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Switched to Paraffin Wax and...

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Old 11-28-14, 12:39 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Hinge
I tried the water separation trick to clean the wax. In short, it sort of worked. I melted the wax and then added an equal, or close to equal, part of hot water. The water and the wax separated instantly. The problem is that most of the crud is an oil based mix of lube, dirt, metal, splagma etc. which also wants to sit on top of the water. After leaving it in the pot for a while, the water started to boil so I turned it off and let everything cool down. Hours later, when it was cool, I was able to easily remove the entire block of wax by going around the pot with a long razor blade. Then I just turned the block over and shaved off a very thin layer of wax which contained all the crud using the same blade. So, in the end I wound up with clean wax and it really wasn't very difficult. For $3 is it worth it? Maybe not, but if you're in a pinch and don't have extra wax, this will work.


Here is the crud at the bottom of the melted wax


This is what it looked like after adding water


This is the cool wax with all the dirt on the bottom


This is the tiny amount of crud that stayed in the water


These are the wax/crud shavings


Here is the clean wax ready to be melted again

So far I'm at 80 miles on the wax and it is holding up just fine and the drivetrain is immaculate. If I get to 300 before it starts asking for attention, I'll be happy.

Also, for those of you who are interested in trying this, I saw an awful lot of very cheap slow cookers in the Black Friday flyers today. They ranged anywhere from $7.99 to $14.99. What better thing to do with your long weekend?
Glad it sorta worked.
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Old 11-28-14, 12:20 PM
  #27  
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I suppose if you started with a completely clean dry chain, there wouldn't be any oil-based crud, just crud. So that should work better. The crud and water would mix and sink.
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Old 11-28-14, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jur
I suppose if you started with a completely clean dry chain, there wouldn't be any oil-based crud, just crud. So that should work better. The crud and water would mix and sink.
Absolutely. As others have also said, the key is to start with a super clean or new chain.

Xray, my post was by no means a slam on you or your suggestion. I just wanted to try it out and post my findings. I still wound up with clean wax.
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Old 11-28-14, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hinge
Absolutely. As others have also said, the key is to start with a super clean or new chain.

Xray, my post was by no means a slam on you or your suggestion. I just wanted to try it out and post my findings. I still wound up with clean wax.
It's all good man, I'm feeling my way through this also.
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Old 12-10-14, 11:04 PM
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Got a flat today so I took this opportunity to clean my cassette.

Didn't take very long, just used an old bath cloth to wipe it close to clean without using degreaser .


Last edited by xraytech; 12-10-14 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 12-10-14, 11:56 PM
  #31  
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Nice!
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Old 12-16-14, 02:40 AM
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Xray, that looks great. What's the low-down on that wheel & cassette?

I'm at mile 200 on my first wax job and it is going great. Super smooth and super clean. No signs whatsoever of it wearing out. Parents are now on board and and they're loving it too!

FYI I discovered another way to clean the wax. After the wax was melted, I ran a high-powered magnet (from a hard drive) through it and it picked up about 90% of the junk that was in there.
I have a feeling I may find some PTFE and MOS2 powder in my stocking next week...

Last edited by Hinge; 12-17-14 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 12-19-14, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Hinge
Xray, that looks great. What's the low-down on that wheel & cassette?

I'm at mile 200 on my first wax job and it is going great. Super smooth and super clean. No signs whatsoever of it wearing out. Parents are now on board and and they're loving it too!

FYI I discovered another way to clean the wax. After the wax was melted, I ran a high-powered magnet (from a hard drive) through it and it picked up about 90% of the junk that was in there.
I have a feeling I may find some PTFE and MOS2 powder in my stocking next week...
BRILLIANT on the Magnet thing.
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Old 12-28-14, 04:39 PM
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Time to clean the wax.



I'm going to try Hinge's suggestion, a magnet to gather up the metal grit.
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Old 12-28-14, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Hinge
Xray, that looks great. What's the low-down on that wheel & cassette?
The Cassette is a SRAM Red OpenGlide 11-28
https://www.sram.com/sram/road/produ...-1090-cassette

The Wheelset is a pair of K-Pros. Well that's the name on the Rims anyways.
Tailor Made 20" 406 451 Front Rear Wheelset Litepro Star Hubs 14 16 Spoke | eBay

Last edited by xraytech; 12-28-14 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 12-28-14, 10:16 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by xraytech
Time to clean the wax.



I'm going to try Hinge's suggestion, a magnet to gather up the metal grit.
How many wax cycles have you done now?

What is your modus operandi? Clean the chain or dunk it straight into the wax?
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Old 12-28-14, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jur
How many wax cycles have you done now?

What is your modus operandi? Clean the chain or dunk it straight into the wax?
Really wet weather lately and wax barely holds up in rain, that's what I've heard anyways. So on days I rode through rain, I made it a point to re-wax as soon as possible. So I count 3 or 4 cycles? In dry weather I'd probably be on my second cycle.

I wipe my chain with an old dry bath towel and dunk. I also wipe down the rest of my drive train.

Last edited by xraytech; 12-28-14 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 12-28-14, 10:39 PM
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So I tried the Magnet and...

So I tried the Magnet Trick and it sort a worked. Either the magnet I used wasn't strong enough or what's left at the bottom of the pot is just road grime.

On my next re-wax cycle I'll try the magnet again and try the water separation trick.
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Old 12-29-14, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by xraytech
The Cassette is a SRAM Red OpenGlide 11-28
https://www.sram.com/sram/road/produ...-1090-cassette

The Wheelset is a pair of K-Pros. Well that's the name on the Rims anyways.
Tailor Made 20" 406 451 Front Rear Wheelset Litepro Star Hubs 14 16 Spoke | eBay
That is some serious hardware!! Nice! Any pics of your complete bike?

