rest of the Mast can be clamped around an Alloy wedge quill Tube that goes Inside the steerer .. the rest of the Mast tube Can Be Titanium if you wish.
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-27-15 at 12:03 PM.
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I am getting a new frame as well, and my first one will be up for grabs, I am thinking $600 for the frame and rear triangle, at 50% what I paid. The other bits I need, and new bits can readily be bought from the manufacturer. Anybody keen? Drop me a PM.
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Sorry for hijacking this conversation, but I think it might be interesting for you to see that the original Swift Folder Swallow prototype from Peter Reich is on sale here:
Unique Swift Folder 'Swallow' Prototype Folding Bike Moulton Bike Friday | eBay
Unique Swift Folder 'Swallow' Prototype Folding Bike Moulton Bike Friday | eBay
#217
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As the likely delivery date gets closer I have been ordering parts and contemplating build options. For now I am planning on Avid BB7 road disc brakes, Tektro reverse brake levers, 2x10 gearing with Shimano 105 cranks, Ultegra front derailleur, XT rear derailleur, MicroShift Flat bar shifters, Shimano XT hubs, Sun Rhyno Lite 406 rims with Schwalbe Marathon tires (1.5" front, 1.75" rear), the Ti bullhorn bars like Jur used, Shimano PD-A530 pedals. Mix of black and silver anodized parts. I built my front wheel last weekend, and plan on building the rear wheel this weekend.
So what are other folks in this group buy building up?
So what are other folks in this group buy building up?
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mine will have the following components: campagnolo veloce 10 speed group set (black), 451 newson sportec or wheelsport wheels (black), schwalbe durano, brooks black swallow saddle (titanium rails if i can find one that is reasonable priced), mks pedals, black brooks or cinelli bar tape.
it will be titanium and black.
it will be titanium and black.
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haven't decided yet, did a 30+ and 20 miler on my xootr this weekend in florida, a great bike for travel..want a bit more speed so I think a 1 x 9 gearing with great wheels will do the trick..r
#222
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That would be mine.
The drive-side seatstay is separable between the brake bridge and the dropout.
Not a fail.
Not exactly exactly sure of the components yet ...
The drive-side seatstay is separable between the brake bridge and the dropout.
Not a fail.
Not exactly exactly sure of the components yet ...
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Looks like this train left the station, and I missed it. But I'm interested. I only saw this thread yesterday.
1. Can someone post a picture of their bike or frame in the folded position?
2. Do any of the buyers on this deal live in New York City? I'd be interested in taking a closer look at your bike/frame.
3. What is the contact info for the manufacturer?
1. Can someone post a picture of their bike or frame in the folded position?
2. Do any of the buyers on this deal live in New York City? I'd be interested in taking a closer look at your bike/frame.
3. What is the contact info for the manufacturer?
Last edited by Richbiker; 03-17-15 at 01:41 PM. Reason: Error in original posting.
#224
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I'm curious too... Is there any inclination for another batch or two to be produced?
Looks like this train left the station, and I missed it. But I'm interested. I only saw this thread yesterday. Amazing that the thread seems to have started in 2005, and 10 years later 5 frames got ordered & shipped. That's pretty cool.
1. Can someone post a picture of their bike or frame in the folded position?
2. Do any of the buyers on this deal live in New York City? I'd be interested in taking a closer look at your bike/frame.
3. What is the contact info for the manufacturer?
1. Can someone post a picture of their bike or frame in the folded position?
2. Do any of the buyers on this deal live in New York City? I'd be interested in taking a closer look at your bike/frame.
3. What is the contact info for the manufacturer?
#225
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I can arrange another batch no problem. I also have interest from one more party.
Heh the thread started beginning of last year. That batch is the 1st lot after the prototype.
I'll post all the various parts pics so you can see all the options. Will do it from my pc in a few hours, bit clumsy on my tablet.
Heh the thread started beginning of last year. That batch is the 1st lot after the prototype.
I'll post all the various parts pics so you can see all the options. Will do it from my pc in a few hours, bit clumsy on my tablet.
Last edited by jur; 03-17-15 at 01:47 PM.