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  1. #1
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Has anybody here happened to use a tapping attachment?

    I have a 24x40" aluminum plate which is going to become a router table.
    There will be a 2" grid of 1/4-28 holes. Thats a LOT of drilling and tapping!!

    Luckily, i can use hte CNC at school to drill all of the holes no problem, but the tapping is not so easy. I really dont want to tap these things by hand!!! BUT, we found a tapping attachment in the closet there, and we have the bridgeport to use it with. So i was wondering, does anybody here know how to use a tapping attachment?

    There have been reports of people actually using a chuck on the spindle to grab taps, and use hte quil to feed a tap into a hole. If the tapping attachment does not work, i will give that a shot
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  2. #2
    No Rocket Surgeon eubi's Avatar
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    I'll explain what I think it is.

    When you are tapping the hole, the tap will "right hand" drive into the metal, tapping the threads.

    As soon as you back off on the feed, it will reverse direction and the tap will back out.

    I have a call in to the machine shop supervisor for the exact name of this device. I'll post when he gets back to me.

  3. #3
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Its a tapmatic, or at least that is what we have.
    Well it turns out, we have the wrong size collet for the tap i need. SO we tried a bit more risky route

    Use a regular r8 1/4" collet, and hold the tap. Just start the tap with the quill, and the tap will feed itself right through. Then reverse direction, and the tap will exit by itself. It works great with speeds around 100RPM
    C://dos
    C://dos.run
    run.dos.run

  4. #4
    No Rocket Surgeon eubi's Avatar
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    Yep, it's Tapmatic:

    http://www.tapmatic.com/

    Practice on scrap first to get used to it. Good Luck.

  5. #5
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Tapping directly from the spindle worked wonders. Once you get it started, it pulls through almost effortlessly. I did 6 or 7 holes this way. Then when the tap is all the way through, reverse motor. This is how i will do it......240 times
    C://dos
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    run.dos.run

  6. #6
    Resident Old Fart Olebiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantomcow2
    Tapping directly from the spindle worked wonders. Once you get it started, it pulls through almost effortlessly. I did 6 or 7 holes this way. Then when the tap is all the way through, reverse motor. This is how i will do it......240 times
    What kind of router table are you building?
    Wag more, bark less

  7. #7
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olebiker
    What kind of router table are you building?
    its a CNC router table. Except i wont be using an actual router like Porter Cable or Hitachi, but a rotozip. Some people use routers, but im not prepared to spend 150 dollars on a nice router, and I just dont need for what i want to do.

    So i got a 24x40" plate of aluminum for the table. Drilling 1/4-20 holes in 2" grid for a clamping method.

    The ultimate project
    C://dos
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  8. #8
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Basically this:


    Except mine will be nicer
    C://dos
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    run.dos.run

  9. #9
    My Alphabit's say "Oooo" InfamousG's Avatar
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    Forgive my ignorance...

    If I'm seeing this right, your CNC router table will basically be the reverse of a standard router table? Rather than moving the piece over the tool mounted to the table (tool facing up), you're going to be moving the router to the piece?

    I just don't see how that would work smoothly with a router... interesting though.

    (I'm a CNC Lathe Operator, so I get the concept, just don't get how you'd lock in the part you plan to cut)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfamousG
    Forgive my ignorance...

    If I'm seeing this right, your CNC router table will basically be the reverse of a standard router table? Rather than moving the piece over the tool mounted to the table (tool facing up), you're going to be moving the router to the piece?

    I just don't see how that would work smoothly with a router... interesting though.

    (I'm a CNC Lathe Operator, so I get the concept, just don't get how you'd lock in the part you plan to cut)

    cnc router tables are commonly used in many industries, the one I was familiar with was in a door plant. It could do two 3' x 8' doors at a time.

  11. #11
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Actually most CNC routers have the gantry move and table stationary. Look on the net.
    CNCzone.com has a huge amount of materials on routers. Routers typically have the gantry moving.
    Milling machines have the table move, and spindle stationary.
    heres what my school has, except 48x48"
    Well i cant say has, its coming in Feb.
    http://www.techno-isel.com/CNC_Route...NC_Routers.htm

    You will see th e gantry movings by itself. THe system works remarkably well, rocking is whatnot is a problem with the hobbyist BUT if you do it right or have the money for THK or linear bearings, you have no problem. I dont have that money, but i am confident that Skate bearings will work very well
    C://dos
    C://dos.run
    run.dos.run

  12. #12
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Oh, to lock the part in. You have the table, and the table is where you clamp stuff. Some tables have T slots milled right in.
    Mine is going to have a series of drilled and tapped holes, because i dont have the roomf or T slots. Then just use a clamping kit.

    Or, a vacuum table. But this cost the school 3500 dollars, and thats a technical education level machine...I think i will stick with a clamping kit
    C://dos
    C://dos.run
    run.dos.run

  13. #13
    Resident Old Fart Olebiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantomcow2
    Basically this:
    snip

    Except mine will be nicer
    Post a picture when it's done. I could just see my Hitachi 3 1/4 hp router mounted on that.
    Wag more, bark less

  14. #14
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Pictures indeed. I expect about one month...
    Its the electronics i hate .

    3 1/2HP...not sure it can take that. Im building this with mostly aluminum and extrusion to be specific. I plan for it to be ridgid, but i was planning on maybe 1HP.
    Yes i'm a wimp
    C://dos
    C://dos.run
    run.dos.run

  15. #15
    My Alphabit's say "Oooo" InfamousG's Avatar
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    Ok, makes a whole lot more sense now on why you wanted to have the holes. At first I thought you were planning to use the holes as some king of guidance system for it. Then I couldn't figure out why you needed them tapped.

    I just got all confused and my thought train derailed.

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