Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 33
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Switched to Paraffin Wax and...

    ... I have to say that I am very happy with the results.








    And according to this article, Paraffin Wax out performs 29 other commercial chain lubes.


    Last edited by xraytech; 11-21-14 at 01:25 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member ziqpy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    England
    Posts
    86
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    been around with motorcycles for decades, but we are lazy and don't do it

  3. #3
    Senior Member Still Pedaling's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Arizona
    My Bikes
    Brompton and Dahon Curve D3
    Posts
    747
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ziqpy View Post
    been around with motorcycles for decades, but we are lazy and don't do it
    Great idea for sure, but a lot of work, especially when one can use a chain cleaning kit such as this; Amazon.com : Finish Line Shop Quality Bicycle Chain Cleaner : Bike Cleaning Tools : Sports & Outdoors . I use it and it works great.
    "It's best to remain silent and be thought the fool, then to open your mouth and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain

  4. #4
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    3,394
    Mentioned
    50 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Paraffin? my Mom (1922-1999) used it to seal home made Jam jars.

  5. #5
    PatronSaintOfDiscBrakes dynaryder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    dropped and lost in Washington DC
    Posts
    6,248
    Mentioned
    12 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Location?

    Great for Cali,prolly not so great for DC/NYC winters. I use White Lightning for my 'nice' bikes,but regular lube for my winter ride.

    C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport/Qualifier,Dahon Speed Pro TT,Brompton S6L

  6. #6
    jur
    jur is offline
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,295
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Sheldon Brown made the point that wax doesn't stick and flow like oil or grease does... Once it gets squeezed out, it's out.

    [edit] I see the test jig does not have a derailer, representing racing bikes. Pity, I am of the opinion that's where the majority of the losses are, when the chain goes through the double bending routine.

    The test jig also does not represent imperfect chainline either. I didn't read the article completely, but what I did, did not seem to indicate these effects are taken into account. Hardly real world tests, then. Still very interesting, thanks for the info. Going to read the rest now.
    Last edited by jur; 11-22-14 at 03:49 AM.
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

  7. #7
    Senior Member streetstomper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    164
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Kind of hard to take an "authoritative" article seriously when they misspell paraffin repeatedly. Also hard to take the lab results at face value when they come from a "lab" that wants to sell you waxed chains.

  8. #8
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    3,394
    Mentioned
    50 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Paraffin in UK, liquid, the US calls Kerosene ...

  9. #9
    cpg
    cpg is offline
    Senior Member cpg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Nottingham
    My Bikes
    Mezzo I4, Whyte PRST-1, Trek 1200, Dahon Jack, Bickerton
    Posts
    333
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I am intrigued by this and think the only way to form a genuine opinion is to try it. My hack road bike needed some attention today so I decided to give the waxed chain a try. Thoroughly cleaned the chain in a solvent bath followed by several runs in an ultrasonic cleaner, dried and then heated in a bath of melted wax. Now just looking forward to seeing how well it does or doesn't work. An idea for easy re-application might be to mix melted wax with some liquid paraffin or white spirits to form a paste that could be applied with a brush and then heated with a hair drier or hot air *** to melt it into the links.
    Mezzo I4 (converted to dual drive), Whyte PRST-1, Trek 1200, Dahon Jack, Bickerton Portable (upgraded).

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    My Bikes
    Brompton, Dahon Vitesse D5
    Posts
    1,834
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I tried it before. Didn't find it effective... I've stuck with Chain-L or whatever it's called... thick oil that stays put.

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    33
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Me Too!

    Count me in. I had heard of this before but never really took it seriously. Then I read the article you posted and a bunch of others and decided to give it a try.

    I bought a used Crock Pot on craigslist for $10 and a pound of paraffin wax for $3 from Walmart. I thoroughly cleaned the chainrings, cassette, derailleurs and the chain (I thought). The chain is a KMC X10SL with the Ti coating and I didn't want to give it the regular mineral spirits treatment that I would give my lesser chains. I'm still undecided on whether or not Mineral Spirits really are overly harsh on a chain. I haven't found a definitve answer yet. So instead, I soaked it in Simple Green and brushed it vigorously, rinsed it and repeated until it looked new, then I blew it dry with the compressor. When I put the chain in the wax it bubbled quite a bit and a LOT of black nastiness literally blew out of the chain. It was surprising to see how much crud was still in there.

    I left the chain in the wax for about 30 minutes. After wiping off the excess wax and letting it cool, I put it on the bike and I took it on a short 13 mile test run.

