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  1. #1
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Removal of old red loctite

    Okay well i got these actuators and the ballscrews have a collar on the end with 2 set screws, which have loctite on there as well. Everything else in this actuator has been with red loctite, so i dont expect this to be any different. I've bent my allen keys trying to get these set screws out!

    Is heat probably the best solution to loosen up the loctite? I suspect this is about 3-4 years old.
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  2. #2
    '05 NUEser EJ123's Avatar
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    I have n0o idea what you just said .

  3. #3
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    loctite is a thread locker
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  4. #4
    Phat but not too fat 62vette's Avatar
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    Acetone will generally deal to loctite. Squirt a bit on and leave it for a while.

  5. #5
    close to 2000 madbiker555's Avatar
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    Heat it with a blow torch.

  6. #6
    NoPo nateted4's Avatar
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    Try the acetone solution before the heat, but the loctite web site says that red and green will need to be heated to be removed, while blue should come off with hand tools.
    I can't believe they thought they would need the holding power of red.
    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/quest...rme=125#cat125

  7. #7
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    For red you need heat. You don't need to get it red hot, just a little to hot to touch. If the metal has a little oil on it, it will start to smoke when you have it hot enough.
    For really small screws it is a good idea to use heat even if the loctite is blue.
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  8. #8
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    FOr what this actuator saw, i am very happy they used loctite. BUt it sure makes it a pain for me!
    I will try acetone, i like that idea.
    If that does not work, then its heat. And this is a small set screw, takes a 7/64 hex.
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  9. #9
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    ugh! Every single threaded component on these actuators has red loctite! Including a 1"-13TPI screw. BUT, with enough force, the loctite broke.
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  10. #10
    ♋ ☮♂ ☭ ☯ -=(8)=-'s Avatar
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    When I fell on my Harley I snapped off a shift peg so
    a mechanic had to heat the red-lockt stubb with a torch to get it
    to back out !
    -ADVOCACY-☜ Radical VC = Car people on bikes. Just say "NO"

  11. #11
    Mostly Harmless Dead Extra #2's Avatar
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    For small set screws you can use a small-tipped soldering iron to deliver the heat.
    --
    If your relationship still works, you could be training harder.

  12. #12
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    a small soldering iron, i've got one of those. Will try that tommorow
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  13. #13
    2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM slvoid's Avatar
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    You can also ground the block that the screw is in, then just touch the tip of your TIG welder to the screw, that should get it pretty hot without resorting to the use of a flame.

  14. #14
    Phat but not too fat 62vette's Avatar
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    yeah, it's handy that we all have a TIG welder in the garage

  15. #15
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    I would really prefer not to grind the block. I want to keep this screw as it is right now, I just need to get it out because i have to buy more of the timing belts that are in there and i cant tell how many teeth there are because the whole assembly is enclosed. ALl i could tell is that its an XL pitch
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  16. #16
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    But i will be using the tig welder or something of the like to anneal the hardening at the end of the screw, thankyou for reminding me.
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  17. #17
    Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP) Stacey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by -=£em in Pa=-
    When I fell on my Harley I snapped off a shift peg so
    a mechanic had to heat the red-lockt stubb with a torch to get it
    to back out !
    Still gotta glue Harleys together?

    Fancy that.

  18. #18
    Recovering Retro-grouch CRUM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantomcow2
    I would really prefer not to grind the block. I want to keep this screw as it is right now, I just need to get it out because i have to buy more of the timing belts that are in there and i cant tell how many teeth there are because the whole assembly is enclosed. ALl i could tell is that its an XL pitch
    He did not mean to grind the block, but ground it electrically.
    Keep it 'tween the ditches

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  19. #19
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    . Acetone did not work.
    I put a hefty amount on, and let it settle for 2 hours. THen put more on, settle for 2. Then tried. Looks like tommorow is the day where i apply some heat
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  20. #20
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    A propane torch got one out! The other i believe was corroded in, so i milled it out
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  21. #21
    2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM slvoid's Avatar
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    Damn.. I was hoping you'd post again saying, "Oh s**t! I welded the screw in place"...

  22. #22
    Banned. sngltrackdufus's Avatar
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    Pending what it is ,sometimes you can use a drift punch & give a swift bop with a hammer & it will come loose or place an appropriate driver in fastener hole & bop it.

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