Originally Posted by xraytech
So I tried the Magnet Trick and it sort a worked. Either the magnet I used wasn't strong enough or what's left at the bottom of the pot is just road grime.
I used a magnet like this, but without the backing plate:



These things are ridiculously strong. Actually, I was surprised that it worked because the crud in my crock pot looked just like the stuff in your picture above and it appeared to be non metallic/magnetic. If you can get a stronger magnet, give it a try.
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Old 12-29-14, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Hinge
That is some serious hardware!! Nice! Any pics of your complete bike?



I used a magnet like this, but without the backing plate:



These things are ridiculously strong. Actually, I was surprised that it worked because the crud in my crock pot looked just like the stuff in your picture above and it appeared to be non metallic/magnetic. If you can get a stronger magnet, give it a try.
Here's a most recent pic...

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Old 12-30-14, 10:45 PM
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Oh yeah! I forgot that was your bike. I was following your pursuit of a new fork a while back.

Great bike. I really like those wheels!
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Old 01-20-15, 10:58 PM
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Quick wax update.

I'm at 350 miles on the original wax and it is still going strong.

My 76 year old father just hit 500 miles on his. He decided to re-wax "just because" but he didn't really need to. It wasn't showing any signs of decreased performance.
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Old 01-21-15, 04:58 AM
  #43  
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:

I waxed my Brompton chain plus 2 new ones. A new one is on now, and the 2 others are ready to go. Itching to wax my Ti Swift chain also. No time...

Last edited by jur; 01-21-15 at 05:03 AM.
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Old 01-21-15, 09:10 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by xraytech
To facilitate the waxing processes I run two NEW or VERY CLEAN chains.

I cook two chains in the wax for about 30mins. Turn off the pot, fish out one chain, leave the other in the wax to cool down and solidify and stow away the pot.

I leave the second chain in the solid wax for the next time I have to re-wax, from what I read is about 200-300 miles. So the next time I re-wax, I simply turn on the pot, melt the wax, fish the chain out, put the other chain in, turn off the pot. Lather, Rince, Repeat. Depending on how fast your pot heats up, waxing really should take no longer than 30 mins.

And yes I don't clean the chain prior to re-waxing. As long as you start off with a CLEAN chain on the initial waxing, the whole process is self cleaning. But you do eventually will have to replace the wax in the pot but I have not gone through enough re-waxing cycles to know when to do so.
Great post. I ride my fattie in a lot of sand and will likely switch to a waxed chain for the same reason local contractors run crawler tracks slightly dry...less sand hangs up on pins, rollers, bushings, gear teeth, thus less wear.
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Old 01-25-15, 11:46 AM
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Dear xraytech:
Very interesting. This is a problem with my folder because the wheels are so small that the chain is close to the ground. It is such a shame that the article was so poorly written, without your glowing reports I would not consider doing this.
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Old 01-26-15, 11:02 AM
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I have been using wax occasionally augmented with White Lightning for four or five years now. When I used just wax the wax would flake off, but when a small quantity of heavy grease such as lithium water resistant auto grease at 4-5 bucks a can, the mixture stays on and lubes better but doesn't pick up a lot of dirt. The dirt it does pick up is on the outside of the chain so it is not significant. i had some graphite lube and some moly lube lying around so I tossed that in there two. I believe that as dirt accumulates in the wax it settles to the bottom although the graphite moly does give the mixture an iridescent sheen of sorts. I have a little crockpot made for queso dip about 3-4 inches in diameter that will hold a couple of chains. I like to leave it on with the chains for 4-5 hours to insure the waxy mixture gets inside the rollers, although that may be overkill. However, when I ride through a lot of slop from rain or slush it does remove some wax, hence the white lightning will tide me over until I feel like doing this again. I like to wax new chains without removing any of the packing grease, just drop them on in. the wax seems to displace the grease just fine and definitely creates a waxy shield to protect the innards. Nothing scientific but my chains seem to last a long time and my chainwheels wear very little. There is a blog called Eco Velo that discusses the process, and I believe he mentions Grant Petersen of Rivendell bicycles advocates a mix of 80%wax and 20% beeswax. He mentions oil with Teflon (Slick 50). In the bad old days an oily chain could really gunk up a pant leg and it never came out and your hands were filthy. This is better.
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Old 01-26-15, 02:52 PM
  #47  
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Thanks for that 12boy. I have tried waxing the chain since reading this thread but the results have not been great. When freshly applied its great and feels efficient but I dont think its suited to cold, damp UK winters, the wax soon wears or flakes off. However I might now try mixing wax and lithium grease as I have a few tub of it in the garage.
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Old 01-26-15, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 12boy
There is a blog called Eco Velo
Ever notice how clean his bikes are? Doubt he's ever ridden in snow/salt. Used to read that blog,but got tired of him editing any comments that didn't agree with him.
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Old 01-26-15, 05:35 PM
  #49  
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@cpg: When you observe that it has worn off, is that just the outside or the inside as well? I suppose you can tell it's gone on the inside when it starts making noise?
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Old 01-26-15, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dynaryder
Ever notice how clean his bikes are? Doubt he's ever ridden in snow/salt. Used to read that blog,but got tired of him editing any comments that didn't agree with him.
he probably couldn't handle your critiques of his cable routing..

does seems unusually clean given this quote from the website. there isn't even a speck of dust:



"The above photo shows the untouched/unwashed drivetrain of my primary commuter after approximately 450-500 miles. I live in one of California’s central valleys, so our winter conditions are nothing like they are up north or back east—in other words, our winter conditions are not much different than our summer conditions in terms of road grime—but still, you have to admit that’s an unusually sparkly drivetrain for nearly 500 road miles and zero maintenance."
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