    Riding the bike, it felt very smooth and it was surprisingly quiet. Shifting was great. It felt like I was working less but that may have been my imagination. After the ride, there was a fair amount of black wax flakes that had accumulated on the cogs, chainrings, jockey wheels and the chain itself. What this means is that even after cleaning and the wax treatment there was still a considerable amount of crap in the chain. The black stuff was obviously crud-infused wax that had worked it's way out while riding. The good thing is that it easily brushes/wipes off. It will be interesting to see if this continues to happen on subsequent rides.

    The real test will be to see how long it lasts. If it does last a while, I think I will definitely continue to use this method especially now that I have a dedicated "waxing station" in the garage. I would gladly put up with the occasional waxing process if it means that I no longer have to deal with the crap that normally accumulates on the drivetrain and the frequent cleaning that goes with it. Also, I think it would be ideal to start with a new chain or do a much more thorough job of degreasing beforehand. Maybe I should have used mineral spirits after all.
    Last edited by Hinge; 11-24-14 at 06:17 PM.

  12. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Hinge View Post
    Count me in. I had heard of this before but never really took it seriously. Then I read the article you posted and a bunch of others and decided to give it a try.

    I bought a used Crock Pot on craigslist for $10 and a pound of paraffin wax for $3 from Walmart. I thoroughly cleaned the chainrings, cassette, derailleurs and the chain (I thought). The chain is a KMC X10SL with the Ti coating and I didn't want to give it the regular mineral spirits treatment that I would give my lesser chains. I'm still undecided on whether or not Mineral Spirits really are overly harsh on a chain. I haven't found a definitve answer yet. So instead, I soaked it in Simple Green and brushed it vigorously, rinsed it and repeated until it looked new, then I blew it dry with the compressor. When I put the chain in the wax it bubbled quite a bit and a LOT of black nastiness literally blew out of the chain. It was surprising to see how much crud was still in there.

    I left the chain in the wax for about 30 minutes. After wiping off the excess wax and letting it cool, I put it on the bike and I took it on a short 13 mile test run.

    Riding the bike, it felt very smooth and it was surprisingly quiet. Shifting was great. It felt like I was working less but that may have been my imagination. After the ride, there was a fair amount of black wax flakes that had accumulated on the cogs, chainrings, jockey wheels and the chain itself. What this means is that even after cleaning and the wax treatment there was still a considerable amount of crap in the chain. The black stuff was obviously crud-infused wax that had worked it's way out while riding. The good thing is that it easily brushes/wipes off. It will be interesting to see if this continues to happen on subsequent rides.

    The real test will be to see how long it lasts. If it does last a while, I think I will definitely continue to use this method especially now that I have a dedicated "waxing station" in the garage. I would gladly put up with the occasional waxing process if it means that I no longer have to deal with the crap that normally accumulates on the drivetrain and the frequent cleaning that goes with it. Also, I think it would be ideal to start with a new chain or do a much more thorough job of degreasing beforehand. Maybe I should have used mineral spirits after all.
    To facilitate the waxing processes I run two NEW or VERY CLEAN chains.

    I cook two chains in the wax for about 30mins. Turn off the pot, fish out one chain, leave the other in the wax to cool down and solidify and stow away the pot.

    I leave the second chain in the solid wax for the next time I have to re-wax, from what I read is about 200-300 miles. So the next time I re-wax, I simply turn on the pot, melt the wax, fish the chain out, put the other chain in, turn off the pot. Lather, Rince, Repeat. Depending on how fast your pot heats up, waxing really should take no longer than 30 mins.

    And yes I don't clean the chain prior to re-waxing. As long as you start off with a CLEAN chain on the initial waxing, the whole process is self cleaning. But you do eventually will have to replace the wax in the pot but I have not gone through enough re-waxing cycles to know when to do so.

  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    33
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    -Xraytech,

    I like the dual chain rotation idea.

    I really wish I cleaned my chain better beforehand. I may try one more chain with the existing wax but probably not. There is quite a bit of evil in there now. I thought about running the liquid wax through a paper coffee filter just to see if that would work. Could be worth a try.

    Can you clarify what you meant by, "lather"?

    It sounds like you've been doing this a while. Does your drivetrain remain pretty clean?

    I just stumbled upon this site: http://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/about-us which has a lot of good info. It might be fun to add some PTFE and/or molybdenum to the mix. They advocate using mineral spirits for cleaning.
    Last edited by Hinge; 11-24-14 at 07:24 PM.

  14. #14
    jur
    jur is offline
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,295
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Am following this with interest. Please keep reporting back.
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

  15. #15
    cpg
    cpg is offline
    Senior Member cpg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Nottingham
    My Bikes
    Mezzo I4, Whyte PRST-1, Trek 1200, Dahon Jack, Bickerton
    Posts
    333
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hinge. I had a similar amount of crud come out of my chain. I gave it a good clean in the parts washed filled with liquid paraffin, then wiped it off and put it in the ultrasonic clearer with detergent. It was amazing to see how much muck came out in the ultrasonic cleaner so I changed the detergent water several times until it came out fairly clean. When I waxed the chain a small amount of dirt still leached into the molten wax but not enough to be a concern. The ultrasonic cleaner is just one of those cheap ones found in high street stores.
    I did my first ride on Sunday, it had been raining in the night and the first part of the morning. The bike felt easier to pedal, probably the same feeling I get after I have cleaned the chain normally. Gear changes are good and smooth. The bike got damp because of the weather but the chain looked great, rode it again on Monday, still a bit damp and cold, no sign of rust on the chain and it still looks clean. The bike frame is also quite clean, after riding in wet conditions it usually gets sprayed with a mixture of road dirt and water oil mix expelled from the rotating chain.
    Mezzo I4 (converted to dual drive), Whyte PRST-1, Trek 1200, Dahon Jack, Bickerton Portable (upgraded).

  16. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    How to reuse wax.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hinge View Post
    -Xraytech,

    I like the dual chain rotation idea.

    I really wish I cleaned my chain better beforehand. I may try one more chain with the existing wax but probably not. There is quite a bit of evil in there now. I thought about running the liquid wax through a paper coffee filter just to see if that would work. Could be worth a try.

    Can you clarify what you meant by, "lather"?

    It sounds like you've been doing this a while. Does your drivetrain remain pretty clean?

    I just stumbled upon this site: Molten Speed Wax - About Us which has a lot of good info. It might be fun to add some PTFE and/or molybdenum to the mix. They advocate using mineral spirits for cleaning.
    Just so everyone knows I'm fairly new at this... just want to put that out there.

    So, back to the issue of dirty wax. I've read you can clean the wax buy simply melting it and adding an equal amount of water to the pot. Let the Wax/Water mixture cool down and solidify. As the Wax/Water mix cools, clean wax will rise to the top and the gunk will drop to the bottom. When the wax has completely solidified, just pull the floating layer of wax off the top of the water. Clean Wax...

  17. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    33
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by cpg View Post
    Hinge. I had a similar amount of crud come out of my chain. I gave it a good clean in the parts washed filled with liquid paraffin, then wiped it off and put it in the ultrasonic clearer with detergent. It was amazing to see how much muck came out in the ultrasonic cleaner so I changed the detergent water several times until it came out fairly clean. When I waxed the chain a small amount of dirt still leached into the molten wax but not enough to be a concern. The ultrasonic cleaner is just one of those cheap ones found in high street stores.
    I did my first ride on Sunday, it had been raining in the night and the first part of the morning. The bike felt easier to pedal, probably the same feeling I get after I have cleaned the chain normally. Gear changes are good and smooth. The bike got damp because of the weather but the chain looked great, rode it again on Monday, still a bit damp and cold, no sign of rust on the chain and it still looks clean. The bike frame is also quite clean, after riding in wet conditions it usually gets sprayed with a mixture of road dirt and water oil mix expelled from the rotating chain.
    CPG, thanks for the input. I'm not entirely clear on the procedure you followed. It almost sounds like you waxed it and then put it in the ultrasonic cleaner then waxed it again. Can you clarify?

    One thing is certain, I definitely need to get an ultrasonic cleaner!

    I did a second ride today. 25 miles. The chain still felt great. At the end of the ride there was a bit more black wax on the pulleys but not as much as the previous ride. Everything else still looks great. So far, I'm REALLY liking this!

    Quote Originally Posted by xraytech View Post
    Just so everyone knows I'm fairly new at this... just want to put that out there.

    So, back to the issue of dirty wax. I've read you can clean the wax buy simply melting it and adding an equal amount of water to the pot. Let the Wax/Water mixture cool down and solidify. As the Wax/Water mix cools, clean wax will rise to the top and the gunk will drop to the bottom. When the wax has completely solidified, just pull the floating layer of wax off the top of the water. Clean Wax...
    Holy Carp! Does this actually work? That is brilliant! The crock pot is heating up now as I type! I'll report back with my findings!

  18. #18
    cpg
    cpg is offline
    Senior Member cpg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Nottingham
    My Bikes
    Mezzo I4, Whyte PRST-1, Trek 1200, Dahon Jack, Bickerton
    Posts
    333
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have solvent based parts washer and the particular solvent I use is liquid paraffin. That's probably why description is a bit confusing so to clarify the order was :
    1 - Soak and clean the chain in the parts washer.
    2 - Dry the chain with a rag to remove excess liquid paraffin.
    3 - Clean the chain again this time using water with detergent in the ultrasonic cleaner, chaining the cleaning solution several times until it runs clear.
    4 - Rinse the chain and dry with a rag followed by heating with a hot air *** to remove any remaining moisture.
    5 - Soak chain in hot paraffin wax.
    Mezzo I4 (converted to dual drive), Whyte PRST-1, Trek 1200, Dahon Jack, Bickerton Portable (upgraded).

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    385
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Those who sense that using paraffin can make you ride faster are not imagining it.

    For best results, after removing the chain from the crock pot to cool, rub the hot molten paraffin over your legs - arms too if you really want to go for it. This is a very effective way to remove the hair from your legs and arms to improve aerodynamics.

  20. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    My Bikes
    2010 Surly LHT, 1999 Rocky Mountain Turbo
    Posts
    1,168
    Mentioned
    24 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Where are you guys?

    I am thinking of washing my chain or in the wet left coast. But I am not wholly gimmicked it is the best fit we climes.

  21. #21
    Senior Member mapeiboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Toronto , Ontario , Canada
    My Bikes
    Colnago EP with Campy chorus
    Posts
    232
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by chagzuki View Post
    I tried it before. Didn't find it effective... I've stuck with Chain-L or whatever it's called... thick oil that stays put.
    Same here . I have been using Chain-L for years and is very happy with the result .

  22. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Claims of riding faster are just that... claims.

    I switched to Paraffin for it's cleanliness and hey it saves a few Watts, small bonus.

  23. #23
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Hinge View Post
    CPG, thanks for the input. I'm not entirely clear on the procedure you followed. It almost sounds like you waxed it and then put it in the ultrasonic cleaner then waxed it again. Can you clarify?

    One thing is certain, I definitely need to get an ultrasonic cleaner!

    I did a second ride today. 25 miles. The chain still felt great. At the end of the ride there was a bit more black wax on the pulleys but not as much as the previous ride. Everything else still looks great. So far, I'm REALLY liking this!



    Holy Carp! Does this actually work? That is brilliant! The crock pot is heating up now as I type! I'll report back with my findings!
    That's what I read. My wax hasn't gotten that far mainly because I started off a stripped chain but slowly the wax will get dirty.

  24. #24
    jur
    jur is offline
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,295
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by xraytech View Post
    I switched to Paraffin for it's cleanliness ...
    That is the aspect that attracts me too. I haven't tried any waxes yet. I am on a variant of Chain-L and cleaning using a compressor. I did this for simplicity, but even that could be improved on. So if the wax treatment lasts say 2 weeks (400km say) then I would be tempted. But I am awaiting the results from dunking a waxed but used-up chain in there - ie will the chain need cleaning again? If so, the the wax routine becomes way less attractive, hopeless in fact. The way I see it, hopefully the black ground-up steel powder (which is what turns any chain lube black) would be caught in the wax instead and be worked out without sticking to the outside of the chain, as oil does. So you end up with a reasonably clean chain at the end, is what I'm hoping for. In such a case, you can just dunk the used chain in the wax again with no cleaning.
    My folding bike photo essays www.dekter.net/

  25. #25
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    33
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I tried the water separation trick to clean the wax. In short, it sort of worked. I melted the wax and then added an equal, or close to equal, part of hot water. The water and the wax separated instantly. The problem is that most of the crud is an oil based mix of lube, dirt, metal, splagma etc. which also wants to sit on top of the water. After leaving it in the pot for a while, the water started to boil so I turned it off and let everything cool down. Hours later, when it was cool, I was able to easily remove the entire block of wax by going around the pot with a long razor blade. Then I just turned the block over and shaved off a very thin layer of wax which contained all the crud using the same blade. So, in the end I wound up with clean wax and it really wasn't very difficult. Would it be just as easy to replace the wax? Probably. But, it was a fun experiment and if you're in a pinch and don't have extra wax, this will work.

    WaxDirt.jpg
    Here is the crud at the bottom of the melted wax

    AddWater.jpg
    This is what it looked like after adding water

    CoolDirtyWax.jpg
    This is the cool wax with all the dirt on the bottom

    DirtyWater.jpg
    This is the tiny amount of crud that stayed in the water

    ShaveWax.jpg
    These are the wax/crud shavings

    CleanWax.jpg
    Here is the clean wax ready to be melted again

    So far I'm at 80 miles on the wax and it is holding up just fine and the drivetrain is immaculate. If I get to 300 before it starts asking for attention, I'll be happy.

    Also, for those of you who are interested in trying this, I saw an awful lot of very cheap slow cookers in the Black Friday flyers today. They ranged anywhere from $7.99 to $14.99. What better thing to do with your long weekend?
    Last edited by Hinge; 11-28-14 at 03:26 PM.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •